monouchi wrote:Im going to order one later too, low on cash right now.
Just a thought I had.
Is the speakers in a EGRET II in serie or paralell? (Anyone?)
It says on your page that the speakers must have an impedance of 8 Ohm or higher.
EGRET II speakers are 4 Ohm.
Couldn't you put a 4ohm resistor in series with the connections to the speakers in that case?
I've finally bought a SNES cable to plug my SNES in my cab with Viletim's board and it looks like i've got the wrong cable. I have a US SNES and a Gamecube RGB cable (which is the one to get for NTSC SNES from what I've read) but I can't get it to work properly. I've played a bit of Donkey Kong Country and the picture is great but sometimes the screen freak out, like when there is a white screen from an explosion for exemple (title screen). Any of you guys succesfully installed his SNES in a cab ? Which RGB cable is the best ? I have a tri-sync true flat Sanwa PFX.
You need a special SCART cable for the US SNES. I can't remember exactly but there is a difference between the EU and USA SNES systems when it comes to RGB.
neorichieb1971 wrote:You need a special SCART cable for the US SNES. I can't remember exactly but there is a difference between the EU and USA SNES systems when it comes to RGB.
Yeah I know about the difference, this is why I've bought the cable I have, it was supposed to work with NTSC SNES and it shouldn't work on a PAL SNES but yeah, it doesn't work anyways. I have removed the capitators, it was even worst. I put the RGB capitator back but not the sync one and it's better but not really playable. There's only a bunch of wire connected though, it looks like there's a lot of missing wire in the cable himself. It's this one: http://cgi.ebay.com/GAMECUBE-SNES-N64-R ... 2c53166016 (I needed those RCA connector for the stereo sound). Anyways, I'll go ahead and buy another one, thanks for the link
I've finally bought a SNES cable to plug my SNES in my cab with Viletim's board and it looks like i've got the wrong cable. I have a US SNES and a Gamecube RGB cable (which is the one to get for NTSC SNES from what I've read) but I can't get it to work properly. I've played a bit of Donkey Kong Country and the picture is great but sometimes the screen freak out, like when there is a white screen from an explosion for exemple (title screen). Any of you guys succesfully installed his SNES in a cab ? Which RGB cable is the best ? I have a tri-sync true flat Sanwa PFX.
there are some differences between the specifications for an NTSC SNES SCART cable and a Gamecube one. Notably the RC circuit on the composite video line, which seems to be your problem. http://members.optusnet.com.au/eviltim/ ... m#gamecube
You might try opening the SCART end and seeing what's in there. I got one from play-asia that works with my US SNES, but I haven't tried it with my JAMMA adapter yet.
Thank you Antron ! It looks like I just need to connect 5v to pin 8 since I removed the capitator from the sync line already. I'll give it a try tomorrow Thanks again !
Alien Soldier wrote:Thank you Antron ! It looks like I just need to connect 5v to pin 8 since I removed the capitator from the sync line already. I'll give it a try tomorrow Thanks again !
I doubt the JAMMA adapter needs that. Was there a resistor going to ground from c-video?
The gamecube RGB cable is nothing like the SNES one. I doubt even the RGB lines are correct let alone anything else.
For a start the Gamecube released in the PAL markets had the RGB lines where the svideo ones were on NTSC machines. The NTSC market didn't support RGB at all but makeshift versions were used using the digital output of the older gamecube NTSC models.
If your RGB cable is meant for the Gamecube in any fashion whatsoever its not going to work with your SNES.
Get a SNES cable like I linked to above.
This industry has become 2 dimensional as it transcended into a 3D world.
Gamecube RGB only supported by PAL Gamecube consoles (not for JAP/USA machines)
Please note the following:
Game Cube compability: Only supported by PAL Game Cube machines, the lead cannot be used for NTSC (American or Japanese) Game Cubes as well as not for the Panasonic Q.
Nintendo64: The N64 console requires modification before this cable can be used, scroll down to our links for details.
the only information p-a is missing is that the cable probably will not work with a PAL SNES.
richie, no one in this thread said anything about the existance of an NTSC Gamecube RGB cable, or about using any RGB cable with an NTSC Gamecube.
Alien Soldier wrote:Thank you Antron ! It looks like I just need to connect 5v to pin 8 since I removed the capitator from the sync line already. I'll give it a try tomorrow Thanks again !
I doubt the JAMMA adapter needs that. Was there a resistor going to ground from c-video?
No, I'll try this out as soon a I get a resitor. I've modified the scart plug to look like the pic but I still have trouble with the sync so it must be that missing resistor.
Gamecube RGB only supported by PAL Gamecube consoles (not for JAP/USA machines)
Please note the following:
Game Cube compability: Only supported by PAL Game Cube machines, the lead cannot be used for NTSC (American or Japanese) Game Cubes as well as not for the Panasonic Q.
Nintendo64: The N64 console requires modification before this cable can be used, scroll down to our links for details.
the only information p-a is missing is that the cable probably will not work with a PAL SNES.
richie, no one in this thread said anything about the existance of an NTSC Gamecube RGB cable, or about using any RGB cable with an NTSC Gamecube.
Alien Soldier wrote:Thank you Antron ! It looks like I just need to connect 5v to pin 8 since I removed the capitator from the sync line already. I'll give it a try tomorrow Thanks again !
I doubt the JAMMA adapter needs that. Was there a resistor going to ground from c-video?
No, I'll try this out as soon a I get a resitor. I've modified the scart plug to look like the pic but I still have trouble with the sync so it must be that missing resistor.
because you are connecting a US SNES, you should not need the resistor. That is if eviltim's (viletime?) webpage is correct. I seem to recall that this information came from some unpublished Nintendo technical specs, as this was never an official option in North America (or Japan!? wtf?).
I opted for two controller boards and it arrived like pictured. (leftmost being the main video/audio adapter, middle the default controls hookup board(green screw connectors) and the far right the JAMMA fingerboard passthrough board)
I added a part breakdown/description to my picture, as it seems to be a source of confusion).
Last edited by emphatic on Wed Jan 26, 2011 8:17 am, edited 2 times in total.
I've finally bought a SNES cable to plug my SNES in my cab with Viletim's board and it looks like i've got the wrong cable. I have a US SNES and a Gamecube RGB cable (which is the one to get for NTSC SNES from what I've read) but I can't get it to work properly. I've played a bit of Donkey Kong Country and the picture is great but sometimes the screen freak out, like when there is a white screen from an explosion for exemple (title screen). Any of you guys succesfully installed his SNES in a cab ? Which RGB cable is the best ? I have a tri-sync true flat Sanwa PFX.
AS,
from the manual:
75 on, TTL off = Terminated composite video. Default.
75 off, TTL off = Unterminated composite video. Try this if you have any sync related problems.
75 off, TTL on = TTL composite sync or TTL horizontal sync.
try the second configuration, Jumpers labled 75 off, TTL off
I've finally bought a SNES cable to plug my SNES in my cab with Viletim's board and it looks like i've got the wrong cable. I have a US SNES and a Gamecube RGB cable (which is the one to get for NTSC SNES from what I've read) but I can't get it to work properly. I've played a bit of Donkey Kong Country and the picture is great but sometimes the screen freak out, like when there is a white screen from an explosion for exemple (title screen). Any of you guys succesfully installed his SNES in a cab ? Which RGB cable is the best ? I have a tri-sync true flat Sanwa PFX.
AS,
from the manual:
75 on, TTL off = Terminated composite video. Default.
75 off, TTL off = Unterminated composite video. Try this if you have any sync related problems.
75 off, TTL on = TTL composite sync or TTL horizontal sync.
try the second configuration, Jumpers labled 75 off, TTL off
You just solved my problem sir, thank you very much ! I've removed the jumper and everything is perfect now
Next step is to get this cable working with my Mitsubishi AM-2752A RGB monitor but this doesn't fit in the thread.
just received the adapter and it looks great, but I'm having some problems with it.
I get no picture at all on my Egret II, the monitor is just black, the sound works though..
I have tried to adjust the contrast, but no luck.
I have tried hooking up both my Xbox360 (asian) and my PS2 (pal) to the Egret II but with the same result.
the Xbox360 and PS2 works with scart on and old crt tv.
Is the adapter broken or what?
lowemark wrote:just received the adapter and it looks great, but I'm having some problems with it.
I get no picture at all on my Egret II, the monitor is just black, the sound works though..
I have tried to adjust the contrast, but no luck.
I have tried hooking up both my Xbox360 (asian) and my PS2 (pal) to the Egret II but with the same result.
the Xbox360 and PS2 works with scart on and old crt tv.
Is the adapter broken or what?
probably not. it just doesn't draw enough power to get your power supply motivated. did the adapter come with a little white block you could install like this:
if so then try that. it will get hot.
antron wrote:probably not. it just doesn't draw enough power to get your power supply motivated. did the adapter come with a little white block you could install like this:
if so then try that. it will get hot.
I've tried that, but still have the same problem, screen is just black.
antron wrote:just to clarify, you turned the little blue brightness adjuster with a small screwdriver?
What? Another brightness pot?! Not that I need it, but good to know. Btw, I used my adapter on the exact same setup as lowemark, so it's really weird that his monitor would need more brightness. But perhaps we have different SCREEN/G2 pot settings on the monitor chassis or something like that.