XRGB-3

[Fudoh]

Very weird indeed. On all the XRGB-3 units I've seen on which the RGB input was somehow blown, component input didn't work either, so it doesn't sound like a hardware issue on your machine. I'd probably just try downgrading the FW to some earlier version.

[Konsolkongen]

I did

Right now i'm using a multimeter to check for connections on the MB. There are several components i can't get a reading through. Might be my shitty multimeter, and maybe i'm not supposed to get a reading. I'm not really into the complicated stuff.

Will take some pictures and post in a few minutes along with a list of the components i can't get a reading from.

[Konsolkongen]

Here is a list of the things i can't get a reading from:

Resistors:

R176
R178

C? (capacitors?):

C63
C84
C85
C87
C88
C89
C90
C91
C92
C93

I'm not sure what the "C's" are but here is a picture of one:


There is no value written on any of the C's :/

Here is a larger picture with arrows showing the things on the list:
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e236/ ... 1285273790

EDIT: Fudoh i only tried component through the D inputs not the GAME IN.

[ZOM]

The Cxx are SMD caps, but don't ask me how to find out their values...

[RGB32E]

The Cxx are SMD caps, but don't ask me how to find out their values...

Measure with a multimeter that has a capacitance mode!!!

http://www.amazon.com/Mastech-Multimete ... B000FLZDPG

(I need to get a multimeter with this feature!)

[Konsolkongen]

I might need to get me one of those So i'm not necessarily supposed to get any readings on these when my multimeter is set to Ohm? Some of them i did get a reading from.

S-video doesn't work either... I have an idea that my shitty old stepdown converter (220V > 110V) is to blame. My Saturn is also connected to the stepdown and i got shocked from the Saturns S-video cable when trying to connect it to the XRGB-3 (Saturn was off). Don't worry it didn't hurt and i don't have a pacemaker, everything inside me seems to work fine.

I'm very sure that at least the Model 2 EU Saturn doesn't consume any power when the Power button is off. If it's the same for Model 1 then i shouldn't have been shocked right?

So maybe, just maybe the XRGB-3 is not getting enough power to fully work? I don't know if thats a long shot or not. But the fuse on the MB is still intact so i don't think i ever received an overload of power from the stepdown so perhaps nothing has broken.

I dont know... The XRGB-3 might be dead but the stepdown does seem like the most logical problem. Luckily the Gefen and Saturn also connected to the stepdown works fine.

I'm replacing the stepdown just in case, been meaning to do it for years...

[MKL]

I might need to get me one of those So i'm not necessarily supposed to get any readings on these when my multimeter is set to Ohm? Some of them i did get a reading from.

Of course you did, the caps are in circuit and thus connected to other components. You're measuring resistance across these components, not across the caps. You would need to remove them from the circuit and measure them with a multimeter that can do capacitance measurements, not resistance.

[Sargon]

I have been reading through all the available information on the XRGB-3 and XRGB-2+ and haven't been able to determine which one best fits my needs. I plan to use the XRGB only for 240p input sources (NES and Atari Jaguar) and I want minimal frame delay, which means I'm looking at running in B1 mode. Assuming that specific use case, does the XRGB-3 offer me anything that the XRGB-2+ doesn't?

[Konsolkongen]

Of course you did, the caps are in circuit and thus connected to other components. You're measuring resistance across these components, not across the caps. You would need to remove them from the circuit and measure them with a multimeter that can do capacitance measurements, not resistance.

As i said i don't know much about the complicated stuff Anyway that's a good thing right? Maybe nothing has fried then.

[RGB32E]

As i said i don't know much about the complicated stuff Anyway that's a good thing right? Maybe nothing has fried then.

Why didn't you get a high quality full range 10VDC power supply??? Why are you using a step down (no, not the literal why)???

[Konsolkongen]

Because it's easier. I have my Gefen and Saturn which also needs 110V. Also the XRGB-3 takes 11V

[Pocket_Man]

my xrgb3 wont update at all, i tried 3 pc´s and one mac.
but the update tool doesent find the xrgb.
so i think im gonna buy a new one.

[kamiboy]

I have been reading through all the available information on the XRGB-3 and XRGB-2+ and haven't been able to determine which one best fits my needs. I plan to use the XRGB only for 240p input sources (NES and Atari Jaguar) and I want minimal frame delay, which means I'm looking at running in B1 mode. Assuming that specific use case, does the XRGB-3 offer me anything that the XRGB-2+ doesn't?

Read a few pages back, I asked for a similar advice there. I ended up with going with the XRGB-2 Plus because I only want XRGB for the scanlines and have no need for B0 mode. Also XRGB-2+ can be had for 100-200 less than a XRGB-3.

For just NES and jaguar or just 240p sources alone you could even go with the plain old XRGB-2, there is one going for 150 shipped right now in the sales thread.

[Konsolkongen]

A new stepdown converter didn't change anything but still it's nice to have the old shitty one replaced. Is there a way to contact Micomsoft in english? I would love to get their opinion on this. I'm aware that there is no warranty on my XRGB-3 since i resoldered the GAME IN port. But that's definitely not the problem here.

[RGB32E]

I have been reading through all the available information on the XRGB-3 and XRGB-2+ and haven't been able to determine which one best fits my needs. I plan to use the XRGB only for 240p input sources (NES and Atari Jaguar) and I want minimal frame delay, which means I'm looking at running in B1 mode. Assuming that specific use case, does the XRGB-3 offer me anything that the XRGB-2+ doesn't?

B0 input lag is minimized if you output your panels native resolution. For me, I really enjoy B0 mode at 1080p. This way the TV doesn't have to scale anything (amortize the lag)!


If this doesn't entice you... perhaps the XRGB-3 isn't for you!


The XRGB-3 works well with the Jaguar's RGB output... I'll have to hook that up soon...

[RGB32E]

A new stepdown converter didn't change anything but still it's nice to have the old shitty one replaced. Is there a way to contact Micomsoft in english? I would love to get their opinion on this. I'm aware that there is no warranty on my XRGB-3 since i resoldered the GAME IN port. But that's definitely not the problem here.

Uhh.... you could send them an email:

micom_support@micomsoft.co.jp

They've got to have someone there who can communicate in English!

[Konsolkongen]

I was referring to akumajo's english speaking contact But yeah it couldn't hurt sending an email to that address either

EDIT: Email sent lets hope they can give me some advice Otherwise it's gonna be a couple of tough months not playing the Saturn till i can get a new XRGB-3

RGB32E that Metroid shot looks very nice. Very hard to notice any difference in pixel hight and width. However Samus is supposed to yellow i believe, your colors are FU

[Sargon]

I have one more question that I couldn't find answered anywhere... Does the XRGB-3 DVI output pass audio or is audio only available through the line out? If the DVI doesn't pass audio, can anyone recommend a DVI-to-HDMI device that also adds audio from line out so that the end result is HDMI that carries both audio and video?

[Konsolkongen]

DVI is video only, so is VGA. The only way to get sound is from the line out on the back or the headphone jack on the front.

[Fudoh]

From my knowledge Micomsoft has done XRGB-3 repairs in the past, even if the units have been out of warranty. Of course there's always the forwarding to and from Japan, but there're solutions to that either.

@Sargon: Most TVs have an assignable analogue audio input for HDMI signals from DVI sources, yours doesn't ??

[Konsolkongen]

But i have soldered in mine I doubt they will even give it a look

Anyway we'll know when they reply to my email Living without Saturn and MegaDrive for a few months will be very hard. Luckily there are things like the Dreamcast, Bayonetta, Valkyria Chronicles II and Fallout NW to keep me occupied

I know of a guy here in Denmark who has a XRGB-2+ he has never used. I have offered to buy that from him so lets hope he's wants to sell it. I will have to get another 3 again of course but this will do just fine for a while and hopefully also work with Neo Geo and Master System.

[Sargon]

@Sargon: Most TVs have an assignable analogue audio input for HDMI signals from DVI sources, yours doesn't ??

Unfortunately not. I only have an HDMI input and a corresponding Digital optical input.

[Fudoh]

Then use a analog audio to SPDIF converter (around 30 EUR). Still cheaper and much more reliable than a DVI+Audio to HDMI converter.

Something like this: http://cgi.ebay.de/220673162961

[Konsolkongen]

I got a very polite email from a Micomsoft employee today. He suspects two capacitors in the AC Adaptor to be faulty and explained how i could exchange them with new ones.

I will take some pictures in case anyone will ever need to do the same.

I hope this fixes my problem

[RGB32E]

RGB32E that Metroid shot looks very nice. Very hard to notice any difference in pixel hight and width. However Samus is supposed to yellow i believe, your colors are FU

Ahh funny... Thanks for the back handed complements! I guess FU stands for f'ing über!!!

I'll try again with Dot_by_Dot set to オン!

Sounds like playing through Super Metroid has been quite the difficult chore!

I'll take another pixel shot in the near future... with vibration reduction set to off, white balance set to daylight (instead of auto), and earlier in the game! The cool thing about SM is that the palette entries for Samus vary from room to room (not every room, but there are many different sets of rooms that color her characters differently... and the XRGB-3 allows you to make the distinction!

[RGB32E]

DVI is video only, so is VGA. The only way to get sound is from the line out on the back or the headphone jack on the front.

The only exception I've found is that with newer graphics cards that a DVI connector can be used as a HDMI connector (physical SPDIF input on nVidia cards, and software for ATI/AMD)... but that isn't the case for the XRGB-3.

[Konsolkongen]

Ahh funny... Thanks for the back handed complements! I guess FU stands for f'ing über!!!

I'll try again with Dot_by_Dot set to オン!

No actually i was serious about the pixel mapping. It's very hard to spot the differences

[Kiel]

However Samus is supposed to yellow i believe, your colors are FU

Not when she is wearing the gravity suit...colors are perfectly fine, the gravity suit is that color.

[Konsolkongen]

You are right

Anyway changing the capacitors in the AC adapter didn't help. Just for fun here is a picture showing the replaced caps:

[kamiboy]

Well, after much ado and great expectations my XRGB-2 Plus arrived in the post today. And the results, after much praise and titillation, a big fat hairy stinky disappointment.

I thought I'd start things off with a bang by throwing my SNES and a copy of Mega Man X at the nefarious contraption, only to discover in the shortest time possible that I was getting no picture. After much fiddling around with the blasted thing, and several repeat of the reset procedure I came to the conclusion that my LCD television somehow does not like the VGA signal being put out by the XRGB, even though it is supposed to be the most standard of standard VESA 640x480@60hz.

To confirm this I hauled out the big ass 22" CRT monitor I had saved out of the large batch being scheduled for the recycle chamber of my workplace and hooked it up. But then the disappointment grew once more. The analogue circuitry of that rounded monstrosity was having a merry old tumble with whatever the SNES was putting out, and it was not a sight for the weary. The intermittently interrupting picture was being blasted out of the CRT monitor with all the clarity of scrambled porn. Garbled and more confusing than equal weight entertaining.

After fiddling with all the settings I gave up the SNES as a lost cause and with hands shaking with desperation I dug out my newly acquired SEGA CDX system, which I connected up, like the SNES before it, with Euro SCART RGB cables procured from eBay which were in turn plugged into a Euro SCART to RGB21 converter cable secured from the same place.

Here an improvement, what was before a scrambled garbled horror had transformed into the by comparison beautiful hideous moth that resembled a Genesis displaying Shining Force via a cheap knock off RFU connector to a 1970 colour TV that had seen some abuse by a combination of careless movers and a rather long flight of twirling stairs, imagine the ones from the Resident Evil mansion, only twice as long and gnarly and you have the right idea.

Disregarding the picture quality defects that left not a straight line untwisted in faithful reproduction there was of course the matter of the colours. The closest adjective I can use to describe is, 'wrong', inverted at places almost. Playing around with the settings once more did little to remedy the horrible err of the colours save brightening up the image some and did absolutely nothing to straighten the funky waves of the straight lines.

Just to make sure that my childhood memories of playing this game though RFU on a cheap CRT television being much preferable to the garbage several hundred gold ducats in the making currently being fed to my eyes I whipped up an emulator and accompanying ROM to compare what my Mini was displaying via HDMI upon my LCD to what the actual hardware was producing upon the CRT monitor.

Nope, my childhood memories were left untarnished, the faithful all digital rendition that I saw on my LCD was what I actually had in my hopes of hopes, hoped I might actually get via the actual hardware after such decadent expenditure.

But nay, over 600 ducats worth of actual hardware paled in comparison to the simple free emulator and ROM I spent 5 minutes whipping out of the treasure trove of the internet.

Next in line, a SCPH-1001 model PSX via component cables that were fed into the SCART input via the handy component to SCART connector that came in the XRGB box. I knew that the PSX would only put out an RGB signal, but I figured since it prolly does it via the same connectors on the back as the PS2 does component I could, using this setup, connector and the RGB setting be in the clear, alas, once more garbled nary undisplayable signal.

My last vintage hand coming up bust I figured I'd give the fail proof test a go, using my PS3's component output, same cables, and the component setting to play a PS1 game. Huzza, one tiny victory, Symphony of the Night looked appropriately awesome on the CRT monitor.

Lastly I dug out one of my SEGA Saturns and threw that one last lot in with the failed rest. This time everything worked like a charm, or it did almost. Using a Intec Memeory Card Plus adapter, which had long ago come into my possession by strange and mysterious circumstances when I purchased a most miraculous second hand Saturn, I thought to try my hand at Symphony of the Night once more, only this time giving the inferior Saturn port a whirl courtesy of a Japanese import.

Alas, once the memory management screen was promptly quitted the disc sat in the machine spinning, the access light flashing but naught but a black screen would meet me no matter the wait. Trying my other Saturn and same result.

After trying a PAL game as well I aborted the whole region freeing debacle and settled for a good old NTSC/U version of Panzer Dragoon, and this time the first and only resounding success via original hardware. The game looked both amazing as well as put to death my suspicions that perhaps there was something astray with the Euro Scart to RGB21 converter, for it certainly worked without a hitch for the Saturn.

To my surprise a test brought on by curiosity revealed the produce of S-Video cables to be indistinguishable from RGB Scart for the Saturn. This filled me with regret over having recently ditched my SNES S-Video cables. Alas I still had plain old composite ones lying around and via these the SNES produced a stunning and very acceptable image.

In fact when I threw on MMX on a emulator to do a side by side comparison between my impotent LCD TV showing an all digital reproduction and the SNES doing an vintage analogue rendition I preferred what the CRT was showing. Thus, barring any quirks of the RGB signal being put out by the SNES, I suspect the cheapo SNES Scart cables I had got from eBay were the culprit of my previous failure.

I guess I'll have to pony up 60 more ducats for those mythical Nintendo branded RGB21 SNES cables. But the result from the CDX puzzles me, those cables were custom made ones being sold by a reputable person on eBay, if fact by the same UK guy who made the the SCART to RGB21 connector. I did not have any composite cables to test out the CDX, so is the fault with the cable or is the CDX's RGB output just plain old vanilla sheit?

The PSX failure puzzles me as well, but perhaps my assumption of component and RGB out being via the same connector is wrong?

And why the hell was my Memory Card Plus failing to do its multiregion magic? Is there some sort of trick to it, I haven't used it in over 10 years, does anyone have one or know how it is supposed to work? It seems to work fine for memory managment purposes, but its supposed secondary function seems to be a bust.

And lastly, is my only option of getting the damn vanilla VGA signal onto my LCD screen to add yet another device in the horrible chain of doom going from the consoles to my television? I heard that the XRGB-2 could do a 800x600 output, can the Plus do that as well? changing the resolution might do the trick. Alas getting a XRGB-3 will not solve anything as I only want the damn thing for scanlines, otherwise I was fine with using S-video. Or if worse come to worse use a cheap SCART to HDMI converter.

Any help from the experts would be much appreciated because at this point I think I would have been much better off just sticking to simple S-video inputs into my LCD before I got my eye on the whole XRGB and scanlines dire straits.