Just found this CRT in a skip!

[Skykid]

Just walking home and did a double take when I saw this Bang & Olufsen CRT in a skip. Took one look at the two scart sockets on the back and decided I was having it.
A little research says it's supposed to have amazing image/sound quality (it's Bang & Olufsen so I'd expect no less) and supports 60hz!
It's a flat tube CRT too, so the depth is actually really slim for a CRT.

I'm hoping this is the answer to all my prayers as I've just been trying to figure out how to get my hands on a decent CRT for my JP 360 - problem is I have to see if it works!

Basically the power supply is clipped (see pics) so I just wanted to ask if anyone can confirm that it's safe to just wire up any standard PAL plug? I know this is probably elementary stuff, but I'm not so tech skilled so I just wanted to be sure. I can cut and join a plug onto the end with a bit of solder and wrap it with electrical tape (that's the plan anyway.) If anyone could offer any advice that would be appreciated.

Here are some pics (it's still needs a bit of a wipe down, just got it home!)

[Ex-Cyber]

"Safe" is always a relative term when working with mains voltage. Ideally you should replace the entire cord (i.e. desolder the stub inside the unit and solder on a brand new cord), but that process carries its own risks (that label isn't kidding when it says "dangerous voltage inside"), I don't know of any immediate safety issues with your approach, but it probably carries an increased risk of the cord shorting out, particularly if the cord is yanked or otherwise abused (e.g. sharp points on the solder joint could wear through the tape).

edit: looking at the pic again, I doubt that you have enough wire sticking out to make a secure splice.

[Skykid]

"Safe" is always a relative term when working with mains voltage. Ideally you should replace the entire cord (i.e. desolder the stub inside the unit and solder on a brand new cord), but that process carries its own risks (that warning label isn't kidding when it says "dangerous voltage inside"), I don't know of any immediate safety issues with your approach, but it probably carries an increased risk of the cord shorting out, particularly if the cord is yanked or otherwise abused (e.g. sharp points on the solder joint could wear through the tape).

Hmm. Well I'm not up for taking risks at all, but I'm totally not qualified to open the set and replace the entire cord from the stub. I've done a wiring solder before with my Egret 2 (it had no earth when I got it so I put a new lead on in the fashion stated above and it's been fine. Plenty of slack on the cable though.)

I'd really like to see if the damn thing works tbh.

[njiska]

I agree that desoldering the connector inside is the best route, but if you don't feel comfortable with that then you should be easily able to repair the cable. Just make sure when you solder the new cable on you take polarity into account. I would recommend using heat shirk insulation over each wire soldered wire individually and then again over the whole piece just for extra durability.

Worst case you may just want to see if you have any mates who do things like this for a hobby.

[Skykid]

I agree that desoldering the connector inside is the best route, but if you don't feel comfortable with that then you should be easily able to repair the cable. Just make sure when you solder the new cable on you take polarity into account. I would recommend using heat shirk insulation over each wire soldered wire individually and then again over the whole piece just for extra durability.

Worst case you may just want to see if you have any mates who do things like this for a hobby.

There are some, but none nearby unfortunately. There's a bloke not far away who could probably sort it out, but I don't drive and carrying this home was a killer.

It's going for £350 here: http://www.iconic-av.co.uk/item_view.php?itemid=604

Would be nice to see if it works.

Would anyone think there would be any problem in a very temporary plug wire up just to see if it comes on, and then I'd disconnect and wait for someone to do a proper plug fitting on it?

[brentsg]

If it explodes when you plug it in, can I have your stuff?

[kernow]

You can get male IEC connectors that would probably fit on that little stub, then just use a kettle lead or whatever.

http://www.russandrews.com/product.asp? ... CVMLUDKNLB

Something like that, but uh, from a cheaper source.

But yeah its better to replace the mains lead really as its really short, pop the back open and see how its attached.

[thegreathopper]

Just strip the ends and put on a connector, Power it up if it works keep it and replace the lead. If not chuck it. If you are scared use an RCD plug on your test lead.

[Skykid]

You can get male IEC connectors that would probably fit on that little stub, then just use a kettle lead or whatever.

http://www.russandrews.com/product.asp? ... CVMLUDKNLB

Something like that, but uh, from a cheaper source.

But yeah its better to replace the mains lead really as its really short, pop the back open and see how its attached.

Okay, thanks for the tips guys. I'm going to open it up and take a look and I'll take some pictures.

If it explodes when you plug it in, can I have your stuff?

Sure!

Just strip the ends and put on a connector, Power it up if it works keep it and replace the lead. If not chuck it. If you are scared use an RCD plug on your test lead.

I'm not too scared, it looks like they just tore down a shop and chucked it. It was probably wired into the walling so they snipped the lead.
I'll open it, take a look, and might just wire on a standard plug and give it a go, just to see if it comes on. If so, I'll disconnect it and find a way to fit a new wire from the source.

[Skykid]

Right, got the back off, but there looks like there's going to be a wee problem getting the lead replaced from the stub. The bit sticking out is actually in no way the end of the lead, and unfortunately it runs behind the bulk of the chassis and is practically impossible to get to, letalone see where it goes.





Looks like my options are pretty limited... I just remembered I have some block connectors knocking about too, if I'm going to wire a plug onto it would anyone suggest block connectors over solder (they're easier, but probably not too stable.)

Thanks folks!

[brokenhalo]

I would splice the cable inside the casing using barrel splices. They just crimp onto the stripped wire ends. I'm posting from work on my phone or I'd include a link and a picture, but you should be able to get a crimper and the connectors for about $10. For the cord just buy a short extension cord and cut the female end off.

[thegreathopper]

You have a good few inches in your picture so use inline crimps or a block connector, Makes no difference either will do the job.

[Skykid]

Okay, I basically didn't like the idea of trusting it to the block connector, so I stripped the wires and soldered each individually (not together obviously!) and then wrapped both individually several times until I was sure they were properly insulated, and then taped the whole thing up tight. It's a fairly neat job and... wallah



Unfortunately, the only controls are for power off and channel select, none of which go to the AV channels. Weirdly I can hear the snes very quietly through the speakers no matter which channel its on - but no image.

I'll find a compatible remote (tons on ebay) and hopefully I should have a dedicated CRT for gaming soon enough. Sweet, amazing what you find in the trash.

Thanks for the help folks.

[emphatic]

Nice catch!

[Skykid]

Nice catch!

Thanks Emph, I'm pretty happy about it. It's not all ended well until I've found a remote for it and have it all up and running, but things are looking good so far. I'm going to go and get some heat shrink insulation as njiska suggested and cover the soldered wires properly:

I would recommend using heat shirk insulation over each wire soldered wire individually and then again over the whole piece just for extra durability.

Might drop by the Bang & Olufsen store and see if they have a remote knocking about or can order one in.

[thegreathopper]

Excellent and you have my favorite game Yossy Island in the Snes.

[Skykid]

Excellent and you have my favorite game Yossy Island in the Snes.

Only three stages way from completion!

[thegreathopper]

Excellent and you have my favorite game Yossy Island in the Snes.

Only three stages way from completion!

I have a bit further to go than that but I love it, I would of thought there was a way of selecting the AV channels without the remote. Have you tried holding both buttons in?

[Skykid]

Excellent and you have my favorite game Yossy Island in the Snes.

Only three stages way from completion!

I have a bit further to go than that but I love it, I would of thought there was a way of selecting the AV channels without the remote. Have you tried holding both buttons in?

Yes, one is the power so it just shuts it off. I tried holding both on startup and then just the channel button, no joy though. I just downloaded a manual so I'll trawl through it, but it looks like I'll need a remote.

[antron]

sometimes channeling down into the negatives selects AV inputs.

[Skykid]

sometimes channeling down into the negatives selects AV inputs.

Yeah, first thing I tried, but it just loops back to the highest channel after 1.

[D]

Good luck
Check for a universal remote (check if compatible with B&O)
B&O is an expensive brand and should have great pq.

[Khan]

nice one, although ive dont have the space for a CRT set in my room I do miss the picture quality they give my pcbs

[Skykid]

nice one, although ive dont have the space for a CRT set in my room I do miss the picture quality they give my pcbs

Me too, that's why I got rid of my old 28" Trinitron. This one has a flat tube though, and the back is relatively tiny by CRT standards, so it'll fit fine in the bedroom. The small back is what caught my eye as I was walking by too. Apparently the MX4000 is the smallest Beovision unit Bang & Olufsen did in the range:

http://www.beoworld.org/prod_details.asp?pid=635

[gray117]

I have found several mentions via google to a decoder for av input:

http://www.iconic-av.co.uk/manuals/beov ... _guide.pdf

Pages 26+27


It probably will help you - seems to effect many people who try to hook up their sky tv in the uk [originally I thought decoder must apply to the sky tv box but no it applies to the tv set itself....]:

http://uk.answers.yahoo.com/question/in ... 427AAwvQ32


Hope this might help!


lol anyone in london interested in these tvs see here for 16 of them:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/16-Bang-Olufsen-B ... 4835wt_114

[Skykid]

Thanks gray, this is a curious thing - I'm not sure what 'decoder' does exactly.

Btw, I have a feeling you meant to post that in the hardware section, so we can continue this over there if that's cool.

[maxlords]

You should be able to get a remote from one of the online suppliers. There's plenty of remote control dealers out there...way cheaper than the manufacturer.

Also... what's a skip? UK term for dumpster?

[Skykid]

You should be able to get a remote from one of the online suppliers. There's plenty of remote control dealers out there...way cheaper than the manufacturer.

Also... what's a skip? UK term for dumpster?

Yep.

Any leads on MX4000 remotes then - I picked one up off of ebay but sent it back because I couldn't get all the functions to work. I'm beginning to wonder if that's the TV's fault or the remote though. Hmm...

[oli_lar]

What about a cheapo universal remote? You know the ones with the codes you put in to select the TV you are using it for. Not sure if they'll have B&O codes though.

Nice find though, amazing what people throw out. Even if B&O is style over substance

[Arasoi]

Excellent find, and perfect price.