I need to know information about this cab.

[Elixir]

Not much point in rotating it just yet as I don't have any boards that I can test it out with. I went to test the Wardner board, which seemed fine, except I couldn't press start on either side. Start still works fine for the F3 though.

Can someone please explain why it recognizes 1p start for the Taito F3, but not for a regular PCB?

[Elixir]

Decided to insert two credits while trying Wardner again, and it isn't recognizing the 2p side either. The board itself seems fine, it just isn't recognizing any controls unlike the Taito F3 stuff, which is fine. Does anyone know how to fix this? I don't have any other Jamma boards to test this with.

[emphatic]

Decided to insert two credits while trying Wardner again, and it isn't recognizing the 2p side either. The board itself seems fine, it just isn't recognizing any controls unlike the Taito F3 stuff, which is fine. Does anyone know how to fix this? I don't have any other Jamma boards to test this with.

I'm guessing there is some ground wire(s) missing from your JAMMA connector. Wardner perhaps doesn't use all ground positions.

[Elixir]

I see, thanks. I contacted the seller and he's offered me a free Jamma loom with everything named, so I'm looking forward to that. I'm hoping it won't be too much trouble though, internal wiring has always scared me to death. Honestly, aside from a bit of paint, dusting and replacing of parts, I'm happy with the way it is. Well, once I can securely get things working with regular Jamma stuff, that is. Paint will have to wait... I've been too busy with real life stuff to worry about it.

[emphatic]

I see, thanks. I contacted the seller and he's offered me a free Jamma loom with everything named, so I'm looking forward to that. I'm hoping it won't be too much trouble though, internal wiring has always scared me to death. Honestly, aside from a bit of paint, dusting and replacing of parts, I'm happy with the way it is. Well, once I can securely get things working with regular Jamma stuff, that is. Paint will have to wait... I've been too busy with real life stuff to worry about it.

You don't need to replace the whole loom if you don't feel like it. Just make sure that all of the ground wires on the connector is connected. If not the novice approach is to make sure that all ground is connected to each other instead.

The one's you need to look at are 1, 2, A, B (the four first ones at the top of the connector with your PCB to the right of the connector) , 27, 28, e, f (the four on the bottom)

So the four first and last ones only.

Another thing that could be a reason for Wardner not coining up is too low +5V power. But check for missing wires/pins first as it's easier if you're feeling like a noob.

[jonny5]

I see, thanks. I contacted the seller and he's offered me a free Jamma loom with everything named, so I'm looking forward to that. I'm hoping it won't be too much trouble though, internal wiring has always scared me to death. Honestly, aside from a bit of paint, dusting and replacing of parts, I'm happy with the way it is. Well, once I can securely get things working with regular Jamma stuff, that is. Paint will have to wait... I've been too busy with real life stuff to worry about it.

You don't need to replace the whole loom if you don't feel like it. Just make sure that all of the ground wires on the connector is connected. If not the novice approach is to make sure that all ground is connected to each other instead.

The one's you need to look at are 1, 2, A, B (the four first ones at the top of the connector with your PCB to the right of the connector) , 27, 28, e, f (the four on the bottom)

So the four first and last ones only.

Another thing that could be a reason for Wardner not coining up is too low +5V power. But check for missing wires/pins first as it's easier if you're feeling like a noob.

is he even sure wardner is working?

did pb4 coin up?

[Elixir]

Yep, PB4 works fine.



Here's a pic connected to Wardner. I'd rather not replace the entire loom if possible, so please tell me what I'm supposed to do here. I'm guessing the 8th and 9th are related to 1p and 2p start.

[jonny5]

Yep, PB4 works fine.



Here's a pic connected to Wardner. I'd rather not replace the entire loom if possible, so please tell me what I'm supposed to do here. I'm guessing the 8th and 9th are related to 1p and 2p start.

get it off the fucking carpet dude

http://www.jammaboards.com/jcenter_jamma_pinout.html

player 1 and 2 start are 17 and u respectively

maybe try just bridging the coin to ground see if it coins up....at least then you can confirm its not the board thats messed up

just take a wire and touch it to the player 1 coin(16) and touch the other end to the jamma ground(a,1,b,2,e,27,f,28) on the jamma header of the pcb while its running

if it coins up you know its an issue with the harness, if not, its the game

[Elixir]

Um, it coins up via the service switch just fine, it's 1p and 2p start that don't do anything.

[Elixir]

Found the problem - faulty wiring. Everything's wired correctly, but moving the gray wire (1p start) made it actually run. I also noticed that pressing all 3 buttons on the 2p side made actions on the 1p side. 2p start doesn't work with PB4 at all. I think I understand the whole Jamma pinout thing now, thankfully. I'm just a little worried about what's on the other ends.

Looks like I need that Jamma loom after all. I'm glad it's not the board.

[cools]

Try repairing the loom before replacing it. The Japanese cabs do things with their wiring and connectors that make swapping it out with a bog standard JAMMA harness "interesting". Since it's all just continuity, strip it out and spend some time going over it with a meter.

[Elixir]

Okay, I had someone come and inspect the cab. Apparently the 2p button needed to be earthed, or whatever, so that's done, but the microswitch is still busted. I have a pair of LS-32s on their way, replacing them shouldn't be a problem as the wires aren't soldered and are insulated. However, the buttons aren't insulated and are soldered. I ordered 6 Seimitsu skeleton buttons to replace mine with, but I need to know what kind of insulation I'm going to need, along with pins. I'm looking here:

http://www.akihabarashop.jp/index.php?c ... b36c04ffcd

I'm thinking what I'm in need of are the male 2p-connectors, along with the male pins. Can someone point me in the right direction here? Thanks guys.

[cools]

If you're buying from akihabarashop, you need to get the following part: AT-110, and I'd recommend SR-110 as well

[Elixir]

Sounds good. So that's all I need apart from the buttons? I'm not forgetting anything else?

[cools]

If you're just replacing the buttons and crimping new connectors on in place of where they're currently soldered, then those are all you need.

I'd personally recommend buying P-706 (the crimp tool) as well, but it's not essential.

[neorichieb1971]

Blimey you make my plug n play cabs feel like a bargain. I use quick disconnects on all my buttons. Crimping and soldering is too much hassle.

[neorichieb1971]

Something I just noticed.. I just installed bombjack twin in my cabinet and the jamma connector (female on the loom) is like the one pictured above. It seems to be the same way, that its 2mm too big to fit flush and has a diagonal slant on it. Thats what I hate about jamma, its a standard that isn't really a standard. Obviously bomback and wardner both have that edge of plastic sticking out causing this. I might file my connector down so it fits flush.

[cools]

Blimey you make my plug n play cabs feel like a bargain. I use quick disconnects on all my buttons. Crimping and soldering is too much hassle.

Er, that's what I've told Lix to do - fit correctly crimped QDs (and the plastic sheaths) to replace the soldered connections.

[Elixir]

I figure if I'm going to do this, I might as well do it right. Spending 150+ in parts wasn't planned though (I don't have a crimping tool).

[cools]

For those terminals you should be able to use any uninsulated terminal crimper you can buy locally. The Japanese one is excellent and has a wide range of crimp sizes suitable for JST/AMP stuff, but it is pretty pricey if you're just doing one quick job.

[emphatic]

I just use a flat pair of pliers instead. I've had no problems so far, knock on wood. Just know you don't want to use the tips of your fingers. Also, when buying those quick connects from Akihabarashop, make sure to notice that it's not single piece price, but you get a bag of them. I missed this last time and was scratching my head for a pretty long time wondering why it got so friggin' expensive.

[Elixir]

I just use a flat pair of pliers instead. I've had no problems so far, knock on wood. Just know you don't want to use the tips of your fingers. Also, when buying those quick connects from Akihabarashop, make sure to notice that it's not single piece price, but you get a bag of them. I missed this last time and was scratching my head for a pretty long time wondering why it got so friggin' expensive.

Yeah, I don't know what I'm going to do with 100 tiny plastic things. Maybe I can glue them to my arm and get a few days off work sick or something.

[emphatic]

Maybe I can glue them to my arm and get a few days off work sick or something.

Your employer - "Stung by Hibachi? Is that some rare killer bee?"

[Elixir]

OK, so we put the LS-32s in today. I think there's a problem though. I bought two different kinds of mounting plates off AkihabaraShop, one is way too big and one is just short of what I need. If I use the current ones, I don't think the height is correct, although it's usable.

Mounting plates that I boguht were the MS and SS. I don't know the name of the mounting plates that came in the cab, but it's a flat mounting plate which doesn't dip in, which is probably the reason for the height problem.

Edit: Ok, I need something which is 9.5cm x 6.5cm. The mounting plate SS is 9.1cm x 6.5cm, so it's just a bit too short. That's the only one that dips in and is even remotely close to what I need. Can I still use the SS somehow?

[cools]

Measure the distance between panel and ball? The flat plates (RE) are stock on the Mk3 and from what you've described the Mk2 mounts are the same. IIRC the distance should be 24mm

[Elixir]

Measure the distance between panel and ball? The flat plates (RE) are stock on the Mk3 and from what you've described the Mk2 mounts are the same. IIRC the distance should be 24mm

Not sure what you mean.. it's 1 1/2 centermeters from the panel to the bottom of the ball, or 2.8 cm from the panel to the top of the thread.

[cools]

Then yes that's far too short.

Is it the NA plate or plate 6 from http://arcadefever.blogspot.com/2007/11 ... lates.html that you need?

[Elixir]

Mounting plate NA is way too big. I need something around 95mm. What are the dimensions of the #6 plate?

[Elixir]

I take it you don't know, but if it turns out that I really do need plate 6, where could I possibly find one? I can't really do anything with these sticks until I've found something adequate to use the LS-32s with.

I wouldn't think the Mark II and Mark III would differ at all.

[cools]

The Mk III uses LS32s on RE (flat) plates stock. I don't know the dimensions of the 6th plate I'm afraid.