Tekken 6 Wireless Hori Stick

[tommyb]

This is my first stick, for the XB360, and I want to mod it, but I have heard that modding this stick is a nightmare, and very difficult. For a first timer, should I even bother, or should I just buy another, easier to mod, stick? Thanks!

[Damocles]

It's actually not too bad, assuming you have a dremel. In order to fit a JLF in there you must grind a bit of material off the base plate underneath the stick (for clearance).

The buttons are easy...at least compared to other, non-RAP, Hori sticks. There is a button PCB that must be de-soldered, but that can be thrown away as it does absolutely nothing. Each button hole has a tab that needs to be dremeled off before another can be stuck in. After that it's a matter of re-wiring and bending tabs.

If wireless isn't a necessity, I'd go for a RAP or Madcatz SF4 stick. Both are piss-easy swapouts. The standard SF4 stick is around the same price as the T6, even.

[tommyb]

Noted, thanks much!

[tommyb]

So, being new to modding, what kind of buttons and stick should I get? I mean, I know I want Sanwa, but is there different types of buttons and/or sticks?

[2dvertical]

I noticed that this tekken 6 bundle with stick is like 60 dollars now. I like the idea of wireless if it doesnt lag, but damn, seems so cheap. Is this thing made with super cheap hori components? I cant really find any reviews on it.

[emphatic]

I modded mine with a SANWA JLF octagonal guide. You have to drill 4 holes in the guide for the original HORI screws to hold it in place. I also changed the microswitches to those used in LS-32 and also switched out the spring.



More info on my mod here: http://www.emphatic.se/guwangestick.html

[2dvertical]

You have inspired me sir. Picked up the stick today. Do you know if the button holes would have to be drilled out for any type of quality buttons? What was the dpi for the artwork?, a big targa file or??

Im a huge guwange fan, good job!!


edit: i feel like a want to stick a weight inside it.

[emphatic]

You have inspired me sir. Picked up the stick today. Do you know if the button holes would have to be drilled out for any type of quality buttons? What was the dpi for the artwork?, a big targa file or??

Im a huge guwange fan, good job!!


edit: i feel like a want to stick a weight inside it.

Button holes has to be drilled out unfortunately. The HORI buttons are soldered to a PCB, so if they turn the solder would break. Therefore HORI added some pesky holder tab/stuff that needs to be removed for 30 mm buttons such as SANWA or Seimitsu. At first I tried to just switch out the button plunger and switch inside the HORI buttons (just keeping the rim) for a Seimitsu and that worked until I actually put the button in place. I guess there's something messing with the transport of the plunger (friction) so I just borrowed a Dremel tool and cut that bitch open.

If you looks closely at the picture I attached here you will see the schematic for the buttons (hey, at least they've used common ground) but if it's too hard to make out:

1-A (red)
2-B (white)
3-Left Trigger (blue)
4-X (black)
5-Start (yellow)
6-Back (orange)
7-Right Trigger (grey)
8-Y (brown)
9-Right Button (blue)
10-Left Button (black)
11-Ground (yellow)

Joystick (these however have one ground wire each):

1-Ground (yellow)
2-Right (yellow)
3-Ground (blue)
4-Down (blue)
5-Ground (white) <-- make sure you cut this pair of white wires as close to the microswitch as possible cause it is short to begin with.
6-Left (white)
7-Ground (red)
8-Up (red)


The group of wires to the left of the joystick wires:
(from right to left)
1-Vcc (3 volts)
2-?
3-?
4-?
5-Ground
(note: pins 2-5 go to a 4 pin header inside the battery compartment. I have no idea what its used for, maybe usb?)

The group of wires next to the previous group I didn't bother to figure out its pinout since its just the guide button, power for 4 leds, and ground. The brown wire is the guide signal.

The other 2 groups on the lower right part of the board is the sync button and the headphone/mic port.