When setting the B0 output mode to 1920x1080, the SNES is scaled uniformly to an image size of 1280x1120 (5x Scaling on 256x224), so when centering the image, I loose 20 pixels on the top and bottom of the screen. 
(1120-1080=40).WSXGA+ looks the same, so I wouldn't botherArgg!!! I still cannot coax my TV to accept the digital 1080p output from the XRGB-3!
both, first directly. To capture I have to run through a videoprocessor.@Fudoh, did you connect the XRGB-3 DIRECTLY to the TV, or through another device?
thanks !About DOT_BY_DOT - With this setting off, the aspect ratio is CORRECTED. With this setting on, the pixels are uniformly scaled...
Is this a picture of the XRGB-3 or the Radiance (XRGB assumed)?Fudoh wrote:A digital screenshot from the DVI output:
Well, the only resolutions via DVI I can display on my TV are 640x480, 1024x768, 1280x768, and 1360x768. I was able to get an image at 1680x1050, but it seemed unstable on my TV and haven't figured out what settings I used to get the WSXGA+ to display at all again.Fudoh wrote:WSXGA+ looks the same, so I wouldn't bother
It's based off of the NJM2267. I'm still working on eliminating jail bar interference (vertical lines)... but the overall PQ is much better than this:darthcloud wrote:RGB32E could you post the RGB amp you use for your NES? Thanks
My last message probably got lost at the end of the other page.
Are your using this amp?RGB32E wrote:It's based off of the NJM2267. I'm still working on eliminating jail bar interference (vertical lines)... but the overall PQ is much better than this:darthcloud wrote:RGB32E could you post the RGB amp you use for your NES? Thanks
My last message probably got lost at the end of the other page.
For some reason when changing the value of R6 from 47 ohm to 75 ohm and adding a 220uF filter cap, when a given level of R, G, or B is too high (overall brightness of screen content), the channel dimmed. For instance, when playing Crystalis, the bright white background of the SNK logo looked grey. When playing in game, if there was too much red content, the character changed from it's purple pallete to blue!
That was really quick! Yes, that's basically it... The idea came from his PCE Duo-RX page. I didn't realize he had a page for the N64 as well! I had planed to build another for my N64, looks like he's already done exactly what I was planning to do!darthcloud wrote:Are your using this amp?
http://baku.homeunix.net/RGB/Nintendo64/Nintendo64.html
To get ride of jail bar your need to shield everything with "copper tape". I'm not at home right now but when I come back I will post picture of what I've done with my snes to eliminate all noise. Now I can play without LPF setting and the picture is perfect.
I appreciate the info, but from my research and experience, the jail bars exist in the signal to begin with, and not because of a lack of shielding per say. According to Baku, if the same RGB mod is applied to the AV Famicom (redesign), the jail bar interference isn't present. Though, I will try out an idea to see if I can tame the issue.
Yeais my snes is weird I'm getting lot of noise with it, I also have to use AFC of 0 otherwise the screen is all mess up. Maybe with a super famicom I could leave AFC to default.RGB32E wrote:Umm... wow... that shielding job is rather... insane!
Also, my stock SNES with SHVC-010 doesn't exhibit any noticable noise to begin with... or at least not how you describe.
Yes, your snes and setup is weird?!darthcloud wrote:Yeais my snes is weird I'm getting lot of noise with it, I also have to use AFC of 0 otherwise the screen is all mess up. Maybe with a super famicom I could leave AFC to default.
Happy Thanksgiving! 
LOL, I tried the old PCE amp on a breadboard for my n64 and i'm fine on the noise side. but still I prefer adding a VGA port because it's easier to work with. Cable are easy to find and vga switch are more common than scart oneRGB32E wrote:Yes, your snes and setup is weird?!darthcloud wrote:Yeais my snes is weird I'm getting lot of noise with it, I also have to use AFC of 0 otherwise the screen is all mess up. Maybe with a super famicom I could leave AFC to default.
Anyways, I built another NJM amp, replaced the old 2SC1815 amp in my N64 and the results are great! I can run B0 or B1 without the need for setting either the AFC or LPF!!!. So, once you get parts, you shoudn't need to shield the circuitry....
Only, I had forgotten that at that time...RGB32E wrote:Also, the SNES connector provides +5VDC, so I wonder why he didn't tap power from that spot, so that the diodes would not be necessary... Hmm...
This is great info. I will get some for future projectsdarthcloud wrote: And shielded every analog cable inside my SNES. Now my picture is perfect. Hope this might help you with your other mod. I'm going to do the RGB mod for famicom and N64 soon once I get all the right part.
Did you solder the tape to GND on the motherboard or is that not needed? Yes it's grounded to the motherboard. But result may vary because my N64 don't seam to need such sheilding as my snes does.Konsolkongen wrote:This is great info. I will get some for future projectsdarthcloud wrote: And shielded every analog cable inside my SNES. Now my picture is perfect. Hope this might help you with your other mod. I'm going to do the RGB mod for famicom and N64 soon once I get all the right part.
D2 option are: Componant video/ RGBHV / RGBSRGB32E wrote:Compatibility Update:
I tried out my Atari Jaguar via D2 VGA connector (RGBs). Of the 3 options for D2 input mode (Component/RGB?/RGB??), the third selection (RGB Normal) worked the best with the Jaguar. I've always noticed that the gamma curve with the Jaguar needs to be adjusted to look "correct", but that's an adjustment I change on my TV, not the XRGB-3.
B0: Works perfect. Didn't need to adjust AFC (no curling at top of screen). No need for LPF.
B1: Works perfect. Didn't need to adjust AFC (no curling at top of screen). No need for LPF.
Final Fight (CPS1 Arcade PCB) via D2 VGA connector (RGBs with 160 ohm resistors in series on red, green, and blue):
B0: Works perfect. AFC level of 4 to straighten out top of picture. No need for LPF.
B0: Works perfect. AFC level of 4 to straighten out top of picture and screen stability. No need for LPF.
EDIT: With CPS1 PCBs (Strider is the same way), if I do not select the second D2 mode option (instead of the third), the image on the screen is wavy! Weird....
Hmmm... that's interesting. None of the sources I've connected have separate sync, yet I get a stable picture from CPS1 boards when using the "RGBHV" option, and the Sega Saturn only syncs when I use "RGBHV". Perhaps the Game input is more forgiving?darthcloud wrote:D2 option are: Componant video/ RGBHV / RGBS
I've only used the game input with my SNES and N64, since that's the only JP21 RGB cable I have (SHVC-010) and have not built any adapters for that input yet. So perhaps you're using composite video as sync, instead of composite sync as sync?Konsolkongen wrote:My Saturn syncs fine with the D2 port set to RGBs. It does have some flickering in the colors that it doesn't have when using the front RGBs input, but otherwise its fine. Strange
Yeah, I had terminated the RGBS leads from my Super Nova's JAMMA harness to a DB15M connector for use with a Micomsoft XAV-2s that I never ended up using much. Ironically, that termination would have been perfect had I picked up the original XRGB-2 (non-plus). So, for my Super Nova, I've custom terminated heavy duty monitor cables (with series resistors) for my arcade setup (Jamma -> DB15M -> DB15F (+ resistors) -> HDDB15M). Since I mostly use custom cables, the VGA connector on the D2 input is easiest.Artemio wrote:I use my CPS-1 games through the GAME port, so I can test them in my setup to verify your results. Unfortunately I am in teh oppositie situation and I don't have cables for the D2 input, I connect everything through the front: Super Gun with CPS-1, CPS-2, Neo Geo MVS, ZN-2, System 16, System 32, TMNT HW, Naomi and consoles are: Genesis (model 1, 2 and nomad), SMS, SNES and SuperFami, Saturn, PCE, AES, PS1, PS2, Dreamcast and N64.
I usually have my XRGB-3 with AFC at level 4, the only one that has some distortion with that is TMNT so far. I've never noticed any problem with CPS-1 but I can reset my XRGB-3 to defaults and check changing the sync setting. I mainly use B1, but I have tried two bootlegs that do have issues and never sync in B1, only in B0. I'll try those as well.
I noticed that the picture sharpness drops dramatically if the setting is lowered down to 6 and below. I don't recall what the level of '0' looked like, but I would think it would further soften the image. I'll be checking soon for myself, but what are other peoples experience with this setting?The sharpness control is rather aggressive. I find myself using it at "0" most of the time. A sharpness setting of "7" is rather interesting as well as it softens the picture slightly. No idea why it's exactly 7, but you'll notice it yourself: the picture gets sharper with every step from 0 to 6, but drops back at 7.
I tested both CPS-1 boards, Strider and Final Fight on my XRGB-3 using the RGB-21 port. In my case I use potentiometers in the SuperGUN. I can confirm that AFC is needed at level 4, the default level 2 presents shifting to the right on the first 8 pixels, and level 3 is almost perfect but has the first line shifted a bit (barely noticeable).RGB32E wrote:Compatibility Update:
Final Fight (CPS1 Arcade PCB) via D2 VGA connector (RGBs with 160 ohm resistors in series on red, green, and blue):
B0: Works perfect. AFC level of 4 to straighten out top of picture. No need for LPF.
B0: Works perfect. AFC level of 4 to straighten out top of picture and screen stability. No need for LPF.
EDIT: With CPS1 PCBs (Strider is the same way), if I do not select the second D2 mode option (instead of the third), the image on the screen is wavy! Weird....
I'm using the original SEGA RGBs cable and as far as i remember it uses composhit video as sync, so you are probably right.RGB32E wrote:So perhaps you're using composite video as sync, instead of composite sync as sync?Konsolkongen wrote:My Saturn syncs fine with the D2 port set to RGBs. It does have some flickering in the colors that it doesn't have when using the front RGBs input, but otherwise its fine. Strange
sorry to hear! I was really amazed in the jump in quality (noise-wise) when I switched to the RGB cable.I got a RGBs lead for my PS2 today.... but the image is still very bad
No, I had both a modded Slim and a unmodded Slim as well as a few unmodded fat PS2 units and they've all got the same signal quality.could be caused by the modchip i have in my PS2?
might be the best. There're a nice looking premium scart cables for PS available here in Germany. I'll check one of those soon.Or i could just be on the lookout for an original RGBs lead for PS1/2/3 instead...
Good to hear, now i know that it isn't the consoles fault.Fudoh wrote:No, I had both a modded Slim and a unmodded Slim as well as a few unmodded fat PS2 units and they've all got the same signal quality.could be caused by the modchip i have in my PS2?
Kewl please let me know if they are any good.Fudoh wrote:might be the best. There're a nice looking premium scart cables for PS available here in Germany. I'll check one of those soon.Or i could just be on the lookout for an original RGBs lead for PS1/2/3 instead...
