Hello everybody.
So I recently received my brand new replacement Contol Panel Overlay (CPO) from akihabarashop for the Taito Egret 29.
My problem is, there seems to be no way to secure the mounting plate to it. It is metal, and the mounting plate is metal too, but I have no way to attach them. Do I have to somehow weld them together? Or am I missing some part with my Egret 29?
Mine is the same as the link shown....or rather, i have a CPO like that as well as a mounting plate shown in the link, but they are not attached.
http://www.lizardlickamusements.com/pag ... nels.shtml
Anyhow, can anybody with a Taito Egret 29 help me out with this?
Thank you!
Taito Egret 29 control panel help!
I don't have experience with exactly that setup, but it's pretty similar. When my HRAP2SA arrived the mounting plate was disconnected from the face, where it had been spot welded. I ended up gluing it back on with some 5 minute epoxy stuff (comes in a sort of dual plunger setup so you get equal amounts of two liquids, then mix them together), and it seems to have worked pretty well. I can explain what I did in more detail if you'd like.
However, there may be better methods out there. Good luck!
However, there may be better methods out there. Good luck!
-
mikehaggar
- Posts: 272
- Joined: Tue Jan 15, 2008 2:30 am
-
brokenhalo
- Posts: 1406
- Joined: Wed Mar 26, 2008 4:11 am
- Location: philly suburbs
Based on this picture, it looks like empty panels may come without the mounting plate attached. That one at lizardlick is pre-welded, but it's a custom job, not Sega standard. If that's the case, I wonder what people typically do to attach the plate?
My procedure
The mounting plate on my HRAP2SA had clearly been spot welded on, but had broken off, perhaps in shipping or because of a bad weld. Since I got it way cheap off of eBay, I figured I could fix it myself and avoid the hassle of trying to send it back or demanding some compensation.
The first step I did was to sand the contact area of the panel and the mounting plate. This is recommended in order to increase the surface area (roughen the surface) and make a better bond. It may not be necessary if you don't want to mess your stuff up, and if the bond breaks the first time you can sand off the epoxy and try again. It's up to you.
I then cleaned the surfaces with rubbing alcohol, to make sure there's nothing there that would affect the bond.
I traced an outline of the mounting plate in the correct position onto the panel so placement would be easier when the epoxy was on and time was limited. My panel had a couple little indentations where pegs on the plate would fit, and this was handy for placement, but the outline really helped.
The stuff I used was called 5 minute epoxy, but people do say good things about JB Weld. Something that isn't meant for quick bonding would probably be stronger than the quick stuff. I extruded some of the goop from the double-nozzled container onto a piece of foil (paper would be fine too, it should be disposable though), and mixed with a throwaway piece of wood. The instructions said to mix for 60 seconds, so I started a timer at the beginning to ensure correct timing.
Once the two parts of the epoxy were sufficiently mixed together, I applied some to the mounting plate with the mixing utensil. You want a fairly thin layer, but enough that they will stick together well. Also, you want to work efficiently at this point, as the epoxy is hardening gradually. I don't know if it would be better to place the epoxy on both surfaces, but one source I found said to place on one unless there is a large gap to be filled, so I just did one.
With the epoxy on the plate, I carefully stuck it on to the panel, and wiggled it a bit to check that the pegs were in place. I held it together for a few minutes, and then figured it would be fine on its own.
I was doing this with the joystick still attached to the mounting plate, so I didn't see that some epoxy came out from the join into the center hole. It turned out to not be an issue, but you probably want to have a paper towel handy to wipe off excess in there. Also, if you have a clamp of some sort, clamping the pieces together during curing may improve the bond. With the joystick on, I didn't have any good way to do this on my project.
I let it sit for a day or two, then put the stick back together. I didn't actually try the stick out for a few days after that, so I don't know how gradual the curing process is. The bond seems to be reasonably permanent, though it hasn't been that long yet and my old stick is still my primary. It's held up to my sister playing Street Fighter, so it's got to be pretty good
.
I actually took a few pictures during the process, but none between squeezing out the epoxy and sticking the plate on, since I was feeling rushed. I may get around to finding them, or not, but I hope this post was useful to you. Have fun.
My procedure
The mounting plate on my HRAP2SA had clearly been spot welded on, but had broken off, perhaps in shipping or because of a bad weld. Since I got it way cheap off of eBay, I figured I could fix it myself and avoid the hassle of trying to send it back or demanding some compensation.
The first step I did was to sand the contact area of the panel and the mounting plate. This is recommended in order to increase the surface area (roughen the surface) and make a better bond. It may not be necessary if you don't want to mess your stuff up, and if the bond breaks the first time you can sand off the epoxy and try again. It's up to you.
I then cleaned the surfaces with rubbing alcohol, to make sure there's nothing there that would affect the bond.
I traced an outline of the mounting plate in the correct position onto the panel so placement would be easier when the epoxy was on and time was limited. My panel had a couple little indentations where pegs on the plate would fit, and this was handy for placement, but the outline really helped.
The stuff I used was called 5 minute epoxy, but people do say good things about JB Weld. Something that isn't meant for quick bonding would probably be stronger than the quick stuff. I extruded some of the goop from the double-nozzled container onto a piece of foil (paper would be fine too, it should be disposable though), and mixed with a throwaway piece of wood. The instructions said to mix for 60 seconds, so I started a timer at the beginning to ensure correct timing.
Once the two parts of the epoxy were sufficiently mixed together, I applied some to the mounting plate with the mixing utensil. You want a fairly thin layer, but enough that they will stick together well. Also, you want to work efficiently at this point, as the epoxy is hardening gradually. I don't know if it would be better to place the epoxy on both surfaces, but one source I found said to place on one unless there is a large gap to be filled, so I just did one.
With the epoxy on the plate, I carefully stuck it on to the panel, and wiggled it a bit to check that the pegs were in place. I held it together for a few minutes, and then figured it would be fine on its own.
I was doing this with the joystick still attached to the mounting plate, so I didn't see that some epoxy came out from the join into the center hole. It turned out to not be an issue, but you probably want to have a paper towel handy to wipe off excess in there. Also, if you have a clamp of some sort, clamping the pieces together during curing may improve the bond. With the joystick on, I didn't have any good way to do this on my project.
I let it sit for a day or two, then put the stick back together. I didn't actually try the stick out for a few days after that, so I don't know how gradual the curing process is. The bond seems to be reasonably permanent, though it hasn't been that long yet and my old stick is still my primary. It's held up to my sister playing Street Fighter, so it's got to be pretty good
.I actually took a few pictures during the process, but none between squeezing out the epoxy and sticking the plate on, since I was feeling rushed. I may get around to finding them, or not, but I hope this post was useful to you. Have fun.
Have a closer look at that picture and you'll see that the bottom panel is not a printed panel backside, but a plain white one (otherwise the stick+button holes are kinda weird). Those mounting plates (in the clear plastic bag) are only for use if your sticks have a different set of plates.croikle wrote:Based on this picture, it looks like empty panels may come without the mounting plate attached. That one at lizardlick is pre-welded, but it's a custom job, not Sega standard. If that's the case, I wonder what people typically do to attach the plate?
Emph
| My games - http://www.emphatic.seRegalSin wrote:Street Fighters. We need to aviod them when we activate time accellerator.
Ah, how strange. I totally didn't catch that bit. Very sneaky (or perhaps it's a left-handed panel 
). Examining the picture more, I notice that the button positioning is slightly different for the two players (angled outward), to make it easier for two people to play at once. How thoughtful.
I still think that those panels may not have mounting plates, based on the shadows and the fact that Mike's panel came that way. I'm no expert, though.
). Examining the picture more, I notice that the button positioning is slightly different for the two players (angled outward), to make it easier for two people to play at once. How thoughtful.I still think that those panels may not have mounting plates, based on the shadows and the fact that Mike's panel came that way. I'm no expert, though.
Yes, the shadows in the button holes on the bottom panel suggests that it's lying almost flat on that table, but there are also small screw-heads (croikle wrote:I still think that those panels may not have mounting plates, based on the shadows and the fact that Mike's panel came that way. I'm no expert, though.
) visible on top/bottom of the joystick holes. Why put them there if there's no screws on the other side?I just wonder if the cabinet being discussed in this thread is an EGRET or an EGRET II? Do they all share the same panels as Atomswave SD (also made by TAITO)?
Emph
| My games - http://www.emphatic.seRegalSin wrote:Street Fighters. We need to aviod them when we activate time accellerator.
Those spots near the joystick hole are similar to the holes for mounting panel alignment on my stick, but whatever. It's not even the panel Mike ordered, so no point worrying about it. 
Egret 29 means the original Egret. It looks like the panel is more rectangular than the Atomiswave SD's, or either of the later Egrets'.
Egret 29 means the original Egret. It looks like the panel is more rectangular than the Atomiswave SD's, or either of the later Egrets'.
-
mikehaggar
- Posts: 272
- Joined: Tue Jan 15, 2008 2:30 am
Croikle,
Thank you so much for your detailed response! I'm sorry, I forgot to come back to this thread until today...the holidays are quite busy!
I will definitely try this out. your instructions are very clear.
So I'm wondering, does anybody know where I can get mounting brackets to stick onto my CP? For example, onces like on Lizard Lick's CP, anybody familiar with where that comes from? I don't want to stick a mounting plate directly on as I want to be able to change to different plates if necessary, so a setup like LL's would be ideal.
Thanks!!
Pablo
P.S. I found out what was wrong....my egret 29 is missing a vital piece...it's called the control base, and it's a plate that goes underneath the CP itself that mounts the stick rather than a mounting bracket....
It's a shame some guy removed it from mine....
Thank you so much for your detailed response! I'm sorry, I forgot to come back to this thread until today...the holidays are quite busy!
I will definitely try this out. your instructions are very clear.
So I'm wondering, does anybody know where I can get mounting brackets to stick onto my CP? For example, onces like on Lizard Lick's CP, anybody familiar with where that comes from? I don't want to stick a mounting plate directly on as I want to be able to change to different plates if necessary, so a setup like LL's would be ideal.
Thanks!!
Pablo
P.S. I found out what was wrong....my egret 29 is missing a vital piece...it's called the control base, and it's a plate that goes underneath the CP itself that mounts the stick rather than a mounting bracket....
It's a shame some guy removed it from mine....