Xbox 360 visual output problem

Diabollokus · Post by **Diabollokus** » Sat Aug 30, 2008 9:03 pm

Hello

My 360 has just developed an anoying ''static'' and lined signal output on screen, the console displays normally for about 5 mins then the problem kicks in.

The screen basically looks like the matrix code lines. The problem is not TV hardware but a console hardware problem, has anyone else encountered this?

I have no red rings or red lights and games play fine however the screen display is horrible.

Does anyone have any idea what the problem could be?

EDIT: RROD E74, off to microsoft for repair.

Diabollokus · Post by **Diabollokus** » Sat Aug 30, 2008 10:43 pm

Xbox has just died

Got Red ring of Death

Error: E-74

Owned for 8 months.

My megadrive is 17 years old and works perfectly...............

brokenhalo · Post by **brokenhalo** » Sat Aug 30, 2008 11:44 pm

if it's still under warranty send it in. if not search around for the x-clamp mod and fix it yourself. mine red-ringed on me a few months ago and i repaired it with a couple dollars worth of screws and washers and a little bit of thermal paste.

if you want i can elaborate more later, but i'm on dinner break and don't have a lot of time right now.

stuntman · Post by **stuntman** » Sun Aug 31, 2008 7:19 am

RBJTech fix (MK3)

The RBJTech method for the X-Clamp fix is possibly the best. I did it on my brand new Jap 360 (as a preventative measure), although I used a mixture of steel and nylon washers.

Diabollokus · Post by **Diabollokus** » Sun Aug 31, 2008 2:18 pm

Yeah its under warranty so, I'll just send it back. Rang customer support a few hours ago and was pleasently surprised by their service, I'd rather they fix it or replace it than simply me void the warranty, who knows what error could come next.

I learned of those fixes last night and watched a few of the vids on youtube, I'm quite amazed by the failure rate of the console. I never thought I'd be one of those guys whose xbox actually failed. Failure rate must be higher than 20%, although the Halo 3 marathon sessions I've put it through have certainly not helped it.

Its happened at a good time though, gives me 2 weeks of no competitive gaming to get my Msc completed (and started!)

brokenhalo · Post by **brokenhalo** » Sun Aug 31, 2008 9:46 pm

stuntman wrote:RBJTech fix (MK3)

The RBJTech method for the X-Clamp fix is possibly the best. I did it on my brand new Jap 360 (as a preventative measure), although I used a mixture of steel and nylon washers.

honestly, i didn't think there walk through was that good. you shouldn't need to drill the holes any wider like they did, and they recommend NOT running the console with the fan removed to reflow the solder joints (they say it isn't necessary) but pulled chip legs is exactly what causes the RROD and you do need to reflow the solder to reconnect the legs.

the best tutorial i found is here:
http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=599216

you can d/l it in pdf format. and they actually recommend using steel and nylon washers in that tut. and the 2 minute no fan resoldering session.

stuntman · Post by **stuntman** » Mon Sep 01, 2008 5:53 pm

brokenhalo wrote:
stuntman wrote:RBJTech fix (MK3)

The RBJTech method for the X-Clamp fix is possibly the best. I did it on my brand new Jap 360 (as a preventative measure), although I used a mixture of steel and nylon washers.
honestly, i didn't think there walk through was that good. you shouldn't need to drill the holes any wider like they did, and they recommend NOT running the console with the fan removed to reflow the solder joints (they say it isn't necessary) but pulled chip legs is exactly what causes the RROD and you do need to reflow the solder to reconnect the legs.

I don't know about the heating/reflowing, but the actual clamping method is good. It's partly based on lawdog's method which you linked to, but also uses the metal casing to provide extra rigidity. That why the holes have to be drilled out to 5mm, for the M5 bolts to go through. It's just a theory of mine, but if the bolts can conduct enough heat (I used alloy ones) towards the metal casing it might help keep the CPU/GPU a fraction cooler.

brokenhalo · Post by **brokenhalo** » Mon Sep 01, 2008 9:34 pm

i used m5 bolts on mine and didn't have to drill the case. they fit fine without modification.

stuntman · Post by **stuntman** » Mon Sep 01, 2008 9:58 pm

brokenhalo, well that's a mystery. On mine a drill was definitely required

brokenhalo · Post by **brokenhalo** » Tue Sep 02, 2008 2:38 am

stuntman wrote:brokenhalo, well that's a mystery. On mine a drill was definitely required

i reread the method you posted and now i see the differnce. the guide i used just has you bolting the heatsink back to the pcb, whereas the method you linked to they bolt the heatsink to the main casing. that's where the drilling comes in. my bad. seems like a lot more hassle for probably minimal results though. as long as you get rid of that over-engineered POS x-clamp, the problems go away either way.