Best buttons for shmups
Best buttons for shmups
I just modded my Dreamcast stick with an LS-32-02 (pic here), and now I wanna switch the buttons too. Which are the best ones? And do they fit on the Dreamcast stick without having to drill bigger holes?
On a side note, I do occasionally play 3rd strike. Should buttons for beat 'em ups be different than when playing shmups?
On a side note, I do occasionally play 3rd strike. Should buttons for beat 'em ups be different than when playing shmups?
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Alien Soldier
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Re: Best buttons for shmups
You can't go wrong with Sanwa buttons but you'll have to drill bigger hole, same goes for Seimitsu.zap wrote:I just modded my Dreamcast stick with an LS-32-02 (pic here), and now I wanna switch the buttons too. Which are the best ones? And do they fit on the Dreamcast stick without having to drill bigger holes?
On a side note, I do occasionally play 3rd strike. Should buttons for beat 'em ups be different than when playing shmups?
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Necronopticous
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In my experience, the Sanwa OBSN/OBSF series is the way to go for arcade pushbuttons, for shmups or otherwise. I tried out some of the Seimitsu PS-14 series, so that I could conclude for myself whether I was going to be a Sanwa or Seimitsu guy, and my criticism of the Seimitsu buttons is simply that they have a very hollow feel and sound to them. Comparatively, the Sanwa buttons have a very full and clicky feel and sound when pressed. They are both very responsive, so that isn't really an issue. I know many prefer the Seimitsu buttons because they aren't quite as immediately sensitive as the Sanwa buttons are, which is a certainly valid, as it is common to accidently press bomb or something when you only intended to rest your finger on the bomb button. In the end, it's all personal preference. For me, the most important thing is replicating the feel of the arcade, and the Sanwas are exactly what I'm used to using on the arcade cabinets at my local import arcades.
Much like sticks, it's all preference. JP-style buttons are too light and touchy for me. I also prefer concave buttons. As such, I stick with bog-standard Happ/IL buttons with cherry switches. Much like sticks, I need resistance and the tactile feedback when you are about to activate them. I also like resting my fingers on the buttons, which is dangerous with Sanwas.
If you're into JP-style, Sanwa is hard to beat. They have a smooth action and they break cleanly.
If you're into JP-style, Sanwa is hard to beat. They have a smooth action and they break cleanly.
honestly I hate Sanwa buttons for shooters, the button fits loosely inside the housing, the plastic feels rigid and lightweight which I equate to being cheap, and they are ridiculously sensitive, far to easy to accidentally drop bombs by just a brush of the finger. I also dislike how the button face sometimes sits slightly below the housing and the housing has that sharp edge around the interior.
I prefer Seimitsu buttons because they are not as loose or sensitive, they have a very slight tactile feel of double-action/trigger, you push them down and there is a very slight blip feeling when pressing them all the way down to their extent. They are springier, and the plastic has a slightly softer/thicker feel, to me at least.
Happ buttons are ok, but I don't like them much anymore after using Japanese parts, the clickiness is distracting and leads to a perceived grinding unsmooth action. Their plastic is also more malleable, even though it is heavier, but the bendy feel (with how the microswitches are removed) leads it to a cheap feel in my opinion... it has a wasteful, large profile american style build quality, just like the happ sticks.
Maybe my opinions on Sanwa (or Seimitsu) buttons would change if I tried the magnetic ball bearing ones.
I prefer Seimitsu buttons because they are not as loose or sensitive, they have a very slight tactile feel of double-action/trigger, you push them down and there is a very slight blip feeling when pressing them all the way down to their extent. They are springier, and the plastic has a slightly softer/thicker feel, to me at least.
Happ buttons are ok, but I don't like them much anymore after using Japanese parts, the clickiness is distracting and leads to a perceived grinding unsmooth action. Their plastic is also more malleable, even though it is heavier, but the bendy feel (with how the microswitches are removed) leads it to a cheap feel in my opinion... it has a wasteful, large profile american style build quality, just like the happ sticks.
Maybe my opinions on Sanwa (or Seimitsu) buttons would change if I tried the magnetic ball bearing ones.
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Necronopticous
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Just thought I'd chime in once more to remind you how cheap pushbuttons are, and that it is a totally viable option to just buy one of each type you are considering and test it out for yourself. As you can see, there is no overwhelming consensus, and everyone is going to have their own taste. I think figuring out what feels best to you is the best option.
^-- agreedNecronopticous wrote:Just thought I'd chime in once more to remind you how cheap pushbuttons are, and that it is a totally viable option to just buy one of each type you are considering and test it out for yourself. As you can see, there is no overwhelming consensus, and everyone is going to have their own taste. I think figuring out what feels best to you is the best option.

Another +1 for Seimitsu buttons from me.
OBSF 30s and OBSF 30 RGs from Sanwa are lovely and all, but with my clumsy hands they are too sensitive. With Sanwa buttons it's a lot easier to rest your hands on the buttons without pressing, if, like me, you are so inclined to do so.
That said, the RGs are supposed to last forever...
OBSF 30s and OBSF 30 RGs from Sanwa are lovely and all, but with my clumsy hands they are too sensitive. With Sanwa buttons it's a lot easier to rest your hands on the buttons without pressing, if, like me, you are so inclined to do so.
That said, the RGs are supposed to last forever...
Yes! Sorry to be confusing!zap wrote: spadgy: You mean easier to rest your hand on Seimitsu buttons, right?
As standard all arcade buttons are 30mm wide. Thats what the '30' in things like OBSF-30s refers too. You'll be very unlikely to find much else in terms of the main buttons on a stick or cab.
However, many 'start' buttons are 24mm - thus the OBSF-24.
You do get odd buttons sizes about the place. On a Virtua Stick High Grade (PS3) there are these odd 16mm buttons for select and functions like that.
Anyway - as far as I know, the buttons on that stick in your pic are 30mm, so would take all the buttons we have been talking about. I can quickly pop one out of my DC stick tonight, and click in another 30 mm (I have some OBSF-30s laying about) just to be sure, but by the time I've done that somebody here can likely confirm the holes you have are the right size. For now I'm 99% sure! Though as I bought mine pre-modded I don't want to go to the full 100%!
you mean a Japanese cab?spadgy wrote: As standard all arcade buttons are 30mm wide. Thats what the '30' in things like OBSF-30s refers too. You'll be very unlikely to find much else in terms of the main buttons on a stick or cab.
Happ buttons are 1.125 in = 28.575 millimeters
I'm looking forward to picking up some Japanese buttons so they will stay put on my Egret.
I have to agree with the comment about whatever feels comfortable. Both on Sanwa buttons and Happ concave ones, I haven't really felt any appreciable difference. As for sticks, it really depends on the game for me. Cave games I'm more comfortable on a Sanwa, but with games like Radiant Silvergun I can't do anything with such a loose stick. I actually prefer the Happ controls sticks because I can put some pressure on the stick and jiggle it a very small amount to make a minute movement.
Ah! I see. Shows my 'knowledge' is specific to Japanese cabs and sticks! Can anybody recall off of the top of their head sticks that come with Happ buttons (and thus 28.575mm holes) as standard?antron wrote: you mean a Japanese cab?
Happ buttons are 1.125 in = 28.575 millimeters
I'm looking forward to picking up some Japanese buttons so they will stay put on my Egret.
Mas Systems arcade sticks come with Happ buttons - http://www.massystems.com/spadgy wrote:Can anybody recall off of the top of their head sticks that come with Happ buttons (and thus 28.575mm holes) as standard?
Finished the stick earilier this week.
It's my first one, so there's a few mistakes/parts I'm not 100% satisfied with, but I learned alot along the way. I decided to go with skeleton Seimitsu screw ins, and the LS-32-02 stick.
It looks much better in person. Used one full can (300ml) of clear spray to get the glossy and smooth touch.


It's my first one, so there's a few mistakes/parts I'm not 100% satisfied with, but I learned alot along the way. I decided to go with skeleton Seimitsu screw ins, and the LS-32-02 stick.
It looks much better in person. Used one full can (300ml) of clear spray to get the glossy and smooth touch.





Lovely! My first stick mod was just replacing components and reorganising the insides so a certain stick would fit. Your pics make me really want to do a complete overhaul.
So is that still a DC stick - or did you switch out the PCB?
Any practicle tips on what you learned about drilling out the holes on the side?
So is that still a DC stick - or did you switch out the PCB?
Any practicle tips on what you learned about drilling out the holes on the side?
It doesn't have a PCB inside the case right now - it's wired up to a 15 pin VGA connector. I made two project boxes so far, one with a normal PSX pad, and one with the default Dreamcast PCB that was inside the stick. Need to make one for 360 soon!
The largest drill I had access to was 10mm, which I drilled out starting from 2mm and going up, to avoid cracks. Then I just sanded the rest with 180 paper. It didn't take long at all, and turned out really good. The 10mm drill
was really hard and risky to do anyway.
The largest drill I had access to was 10mm, which I drilled out starting from 2mm and going up, to avoid cracks. Then I just sanded the rest with 180 paper. It didn't take long at all, and turned out really good. The 10mm drill
was really hard and risky to do anyway.
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