
Alternative replacements for Egret II power supplies?
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Ozymandiaz1260
- Posts: 779
- Joined: Thu Feb 15, 2007 3:49 pm
- Location: Evansville, IN
Alternative replacements for Egret II power supplies?
Hey, you might remember that my Egret II stopped working a couple of months ago. I'm just now getting around to fixing it, and the problem is definitely a dead power supply. I was wondering if you guys knew of any suitable replacement PSU's that I could easily acquire in America, or if you could tell me how to mod a computer PSU to work with it. I was hoping to be able to take the connector off of my old PSU and put it on the new one so I wouldn't have to somehow connect the wires in the cabinet directly to it. Thanks for any help you guys can give 


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Ozymandiaz1260
- Posts: 779
- Joined: Thu Feb 15, 2007 3:49 pm
- Location: Evansville, IN
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- Posts: 40
- Joined: Wed Mar 05, 2008 10:39 pm
- Location: Westminster
How many volts does the Egret II power supply output? Because I have a feeling that a computer PSU wouldn't output enough to power the monitor as well as the board. But then again, I'm just barely getting into the electronics industry. I'll have to take a look at my Zaxxon cabinet (which is over at my friend's house because my dad won't let me keep it here) because I think the previous owner hacked around with the power supply wiring.
any computer psu will work. And I wouldn't spend big bucks on a new one (a used one is cheap).
For connections, you probably wouldn't find one that would match (I don't think), but it's not hard to splice the wires.
I checked the jamma pinout and then followed the wires in the harness end, and then multimetered the PSU end. Sometimes the psu will have a chart listing colors and voltages on a sticker.
sometimes, I'll keep one connector, splice the other wires and cram them in the holes, tape it up.
Also, if there's no power plug in the cab, I just solder the 110v AC driectly to the psu input.
For connections, you probably wouldn't find one that would match (I don't think), but it's not hard to splice the wires.
I checked the jamma pinout and then followed the wires in the harness end, and then multimetered the PSU end. Sometimes the psu will have a chart listing colors and voltages on a sticker.
sometimes, I'll keep one connector, splice the other wires and cram them in the holes, tape it up.
Also, if there's no power plug in the cab, I just solder the 110v AC driectly to the psu input.
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- Posts: 40
- Joined: Wed Mar 05, 2008 10:39 pm
- Location: Westminster
Dissassembling cabs is not a big deal either. Worst case scenario (if it's locked and no screws on the outside) is still no big deal. If there's no steel locking bar across the front, you can just pry open the coin door with a couple of screwdrivers (the actual locking mechanism will bend under that pretty easily) and then the rest will come apart from the inside.
You could always make a hole in the back (if it's wood) and undo the locking bar. Once I lost the key ring to all my cabs around town and had to bust into them.
You could always make a hole in the back (if it's wood) and undo the locking bar. Once I lost the key ring to all my cabs around town and had to bust into them.
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Ozymandiaz1260
- Posts: 779
- Joined: Thu Feb 15, 2007 3:49 pm
- Location: Evansville, IN
I want to give a big thank you to oxtsu for e-mailing me and helping me figure out what the problem with my PSU was. It turns out that it was just a capacitor that had become unsoldered because someone before me put a new one on and didn't do a very good job about it. It's been months and all I had to do was look at the back of the PCB and make sure everything was connected well
I'm so freaking happy right now

I'm so freaking happy right now


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TigerCraneFist
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