TV RGB(SCART, etc) to JAMMA RGB+CSYNC signal converter

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Neovanglist
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TV RGB(SCART, etc) to JAMMA RGB+CSYNC signal converter

Post by Neovanglist »

(I have crossposted this on a few related forums to get more interest... please bear with me :)

Hi there guys,

A while back people were talking about using the LM1881N chip to do the sync signal separation needed to get game console video output to work correctly in an arcade machine.

I commented (to what avail I'm not sure) that this was not enough in most cases as the video output of a game console is often AC-coupled. (The baseline of the RGB signal is not 0v)

So you will get proper sync, but you will not get proper RGB levels and it can (will) look tinted/washed out.

An example of this is the Playstation 2, where it will "work" but you will get a tinted image with nasty color saturation issues.

This can be "compensated" for by cranking up and playing with the RGB pots on the monitor chassis, however this is not a real solution to the problem, and often times the remote board pots are not even enough... and you have to adjust the gain pots on the chassis itself to get decent looking levels.

The downside to this is that it doesn't really "fix" the problem and it also means when you put anything else into the cab your color levels will be really messed up.

To solve the problem, I've designed a PCB that does both the sync separation and "DC restoration" on all 3 color channels.

It has a 6 pin input header which takes Red, Green, Blue, Composite Video, Ground, and +5v. (All can be sourced from a SCART connector)

The output is another 6 pin header which outputs Red, Green, Blue, Ground, CSync, and VSync.

The color signals are all "restored" to a 0v baseline so they will be in the exact signal format that the arcade CRT expects.

It performs this level calibration automatically, so you do not need to turn any pots to achieve the correct levels. The whole process is adaptive and automatic based on the input signals.

Below is a picture of the PCB layout:
Image

I have commissioned the production of two prototype PCBs this week, which should arrive by the end of next week. (Or soon thereafter)

Assuming everything works as expected (the same way my early prototypes here do) I will be offering them to the community at a very low price... it depends on how many people are interested, but it'll be between $30 and $50 a board. ($30 if we can get > 20 orders, $40-$50 if we only end up with a couple)

The boards are all commercial quality finished, with soldermask, silkscreen labeling, etc. (I have contracted a PCB fab plant in asia to do the board production)

I have selected the highest quality components possible for the board, including 1% tolerance for all resistor components for the best possible signal quality and minimal to no interference. (This is about as good as it gets)

I am also investigating a version that will do the same function from component video sources... but this is much more complex as it requires YCbCr colorspace conversion to RGB as well. (Which needs another chip that is much harder to integrate)

Also, the board is solderless using the following connectors for input/output:

Image

Let me know if you are interested!
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undamned
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Post by undamned »

I design PCB's too :D Hint: The trace that runs between Pins 1 & 2 of Amp B is dangerously close to either pin. I'm assuming those are SO-8 packages on the amps and running traces between SO-8 pins any larger than 10mils is not wise because depending on the board mfg. you use, they may or may not be high quality boards and in the event that they aren't, you may actually have whiskers connecting pads/traces that are too close together.

For the same reason, the red trace running underneath the 1881 looks way too close to Pin 1 & 8.

A good rule of thumb is keep a 10mil tolerance between traces/pads of different nets.

Other than that, looks like a great idea for a board! :D
-ud
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Neovanglist
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Post by Neovanglist »

Hey there :)

Yea, the board company I'm using has 8mil tolerance, I've also set my tolerances to 10mils clearance and ran a DRC on the whole board to ensure that things should be okay... with regards to the pin on AMP-B... it's the +5v that has to get to the other side... so short of using another VIA to get it from the backside of the board there wasn't much of a way to route it outer than between the pins of the SOIC-8 :<

That last pin of the LM1881N is a bit close to the trace, but it has still passed the DRC... if it becomes an issue I'll just cut the pin as it's not wired to anything anyway.

Also, the board is getting fully soldermasked on both sides so this should help prevent getting whiskering and bridged traces during assembly.

This is my first run of the board and I've already sent the drawing off for manufacturing... the initial run is just for 2 prototype boards, so I'll keep these and mine and revise it for the boards that will actually go on sale.

Thanks for the input! Also, what are of phx are you in? :)

Edit:

Also, here is a closeup of that SOIC where it looks close:
Image
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undamned
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Post by undamned »

I'm in North Phoenix. And you? :D
-ud
Righteous Super Hero / Righteous Love
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Post by Neovanglist »

Peoria... just southeast of the 101 loop corner
viletim
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Post by viletim »

Wow....that is truly the worst PCB design I've ever seen. I'm so impressed that I saved a copy.
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