Tatsujin Oh problem!
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Dragon1952
- Posts: 273
- Joined: Wed Oct 10, 2007 5:49 pm
- Location: San Antonio, Texas
Tatsujin Oh problem!
Gentlemen and ladies,
I bought a Toaplan TATSUJIN OH from Yahoo Japan and when I received it I am experiencing this problem, hope someone out there might have an idea what I can do to fix it.
PROBLEM: After I coin-up and start a 1 Player game, the ship appears and is unable to be moved by the controls and is in a continuous shooting state! The second player mode works fine and there is NO problem on that side. This has been tested in two different cabinets, a Sega City and a New Sega City and does it on both. As well no other games have this issue so deductively it is not a cabinet stuck button type issue.
Anyone else have this happen? If so what solved the problem?
i appreciate any help....
I bought a Toaplan TATSUJIN OH from Yahoo Japan and when I received it I am experiencing this problem, hope someone out there might have an idea what I can do to fix it.
PROBLEM: After I coin-up and start a 1 Player game, the ship appears and is unable to be moved by the controls and is in a continuous shooting state! The second player mode works fine and there is NO problem on that side. This has been tested in two different cabinets, a Sega City and a New Sega City and does it on both. As well no other games have this issue so deductively it is not a cabinet stuck button type issue.
Anyone else have this happen? If so what solved the problem?
i appreciate any help....
"wax on...wax off!"
One of my Tatsujin oh PCB has that problem and is caused by the "Jamma HK" wich is broken in the corner, i don't know wich version you have as there is two versions of that "Jamma HK" chip... the one i have is the super fragile peice of shit version... seen in the following pic: http://www.ym2149.com/arcade/pic/broken_jammahk.jpg (wich actually is a bigger version of my avatar
)

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Dragon1952
- Posts: 273
- Joined: Wed Oct 10, 2007 5:49 pm
- Location: San Antonio, Texas
Stefan,
Apparrently, I have the board with the JAMMA HK chip. I have examined it and don't notice any problem but where and how would it show a crack?
The one in your picture looks identical to this one. I will try to generate a close-up picture and post it. I have yet to figure out posting pictures here but I do it all the time on your hobby forums.
dpful,
Also, this borad is very clean so I don't see anissue with dirt or carbon!
Apparrently, I have the board with the JAMMA HK chip. I have examined it and don't notice any problem but where and how would it show a crack?
The one in your picture looks identical to this one. I will try to generate a close-up picture and post it. I have yet to figure out posting pictures here but I do it all the time on your hobby forums.
dpful,
Also, this borad is very clean so I don't see anissue with dirt or carbon!
"wax on...wax off!"
The chip could have cold solder joints (where the solder blob on the back of the board develops a tiny crack around the leg of the chip). Sometimes you can see those; the solder blob should make a very clean slope up to the post of the chips leg, if you can see a line between the two, it could be a crack.
If you carefully touch the pins and blobs with something metal (jumping a crack), then you can identify the cracks also.
Of course, the chip could be blown, but cracks are always more likely.
Plus, no draw all over the board with a pencil or put out your cigarettes on it
If you carefully touch the pins and blobs with something metal (jumping a crack), then you can identify the cracks also.
Of course, the chip could be blown, but cracks are always more likely.
Plus, no draw all over the board with a pencil or put out your cigarettes on it

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Dragon1952
- Posts: 273
- Joined: Wed Oct 10, 2007 5:49 pm
- Location: San Antonio, Texas
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Dragon1952
- Posts: 273
- Joined: Wed Oct 10, 2007 5:49 pm
- Location: San Antonio, Texas
I resoldered anything that looked "cold-solder" suspect and also carefully looked over the entire solder side for any additional cold solder joints and tested and retested but NO luck! Damn! This board wasn't cheap either (by my poor standards) and I suppose I will keep trying since I hate for this to remain in this condition.
"wax on...wax off!"
On my PCB the crack (on the blue boardpart) is rounded so it's easy to see but if the crack just goes along the side of the top block then it could be very difficult to see.Dragon1952 wrote:Stefan,
Apparrently, I have the board with the JAMMA HK chip. I have examined it and don't notice any problem but where and how would it show a crack?
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Dragon1952
- Posts: 273
- Joined: Wed Oct 10, 2007 5:49 pm
- Location: San Antonio, Texas
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Dragon1952
- Posts: 273
- Joined: Wed Oct 10, 2007 5:49 pm
- Location: San Antonio, Texas
Stefan_L wrote:It's changed by adding or removing resistors at JP1-4, i don't know exactly wich combination taht gives what except for Tatsujin Oh wich is having resistors on all JP1-4.CIT wrote:Anybody know how you can change the region setting on a Truxton II/Tatsujin-Oh PCB?
Thanks! I was having a closer look at the PCB last night, and suspected that might be it.
In the test menu all the dip settings are listed, with region settings under "sw 3".
Do you happen to know off the bat what Ω those resistors need to have?
Re: Tatsujin Oh problem!
Don't suppose you could supply some pictures of these cabinets? I know nothing about themDragon1952 wrote:Sega City and a New Sega City

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Dragon1952
- Posts: 273
- Joined: Wed Oct 10, 2007 5:49 pm
- Location: San Antonio, Texas
Here is the New Sega City cabinet!

The Sega City looks very much the same except where the speakers are, which are not protruding but are flush.

The Sega City looks very much the same except where the speakers are, which are not protruding but are flush.
Last edited by Dragon1952 on Sat Jan 26, 2008 6:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.
"wax on...wax off!"
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Dragon1952
- Posts: 273
- Joined: Wed Oct 10, 2007 5:49 pm
- Location: San Antonio, Texas