VoidScaler - a lagless line blending 15KHz downscaler firmware for OSSC

[SlightlyObsessed]

I released modified test build of 0.91 https://github.com/e8root/voidscaler/re ... -dev300426

I don't know if it will help older OSSC with "1.8" mod or not but it might.
This release detects if OSSC is genuine rev.1.8 and it its not rev.1.8 and if its not then it puts pin used by modded devices for SoG signal to high impedance.
That change makes red LED only works on rev.1.8. It might be possible to make red LED still work on older devices (especially not modded) but first we need to check if that fix actually does anything to improve compatibility.

Other changes is enabling two features which were by mistake missing in 0.91 and fixing routing quality.
I only made single version this time as its actually a lot of effort producing good binary. Process is a bit random and needs testing.

Next release is in progress but nowhere near ready. It will include profile saving functionality and thus allow to make own defaults on single firmware.

https://imgur.com/a/7sw4Ixw
Are the boxes supposed to be squished in the middle like this?

Yes, on flat panels or when you capture output it will be extremely wide if panel its configured to show correct aspect ratio.
VoidScaler uses "super resolution" type of output to improve compatibility with DACs, reduce jitter and allow high quality sharpening filter (speed up pixel transitions without producing obvious sharpening filter ringing). On CRTs its all about timings and not virtual resolution like what flat panels will read from HDMI port.

I did a quick test and for my older OSSC with the mod, I no longer get the output boxes on the CRT when switching to this build (or any other video output that I can see).Thank you!

[marqs]

PCB v1.8 and modified older boards route almost raw csync/hsync from video ADC to FPGA instead of field ID to improve mode detection and decoding. On modified boards it's fed into a different pin that needs to be taken into account during fw initialization.

[trazgazm]

Thanks for making this, I have tried the '0.80-dev051125' version and was able to get an output to my CRT TV from my PC.

Unfortunately, none of the later builds work for me and I am only able to see the black and white test squares. In the latest build I was able to get my desktop to show for a split second by holding the PIC button but it doesn't stay.

I have a v1.8 OSSC with the latest firmware installed.
I am connecting from my PC via HDMI to VGA and outputting to my CRT via another HDMI to VGA and then VGA to SCART.

[delphinium12]

Hey everyone,

Any help with this would be appreciated. I'm trying to help my boyfriend finally get this set up as an early birthday present, but I'm feeling pretty out of my depth here. The current setup is:

Steam Deck -> Sabrent USB-C Port -> UGREEN HDMI to VGA converter (plugged into USB-C port for power and HDMI, component Red and White plugged into CRT) -> VGA -> Voidscaler 0.91t -> UGREEN HDMI to VGA -> VGA to Component -> Green to yellow, yellow to yellow in CRT

I've attached images in case some of that does not make sense. I apologize in advance lol

https://imgur.com/a/voidscaler-setup-E9RSWUj

Currently when I have everything on and I'm on AUX on the CRT, it has a thin white line that flashes every so often.

As I said any help would be appreciated!!

[TOGL]

I saw that there have been some firmware updates to the VoidScaler, and wanted to confirm a few things. ( Bitfunx OSSC v1.8 )

Does the Sideload.bin for the newest firmware (0.91-dev300426) work by itself instead of having the Official OSSC firmware installed?
If so then how do I go about updating my current firmware (0.80-dev051125) to the newest one?

Or how do I flash from the Void Scaler to the Official OSSC Firmware?

[PC Engine Fan X!]

Hey everyone,

Any help with this would be appreciated. I'm trying to help my boyfriend finally get this set up as an early birthday present, but I'm feeling pretty out of my depth here. The current setup is:

Steam Deck -> Sabrent USB-C Port -> UGREEN HDMI to VGA converter (plugged into USB-C port for power and HDMI, component Red and White plugged into CRT) -> VGA -> Voidscaler 0.91t -> UGREEN HDMI to VGA -> VGA to Component -> Green to yellow, yellow to yellow in CRT

I've attached images in case some of that does not make sense. I apologize in advance lol

https://imgur.com/a/voidscaler-setup-E9RSWUj

Currently when I have everything on and I'm on AUX on the CRT, it has a thin white line that flashes every so often.

As I said any help would be appreciated!!

On Amazon.com is a Tendak branded HDMI to RCA Composite Video/S-Video converter/downscaler: https://www.amazon.com/Tendak-Composite ... 184&sr=8-1

I've bought a few in the past and they do a good job of converting 480p, 720p & 1080p HDMI signals to either RCA Composite Video output or S-Video output in 240p format as well. Using an Oled based Nintendo Switch in docked mode with the HDMI cable hooked up to the Tendak HDMI to Composite Video/S-Video converter box and using a yellow colored RCA Composite video cable hooked up to a 9" Sony Trinitron CRT TV -- works like a charm indeed.

Nintendo Oled Switch docked via HDMI output >> Tendak HDMI to Composite/S-Video converter box >> Composite Video out >> composite video cable into Sony 9" Trinitron TV.

----------
If you use a Monster Cable branded composite video cable setup -- you'll get a slightly better overall picture (as the Monster Cable RCA composite video cable is double shielded from both RF & EM interference and is rated at 75ohms + gold plated connector ends): https://www.ebay.com/itm/177417259596?_ ... ondition=3
----------

I've noticed that on my NEC TurboGrafx-16 console with the optional NEC TurboBooster add-on, using a Monster Cable branded RCA composite video cable sure made a difference in the overall picture output compared to using a cheap-ass no-frills non-shielded composite video cable setup -- this was back in 1994-1995. Of course nowadays, using this modern-day A/V adapter box gives the end-user more diverse options (including RCA Composite Video, S-Video, Component Video & Euro Scart/JPN 21-pin RGB outputs) and is compatible with the NEC manufactured TurboGrafx-16/PC Engine/Core Grafx/Core Grafx II/SuperGrafx consoles via the backside "EXT Bus Port" interface: https://castlemaniagames.com/products/d ... ooster-ttp

https://stoneagegamer.com/engine-block- ... ngine.html

PC Engine Fan X! ^_~

[dentnz]

PCB v1.8 and modified older boards route almost raw csync/hsync from video ADC to FPGA instead of field ID to improve mode detection and decoding. On modified boards it's fed into a different pin that needs to be taken into account during fw initialization.

Ah, that's likely the problem. @E8Root, I hope this helps?

[e8root]

Steam Deck -> Sabrent USB-C Port -> UGREEN HDMI to VGA converter (plugged into USB-C port for power and HDMI, component Red and White plugged into CRT) -> VGA -> Voidscaler 0.91t -> UGREEN HDMI to VGA -> VGA to Component -> Green to yellow, yellow to yellow in CRT

VoidScaler doesn't output component via VGA which is what your VGA to Component adapter requires. Besides even if that was possible you would not get color with such setup. You need VGA/SCART to Composite adapter instead.

On Amazon.com is a Tendak branded HDMI to RCA Composite Video/S-Video converter/downscaler

That is hardly an alternative and especially for games.
I saw it bazzlion of times where recommending alternatives to whatever downscaler was being discussed but they usually skip all the details about these alternatives. Imho it isn't good to recommend something and just say "and it works great for me" because that tells you nothing about anything. Otherwise these cheap adapters are laggy, don't have frame lock or 240p or any form of pixelperfect and often do have wrong aspect ratio and correcting it is hard. Good for easy setup when you want to e.g. watch anime or smt. I would not recommend them for any sort of gaming.

Does the Sideload.bin for the newest firmware (0.91-dev300426) work by itself instead of having the Official OSSC firmware installed?
If so then how do I go about updating my current firmware (0.80-dev051125) to the newest one?
Or how do I flash from the Void Scaler to the Official OSSC Firmware?

You will need to write image of OSSC 1.21 to SD card using something like Balena Etcher or dd and on OSSC side hold button (if I remember correctly the first one) during device power on until you see BOOTLOADER. Then hold both buttons on OSSC and press 10... or hold these two buttons for a while until LCD backlight starts flashing.

Thing to note is that you should probably use something like small SDHC card. I tested it with 4GB. I say this because that bootloader happens to be a little buggy and might not work well with non-SDHC cards or if card is too big. That is why I stopped shipping versions with it. Need to fix it.

Thanks for making this, I have tried the '0.80-dev051125' version and was able to get an output to my CRT TV from my PC.

Most baffling post. No idea why that could be.
Since you see output then the issue is with input.... no idea currently. I will check what I changed.

PCB v1.8 and modified older boards route almost raw csync/hsync from video ADC to FPGA instead of field ID to improve mode detection and decoding. On modified boards it's fed into a different pin that needs to be taken into account during fw initialization.

I assumed e.g. modded 1.6 will be like 1.8 but apparently not.
In latest fw I am just checking one of the pins which is connected to first button if the state of first button and that other pin are the same and if not I put pin where red LED is connected to high impedance. VoidScaler doesn't use either FID or SoG signals and will likely never need SoG because TVP chip seems to be able to handle the decoding all by itself.

[PC Engine Fan X!]

On Amazon.com is a Tendak branded HDMI to RCA Composite Video/S-Video converter/downscaler

That is hardly an alternative and especially for games.
I saw it bazzlion of times where recommending alternatives to whatever downscaler was being discussed but they usually skip all the details about these alternatives. Imho it isn't good to recommend something and just say "and it works great for me" because that tells you nothing about anything. Otherwise these cheap adapters are laggy, don't have frame lock or 240p or any form of pixelperfect and often do have wrong aspect ratio and correcting it is hard. Good for easy setup when you want to e.g. watch anime or smt. I would not recommend them for any sort of gaming.

The Tendak HDMI to Composite Video/S-Video adapter does support 240p via the NTSC switch on the backside -- sure, if the original screen format is displayed in widescreen format, it'll be squished on the 4:3 CRT-based TV or gaming monitor (unless there's a screen mode to enable 4:3 screen mode from within said game's in-menu screen parameters -- then it'll display correctly as intended).

---------
The Switch port of Crimson Clover does allow you to re-adjust the overall screen re-sizing so that it'll display properly in 4:3 screen mode with tate included with a Sony 9" Trinitron TV setup indeed (but that's a special rare exception in this particular instance/case as most Switch games do not allow for re-sizing to 4:3 screen parameters and are presented as is in the original widescreen presentation in either 480p, 720p or 1080p).
---------

PC Engine Fan X! ^_~

[manfredi90]

On Amazon.com is a Tendak branded HDMI to RCA Composite Video/S-Video converter/downscaler

That is hardly an alternative and especially for games.
I saw it bazzlion of times where recommending alternatives to whatever downscaler was being discussed but they usually skip all the details about these alternatives. Imho it isn't good to recommend something and just say "and it works great for me" because that tells you nothing about anything. Otherwise these cheap adapters are laggy, don't have frame lock or 240p or any form of pixelperfect and often do have wrong aspect ratio and correcting it is hard. Good for easy setup when you want to e.g. watch anime or smt. I would not recommend them for any sort of gaming.

The Tendak HDMI to Composite Video/S-Video adapter does support 240p via the NTSC switch on the backside -- sure, if the original screen format is displayed in widescreen format, it'll be squished on the 4:3 CRT-based TV or gaming monitor (unless there's a screen mode to enable 4:3 screen mode from within said game's in-menu screen parameters -- then it'll display correctly as intended).

---------
The Switch port of Crimson Clover does allow you to re-adjust the overall screen re-sizing so that it'll display properly in 4:3 screen mode with tate included with a Sony 9" Trinitron TV setup indeed (but that's a special rare exception in this particular instance as most Switch games do not allow for re-sizing to 4:3 screen parameters and are presented as is in widescreen in either 480p, 720p or 1080p).
---------

PC Engine Fan X! ^_~

I strongly doubt that adapter has 240p output. These adapters output in 480i, in addition to introducing considerable lag. I fear that using it with OSSC completely defeats the purpose of using voidscaler.


For those interested, I wanted to confirm that using the bitfunx Wii to HDMI converter (which is a simple transcoder and maintains the resolution at 480p) works perfectly and I can use the Wii in 240p with games that are 480p

[delphinium12]

Steam Deck -> Sabrent USB-C Port -> UGREEN HDMI to VGA converter (plugged into USB-C port for power and HDMI, component Red and White plugged into CRT) -> VGA -> Voidscaler 0.91t -> UGREEN HDMI to VGA -> VGA to Component -> Green to yellow, yellow to yellow in CRT

VoidScaler doesn't output component via VGA which is what your VGA to Component adapter requires. Besides even if that was possible you would not get color with such setup. You need VGA/SCART to Composite adapter instead.

I got a BITFUNX RGBS/VGA/SCART to Component adapter. There has been some progress, but it still isn't functioning as it should. The new setup is:

Steam Deck -> Sabrent USB-C Port -> UGREEN HDMI to VGA converter (plugged into USB-C port for power and HDMI, component Red and White plugged into CRT) -> VGA -> Voidscaler 0.91t -> UGREEN HDMI to VGA -> BITFUNX Component Adapter -> Green to yellow, yellow to CRT

It is still doing the white line flashing across the screen sometimes, and when I take the OSSC out of the equation and go straight from the steam deck to HDMI to VGA to BITFUNX Component Adapter to CRT, I do at least get an image but it's grainy and cuts off.

I have the Voidscaler set to RGBHV through the remote.

I have a feeling I downloaded the wrong version of software or something, I apologize for needing this explained to me like an uneducated child but I'm in the dark here unfortunately.

[SlightlyObsessed]

Steam Deck -> Sabrent USB-C Port -> UGREEN HDMI to VGA converter (plugged into USB-C port for power and HDMI, component Red and White plugged into CRT) -> VGA -> Voidscaler 0.91t -> UGREEN HDMI to VGA -> VGA to Component -> Green to yellow, yellow to yellow in CRT

VoidScaler doesn't output component via VGA which is what your VGA to Component adapter requires. Besides even if that was possible you would not get color with such setup. You need VGA/SCART to Composite adapter instead.

I got a BITFUNX RGBS/VGA/SCART to Component adapter. There has been some progress, but it still isn't functioning as it should. The new setup is:

Steam Deck -> Sabrent USB-C Port -> UGREEN HDMI to VGA converter (plugged into USB-C port for power and HDMI, component Red and White plugged into CRT) -> VGA -> Voidscaler 0.91t -> UGREEN HDMI to VGA -> BITFUNX Component Adapter -> Green to yellow, yellow to CRT

It is still doing the white line flashing across the screen sometimes, and when I take the OSSC out of the equation and go straight from the steam deck to HDMI to VGA to BITFUNX Component Adapter to CRT, I do at least get an image but it's grainy and cuts off.

I have the Voidscaler set to RGBHV through the remote.

I have a feeling I downloaded the wrong version of software or something, I apologize for needing this explained to me like an uneducated child but I'm in the dark here unfortunately.

Based on the image you posted before, it looks like you're connecting to the CRT on a composite video input. Composite video isn't the same as component. Composite video has all video information in a single signal cable. Component video on the other hand, is a completely different format and it has the video signal into three separate channels for better quality. Some CRTs have composite inputs, some have component. I'm not personally familiar with the BITFUNX adapter but it doesn't appear to output composite. So, if your set only has composite video in, your going to need something that converts the output from voidscaler to composite or find another CRT with component inputs or even internally mod the CRT TV (for RGB) if compatible.

Connecting from "green" of component to a "yellow" composite in, you should still see some image but it won’t have color. You have the original firmware loaded on the OSSC and are loading voidscaler as a 2nd firmware, correct?

[Fallback]

I was able to get VoidScaler running on a OSSC 1.8 Classic unit outputting to a PVM-20M4U and the results are crisp and downright amazing.

Kudos and HUGE thanks to e8root!!!

Currently I am only able to run it by sideloading via the menu after turning the unit on. Is there a way to set VoidScaler as the primary firmware?

[marqs]

It sounds like autoboot feature for secondary firmware would make if more convenient for some. I'll consider that when making the next official fw.

[maya]

I bought an OSSC specifically for voidscaler so I don't have a lot of experience here. I got the bitfunx OSSC if that's relevant.
HW v1.8
Official fw 1.21
Voidscaler 0.91 RGBHV 4:3
signal path is HDMI/VGA DAC>OSSC>HDMI/VGA DAC>component transcoder>TV (4:3 SD)
Using PC as input I've had some luck with some of the provided EDID resolutions. 1280x960 is great and 640x480 is very reliable. However I cannot get 720p or 1080p to work. Or any widescreen resolution.
I also tried from my nintendo Switch. I could get 480p (squished widescreen, cannot get letterbox.) But could not get 720p or 1080p to work.
I've tried pressing pretty much every button on the remote many times.
Thank you so much e8root! Even with just 1280x960 from my PC, my OSSC purchase is worth it.

no joke, I'm doing exactly this also. rtx 3050 laptop -> Hdmi to vga dac -> bitfunx ossc -> hdmi to vga dac -> bitfunx vga to component transcoder -> crt

i applied the edid resolutions and im using 1280x960, cant get 720 or 1080 to work either. dont really care though at the moment.

it looks beautiful. my only issue is that there's like a lot of interference so im hoping its just the 2 shitty zuyo hdmi to vga dacs from amazon that im using, cause the component cables, vga cables and transcoder have no interference on my crt when used with other systems.

which hdmi to vga dac are you using if you dont mind me asking?

[dentnz]

PCB v1.8 and modified older boards route almost raw csync/hsync from video ADC to FPGA instead of field ID to improve mode detection and decoding. On modified boards it's fed into a different pin that needs to be taken into account during fw initialization.

I assumed e.g. modded 1.6 will be like 1.8 but apparently not.
In latest fw I am just checking one of the pins which is connected to first button if the state of first button and that other pin are the same and if not I put pin where red LED is connected to high impedance. VoidScaler doesn't use either FID or SoG signals and will likely never need SoG because TVP chip seems to be able to handle the decoding all by itself.

I installed the latest firmware (0.91-dev300426), and the green sync LED is solidly lit! I assume this means it's getting sync perfectly from my Dreamcast. However, I am not getting any meaningful output on the CRT. I would have thought that I would get at least the test pattern? I am assuming this is because my CRT or source input (Dreamcast) is not 16:9and the the latest firmware is denoted "169". Could this be the problem? If so, are you able to generate a 4:3 firmware please? Would love to test this out further... I am using the previous 4:3 release with the "hold mode button to get sync" trick, and though it works fairly reliably. I'd love a solution that worked every time. Many thanks and keep up the great work!

[YoYkA]

This is more of a general question, but now that this software have been out for a bit, any recommend setting for the different consoles out there, like Playstation 3/4/5, Wii U, Switch 1/2, Xbox 360/One/X, Steamdeck, NES/SNES/Genesis...etc mini consoles, Atari Gamestation Go, Evercade, Analogue Pocket.

Is there anything that in your opinion works well, or does not work at all?

[Timmaay]

This is more of a general question, but now that this software have been out for a bit, any recommend setting for the different consoles out there, like Playstation 3/4/5, Wii U, Switch 1/2, Xbox 360/One/X, Steamdeck, NES/SNES/Genesis...etc mini consoles, Atari Gamestation Go, Evercade, Analogue Pocket.

Is there anything that in your opinion works well, or does not work at all?

I'm using the 4:3 RGBs firmware from previous release. Haven't figured out the best standard way to get a picture to show, so I just keep mashing the position, width and zoom buttons, and after a while I get a picture to show. Still have to try and see if the latest firmware works on my setup, which is 16:9 only it seems? But really enjoying it when it works!

Anyhow, for my methods: I have all hdmi devices hooked up to a Retrotink4kCE, which then outputs to the OSSC VoidScaler. This way I have even more control of horizontal and vertical scaling, for minimal added lag. This even gives me the option to route my retro consoles through it, for some more picture control. But not worth the hassle really.

Setup is 3-1 HDMI switch-> RT4K->HDMI->VGA(dac), OSSC-> HDMI->VGA(dac) to SCART retrotink cable->CRT
Havent powered the Vga dacs.

I've hooked up the SNES classic mini at 720p and use 240p decimation with this. Razor sharp image this way.

Played on my Nintendo Switch at 1080p for newer 3D games and 720p for the retro stuff or pixelart games. When using 1080p I use one of the 480i modes, or the 240p blend mode, depending on the game. 720p again the 240p decimation.
My crt has a 16:9 mode so that's what I use depending on the content.
Sometimes I use the RT4K to overscan the 1080p signal to 5x, for certain 270p games. But get mixed results.

WiiU pretty much the same setup as Switch. Still have to try my Xbox360, PS5 and PC, but I expect similar results at those resolutions, though curious for a 960p mode.

Was hoping to play some blurays on my crt as well, but I have to find some HDCP stripper thingy somewhere because it won't play nice. Probably copyright protection?

Anyway, those are my experiences. Hope it helps!