My CRT is slightly darker on the left

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BLEEN
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My CRT is slightly darker on the left

Post by BLEEN »

My 27FS100 has a weird issue as pictured here:
Image

I made the image brighter so you can see what I'm talking about. Darker on the left, brighter on the right but kinda in vague columns? This shows no matter the input, or with even nothing connected and a blank picture (as pictured above!)

What do you think? I was advised to change a few caps near B+ and the neckboard. I have done that but there was no change. I then replaced all the caps on the neckboard – also no change!

The caps I replaced I jotted down. They are:

Code: Select all

C board:
C701
C703
C704
C705
C709
C710
C713
C714

A board:
C540
C541
Schematics/service manual here for convenience:
https://archive.org/download/kv27fs100/kv27fs100.pdf

It's barely noticeable honestly but enough to annoy me!

Does anyone know anything about the KV-27FS100/BA-5D chassis TVs and a possible solution to this problem?

Appreciate any help! Great forum and thanks in advance!
BLEEN
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Re: My CRT is slightly darker on the left

Post by BLEEN »

Sorry for the bump but while I still have the set open maybe someone has some guidance. :)
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vol.2
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Re: My CRT is slightly darker on the left

Post by vol.2 »

Uneven raster can be a number of things, but most likely is caused by poor damping in the horizontal. Your biggest culprit should be the S correction cap, which should be located on the secondary side of the H Yoke somewhere.

Anything else in the H yoke path could be suspect though, even film caps.

Less likely is that this could be in the video itself, and it's some kind of ringing coupling into the video at some point in the signal path.

Pray it's in the horizontal because, if it's in the video somewhere, there's about a hundred places it could be coupling in.
BLEEN
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Re: My CRT is slightly darker on the left

Post by BLEEN »

vol.2 wrote: Fri Jan 09, 2026 9:05 pm Uneven raster can be a number of things, but most likely is caused by poor damping in the horizontal. Your biggest culprit should be the S correction cap, which should be located on the secondary side of the H Yoke somewhere.

Anything else in the H yoke path could be suspect though, even film caps.

Less likely is that this could be in the video itself, and it's some kind of ringing coupling into the video at some point in the signal path.

Pray it's in the horizontal because, if it's in the video somewhere, there's about a hundred places it could be coupling in.
Hi there! Thanks for the reply! I'll see if I can locate the S-cap!

And what do you mean by video?
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Hoagtech
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Re: My CRT is slightly darker on the left

Post by Hoagtech »

What does your raster look like on a test image?

Is your geometry any different on both sides?
Copyright 1987
BLEEN
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Re: My CRT is slightly darker on the left

Post by BLEEN »

Hoagtech wrote: Sat Jan 10, 2026 7:35 pm What does your raster look like on a test image?

Is your geometry any different on both sides?
I recently calibrated it. Here are some photos:
Image
Image
Image
Image
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vol.2
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Re: My CRT is slightly darker on the left

Post by vol.2 »

Yeah, the geometry is at least even. So that probably rules out the S correction cap as it would also mess up your horizontal linearity.

I would personally just be looking at anything electrolytic in the horizontal. Also make sure you replaced the caps with the correct values and in the in correct orientation, especially anything in the deflection.

If all that looks good and you can't find any bad or marginal lytic caps in the horizontal, then I would probably look for a damper cap on the primary side of the flyback from the horizontal yoke. It would be a high voltage ceramic or film cap across a diode that goes to ground between the HOT and the flyback.
BLEEN
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Re: My CRT is slightly darker on the left

Post by BLEEN »

vol.2 wrote: Sat Jan 10, 2026 10:48 pm Yeah, the geometry is at least even. So that probably rules out the S correction cap as it would also mess up your horizontal linearity.

I would personally just be looking at anything electrolytic in the horizontal. Also make sure you replaced the caps with the correct values and in the in correct orientation, especially anything in the deflection.

If all that looks good and you can't find any bad or marginal lytic caps in the horizontal, then I would probably look for a damper cap on the primary side of the flyback from the horizontal yoke. It would be a high voltage ceramic or film cap across a diode that goes to ground between the HOT and the flyback.
Awesome thanks. I had looked over the board but didn't see anything bulging or leaking. I guess I can start replacing some caps by the HOT for now? I know they can dry out but visually look fine.

If you don't mind, you think you can point to the area where or which caps might be offending?
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vol.2
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Re: My CRT is slightly darker on the left

Post by vol.2 »

BLEEN wrote: Sun Jan 11, 2026 4:12 am If you don't mind, you think you can point to the area where or which caps might be offending?
I wouldn't just randomly replace stuff. You might make things worse, especially if the new caps have different characteristics. You really want to be testing the caps and only replacing them if they are bad. It's extremely unlikely that a cap which tests good is going to cause a big problem and you're better off leaving it alone.

Q502 is HOT. The collector of Q502 goes to H DY + (Horizontal Deflection Yoke Positive) and there's a whole network of components between them which is designed to modulate the deflection signal. The H Yoke signal is extremely powerful; it builds up huge voltage swings between the flyback and the yoke itself. When the yoke's field collapses, it sends a huge spike back towards the HOT and the damper diode stuff's job is to control that action. The caps in that area soften the blow. If any of the diodes are marginal or the caps are losing value or going up in ESR, it could create ringing or exaggerate raster brightness unevenness.

Remember that all CRTs have uneven brightness across them. That's a side-effect of the way the gun draws the lines from side to side. There are components in the set which are there to minimize it by evening out the trace.

The cap in that area are C507, 509, 510, 511, 527, etc, etc. None of almost none of them electrolytic. They are probably a mixture of ceramics and film. There's also caps on the other side of the H Yoke in the C515-C518 area.

Typically, these caps in newer sets don't fail, but you're obviously seeing something weird, so maybe one did.

You very well could go in and verify that all of them work. It could be some other component in the horizontal that is to blame. It could the HOT, it could be an IC, it could be a random diode or transistor that connects in some way and is sinking current. It would be very difficult to figure that out unless you had a scope and an isolation transformer. It would probably be very difficult anyway.

Then there's also the possibility that it's coupled into the video somewhere. I wouldn't even venture to guess in that situation. It's such a late-game set with so many ICs and such a complicated arrangement. Beyond what I currently can parse in a reasonable amount of time. I'd have to study it for weeks to figure out how it all works, and that's just step one in tracking something down. In cases like this, I usually end up soldering wires to the underside of the PCB and scoping all the waveforms while the set is running to look for something wrong. And that's another thing, you need an on-spec signal generator to produce the correct test patterns to even get valid scope results.

In any case, if you want to try poking around at the caps in the horizontal area to see if anything is obviously out of spec, this is where it is generally. I put little red arrows on the HYOKE connections from the edge of the PCB.

Image
BLEEN
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Re: My CRT is slightly darker on the left

Post by BLEEN »

vol.2 wrote: Sun Jan 11, 2026 5:05 pm
BLEEN wrote: Sun Jan 11, 2026 4:12 am If you don't mind, you think you can point to the area where or which caps might be offending?
I wouldn't just randomly replace stuff. You might make things worse, especially if the new caps have different characteristics. You really want to be testing the caps and only replacing them if they are bad. It's extremely unlikely that a cap which tests good is going to cause a big problem and you're better off leaving it alone.

Q502 is HOT. The collector of Q502 goes to H DY + (Horizontal Deflection Yoke Positive) and there's a whole network of components between them which is designed to modulate the deflection signal. The H Yoke signal is extremely powerful; it builds up huge voltage swings between the flyback and the yoke itself. When the yoke's field collapses, it sends a huge spike back towards the HOT and the damper diode stuff's job is to control that action. The caps in that area soften the blow. If any of the diodes are marginal or the caps are losing value or going up in ESR, it could create ringing or exaggerate raster brightness unevenness.

Remember that all CRTs have uneven brightness across them. That's a side-effect of the way the gun draws the lines from side to side. There are components in the set which are there to minimize it by evening out the trace.

The cap in that area are C507, 509, 510, 511, 527, etc, etc. None of almost none of them electrolytic. They are probably a mixture of ceramics and film. There's also caps on the other side of the H Yoke in the C515-C518 area.

Typically, these caps in newer sets don't fail, but you're obviously seeing something weird, so maybe one did.

You very well could go in and verify that all of them work. It could be some other component in the horizontal that is to blame. It could the HOT, it could be an IC, it could be a random diode or transistor that connects in some way and is sinking current. It would be very difficult to figure that out unless you had a scope and an isolation transformer. It would probably be very difficult anyway.

Then there's also the possibility that it's coupled into the video somewhere. I wouldn't even venture to guess in that situation. It's such a late-game set with so many ICs and such a complicated arrangement. Beyond what I currently can parse in a reasonable amount of time. I'd have to study it for weeks to figure out how it all works, and that's just step one in tracking something down. In cases like this, I usually end up soldering wires to the underside of the PCB and scoping all the waveforms while the set is running to look for something wrong. And that's another thing, you need an on-spec signal generator to produce the correct test patterns to even get valid scope results.

In any case, if you want to try poking around at the caps in the horizontal area to see if anything is obviously out of spec, this is where it is generally. I put little red arrows on the HYOKE connections from the edge of the PCB.

Image
Wow. Great reply! I need to read up on much of this but I do really really appreciate taking the time to look into this a bit for me.
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vol.2
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Re: My CRT is slightly darker on the left

Post by vol.2 »

BLEEN wrote: Sun Jan 11, 2026 5:22 pm Wow. Great reply! I need to read up on much of this but I do really really appreciate taking the time to look into this a bit for me.
Np. Keep in mind that this is just one troubleshooting path to follow, and I'm not suggesting that it's either the only possible first step, or that it is guaranteed to result in a fix.

My general instinct with this is that you probably lack the equipment to fix this and you're probably better off leaving it alone. It's a fairly big lift to open that set up and pull all the components that could be causing an issue, and it doesn't seem like you have the test equipment to do the troubleshooting anyway.

I'm not saying that you shouldn't do it, but I would encourage you to reflect on how much time, energy and money you're willing to sink into such a project, especially if it very well might not get any better. If the problem is leaking in somewhere in the video, you could end up hunting forever.
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