Safe ways to clean controllers?

[Xan]

After cleaning a SCPH-1080 with ethanol wipes recently, I've noticed that most of the buttons creak slightly, and the motion when letting the finger go isn't fully smooth anymore, for lack of a better word. The other problem with this particular model is that the D-pad is extremely weak and tends to develop cracks from even the slightest hint of cleaning, and it can't be glued together either. No idea if any worthwile aftermarket replacement for the D-pad exists but that is something to keep in mind for anyone looking to buy one of these. The later models (Dualshock etc.) seem to have more durable D-pads though, but I'm not sure if they are compatible with the older model, the SCPH-1080 seems to have more travel (or it may be just my particular controller).

So I guess the alternatives are isopropyl (99% stuff for leaving no residue?) or simply tearing it apart and soaking everything in soap water, but I believe I did the latter in the past with another SCPH-1080 and had the exact same issue with the D-pad... is this creaking on plastics a known effect of using alcohol?

[PC Engine Fan X!]

I've never cleaned my official 1st-party PSX/PSOne controllers internally and they still work like a charm nevertheless (and yes, creaking issues persist depsite their old age). I still have a brand new NOS PSX Dual-Shock controller unopened in my gaming stash (when you still could buy 'em at the suggested MSRP of $34.99 back in the day).

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The Sony branded Dual-Shock 2 controllers are backwards compatible with the PSX/PSOne consoles indeed -- another point to take into consideration, especially nowadays.
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PC Engine Fan X! ^_~

[GojiFan90]

I would not recommend using isopropyl alcohol for regular cleaning of plastics, it is very harsh. I would instead use fragrance/dye free Clorox wipes or "electronics wipes" like those made by Endust and others. I only use alcohol if I need to remove really stubborn grime or staining on plastics as it completely strips the plastic and can cause discoloration. It's good for cleaning brass contacts/PCBs etc. but is overkill for general use cleaning IMO.

[Xan]

I've never cleaned my official 1st-party PSX/PSOne controllers internally and they still work like a charm nevertheless (and yes, creaking issues persist depsite their old age). I still have a brand new NOS PSX Dual-Shock controller unopened in my gaming stash (when you still could buy 'em at the suggested MSRP of $34.99 back in the day).

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The Sony branded Dual-Shock 2 controllers are backwards compatible with the PSX/PSOne consoles indeed -- another point to take into consideration, especially nowadays.
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PC Engine Fan X! ^_~

I don't find a need to clean anything I bought originally new either, but some of the stuff you get from the used market is a different story, to put it that way.

And yes, DS2 controllers are an option to replace a Dualshock, especially as the rubber on the Dualshock is very weak and peels over time (the DS2/3 rubber has its own issues though). Thing is, the sticks don't match the old ones, being more firm and not as loose, and the squishy buttons with useless analog function are a matter of taste when it comes to PS1 games. Personally, I kind of like the SCPH-1080 for knowing that every button actually does something and not having those analog sticks take up space in the middle while a ton of games didn't even use them.

[PC Engine Fan X!]

Here's a speciality game controller wipes to clean "second-hand" gaming controllers that was mentioned on Retro RGB's site: https://controller-wipez.com/ It's $19.99 usd for 50 individual sealed wipes per box with if lasting upwards of 2 to 3 years intact if unopened. You can even use the game controller wipes with dirty & unkempt PC keyboards on laptops, netbooks, 2-in-1 laptop/tablet hybrids, Chromebooks & dedicated PC keyboards to get 'em super clean as well.

PC Engine Fan X! ^_~

[Xan]

That's interesting, but with 70% IPA there is typically some white residue that's kind of like no-clean flux residue, from my experience, so I'm wondering if that could be an issue here as well.

Incidentally I was just playing a D-pad only game on the PS2 using my DS2 controller bought new in 2013 or something, and I've noticed that it takes so much pressure to use that D-pad that I can feel it in my thumb even a day after, which is not an issue I've ever had with any PS1 pad. So actually I would say that the official DS2 controller is not a good replacement for PS1 controllers at all.

[BONKERS]

IPA shouldn't harm the majority of plastics used in controllers TBH. Ethanol definitely will affect ABS.
An ultrasonic cleaner may be a worthwhile investment. Even only a small one. You can just use Water,Glycerin(Optional. US waves travel through glycerin better than water) and some dish soap or other less harsh detergents.

If they creak after cleaning, likely from the Alcohol pulling any residual moisture out of the plastic. I have a Power A Switch GCN controller I use frequently and the sticks started making a creaking/grinding noise recently when moving it. A bit of silicone lube (the kind in liquid form) I had decanted into a small bottle for precise applications. Creak be gone when enough was worked in.


IIRC if the Playstation Classic version of this controller has identical buttons or not, if it does I have one I can use to potentially make new D-Pads out of Epoxy or Polyurethane.

[ldeveraux]

but with 70% IPA there is typically some white residue that's kind of like no-clean flux residue, from my experience, so I'm wondering if that could be an issue here as well.

If you use a quality IPA, there should be no noticeable residue, detectible only in the ppb.

[Xan]

I now have this Saturn controller that probably had some lemonade or something spilled onto parts of it. Already took it apart, cleaned it using mostly isopropyl, but soap&water for the buttons, and that improved the most affected buttons, but the problem is the right shoulder button microswitch doesn't work properly. Didn't work at all before, works intermittently now after popping the round part off and back on again. That switch is also a bit creaky if paying close attention.

Dpad works alright, kind of weird noises from it at times though. I'm not entirely sure if this is from the membrane or the plastics. A bit hard to clean that part since it's basically fixed to the upper part of the controller. Of course I have a Model 2 PAL Saturn controller in great condition, no dpad noises, much more precise pressure points on the buttons, but you know, the OCD thing of wanting to use a nice grey Saturn controller with the Model 1 Japanese system...

I see three options of what else to do with this thing:

1. WD-40 specialist contact cleaner (not regular WD-40). Degreasing, leaves no residue and is supposed to be safe for most plastics. Seems pretty well rated. Could even be worth a try for the dpad?

2. Some other plastic safe contact cleaner, but with lubricating properties. Seen some mixed opinions on this, even though one would think it could seem even better for things like microswitches and edge connectors.

3. Just put a bit of IPA into the switch. Would be the cheapest option since all I'd have to get is a small pipette, and I guess try even more IPA on the dpad or try if silicone spray improves the feel/noises.

A chance that the microswitch has a mechanical fault, but I think it's well worth to try and clean it first.

[NoAffinity]

I'm all for the tactile satisfaction of using original and matching hardware. But at some point (for me at least, usually later than I should have asked myself) the question has to be asked on these things: how much time and money am I willing to invest in attempting to restore/repair something or cut bait and buy a working version of the thing that will satisfy my tactile itch (or not spend any more time and money, and settle for a lesser solution)?

Again, I'm all for restoring and repairing, as long as it makes sense. At $20 - $30 for these controllers from ebay, Etsy, etc, I wonder where that line gets drawn on this project?

[Xan]

Fair, but I would say that your $20-30 replacement from ebay may or may not be in the same type of condition that this JP Saturn pad was in. With bulk sales you don't even see the visual condition at all before buying. Then consider much more expensive controllers, like the 3D Saturn pad...

If you are talking about 3rd party replacements, I am aware that Retro-bit got the Sega license and those pads seem to be fairly well regarded apart from the shoulder buttons feeling different. It would cost me over twice as much as two used original pads, as I only see the wireless version for sale outside the US, though. For anyone in the US the regular wired version with the Saturn port is certainly something to consider for just $20.

[NoAffinity]

Agreed, the consideration changes for something more expensive like the 3d controller, but then again, the risks of being unable to recover from something like a lemonade spill also increase. And while you dont know the condition of what you'll be getting, it probably hasnt been subjected to lemonade. Something listed as working and tested i would expect could be pulled apart easily and given the ipa treatment to good result.

[Xan]

That controller looked clean visually, seller didn't mention anything about sticky buttons or a faulty shoulder button, you just never know for sure until you actually use it or open it. The sticky buttons I did fix with a soap wash on the buttons+IPA on the casing, only traces were on the outer membrane. Still, the buttons just don't feel as good as on my PAL Model 2 controller, and I'm unsure why. Is it just wear on the membrane, did anything seep into the button plastic and change it or did Sega actually improve the controllers later on? The pressure points on the buttons also seem to change every time I put the thing back together.

As for that shoulder button, I suspect it's not fixable. I already flushed it several times with 99% IPA, didn't fix the issue. I now also flushed it with contact cleaner for good measure, didn't give it a final test yet, but I don't expect much. Probably only soldering a replacement switch from Aliexpress would be a way forward, which may also feel different than the original one.

[Xan]

To my surprise, the contact cleaner did actually fix the problem. Waited a couple days for it to dry completely as moisture helps contact, which was visible on the multimeter during cleaning. Even a fully working switch shows tens of ohms when pressed, which goes down to 1 ohm if the switch is flooded. Only thing is I can tell the switch is a bit less firm after the ordeal, with a slightly duller clicking sound, but it's good enough now. Could have checked if the spring is symmetrical...

I used the WD-40 specialist cleaner. Didn't even like it at first, because it seems to have a considerable amount of water (takes a while to dry) and does leave a very slight residue. But looks like contact cleaner is the way to go if there is an oxidation layer that IPA can't remove, despite the warning on it to not spray it into enclosed spaces where it can't dry properly...

[PC Engine Fan X!]

The Retro-Bit wireless Sega Saturn controller is awesome in not having to deal with wires whatsoever -- if the wireless SS controller dongle doesn't receive any wireless input, it'll "go to sleep" (after a certain amount of time has passed) and "wake up" upon the wireless controller being activated again. Easy as pie. The wireless SS controller is charged up via USB-C interface/cord and lasts for a good amount of time before needing to be charged up again.

PC Engine Fan X! ^_~

[Hoagtech]

My priority in cleaning a controller is the button pads. I like to wipe them with iso and wipe them on a piece of printer paper.

I find the silt cleaning under the surface of the pad is more important than the contact beneath it in most cases unless there’s corrosion present.

If you’re getting creaking. Your plastic is dried out from your cleaning method. I like to de-oxidize buttons and plastic with white lithium grease before placement in reassembly.

[Xan]

I have seen graphite being mentioned a lot. Just getting a soft pencil and applying it to the buttons that need it. Anyone tried that? The concern being of course that it's conductive, though the chances that it will bridge anything seem small, but still.

Also, q-tips: will not be using them for anything going forward, they leave way too much lint. I have some microfiber ones that I'll try sometime, but there is probably an ESD concern for using them on PCBs. So for connector cleaning I'll just spray contact cleaner if the need arises.