I’m having a problem with my RGB connections on a Japanese Megadrive. It’s a bit weird because I’m not sure what the problem is.
If I plug in a standard composite cable, it’s fine (first in the picture set), but if I plug in an RGB scart or Component, both 8 pins, the picture won’t sync or stay stable, it rolls all over, is blue mostly, and if I’m not actively holding the connector in the socket, it will eventually de-sync completely and leave me with a blank screen. Now, the fact it feels like the RGB doesn’t quite go in all the way and needs active pressure to see even a rolling image makes me think the MD internal connector has possibly been replaced with one that maybe doesn’t fit the 8 pins? Can someone with eagle eyes take a look at these pics and help me figure it out?
jd213 wrote: ↑Sun Nov 24, 2024 2:11 pm
If you're seeing the same problem with different cables, it might be a bad solder joint on the connector.
I am seeing the same problem on both RGB cables, SCART and component. However with the regular composite cable it works fine.
The composite cable still needs to be fully inserted to get a stable picture, but it just feels like for some reason the 8 pin RGB connectors struggle to fully go into the socket. It almost feels like they’re being pushed out - despite the pins being correct.
Konsolkongen wrote: ↑Sun Nov 24, 2024 2:32 pm
Could just be bad 8 pin din plugs. Most of them are terrible, I have also had a lot of connection issues with my MD1 using cheap connectors.
If you can solder, and can find Hirschmann 8 pin din 262 connector I would suggest trying that instead. It solved all my issues with bad connections
That might be a good idea. What kind of connection problems were you having prior?
Sure its actually an MD cable? 8pin din exists in two connector types. MD uses "U" type, while NeoGeo use "C" type. A lot of cheapo cables will use just one type and sell the same cable for both systems.
Edit: Looking at op's pics I think the cable is correct U type, but the socket appears to have been replaced with C type. Sega never sold MD RGB cables, so maybe this unit was modded to use NeoGeo cables.
Actually, MSX2 used 8pin C type RGB cables. MSX cables were very common, and the pinout is different from Neo/MD. Since you seem to have color/sync issues, my guess is that your MD was modded to use MSX cables, but just a guess.
SuperDeadite wrote: ↑Mon Nov 25, 2024 4:14 am
Sure its actually an MD cable? 8pin din exists in two connector types. MD uses "U" type, while NeoGeo use "C" type. A lot of cheapo cables will use just one type and sell the same cable for both systems.
Edit: Looking at op's pics I think the cable is correct U type, but the socket appears to have been replaced with C type. Sega never sold MD RGB cables, so maybe this unit was modded to use NeoGeo cables.
Actually, MSX2 used 8pin C type RGB cables. MSX cables were very common, and the pinout is different from Neo/MD. Since you seem to have color/sync issues, my guess is that your MD was modded to use MSX cables, but just a guess.
It's definitely a U type cable, it was sold as an MD1 cable specifically. But as for the MD connector, you think it looks like a type C? Would that correlate with the composite input working but the Scart not?
Are MSX and Neo Geo Type C cables interchangeable? I can purchase one to try.
SuperDeadite wrote: ↑Mon Nov 25, 2024 4:14 am
Sure its actually an MD cable? 8pin din exists in two connector types. MD uses "U" type, while NeoGeo use "C" type. A lot of cheapo cables will use just one type and sell the same cable for both systems.
Edit: Looking at op's pics I think the cable is correct U type, but the socket appears to have been replaced with C type. Sega never sold MD RGB cables, so maybe this unit was modded to use NeoGeo cables.
Actually, MSX2 used 8pin C type RGB cables. MSX cables were very common, and the pinout is different from Neo/MD. Since you seem to have color/sync issues, my guess is that your MD was modded to use MSX cables, but just a guess.
It's definitely a U type cable, it was sold as an MD1 cable specifically. But as for the MD connector, you think it looks like a type C? Would that correlate with the composite input working but the Scart not?
Are MSX and Neo Geo Type C cables interchangeable? I can purchase one to try.
From your pic, the socket looks like a C type to me. That would explain why the U type MD rgb cable doesn't feel "locked in."
NeoGeo and MSX pinouts are different. For example Composite Sync on NeoGeo = Green on MSX. This could explain your rolling picture issue. In the end I'm just making educated guess though.
jd213 wrote: ↑Sun Nov 24, 2024 2:11 pm
If you're seeing the same problem with different cables, it might be a bad solder joint on the connector.
I am seeing the same problem on both RGB cables, SCART and component. However with the regular composite cable it works fine.
A composite cable mostly uses different pins than RGB (and component is just converted from RGB), so it's still possible that an internal problem only affects the latter.
But if you don't want to open up the console to check, then I guess you'll have to buy another cable or send everything off to be repaired.
Just weighing in with another opinion here but from your photo it does seem like a C-type connector, and it even looks like the top two holes show signs of damage from having a U-type cable pushed into them?
Kez wrote: ↑Tue Nov 26, 2024 1:30 pm
Just weighing in with another opinion here but from your photo it does seem like a C-type connector, and it even looks like the top two holes show signs of damage from having a U-type cable pushed into them?
Yeah that would be me fiddling with it trying to get it to sync probably.
I appreciate your help. Would you suggest opening it up and replacing the connector port for the standard U type or just buying the appropriate lead for the C type?
Re: going the lead replacement route, I’m still a little unsure of whether I want a Neo Geo compatible RGB lead or an MSX, based on what’s been said.
Kez wrote: ↑Tue Nov 26, 2024 1:30 pm
Just weighing in with another opinion here but from your photo it does seem like a C-type connector, and it even looks like the top two holes show signs of damage from having a U-type cable pushed into them?
Yeah that would be me fiddling with it trying to get it to sync probably.
I appreciate your help. Would you suggest opening it up and replacing the connector port for the standard U type or just buying the appropriate lead for the C type?
Re: going the lead replacement route, I’m still a little unsure of whether I want a Neo Geo compatible RGB lead or an MSX, based on what’s been said.
MegaDrive and NeoGeo have exactly the same pinout, just MD used U type, while Neo used C type. If you ever got a stable picture when you jammed the cable in, it's Neo pinout.
MSX uses C type, but pinout is totally different, so rolling picture and loss of colors would be the result of an MD cable being used. Based on your symptoms, I'd bet on MSX.
MSX cables were by far the most common in Japan. Micomsoft's XMD-1 was just a pinout changer to use MSX cables on MD. (XMD-2 added Svideo encoder). So the idea of someone in Japan modding MD to use MSX cables is not so far-fetched.
Sounds like your appraisal is correct. I only get a stable picture with the U type composite cable, but the RGB rolls, struggles to fit, and shows blue most of the time. So I suppose I either swap out the internal connector or go for an MSX C cable. I appreciate your help (all of you!)
Skykid wrote: ↑Wed Nov 27, 2024 4:42 am
Re: going the lead replacement route, I’m still a little unsure of whether I want a Neo Geo compatible RGB lead or an MSX, based on what’s been said.
You should be able to investigate the board and figure out what goes where, in your picture of the connector it seems like there is hot glue behind it - I don't think that is what it looks like stock? Could be wrong there but certainly implies it has been modded. Some pictures of the whole board and the area around that connector (above and below) would be helpful in figuring out what's going on. Best thing would be to poke around with a multimeter though to be certain what each pin is doing!
