Component Video mod for curved screen Sony Trinitrons

[Bard_the_Bowman]

does polarity of the resistor matter.

No.

would daisy chaining the termination resistors cause this?

By this I assume you mean the fact that your termination resistors all ground to the same wire? No. That shouldn't be a problem.


Also, I doubt it has anything to do with the issue, but what is the third wire on your blanking switch?

[Ramzelle]

4th pic, the wires are not soldered in on this pic I forgot to take the image but are soldered to the far leg of each cap as to filter through before going to the jungle chip. all but 1 solder joint was done on the top side of the board. Pulled power from the bottom side of the micon pin 46 because of an RF Shield. C375 was already empty and unbridged on my model so I couldnt remove that to improve brightness. If you want I can get a pic of the bottom and top side if itll help

the only thing I can think of is to cut the Pb Resistor in half to increase brightness but that might only fix my blue issue. I could try to sync to the front Svideo port but not sure if that change a damn thing.

Third wire is ground, I assumed i should ground it just in case of internal short

[Bard_the_Bowman]

4th pic, the wires are not soldered in on this pic I forgot to take the image but are soldered to the far leg of each cap as to filter through before going to the jungle chip. all but 1 solder joint was done on the top side of the board. Pulled power from the bottom side of the micon pin 46 because of an RF Shield. C375 was already empty and unbridged on my model so I couldnt remove that to improve brightness. If you want I can get a pic of the bottom and top side if itll help

the only thing I can think of is to cut the Pb Resistor in half to increase brightness but that might only fix my blue issue. I could try to sync to the front Svideo port but not sure if that change a damn thing.

Third wire is ground, I assumed i should ground it just in case of internal short

Have you removed R358/R359/R360 (if present)? [DISREGARD, STUPID QUESTION I just looked at pic no. 4 and they clearly aren't there]

Also did you add the caps in pic no. 4 or were those already present? The reason I ask is that I just want to double check they actually are 0.01 uf and not some wildly different capacitance. I looked up the service manual for your unit and I can't find those caps, so I'm not sure what the default value would be.

And to expand on my last question, if C360/361/362 were NOT populated from the factory (which I'm guessing MIGHT be the case since I can find no reference to them in your service manual), were there jumpers at JR351 and JR352?

I'm just thinking that we've got to be missing something in that area.

[Ramzelle]

Also did you add the caps in pic no. 4 or were those already present? The reason I ask is that I just want to double check they actually are 0.01 uf and not some wildly different capacitance. I looked up the service manual for your unit and I can't find those caps, so I'm not sure what the default value would be.

Added the caps myself

And to expand on my last question, if C360/361/362 were NOT populated from the factory (which I'm guessing MIGHT be the case since I can find no reference to them in your service manual), were there jumpers at JR351 and JR352?

no jumpers were removed just the resistors

Image shows all the work that I did
https://imgur.com/a/ktkdJxH

[Bard_the_Bowman]

Also did you add the caps in pic no. 4 or were those already present? The reason I ask is that I just want to double check they actually are 0.01 uf and not some wildly different capacitance. I looked up the service manual for your unit and I can't find those caps, so I'm not sure what the default value would be.

Added the caps myself

And to expand on my last question, if C360/361/362 were NOT populated from the factory (which I'm guessing MIGHT be the case since I can find no reference to them in your service manual), were there jumpers at JR351 and JR352?

no jumpers were removed just the resistors

Image shows all the work that I did
https://imgur.com/a/ktkdJxH

I doubt it's the jumpers cause if it had them, and you hadn't removed them, the signals would be shorted and you'd have a profoundly messed up image I would think. And I also don't see them listed in your service manual. But it MIGHT be worth double checking if all else fails. They're little surface-mount chips on the underside of the board.

Looking at your picture, it looks to me like you have the luma wire connected to the chroma pin of the S-Video. Is that how you actually wired it IRL or is that a mistake in the diagram?

[matt]

So I did so more trouble shooting on my AA-2D tonight. I found that when I switched back to composite my colors and brightness came back and the Tube wasn't as worn as I thought it was. Re-Tuning the Screen for composite I found that the image was fairly crisp and not blurry and I believe a lot of my issues have been from trying to compensate for the loss of color and brightness in my Component mod. It sound like my version of the AA-2D is slightly different than Bowmans since I did not have a cap in the same spot as him but overall they should be fairly similar.

I am trying to figure what I should look for to try and trouble shoot all this brightness and color loss. would too many ohms on a resistor, or a diode or some cap be pulling voltage and causing my issues. I am obviously not formally trained in small electronics but if I have something to go on I could try to investigate further and maybe cut an unimportant trace or something along those lines.

It sounds like you may have some components left in circuit. Did you disconnect everything from the PIP circuit?

[Ramzelle]

It sounds like you may have some components left in circuit. Did you disconnect everything from the PIP circuit?

I believe so, I removed the resistors and the pip circuit board has been removed. according to the research I did that was everything that needed to be removed ill pull the board and take some photos. maybe I missed something that is specific to this model. I tried to look at the service manual and previously posted a picture of the svideo circuit but personally couldn't see if there was anything that I forgot in circuit.

Do I need to remove R1352 for the blanking line. that's all I can see that might be interfering but that's just blanking.

I don't know maybe this set is a dud.

Spoiler

[matt]

Yes, I think that'd work. Something must be off but I couldn't say what it is.

[Ramzelle]

Checked last night, nothing was left in circuit, the JR352 and JR351 were both already empty, I checked the removed resister sockets with a multimeter and there was no continuity.
There was one mistake and which was grounding the Y & Pb signal was not soldered but after soldering and checking for continuity the screen honestly looked the same.

Ill try removing the blanking resistor tonight and going straight in.

I reduced the Resisters to 47ohms on the Pr and Pb signals and both got darker, is this the intended behavior? If so I think I am going to try 150ohms to boost the signal tonight. maybe 220ohms

[Ramzelle]

Aight boys I am happy to say that I am officially done with this Mod.

I ended up trying out a whole lot of different termination resistor setups probably tried 6 different layouts funnily enough ended up going with a pretty basic one that is really close to the suggested Layout.
Y - 75ohms - (Default in circuit)
Pb - 120 ohms
Pr - 75 ohms

I had originally added an extra 47 ohms to Y, set Pb to 150 ohms and PB to 120ohms. Not ganna lie it looked pretty cool but super over saturated.

After a while swapping resistors I ended up with the above setup. 120 ohms on the Pb line was enough to boost the blue signal into a range that I could calibrate the colors in. The Tube is still a bit worn and a little fuzzy in its old age but its as bright and clear as my WEGAs and not washed out anymore.
Not sure what the long term negative effects of essentially overvolting (at least in my eyes) the signal is but for now I'm going to enjoy the set. Maybe its a reliable solution if others find there colors being nuked by this mod but please do it at your own risk who knows what issues it may cause in the future.

Thanks everyone who pitched in to help me figure this shit out!

https://imgur.com/a/WTy2Lzb