JVC TM-H and DT-V thread

[charlizardon]

Now I'm wondering if it can also fix the flagging issues the PC Engine seems to have with this monitor? I would test it if I had one, but I don't

I have a Duo and just did some testing. The RGB2COMP does nothing to prevent flagging (on its own), but I can assure you that an RGB interface outputting RGBHV takes care of the problem.

[Anonygoose]

Hello friends

Need your input on this fix I accidentally discovered for the horrible horizontal linearity on the DTV monitors.

I am talking about what we all suffer from which is the left side of the screen is wider than the right, resulting in wobble and distortion when H scroll.

Long story short (maybe not so short), I had a 1710CG with a bad flyback and a dead tube, and a good 1900CG tube with a good flyback but bad main board that I couldn't fix.

Both main boards seem identical except for the flyback, a film cap and diode on the main board in the deflection circuit, and unpopulated cap on the S. Correction board.

So I swapped the flyback from the 1900 to the 1710, as well as the S. Correction board and the film cap and diode mentioned in the picture below. Resulted in a near perfect H-Lin.

While I thought the S. Correction board was the culprit for bad H-Lin, eventually I needed to put back the 1710 S. Board as the 19 one had issues. When I did that the H-Lin remained fixed.

Please have a look at the picture below and let me know your thoughts.

Would like someone technical to explain what the purpose of the cap is, and how much of a role does the flyback play in this scenario and the H-Lin fix.

Would like to also know if this can be applied to a 1910CG where a higher pF cap can used to also fix H-Lin there.

Many thanks

https://imgur.com/a/jaQz1ls

[atohmdiy]

I have a TM-H1900G that is new old stock, the tube have around 200 hours. I mod it for RGB but even if the image is pretty good, this bloody linearity problem on the left force me to put it storage. From what i read here and there, all these monitor have this issue. JVC just didn't care.

For some times i hunted for a Panasonic tube as i heard they have excellent geometry and linearity.
I found an Olympus OEV 201 (same as the Panasonic MT-M1980) and i can confirm their reputation. It's funny considering how simple this monitor is, there is absolutely nothing to adjust the geometry or linearity, no trimpot and such. This thing is a masterpiece of simplicity and efficiency.
JVC should have kept Panasonic instead of doing their own stuff

But i really would like to find a way to correct the issue, because except that this monitor is very good and it's nos. I have a friend that is an electronic engineer, we tried to dig the schematic a little but he doesn't know CRT too much so he couldn't helped me. If someone find a way to overcome this issue, i would gladly try it on mine, i'm sure many owner of these TM-H monitors would enjoy it.

[Pasky]

Oh yeah it's this

https://github.com/Adewotta/PicoSync

Will probably fix the issue

Interesting, I'm willing to give this a shot.

Getting all the parts for this Picosync device on Tuesday, will attempt to test it out this week and will post results. Really hope this fixes the flagging for most systems with the tv.

[jd213]

Hope it works out, I've got a couple arcade boards myself that have flagging issues on my 20L5 (which I've been putting off repairing), although they don't bother me too much.

[Pasky]

Oh yeah it's this

https://github.com/Adewotta/PicoSync

Will probably fix the issue

Interesting, I'm willing to give this a shot.

Getting all the parts for this Picosync device on Tuesday, will attempt to test it out this week and will post results. Really hope this fixes the flagging for most systems with the tv.

Happy to report that the PicoSync device fixed the flagging for me on every system I've tried so far (Taito F3/CPS1/CPS2/PGM/snes/nes/genesis/tg16/pce).

Cheers for the one that suggested it.

EDIT:

I should mention that the sync straight from my misterFPGA/consoles/supergun does not work with the device and I recieve a black screen. I'm running the input for the PicoSync from the output of my extron SC210 and the output of the PicoSync to the television. I imagine any sort sync leveler like an lm1881 would work fine in place of the SC210.

[fernan1234]

Nice. Thanks for confirming. I'm not able to build a Picosync myself so if anyone ever gets in the mood to build a few and sell them out, let me know!

[Pasky]

Nice. Thanks for confirming. I'm not able to build a Picosync myself so if anyone ever gets in the mood to build a few and sell them out, let me know!

You could set this up yourself easily without any soldering skills using BNC breakouts and some jumper wires. Both around $10 on amazon. I bought the Rasperry Pico's off ebay for $3

[fernan1234]

You could set this up yourself easily without any soldering skills using BNC breakouts and some jumper wires. Both around $10 on amazon. I bought the Rasperry Pico's off ebay for $3

Oh didn't realize it, could definitely do this. Thanks for the tip!

[Pasky]

You could set this up yourself easily without any soldering skills using BNC breakouts and some jumper wires. Both around $10 on amazon. I bought the Rasperry Pico's off ebay for $3

Oh didn't realize it, could definitely do this. Thanks for the tip!

Sure no problem, if you buy off ebay be sure to buy the appropriate power supply for it. There was an ebay seller selling the pico's with a usb C type plug which was perfect for me. JUst picked up a 3.5A usb C power supply for the rapserry pi 4 which worked perfect.

Extremely satisfied with this solution considering how small the Pico's are.

[Betonmischer]

So, I want to do a proper calibration on my DT-V1710CG as per the service manual. I have all the required tools, except for the signal generator. The manual explicitly calls for a component 1080i/60 input. Moreover, at certain steps only the Y signal has to be connected. But I don't have any device that would output component of this resolution, let alone a real signal generator. I wonder if I could use the DCI input instead, which I already have connected to a computer via an HDMI to SDI converter.

[fernan1234]

So, I want to do a proper calibration on my DT-V1710CG as per the service manual. I have all the required tools, except for the signal generator. The manual explicitly calls for a component 1080i/60 input. Moreover, at certain steps only the Y signal has to be connected. But I don't have any device that would output component of this resolution, let alone a real signal generator. I wonder if I could use the DCI input instead, which I already have connected to a computer via an HDMI to SDI converter.

You can calibrate with anything that produces a reliable signal. I wouldn't overthink it and just go with something like an Xbox360 or a PS3 outputting 1080i paired with a good DAC (ideally one that has been measured to be fairly accurate, but anything that seems to not bias colors in an obvious way or crush blacks should be fine).

[Pasky]

Was toying around with the JVC using the Mister and noticed some posts about a bouncing screen using the PS1. Tried it out and my TV does it as well. What's causing it? I notice it only seems to happen during certain screens, such as the PS1's bios bootup and menu and some in-game menu's like title screens, but then also goes away. I'm assuming it's because it's happening only during a certain resolution or something. Any known fixes?

[Betonmischer]

You can calibrate with anything that produces a reliable signal. I wouldn't overthink it and just go with something like an Xbox360 or a PS3 outputting 1080i paired with a good DAC (ideally one that has been measured to be fairly accurate, but anything that seems to not bias colors in an obvious way or crush blacks should be fine).

Thanks. I think I'm gonna try some of the old graphics cards I have which are supposed to have a YPbPr out with breakout cables.

[coderkind]

Was toying around with the JVC using the Mister and noticed some posts about a bouncing screen using the PS1. Tried it out and my TV does it as well. What's causing it? I notice it only seems to happen during certain screens, such as the PS1's bios bootup and menu and some in-game menu's like title screens, but then also goes away. I'm assuming it's because it's happening only during a certain resolution or something. Any known fixes?

Try Ninja Baseball Batman on the JVC; curls up a lot at the top of the screen for me via a MiSTer outputting component into a JVC TM-H.

Reading this thread with interest, as it occurs for a fair few arcade cores.

[shano]

Hey guys when calibrating my TM-H150CG I noticed the left half of the tube was diimer than the right by about 30 nits or so. I'm guessing maybe a cap going bad somewhere? Any ideas on where to look to diagnose? Thanks.

[Buffi]

I tried connecting a PS1 and another PS2, and it was the same. The whole image is wavy on RGB, And the on screen menu is perfectly still. If the monitor would be damaged, shouldn't the whole screen be affected?

There is one more thing that I noticed today. When there is no signal on the RGB line, the monitor does a clicking sound every two seconds. It's the same click, like when the monitor is degaussing.

I'm gonna reply to a post from almost 10 years ago, but this is what comes up when I google JVC DT-V Wavy so... yeah, hope this helps someone.

I had a original RGB/Component card in Slot2 and a clone Scart card in Slot3. Slot2 had slightly wavy picture on RGB.

Removing the clone SCART card from Slot3 removes the waviness. So uh... if you experience this issue, try removing cards from other slots. Super weird and a bit cursed, but picture is looking great now.

[Namingway_PL]

@Buffi Wow! That was really a long time ago but thanks for Your reply!

It turned out that it was not an issue with this particular unit but just the infamous "wobble". It wass my first DT-V when I made this post so didn't know about this back then. There are workarounds for this fortunately. Recently found out that The MiSTer FPGA in direct video mode gets along with the DT-V really good. I have it hooked up with the direct video cable that I got from ultimatemister.com in RGBS and get a rock solid image HDfury 3 works as well.

[RBG4u]

Hello everyone! JVC DT-V1710CG, in 720p and 1080i modes the image on the left is cut off for some reason (photo attached: https://imgur.com/a/NfUw6ea). Has anyone encountered this? Are there any options to fix it?

[Namingway_PL]

Hello everyone! JVC DT-V1710CG, in 720p and 1080i modes the image on the left is cut off for some reason (photo attached: https://imgur.com/a/NfUw6ea). Has anyone encountered this? Are there any options to fix it?

How is it cut? Are You sure its not the YT video that is cut? as it sure look like it. I can clearly see the YT buttons on the left of the so called cut.

[mimylovesjapan]

Interesting, I'm willing to give this a shot.

Getting all the parts for this Picosync device on Tuesday, will attempt to test it out this week and will post results. Really hope this fixes the flagging for most systems with the tv.

Happy to report that the PicoSync device fixed the flagging for me on every system I've tried so far (Taito F3/CPS1/CPS2/PGM/snes/nes/genesis/tg16/pce).

Cheers for the one that suggested it.

EDIT:

I should mention that the sync straight from my misterFPGA/consoles/supergun does not work with the device and I recieve a black screen. I'm running the input for the PicoSync from the output of my extron SC210 and the output of the PicoSync to the television. I imagine any sort sync leveler like an lm1881 would work fine in place of the SC210.

Hi ! I am trying to learn about things since I get a JVC monitor last week ! The PicoSync seems to be a great way for compatibility !
I tried to understand the website speaking about it, but I don’t understand well how works a rasberry… If you have some time, some day, it would be great to make an easy tutorial to make it !
Thanks again for testing it !

[mimylovesjapan]

Get my monitor yesterday !
Perfectly working, with only 2800h, no burn or color/geometry distortion !
Very happy.
The anti glare layer on the screen is a little bit damaged some place. Don't mind it for now, but I would like to know if it so is bad to wash it completly (an remove de coat). How many people here has still the coat here ? I thinking of doing it in the future, to have a uniform screen.

[fernan1234]

The anti glare layer on the screen is a little bit damaged some place. Don't mind it for now, but I would like to know if it so is bad to wash it completly (an remove de coat). How many people here has still the coat here ? I thinking of doing it in the future, to have a uniform screen.

If the damage is small enough that you can ignore it most of the time during regular use, you may want to consider leaving it on. If it is too much and gets distracting during use, then removing the film is an option, but keep in mind you'll then need to use the monitor in a dark room or at least well controlled ambient light room.

For your question about sync, as long as you don't encounter any issues don't worry about it.

[mimylovesjapan]

Thank you for your explanations !
For now i will let it as it.
Just to know, without the coating, the screen would be similar to a regular PVM ? (I have a 14L1)

[mimylovesjapan]

I am trying to connect my PS3 to the monitor : PS3 -> HDMI 720p -> HDMI-SDI converter (BlackMagic) -> Monitor.
I have a Black screen, with syncro OK (720p/60 written on the screen)

[fernan1234]

I am trying to connect my PS3 to the monitor : PS3 -> HDMI 720p -> HDMI-SDI converter (BlackMagic) -> Monitor.
I have a Black screen, with syncro OK (720p/60 written on the screen)

Probably because of the PS3's HDCP protection, but don't do SDI. Get an HDMI-to-VGA converter, just make sure it's one of those that "strips" HDCP (otherwise you may also need to get an HDMI splitter that does this and put it before the HDMI-VGA converter). The converter will output RGBHV, which fortunately works great without the need to combine sync with this monitor. You will simply need a VGA to 5-BNC cable which is also easy to find and usually of good quality. (Alternatively, you can use an HDMI-to-Component converter.)

Also, set the PS3 to 1080i. Most games will only do 720p anyway, but for those that support 1080i the picture will look better on this monitor (and in HD-capable CRTs in general).

[mimylovesjapan]

Thanks ! I will try that.
But just to ask : what is the avantage to use RGBHV instead of HDSDI for 720p or 1080i sources ?

[mimylovesjapan]

As the Video/S-video board is quite rare, I am searching for an other option. What would be the best for video/S-video ?
1. analog to SDI converter -> SD SDI board ?
2. S-video/video to RGB converter -> RGB board ?

[fernan1234]

But just to ask : what is the avantage to use RGBHV instead of HDSDI for 720p or 1080i sources ?

HDMI-SDI converters are typically laggy, and they also often compress colors or have other artifacting issues. Some digital to analog converters can have their own issues (such as crushed blacks) but they are super cheap and you can burn through a few and soon enough find a good one.

1. analog to SDI converter -> SD SDI board ?
2. S-video/video to RGB converter -> RGB board ?

Again, stay away from SDI, even more so in this case which involves transcoding. S/video to RGB (or YPbPr) converter will be the way to go, though these can be tricky to find especially with support for 240p. Before getting a board (or for systems like PCE that have issues with the board), my solution was using a tink2X Pro or multiformat in passthrough mode connected to an hdmi to vga converter. If you happen to have one, an ossc pro with the av add on board would work too, and I think the tink5x can also do passthrough output now. There's also the tink4k but that would be overkill lol

[mimylovesjapan]

Thank you for your help !
If i use a RetroTINK 2x to a HDMI - RGB comverter, will it kkept the 480i during all the chain to the TV ? Will it introduce lag ?