N64 Tim RGB mod issue

[VEGETA]

Hello

I tried doing the mod for N64 Japanese Pikachu edition, it worked at first but then I noticed the picture had issues like broken graphics and so on which indicated a problem in little ribbon cable being loose or not tightly connected.

I removed it and the console produced perfect picture via composite.

I kept soldering and desoldering the ribbon until i broken a trace (i guess D0), and such fine pitch soldering is not really a thing I love despite I've done it in the past.

now i need to fix the trace first then figure out how to do the mod.

I have very small wires, smaller than those supplied with the kit which can be soldered on DAC or RCP-NUS then delivered to the kit.

does anyone have a schematic i can follow to get the required signals from elsewhere than the DAC? since the dac pads and traces might not be at best condition even before my mod work.

I found this schematic but don't know if it is good or not: https://wiki.console5.com/tw/images/a/a ... CPU-03.pdf

what do you suggest I do?

PICTURES: https://imgur.com/a/saLSjcw

[VEGETA]

I tried today and it worked after cleaning and soldering.

unfortunately, just about i was closing it the heat did remove the leg of the DAC chip + the ribbon.

Now it really needs a replacement ribbon + preferably new DAC to restore composite video.

do you guys know any professional modder and repair guy I can send the device for him to finish the job and fix it?

I already messaged David from Oldskool but still no response.

[VEGETA]

I solved the problem... by using my own wiring. used very tiny wires directly to the DAC pins, while 2 of them directly at the GPU since their traces were bad. then it worked flawlessly from first go.

the best thing I've done is using a sharp thin soldering tip instead of the standard "screw driver" type tip. flux certainly helps but soldering quality is a big factor since mine was bad (no better choice locally).

I lost composite video since 2 of DAC pins are not connected (D0 and D1) and one of these 2 pins is completely removed.... but I don't care since RGB is all I need.

going to release mod video soon.

[jd213]

Good job. Always satisfying to come back and fix your own mistakes after gaining more experience and/or confidence.

[VEGETA]

Good job. Always satisfying to come back and fix your own mistakes after gaining more experience and/or confidence.

Yes for sure... and it was super challenging due to very old console and tiny footprints.

this is the 2nd time I get such problem, first was my Twin Famicom. I broke 2 traces due to repeated soldering and desoldering (heat exposure)... I discovered that I don't have that gentle hand but now i am much better.

for this N64 RGB mod, my fix turned to be harder soldering than original method of ribbon cable but it got ok due to the usage of the small point tip. So next time I would start with it lol.

my advise for Tim is to include the full ribbon cable at once, so that people don't need to do the individual wiring either for big or small footprint editions. if I have to buy ribbon cable which you pay for it separately from the kit, then I might pay extra 5$ for a dedicated full length ribbon. screw ribbon cables forever!!!

Now the only consoles still need for mods in my setup are:

PSone -> will get mStation, currently it has a modchip installed inside.
Gamecube -> will solder Picoboot + SD2SP2\SDgeko... unless that SSD mod got the option to boot directly from SWISS and load games simultaneously (which they promised).
Saturn -> will get Satiator.
Neo Geo AES -> will consider doing RGB bypass but need to test more games to see if it needs it or not. only game i have is KOF94 on a CRT but I suspect it has some jailbars, need more verification. might design a board for it.