I used to have a white X3 that had this ringing issue. Turned me off from HD Fury DACs, especially since it's true that you can find cheap ones with some luck that perform without issues.Ikaruga11 wrote:Is the HD Fury X3 the same as the HD Fury 3? Same question with the HD Fury X4 and HD Fury 4. I ask because it says the HD Fury 3/4/3X/4X are some of the best DACs and they all seem to be used interchangably, but a test from JunkerHQ showed that the HD Fury 3 adds a ringing/halo effect to the image. Has this been fixed via firmware updates? Does anyone with an HD Fury X3 or X4 know if they have a slight ringing/halo effect around their converted image as well?
Questions that do not deserve a thread
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
The HDFury Nano GX is the one you want. Although, the OSSC Pro should eventually end all of this conversion bullshit by providing full ADC and DAC with low latency with an add on board. That day can't come soon enough.
We apologise for the inconvenience
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
I had HD Fury 2 and 3 and sold both of them. To be honest I forget exactly what was wrong with them (maybe I posted about it here in some forgotten post of mine...), but it was something about the funkiness of signals it wouldn't take on occasion, and me having to literally climb up a ladder to the top of my server rack to power cycle them to get them to work again... or some such similar annoyance to that.fernan1234 wrote: I used to have a white X3 that had this ringing issue. Turned me off from HD Fury DACs, especially since it's true that you can find cheap ones with some luck that perform without issues.
Switched to the super cheap Portta HDMI to VGA (for my one single HDMI system I actually use in my retro setup: Xbox 360 for Cave Shmups), and it just works. Honestly, when using a 20+ year old CRT's I could really care less if the R G or B shifts like 2%... I'm never, ever, going to notice that in real life. Don't see any dirt or ringing on that Portta or even my cheap (older version) Tendak I've used on occasion either - that one also just works and is/was dirt cheap as well.
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Sorry I've talked about doing something like this before, but anywho:
1200P vs 1440P??
I've been using my ol' TFT 1200P Samsung Syncmaster T260 monitor for MiSTer and am looking into upgrading my RetroTink 2X to a 5X pro some day.
Anywho, the MiSTer looks awesome on the 1920x1200P monitor. But it is old and I have to lean it up against a wall to use it in portrait (vertical) mode, which the passive cooling vents aren't designed for that position. I also want a monitor with built in speakers since I do take this to a friend's house from time to time.
So my question is if 1440P would be worth the upgrade? I was looking at the Asus ProArt since it can come in both a 16:10 1920x1200P or a 16:9 2560x1440p resolution and has built in speakers and a swiveling stand. However, the 1440p version is $350 whereas I can get the 1200p version for as low as $150.
Any thoughts?
1200P vs 1440P??
I've been using my ol' TFT 1200P Samsung Syncmaster T260 monitor for MiSTer and am looking into upgrading my RetroTink 2X to a 5X pro some day.
Anywho, the MiSTer looks awesome on the 1920x1200P monitor. But it is old and I have to lean it up against a wall to use it in portrait (vertical) mode, which the passive cooling vents aren't designed for that position. I also want a monitor with built in speakers since I do take this to a friend's house from time to time.
So my question is if 1440P would be worth the upgrade? I was looking at the Asus ProArt since it can come in both a 16:10 1920x1200P or a 16:9 2560x1440p resolution and has built in speakers and a swiveling stand. However, the 1440p version is $350 whereas I can get the 1200p version for as low as $150.
Any thoughts?
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
200*6=1200, 320*5= 1600 or 240*5=1200Issac Zachary wrote:Sorry I've talked about doing something like this before, but anywho:
1200P vs 1440P??
I've been using my ol' TFT 1200P Samsung Syncmaster T260 monitor for MiSTer and am looking into upgrading my RetroTink 2X to a 5X pro some day.
Anywho, the MiSTer looks awesome on the 1920x1200P monitor. But it is old and I have to lean it up against a wall to use it in portrait (vertical) mode, which the passive cooling vents aren't designed for that position. I also want a monitor with built in speakers since I do take this to a friend's house from time to time.
So my question is if 1440P would be worth the upgrade? I was looking at the Asus ProArt since it can come in both a 16:10 1920x1200P or a 16:9 2560x1440p resolution and has built in speakers and a swiveling stand. However, the 1440p version is $350 whereas I can get the 1200p version for as low as $150.
Any thoughts?
and pixel size is correct with pillarboxing on a 16:10 screen. my old NEC (same screen as the Eizo) does great for this. can probably get a used one
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Thanks! I forgot to include DOS games that are 320x200. That's a good point! And I have a lot of DOS games I play on MiSTer.vol.2 wrote:200*6=1200, 320*5= 1600 or 240*5=1200Issac Zachary wrote:Sorry I've talked about doing something like this before, but anywho:
1200P vs 1440P??
I've been using my ol' TFT 1200P Samsung Syncmaster T260 monitor for MiSTer and am looking into upgrading my RetroTink 2X to a 5X pro some day.
Anywho, the MiSTer looks awesome on the 1920x1200P monitor. But it is old and I have to lean it up against a wall to use it in portrait (vertical) mode, which the passive cooling vents aren't designed for that position. I also want a monitor with built in speakers since I do take this to a friend's house from time to time.
So my question is if 1440P would be worth the upgrade? I was looking at the Asus ProArt since it can come in both a 16:10 1920x1200P or a 16:9 2560x1440p resolution and has built in speakers and a swiveling stand. However, the 1440p version is $350 whereas I can get the 1200p version for as low as $150.
Any thoughts?
and pixel size is correct with pillarboxing on a 16:10 screen. my old NEC (same screen as the Eizo) does great for this. can probably get a used one
I was thinking of 480i/480p stuff 480x3=1440), but the only game I've been playing recently that has 480i in it is Gran Turismo 2, which is only on the title screens before the actual game starts, and I haven't been bothered by it. But shimmering in 240p does bother me on 1080p and 768p screens.
So I guess 1200p it is!
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Is anyone aware of a source of HuC6270 VDP chips for the NEC PC Engine? I have a unit that refuses to boot because of a defective VDP and I'm not willing to sacrifice a second unit simply to repair the first.
I know of GameDoctorHK but their stocks have run out as of this moment.
I know of GameDoctorHK but their stocks have run out as of this moment.
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
is there a thread here where I can offer a console for sale (ebay complicates stuff for me)? it is a twin famicom red and black.
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maxtherabbit
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
https://shmups.system11.org/viewforum.php?f=4VEGETA wrote:is there a thread here where I can offer a console for sale (ebay complicates stuff for me)? it is a twin famicom red and black.
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
You may be able to replace the hdfury and 203rxi combo with a single device like the Extron DVI-RGB 200.Ikaruga11 wrote: Converting my HDMI modded consoles (N64, GameCube, Wii, Dreamcast, etc.) into RGBHV (using the HD Fury 3), then into RGBS (using Extron 203rxi), then feeding that RGBS signal directly into my BVM D24. The reason I don't simply use analog output on my consoles is because I want to use the lossless digital signal for audio and streaming/recording. The video that goes to the BVM is converted HDMI -> RGBHV ->RGBS.
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
I think I might do that. Would be way cheaper and simpler, and might also give better picture quality due to less analog conversions. Thanks!strayan wrote:You may be able to replace the hdfury and 203rxi combo with a single device like the Extron DVI-RGB 200.Ikaruga11 wrote: Converting my HDMI modded consoles (N64, GameCube, Wii, Dreamcast, etc.) into RGBHV (using the HD Fury 3), then into RGBS (using Extron 203rxi), then feeding that RGBS signal directly into my BVM D24. The reason I don't simply use analog output on my consoles is because I want to use the lossless digital signal for audio and streaming/recording. The video that goes to the BVM is converted HDMI -> RGBHV ->RGBS.
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bobrocks95
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Can anyone recommend a cheap hot air rework station? I won't be using it often so I don't need anything fancy, but Amazon is so full of 858D clones that might apparently be literally wired backwards to mains that I don't know what would be a decent choice and can't even find who made the original 858D.
PS1 Disc-Based Game ID BIOS patch for MemCard Pro and SD2PSX automatic VMC switching.
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Which of the little extron boxes is it that I'd need to change sync types and/or strip sync?
I just bought some cables for PS1/N64/Saturn that are not friendly with my DT-2730 and I'm sure it's a sync type issue since the same consoles work with different cables.
I either need VGA in/out or BNC in/out.
I just bought some cables for PS1/N64/Saturn that are not friendly with my DT-2730 and I'm sure it's a sync type issue since the same consoles work with different cables.
I either need VGA in/out or BNC in/out.
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
how many weeks or months does cr2032 lasts for dreamcast when modded?
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maxtherabbit
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
The cheapest one would be the RGB 192V, but most of them can do itDejahThoris wrote:Which of the little extron boxes is it that I'd need to change sync types and/or strip sync?
I just bought some cables for PS1/N64/Saturn that are not friendly with my DT-2730 and I'm sure it's a sync type issue since the same consoles work with different cables.
I either need VGA in/out or BNC in/out.
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
I've found a few that will change sync types, but none of them seem to mention being able to strip sync from composite, which I'm 90% sure is what I need at this point. Is it just an unlisted feature?maxtherabbit wrote:The cheapest one would be the RGB 192V, but most of them can do itDejahThoris wrote:Which of the little extron boxes is it that I'd need to change sync types and/or strip sync?
I just bought some cables for PS1/N64/Saturn that are not friendly with my DT-2730 and I'm sure it's a sync type issue since the same consoles work with different cables.
I either need VGA in/out or BNC in/out.
I do see that it specifically states it doesn't strip sync from RGsB, so is that to suggest it does on all other inputs?
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Einzelherz
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
I've had one of these for a couple of years and it's been great for me. I'm not sure about amazon links here but it's a YIHUA 862BD+. I mostly use it for the iron, but the air has worked great when I've needed it. Just took me a few tries to understand that side of it.bobrocks95 wrote:Can anyone recommend a cheap hot air rework station? I won't be using it often so I don't need anything fancy, but Amazon is so full of 858D clones that might apparently be literally wired backwards to mains that I don't know what would be a decent choice and can't even find who made the original 858D.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RY5XWVG
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bobrocks95
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Hmm definitely overkill since I have a good iron already, but they do have a $70 station that's just hot air. It looks identical to all the other hot air stations on Amazon though- maybe clones are all you get in this price range?Einzelherz wrote:I've had one of these for a couple of years and it's been great for me. I'm not sure about amazon links here but it's a YIHUA 862BD+. I mostly use it for the iron, but the air has worked great when I've needed it. Just took me a few tries to understand that side of it.bobrocks95 wrote:Can anyone recommend a cheap hot air rework station? I won't be using it often so I don't need anything fancy, but Amazon is so full of 858D clones that might apparently be literally wired backwards to mains that I don't know what would be a decent choice and can't even find who made the original 858D.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RY5XWVG
PS1 Disc-Based Game ID BIOS patch for MemCard Pro and SD2PSX automatic VMC switching.
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Are there any good HDMI to RGB DACs that handle 15KHz resolutions (i.e. 240p and 480i)? My intent is to hook up an NTSC GameCube to an RGB modded TV without taking the plunge on an Eon GCHD Mk II due to its problems. Ideally I'd like to use a Carby and an external DAC to get the best picture.
I know it would be easiest to use an HDMI to YPbPr DAC and a COMP2RGB, but it would be nice to simplify this by going directly from HDMI to RGB if possible. Most of the "HDMI to SCART" adapters I find are for downscaling an HD input to 480/576i, so those are automatically out of the question.
I'm also unsure if those recommended passive HDMI to VGA converters support 15KHz resolutions (though if any of you have managed to use one in this case without issues, then I'd love to hear your experience).
It can output via SCART, VGA, or BNC/RCA, as I have adapters for the former two connectors.
I know it would be easiest to use an HDMI to YPbPr DAC and a COMP2RGB, but it would be nice to simplify this by going directly from HDMI to RGB if possible. Most of the "HDMI to SCART" adapters I find are for downscaling an HD input to 480/576i, so those are automatically out of the question.
I'm also unsure if those recommended passive HDMI to VGA converters support 15KHz resolutions (though if any of you have managed to use one in this case without issues, then I'd love to hear your experience).
It can output via SCART, VGA, or BNC/RCA, as I have adapters for the former two connectors.
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
If you're OK with RGBHV output, you can go on Amazon and just look for HDMI to VGA. The majority of powered boxes have additional audio outputs as well. There are also cables which don't need their own power supply, but they usually lack the extra audio port. I tried a good dozen of those and I think all but a single one handled 240p alright. Depending on your display, you might need a sync combiner though.
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maxtherabbit
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Depends on what you mean by "strip"DejahThoris wrote:I've found a few that will change sync types, but none of them seem to mention being able to strip sync from composite, which I'm 90% sure is what I need at this point. Is it just an unlisted feature?maxtherabbit wrote:The cheapest one would be the RGB 192V, but most of them can do itDejahThoris wrote:Which of the little extron boxes is it that I'd need to change sync types and/or strip sync?
I just bought some cables for PS1/N64/Saturn that are not friendly with my DT-2730 and I'm sure it's a sync type issue since the same consoles work with different cables.
I either need VGA in/out or BNC in/out.
I do see that it specifically states it doesn't strip sync from RGsB, so is that to suggest it does on all other inputs?
Will it extract the sync information from a CVBS input on the 'G' line and output it as C/H/V sync? Yes
Will it subsequently *output* a composite video signal without embedded sync? No
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
It specifically states it will NOT extract sync information from the G line if you look at the spec sheet.maxtherabbit wrote: Depends on what you mean by "strip"
Will it extract the sync information from a CVBS input on the 'G' line and output it as C/H/V sync? Yes
Will it subsequently *output* a composite video signal without embedded sync? No
https://media.extron.com/public/downloa ... 121310.pdf
"RGsB (does not strip sync from video)"
I'm asking if it will extract sync information from a composite video signal used as sync. RGBS with S coming from composite video.
Will this accomplish the same thing as a little LM1881 circuit is the question.
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Extron RGB boxes do not perform any "sync stripping".
We apologise for the inconvenience
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
I've been lead astray then! Guess it's time to rig up a custom thing then.orange808 wrote:Extron RGB boxes do not perform any "sync stripping".
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maxtherabbit
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Once again you are not understanding what "strip" means.DejahThoris wrote:It specifically states it will NOT extract sync information from the G line if you look at the spec sheet.maxtherabbit wrote: Depends on what you mean by "strip"
Will it extract the sync information from a CVBS input on the 'G' line and output it as C/H/V sync? Yes
Will it subsequently *output* a composite video signal without embedded sync? No
https://media.extron.com/public/downloa ... 121310.pdf
"RGsB (does not strip sync from video)"
I'm asking if it will extract sync information from a composite video signal used as sync. RGBS with S coming from composite video.
Will this accomplish the same thing as a little LM1881 circuit is the question.
"RGsB (does not strip sync from video)" <- this means that it does not REMOVE the sync signal from the device's output
it does in fact extract C/H/V sync from composite video fed into the Green line, I know this because I own two of them and have done it
if you feed composite into green, on the output side you will get the exact same composite video output on green, and additionally all three sync types on their respective BNCs - essentially turning it into a LM1881 as you want
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
So you're intentionally miswiring it (swapping sync and green) in order for it to remove video from the composite video line by putting it through the green input?maxtherabbit wrote:Once again you are not understanding what "strip" means.DejahThoris wrote:It specifically states it will NOT extract sync information from the G line if you look at the spec sheet.maxtherabbit wrote: Depends on what you mean by "strip"
Will it extract the sync information from a CVBS input on the 'G' line and output it as C/H/V sync? Yes
Will it subsequently *output* a composite video signal without embedded sync? No
https://media.extron.com/public/downloa ... 121310.pdf
"RGsB (does not strip sync from video)"
I'm asking if it will extract sync information from a composite video signal used as sync. RGBS with S coming from composite video.
Will this accomplish the same thing as a little LM1881 circuit is the question.
"RGsB (does not strip sync from video)" <- this means that it does not REMOVE the sync signal from the device's output
it does in fact extract C/H/V sync from composite video fed into the Green line, I know this because I own two of them and have done it
if you feed composite into green, on the output side you will get the exact same composite video output on green, and additionally all three sync types on their respective BNCs - essentially turning it into a LM1881 as you want
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maxtherabbit
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Intentionally miswiring it, yes. But once again, it is not *removing* anything. It picks up sync from the green input and outputs clean sync on the C/H/V sync BNC jacks.DejahThoris wrote:
So you're intentionally miswiring it (swapping sync and green) in order for it to remove video from the composite video line by putting it through the green input?
In other words, if you intend to use it in a context of RGB + composite video-as-sync, you must not pass RGB through the device at all. You use it (intentionally miswired as discussed) only to process sync.
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bobrocks95
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
I have slight audio buzzing issues on my Genesis 2 only while the Sega CD (also model 2) is attached to the extension port. Audible when just running cart games and goes away as soon as you unplug the CD unit.
I gave the connector a good clean and didn't notice any difference. Anything I can take a look at? I wonder if the metal shielding plates that came with the CD originally that have the forked connecting bit would help? They're pretty expensive though for some metal plates.
EDIT: Not very scientific test with the top plastic off on the Genesis 2 and CD 2- connecting the RF shields together with some metal makes a HUGE difference. I don't know if the problem is specific to my model Genesis 2 (so many revisions, so many problems with them...) or Sega CD or my triple bypass install, but I will definitely be getting the metal plate attachment after hearing how much of a difference it makes. Don't know why people say it's completely unnecessary.
I gave the connector a good clean and didn't notice any difference. Anything I can take a look at? I wonder if the metal shielding plates that came with the CD originally that have the forked connecting bit would help? They're pretty expensive though for some metal plates.
EDIT: Not very scientific test with the top plastic off on the Genesis 2 and CD 2- connecting the RF shields together with some metal makes a HUGE difference. I don't know if the problem is specific to my model Genesis 2 (so many revisions, so many problems with them...) or Sega CD or my triple bypass install, but I will definitely be getting the metal plate attachment after hearing how much of a difference it makes. Don't know why people say it's completely unnecessary.
PS1 Disc-Based Game ID BIOS patch for MemCard Pro and SD2PSX automatic VMC switching.
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
I recently hooked up my PC to my PVM monitor (JVC TM-H140PN) using the Extron VSC 500 scan convertor to play older games and watch anime etc, and although the picture quality is great, I've been plagued by screen tearing issues and can't for the life of me figure out how to solve it.
I've googled around thoroughly but information seems to be very scarce on this topic. Has anyone else experienced this or managed to figure out a solution?
The way I have things set up is PC> Tendak HDMI to VGA> Extron> S-video> Switch Box> PVM. The native resolution it outputs is 1024x768 at 60.004hz.
I've tried various different refresh rates and resolutions like 59hz and 640x480, Vsync on and off etc but none of this seem to make a difference.
The only thing I've had any luck with is fiddling with the horizontal and vertical sizing controls, by setting the numbers to different sizes which seems to have an impact on what type of tearing I get. It either makes the tearing roll up the screen or roll down it, or eliminates the tearing and replaces it with a 'judder' effect instead. None of which are ideal, obviously.
Any help on this matter would be greatly appreciated as I'm really starting to lose patience with it.
Thanks in advance!
I've googled around thoroughly but information seems to be very scarce on this topic. Has anyone else experienced this or managed to figure out a solution?
The way I have things set up is PC> Tendak HDMI to VGA> Extron> S-video> Switch Box> PVM. The native resolution it outputs is 1024x768 at 60.004hz.
I've tried various different refresh rates and resolutions like 59hz and 640x480, Vsync on and off etc but none of this seem to make a difference.
The only thing I've had any luck with is fiddling with the horizontal and vertical sizing controls, by setting the numbers to different sizes which seems to have an impact on what type of tearing I get. It either makes the tearing roll up the screen or roll down it, or eliminates the tearing and replaces it with a 'judder' effect instead. None of which are ideal, obviously.
Any help on this matter would be greatly appreciated as I'm really starting to lose patience with it.
Thanks in advance!
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
The scan converter outputs legacy broadcast standard NTSC or PAL interlaced video. The refresh rate of the Extron scan converter is out of sync with the source. Those scan converters don't have frame lock. You cannot sync the scan converter with the computer's output. There's no frame lock.neotokyo wrote:I recently hooked up my PC to my PVM monitor (JVC TM-H140PN) using the Extron VSC 500 scan convertor to play older games and watch anime etc, and although the picture quality is great, I've been plagued by screen tearing issues and can't for the life of me figure out how to solve it.
I've googled around thoroughly but information seems to be very scarce on this topic. Has anyone else experienced this or managed to figure out a solution?
The way I have things set up is PC> Tendak HDMI to VGA> Extron> S-video> Switch Box> PVM. The native resolution it outputs is 1024x768 at 60.004hz.
I've tried various different refresh rates and resolutions like 59hz and 640x480, Vsync on and off etc but none of this seem to make a difference.
The only thing I've had any luck with is fiddling with the horizontal and vertical sizing controls, by setting the numbers to different sizes which seems to have an impact on what type of tearing I get. It either makes the tearing roll up the screen or roll down it, or eliminates the tearing and replaces it with a 'judder' effect instead. None of which are ideal, obviously.
Any help on this matter would be greatly appreciated as I'm really starting to lose patience with it.
Thanks in advance!
There's only so much that you can do. Try setting PC refresh rate as closely to the Extron VSC output refresh rate as possible. For NTSC, that is probably ~59.94 Hz. Even if you set the computer to the "same" refresh rate as the Extron, you'll probably still have some drift. There's going to be some artifacts (no matter what). Remember, the Extron has no frame lock to sync things up.
For games, I would enable vsync and play in borderless full window (make sure to enable the new Windows optimizations for windowed gaming). That should force the frame rate to your desktop setting and prevent tearing on the PC side. Getting the best possible video might be more tricky and I'm not going down that rabbit hole.
We apologise for the inconvenience