
Note: It's the Borti version with the Deblur toggle, by the way.
How would one do that? Might be the same issue. I think I've seen another thread on here about the jailbars before, actually. Maybe I'll try to find it..bobrocks95 wrote: The 3.3V rail on the N64 itself is pretty noisy, so it's better to generate it separately.
Awesome! Any benefits to flashing the firmware with Bortis? Probably too challenging for me to do, perhaps. What's the process?NoAffinity wrote:Yeah Tim's board requires that additional ground connection. ^^ open up your n64 if you're able and check to see if it's there. I bet it isnt. Will be a very simple fix for your local modder.
Side note: borti has a version of his firmware on his github that can be flashed to tims board. It wont clear up the issue, but just mentioning it.
I found the PCB link that is $3.60 for 3x and 0.8mm thickness, at least to me in the US. For those unfamiliar with buying components:bobrocks95 wrote:Not available from this seller but just an example- https://arthrimus.com/product/borti4938 ... regulator/
The RGB board normally pulls 3.3V from the console, this adds a regulator on the 5V rail to generate a separate 3.3V source from it that's cleaner.
But it looks like if you have a newer Borti board it's not needed. Pics would help if you don't know which version yours is.
It's probably because the analog video wires are cable tied to the digital data wires. Cut the cable tie and separate them as much as possible.Leviathan_GX wrote:Plot twist! Turns out my N64 still has jailbars. Had the ground wire on there already?
https://imgur.com/a/BWMMZt2
Can anyone help me identify the board, & problem? 3.3V mod board needed?