Leoraider wrote:Hey I have ten units of 2054qm, yes they are the same of 1954 (released in USA) all my units have bright picture, high contrast and a Perfect White but all have a little streacking of brightest objects on grey backgrounds to the right. I have already recapped one and got a Perfect geometry and improved picture quality but not solved the smearing/streacking wich is barely visibile.
How bad is the streaking? Is it like just a half or quarter of a pixel (in common 256 or 320 wide modes)? I have the same problem on a 2043MD, I've been told it is a) normal and b) just due to the age and wear of the tube and not possible to fix without a new tube. I've also seen it on closeups of other peoples' PVMs.
Thankfully it at least hasn't got worse over the many years I've had the monitor.
Leoraider wrote:Hey I have ten units of 2054qm, yes they are the same of 1954 (released in USA) all my units have bright picture, high contrast and a Perfect White but all have a little streacking of brightest objects on grey backgrounds to the right. I have already recapped one and got a Perfect geometry and improved picture quality but not solved the smearing/streacking wich is barely visibile.
How bad is the streaking? Is it like just a half or quarter of a pixel (in common 256 or 320 wide modes)? I have the same problem on a 2043MD, I've been told it is a) normal and b) just due to the age and wear of the tube and not possible to fix without a new tube. I've also seen it on closeups of other peoples' PVMs.
Thankfully it at least hasn't got worse over the many years I've had the monitor.
I have teste all tubes with my tube rejuv and all are absolutely in very good condition...may be the issue in on the neck board, I have already noticed this issue on arcade monitors just when spark gaps fail.
TheRetromancer wrote:Would it be possible for someone to post a high-resolution of the underside of the PVM-20M2U A board, specifically near IC507? I've caused some damage to a point, and its obscuring where it needs to be connected.
You should check the schematic in the service manual. I might have a photo of the board from a 20M4U.
Any news on that photo, mate?
"Thanks for the nice reply. I do offer to do work without hot glue too if people prefer it that way." - Drakon
TheRetromancer wrote:Would it be possible for someone to post a high-resolution of the underside of the PVM-20M2U A board, specifically near IC507? I've caused some damage to a point, and its obscuring where it needs to be connected.
You should check the schematic in the service manual. I might have a photo of the board from a 20M4U.
Any news on that photo, mate?
Sorry, I only have a photo of the top of the board
I've recapped my Sony PVM-1454QM (Australian) = 1354Q
now
The image is excellent, like new, but the menu system no longer functions. I can toggle inputs etc via front buttons but when I press Menu, I loose colour for half a second and nothing else happens. I need access to the menu for geometry adjustments.
Any clues on where to look ? I am on day 4 of hobby time and tired haha.
Photos are available but unsure how they'd help, ?common fault?
captaineos wrote:I've recapped my Sony PVM-1454QM (Australian) = 1354Q
now
The image is excellent, like new, but the menu system no longer functions. I can toggle inputs etc via front buttons but when I press Menu, I loose colour for half a second and nothing else happens. I need access to the menu for geometry adjustments.
Any clues on where to look ? I am on day 4 of hobby time and tired haha.
Photos are available but unsure how they'd help, ?common fault?
If you haven't done so already: double check your connections, make sure everything on the inside is plugged in fully, then get a magnifying glass out and have a good look at the board you just worked on. Look for lifted traces, bad solder joints, and bridged solder joints. A multi-meter with continuity check can be helpful. You should be able to determine the section specifically related to the front panel by looking at the schematic.
SpiderWaffle wrote:Anyone have PVM-14L5 and 20L5 recommendations on recapping?
This is most of the info from Pat that's been shared to the community so far, F and D 20 recap lists:
(let me know if you want to access to add more to this sheet, trying to get a good archive here) https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/ ... sp=sharing
Someone shared this bit of knowledge:
"I was just talking to Pat on the phone today, actually. I asked about two monitors and this is what he told me:
Sony PVM 20L5: Replace 4.7µF 160v capacitors with 10µF 250V ones. The capacitors on the deflection circuit tend to go first.
Sony PVM 1342Q: The vertical circuit is the main trouble point. There are two different vertical circuits you could have, one with a 2.2µF 160v capacitor and one with a 1µF 160v capacitor. For the 2.2µF board replace it with a 4.7µF 160v. For the 1µF board replace it with a 2.2µF 160v. The other capacitors around them tend to go bad as well.
Sorry these aren't full sheets but this is what he told me."
The service manual only shows one 160v capacitor, and it's listed as 33MF (uF).
Does anyone has access to this google doc? It has since been deleted.