shmups.system11.org

Worked fine before the
mod

I'm going to try it with the Happ arcade power supply tonight and see what happens with it

Hi, does anybody think if I removed the existing Intel PLCC 48 SMD microcontroller from the board that it would still work as long as I’m using GBS-Control? I sort of damaged it while trying to solder debug now I just want to hack it off.

I have mine fully de-soldered, the only thing that stopped working for me is red power indicator, but I probably just damaged it while hacking off the MC.

bunch dang savages in here

I tested YPbPr output from the GBS with control and it seemed to work fine, it should be noted that it says it's an experimental feature and even though it seemed fine to me I didn't test it for too long. Tested:

N64 > SyncStrike > GBS Cntrl [Downscale needs to be enabled even though the source is 15khz] > 15khz PVM (YPbPr)
Xbox 360 RGBHV* [@480p] > GBS Cntrol [Downscale on] > 15khz PVM (YPbPr)

*The GBS doesn't like RGBHV for downscaling so you'll need to figure out a way to get combined sync like with an Extron unit or some other sync combiner/processor. In this case, it behaved exactly like RGB output with the same artifacts

I tried the power supply and I'm still getting the distortion on the picture with gbs control. I don't know what to do should I order another gbs8200 and try it I'm at a loss or should I put the esp8266 in a different area or should I move away from the , I didn't try it in rgbs I might do it in rgbs and see if it still does it , has anyone had that problem where the picture simmers to the right and left slowly


I'm at a loss to trying what to do

Hmm I had issues with a bad PSU that produced a distorted picture but you've said you already tried another. What other mods have you done to the board?

It's bone stock no mods I was thinking of doing the c11 mod to the board then do the other caps later should I try to move the esp8266 futher away from the board

Definitely try RGBS if you haven't already, it's a LOT more compatible from my experiences so far.

If you can do the other mods too that might narrow down if its some other problem but understandable if you don't have the parts handy. Good luck with the c11 mod!

Every time i boot up gbs-control I have to manually select pass through output even though i saved the settings. Is their a way for it to boot automatically with pass through already selected?

Did the c11 mod with a 22uf 50v capacitor

And tried a 5 volt brick instead of a usb power supply and now with ypbpr it outputs the way it should I wasent using a VGA to HDMI adapter last time this time I was there and now the screen is perfect and works all ,,,,,


The only issue I have is that the wifi disconnects after a few minutes with the esp8266

now all i have to do is fiqure out why the wifi keeps turning off

The wifi is very touchy. If you have it joined to your wifi (not connecting directly via smartphone/other client device), changing the wifi channel sometimes helps. I also found that changing the bandwidth mode on my router can helped. I had mine set to 20/40mhz mode. When I changed it to 40mhz only, it got solid.

Also, the antenna on the esp either just isnt great or gets overpowered by surrounding noise from gbs components. You can make a small 'L' out of some solid 26 gauge wire (or comparable), and solder it to the antenna so that about 1/4" inch of the wire is perpendicular to the board. Using an extracted pin from the header pins that come with the esp's can also work.

There were a couple other suggestions for antenna solutions recently in this thread as well, if you go back within probably the last 50 posts.

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Try disabling Preferences > Matched Presets.

I want to do thw same thing, VGA input --> GBS Control --> Component out to CRT TV
would it take just this cable - https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=2170

Is there a preferred GBS-8200 model for the mod?

Has anyone tried hacking in a wired ethernet to the esp8266
https://hackaday.com/2016/07/01/wired-n ... e-esp8266/

@allenb - That cable should work. Is your CRT TV 15khz only? Are you planning to put RGBS or RGBHV over the VGA/DE-15 input?

Thanks for the help.

I was hoping for VGA out H V from both a PC output VGA and HDMI --> VGA converter.

Do I need RBGS? I have extron 192, but would also need an RGBS BNC --> VGA cable if it is preferred.

TV is 15kHz only.

Yes, you need RGBS if your CRT TV is 15khz and you need 480p/i downscaling or simple RGB to YPbPr 15khz transcoding. If you're using CRT-Emudriver (possibly some other similar programs) on your PC I believe you can choose to put out composite sync and get RGBS over VGA/DE-15.

ok, so this doesn't downscale. it's a what-goes-in is what-goes-out situation. so what is it used for then (when outputting to a 15kHz CRT)?

i mean, if you're already pushing 15kHz RGBS out of your analog output via CRT emudriver, what is adding the GBS doing to the signal?

Just transcoding in that scenario (he puts out 15khz RGBS from the PC), he wants to use his CRT TV's component inputs I believe.

The absence of a microcontroller does not affect the operation of GBS Control. I deleted MTV230.
MTV230 in socket

the GBS can and does downscale, it can also act as a passthrough transcoder

Yes, that is the thought is I can use it to downscale some inputs via HDMI --> VGA and transcode from the PC.

I tried disabling matched presets but it still won't work after restarting everything. Even my picture position settings are reset each time?

yikes. okay, seemed too good to be true. i guess i'll have to ride the gbscontrol train.

When flashing the firmware with arduino ide, change the flash size as noted below. Can be found in the github software setup guide.

Set CPU frequency to 160 MHz and Flash size to "4MB (FS:1MB OTA:~1019KB)".

https://github.com/ramapcsx2/gbs-contro ... ware-Setup




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Is anyone else getting serious diagonal line noise when using lower output resolutions? My board is basically stock, so I haven't done the C11 mod but I don't really see noise at 720p and up. When I pass through 480p or use 720x480 output modes, though, I get diagonal waves. My board is an old 2009 rev and I'm using a 5 volt 2 amp PSU, if that helps at all.

Is it possible to automate the resistor removal when higher sync signals are coming in?

I use with PC, DC, Wii, PS2 so 50/50 resistor and not.