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I'll give you a clue, the name of this thread is....

Sony BA-5D/BA-5 Chassis TV RGB Mod with OSD Mix

This is extraordinary, I am going to try to make this mix with a 29 chassis ba5-d tv. Currently this rgb mod I did with a "21" tv with ba5 chassis and the image is extraordinary I add that this mod is without the osd mix, I only add 0.1mf capacitors in line of each color and 75 ohm resistors connected to earth and synchronous use it direct are resistors and the image is amazing but with mortal kombat 1 2 and 3 pcbs i have vertical synchronous problems and the image goes from top to bottom slowly without stopping.
https://youtu.be/aC3v3NRFLQk
I tried to adjust it with the service menu in the VSS value and change it from 0 to 1 and the problem persists. Is there any other parameter to stop the image? Or should I add resistances to the synchronous?

Hello guys..
after failing miserably with my first set (Sony KV21XTR3, jungle CXA 1875S, Digital RGB only...) i got a second one to try..

Sony KV 21FE12A with jungle chip Sony CXA2135S.

I read some succesfull stories in the other thread with this model, with the lifted-legs method..
https://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?p=1256554#p1256554
but no schematics given there.

My quarantined head is playing me tricks, and i got lost many times and didnt manage to figure this out. I decided to go the archaic method of lifting legs, but i'm not convinced at all. Now I prefer going backwards and rewire the legs and go the MUX way.

This is the part where the action occurs..



I lifted the legs for RGB2 and pin 29 (blanking?).. but i will wire them down again, as i have already identified some solder points for the MUX.


Doubt about Blanking

Referring to the datasheet..



the blanking voltage is 2V...
is it ok to send 3V, as you usually do ?


The main idea is to have an RGB TV for consoles and mainly AMIGA 500. So i could use a female DB9 in the back of the TV (for the Commodore cable i have), and for other consoles, use a "male DB9 to 4 rca" adaptor (R, G, B, Sync input) for homemade cables.

I guess termination on the input side is always needed, right? Not planning to use SCART by now.


I share CXA2135S DATASHEET and Sony KV 21 series BA5 chassis SERVICE MANUALS, for future reference.
http://www.mediafire.com/file/22xhhvoecq44gl2/KV-21FE12A__Service_Manual.pdf/file
http://www.mediafire.com/file/muee27078zuq8tq/CXA2135S.pdf/file


EDIT: i've made some progress and i deleted the confusion in this post. Next one will be the final diagram and working TV photos..

Is there any solution to this? it's very strange that I can't adjust the synchronous from the service menu, I already made my 3rd mod of tv's to rgb and they all look excellent but in all 3 I have this problem with this game and also I realized that the color controls do not work in any, I can adjust brightness, contrast, height, width, position, but not color, not synchronous. Has anyone noticed that the color control does not work? or if they know and is it normal? Can anybody help me?

Finally I made the mod osd mix and I want to say that it is very easy to do. The mod I did with 1k resistors in synchronous lines and the image is amazing but in some mame games like galaga, the vertical synchronous roll down without stopping, this problem I also have with the other mods without osd mix with arcade pcbs like Mortal kombat and I thought that with mame games it would be solved but when starting the galaga game the problem persists. How can I solve this problem? Has anyone noticed this problem? Is there a way to add a potentiometer like arcade monitors to adjust the v-hold and fix it?

consumer CRT televisions are simply not designed to allow for vertical refresh to deviate substantially from 60Hz (or 50Hz in PAL territory)

there may be an adjustment for vertical hold in the sony service menu

Thank you very much for your answer friend. In the service adjustment menu, the parameter to adjust it is called VSS but in rgb mode it does not work, for that reason it is my question to put a v-hold potentiometer.

This is what i did to this KV21FE12A :

Removed marked resistors..


Added 1K ohm resistors to each color feed, and soldered to those Jumper Wires...


I still need to make the proper termination to gnd at conector (but i dont have 75 ohm resistors here)


This is what i got so far. I find it quite good, but not perfect.
The screen shifting to the left is very noticeable and not 100% fixeable within Service Menu (even at HPOS 0, and it wont go negative). You can always scale up the image to fill the screen, but much more content is loss on the left side.
I read that composite sync thru the comb filter is the culprit of this shifting, and that i should bypass it. But this set doesnt have svideo inputs. Should i try to feed Luma or Chroma right into the jungle chip?

Another annoying thing is the buzzing at white screens.

Here are the pics..

buzzing on white screens is from the signal cable, it's audio crosstalk from the video lines

nice choice of games btw, 2 of my favorites

There should be a h-pos toggle on the main PCB. I modded a 24FV12 a month or two ago and it needed the h-pos changed with the toggle as well.

Would you please point me in the right direction? I dont find that toggle. Is it in the motherboard or in the neckboard? I didnt find it on the Service Manual (pdf attached to my previous post).

Thanks in advance for your help.

It should be on the A board if your set has it. Small white toggle switch. I have gotten rid of all my RGB modded sets, otherwise I'd grab a photo for you.

Thanks a lot and kudos for your tip, DRC!!

Toggled this switch (SW502) and it fixed the screen shifting to the left!!



Now i can center it perfectly with the Service Menu..




I re-routed the wiring for the speakers, and the buzzing is gone!! Thanks for solution, maxtherabbit!!

More pics of colourfull nostalgia..

Pin 8 in the drawing above is the blaniking pin. I followed the line through L304. The outside leg is where I was going to inject the 5V with a 2K2R inline into for blanking signal.

If you follow that all the way up, it goes to jumper. That jumper topside seems to be:



JW130

Does this seem right?[/quote]

Thanks for this, after sending hours looking for diode fianlly saw this and worked flawlessly.

@MarkOZLAD can you please add info to the main post?

Hello Friend. I also have a buzz in the white images, which speaker cable do you mean? Could you tell me which ones you changed and what type of cable you used?

I didnt change wires. I re-routed existing speaker ones. There was one running close to others going to the neckboard.

I still have the tv back opened and the buzzing is completely gone. I hope it will be ok when closed.

Hey everyone, I recently RGB modded my Sony KV-27FS100 (BA-5D Chassis) and found this forum to be HUGE help. Thanks to everyone who helped put this together and I'd like to add a small bit that helped me out.

I was initially getting weird brightness issues (right side of screen much brighter than left). I read elsewhere on the forums that SONY Trinitrons often require terminating the RGB lines to ground with 100 Ohm resistors rather than the typical 75 Ohm, this actually fixed my brightness issue and now my picture is clean and crisp. I just wanted to pass it along in case anyone else is experiencing similar issues.

Thanks again

I wanna say thanks to MarkOZLAD and DRC. I have successfully modded my KV-27FS13.

I only have two minor issues. I only have an original SNES with an Insurrection Industries scart cable to test with right now. (I wired up a female scart connector on the tv.)

1. I'm getting some analog noise, kind of in the shape of like a repeating tangent curve. It's most noticeable on solid colors. I haven't wired up every single ground on the scart connector yet so I'm hoping this will go away once I button everything up. I haven't wired up audio either. I'm running whatever is on pin 20 (the website says its csync) to the component Y input.

2. I was planning on using scart pin 16 for blanking instead of wiring up a switch. I noticed a big enough problem. Having the cable plugged in, even without the snes on the other end, it causes a significant shadow or ghosting on the OSD. Using a switch solves this but I wanted to avoid it if possible. Any ideas? Maybe a diode would fix this?


edit: update: I'm getting noise/interference regardless of input. It's hard to describe but it's basically like the brightness is strobing in solid colored areas.

edit update 2: I completely removed the mod and it's still showing the interference. I wish I had double/triple checked if there was any interference before I started this.

edit update 3: I put the tv all back together (only difference is that the original OSD resistors are missing) to see what happened. SNES is still showing the same noise/interference (this time it's over component with hd retrovision cables. I've tested with contra 3 on my original not 1 chip SNES as well as composite on a SNES JR and all showed the same thing. Maybe its the SNES ac adapter I'm using.) The interference I was seeing with Saturn over Svideo is greatly reduced, if not gone, so that must have had to do with the position/rotation in the room or something.

I'm going to go back and mod it once I get some more scart cables to test with different consoles. An original SNES isn't the best test case as it looks like ass no matter what.

edit update 4: The exact same interference with the SNES is visible on my Commodore 1084s using composite too, using a different ac adapter. So now wtf is wrong with my snes.

edit update 5: The Insurrection Industries cables do have pin 16 properly wired. It turns out according to the spec, pin 16 should have a 75ohm impedance, just like r/g/b.

It's for these sorts of situations that I find it's just easier to install a switch. The mods can definitely be done using the scart pin 16, I believe I put a method up in this thread or the main thread but you have to make assumptions as to how the scart cable is wired (could possibly use transistors as switches to make it work on a wider range of circuits I guess). I mod to sell and as such I prefer certainty.

A well placed switch can actually be a selling point. I like to use illuminated switches for that extra bit of bling.

Yeah I think between my pin 16 dreams going out the window and the not-made-for-soldering-wires-to quality of the female SCART connectors I could find, I think I'm just going to ditch SCART and go with BNCs.

I hate wiring scart into the TV, I use RCA and build adaptors.

SCART is just ass

Go DE-9 if you're a true baller

Yeah, so small....Those screw terminal breakouts are good though.

Life's too short to be soldering shithouse connectors. I have a day job.

I'm going to update my original post but I just want to clarify the Insurrection Industries cable does have pin 16 wired up correctly. It turns out pin 16 is supposed to have a 75ohm impedance, like r/g/b etc. So there is a 180 ohm resistor present jumpering pin 16 to pin 8 (5 volts).

So ohm's law (5 x 75) / (180 + 75) = ~1.5v all good.

Currently I made the mod with osd mix on my sony kv-29fa310 and everything works perfect and yesterday a friend asked me to make a mod to his sony tv of the same model kv-29fa210 and I currently finished making the mod and I can See that your TV has more intense and vivid colors than mine and I would like to adjust the colors of my TV the same as my friend's but the detail is that the color settings do not work, they do not act or increase or decrease, I thought that It was a problem with my TV but there are already several TVs that I modify to RGB and the color controls do not work, does anyone know what can be done?
I add that the color control does not work in the normal menu nor in the service menu

This is normal in my experience. the RGB signal completely bypasses the "color" controls of the TV. you'll need to adjust the RGB cutoff/drive settings in the service menu. Make sure you write down the default values first! Look for options labeled like this:

Good night everyone. I am studying the RGB modification for my trinitron KV-29SL40/8 television. Currently I am not clear about the resistor values ​​I should use and I am also not sure whether or not I should remove the 680 resistors.
I ask yours to please help me to know the resistance values ​​that I must put to obtain a successful modification.

Thank you very much.



http://www.subirimagenes.com/imagen-ba4-9929742.html



http://www.subirimagenes.com/imagen-baa ... 29741.html

Below are my assumptions:

External RGB Resistor: 750 ohm online and 75 ohm ground according to what was learned in this forum.

I'm not sure if for blanking leave a resistance of 6.8k or a resistance of 4.7k.




Sorry for my English. I am from Colombia and I use google to translate.

Your set is a Sony BA-4 chassis.

The basic process for the RGB will be to remove R086, R087 and R088 and then input your 75 ohm terminated external RGB through the OSD Mux resistors.

The set has inline resistors R025, R026 and R027 of value 4.7K ohms, the mux resistors that match these are 750 ohm.

For blanking take 5V send it through a 220 ohm resistor onto the leg of Diode DD03 that is closest to the IC001.

It seems that it is very similar to the BA-4D mod. You can find details about it here....

viewtopic.php?f=6&t=56155&p=1342960&hilit=documenting+Sony+mod#p1342960