Questions About The RetroTINK 2x.

[Ronin]

I have a couple of questions about the RetroTINK 2x. If you are familiar with it and can help it would be much appreciated! Pardon my ignorance, as I am still relatively new to the world of RGB.

For my current setup I have six consoles modded for RGB all connected to a scart switch, which itself is connected to a CRT via a scart to bnc adapter. I would like to get a RetroTINK 2x so I can connect my consoles to my modern tv. However, when watching reviews for the RetroTINK 2x, I saw people saying that you should not connect multiple consoles to the device at the same time. Does that mean that I shouldn’t connect it to my scart switch and instead just connect individual consoles one at a time?

Also, I was a little confused in the interview Bob over at RetroRGB did with the creator. He asked him why the original model doesn’t have RGB, but I thought that component and RGB were the same thing. He has a model with a scart connection, so I can just get that, but I was just curious. Couldn’t someone just use a scart to bnc adapter to get RGB through the original or pro models?

Thanks!

[Fudoh]

The statement refers to the version with composite, s-video and component, not the scart one (which you want). Using a switch is fine of course.

Component and RGB are different color spaces. Component uses 3 parallel signals (luma and two color channels) and is usually connected through 3 RCA (Cinch) connectors. RGB uses three color channels plus a sync line and is usually connected using scart.

You NEED to get the Scart version if you want to use RGB sources.

[Ronin]

The statement refers to the version with composite, s-video and component, not the scart one (which you want). Using a switch is fine of course.

Component and RGB are different color spaces. Component uses 3 parallel signals (luma and two color channels) and is usually connected through 3 RCA (Cinch) connectors. RGB uses three color channels plus a sync line and is usually connected using scart.

You NEED to get the Scart version if you want to use RGB sources.

Ah, I understand now. Thank you!

So can I still use my scart switch, but just use a scart cable to connect it to the RetroTINK 2x instead of the bnc adapter?

[mikechi2]

Yup, the no multiple inputs was for mixing and matching component, composite and s-video on the original and Pro models.

All of them work fine via a switch since the switch basically converts multiple inputs to one output at a time.

If you're only running RGB SCART you should also look @ the OSSC, though.

[paulb_nl]

For € 30 more you can buy an OSSC so why would you buy a RetroTink 2x SCART?

[Ronin]

Yup, the no multiple inputs was for mixing and matching component, composite and s-video on the original and Pro models.

All of them work fine via a switch since the switch basically converts multiple inputs to one output at a time.

If you're only running RGB SCART you should also look @ the OSSC, though.

OK cool. Thank you!

I did look at the OSSC. It definitely seems superior, however, my understanding is that it requires a lot of tweaking for different consoles. I know some people really like that, but as I am still a bit of a newbie, I thought the simpler plugin and play aspect of the RetroTINK 2x would be better for me. Also in Bob’s videos he said it might be worth owning both and using the RetroTINK 2x for video capture. So maybe I can upgrade to the OSSC at some point.

What do you think? Is the difference in quality between the two significant?

[Ronin]

For € 30 more you can buy an OSSC so why would you buy a RetroTink 2x SCART?

As I was saying to mikechi2, I like the simple plug in and play aspect of the RetroTINK 2x. But if OSSC is significantly better in quality, then maybe the tweaking required for each console is worth it?

[Kez]

For € 30 more you can buy an OSSC so why would you buy a RetroTink 2x SCART?

As I was saying to mikechi2, I like the simple plug in and play aspect of the RetroTINK 2x. But if OSSC is significantly better in quality, then maybe the tweaking required for each console is worth it?

There is a lot of talk about optimal timings etc. on OSSC but honestly it looks really good in the default, generic 4:3 profile. If you want to try and squeeze extra sharpness out of it you can look into dialing in specific settings for consoles but it is far from a requirement for good results.

[mikechi2]

For € 30 more you can buy an OSSC so why would you buy a RetroTink 2x SCART?

As I was saying to mikechi2, I like the simple plug in and play aspect of the RetroTINK 2x. But if OSSC is significantly better in quality, then maybe the tweaking required for each console is worth it?

There is a lot of talk about optimal timings etc. on OSSC but honestly it looks really good in the default, generic 4:3 profile. If you want to try and squeeze extra sharpness out of it you can look into dialing in specific settings for consoles but it is far from a requirement for good results.

Thanks! Yup, there's and pros and cons of both approach. I can get amazing results with the OSSC in Line5x. But if you prefer a simpler solution and/or like the smoothing function (I don't like it for 2D but usually leave it on for early gen 3D stuff) then the TINK2x might work.

[mikechi2]

Yup, the no multiple inputs was for mixing and matching component, composite and s-video on the original and Pro models.

All of them work fine via a switch since the switch basically converts multiple inputs to one output at a time.

If you're only running RGB SCART you should also look @ the OSSC, though.

OK cool. Thank you!

I did look at the OSSC. It definitely seems superior, however, my understanding is that it requires a lot of tweaking for different consoles. I know some people really like that, but as I am still a bit of a newbie, I thought the simpler plugin and play aspect of the RetroTINK 2x would be better for me. Also in Bob’s videos he said it might be worth owning both and using the RetroTINK 2x for video capture. So maybe I can upgrade to the OSSC at some point.

What do you think? Is the difference in quality between the two significant?

PS - for capture, I think Voultar had recommended a relatively low cost USB 3.0 card that worked just fine with the OSSC in Line5x: https://www.amazon.com/shop/voultar?listId=VKA461VIK9R4

Get them quick, because they seem to go out of stock often.

[Ronin]

OK cool, I have a much better understanding now. Maybe I will look into the OSSC instead. Thanks for all of the advice everyone!

[Fudoh]

OSSC vs. Retrotink isn't an obvious choice for everyone.

Good friend of mine just got a big new monitor and needed an upscaler for his plethora of RGB systems. Recommended the OSSC first and he was really overwhelmed by the options (plus his NES and SNES causing problems). Lent him my x2 Scart and he's totally happy with it over using the OSSC.

There's a big plus to the ease of use that comes with the x2 over something like the OSSC.

[paulb_nl]

Recommended the OSSC first and he was really overwhelmed by the options

If you are overwhelmed by the options then just stay away from the scary options menu. Even at default settings the OSSC provides a sharper video output compared to the RetroTink 2x and it supports up to 1080p input.

When you have overcome your fear of options then you can change the output to LineX3/4/5 for an even sharper image.

Now if the Retrotink2x SCART also would have supported composite and S-video through the SCART connector that would have been a great all in one device for people that just want to connect unmodded consoles.

[ASDR]

Another vote for at least checking out the OSSC instead. The RetroTink machines always seemed like well-made devices, but compared to the OSSC I always get a 10% the functionality at 90% of the price impression, at least if you see them as a general-purpose main video processor type devices. The RetroTink is severely limited in the sense that you either get the version without SCART RGB or the one without Component YPbPr, it's limited to up to 480i and 480p out and there are very few settings to configure or tweak things. For me the main reason for the RetroTink is the composite/S-Video support, which the OSSC lacks, but the SCART RetroTink you'd need can't do that either, so once you upgrade to an OSSC it's probably fairly useless. The OSSC has a million settings, but even if you leave all the fancy stuff at default it'll already be the best looking video processor for most situations. And if you actually want to get into the dirty details and dial in pixel-perfect digitization, aspect ratio tweaks, set up scanlines exactly like you want them or correct the overly bright/dark output from a problematic console, you can. You say you're a newbie, but you have a rack full of RGB modded consoles, I'd say you're technical enough to play with some menu options, if you chose to.

[nmalinoski]

Component and RGB are different color spaces. Component uses 3 parallel signals (luma and two color channels) and is usually connected through 3 RCA (Cinch) connectors. RGB uses three color channels plus a sync line and is usually connected using scart.

A longer answer: Most people use "component" to refer to YPbPr, although it also refers to any analogue video type that uses more than one cable to transmit video data, so S-Video, YPbPr, and all forms of RGB are all technically component video; while composite video and RF are not, because they use a single cable to transmit video.

Similarly, a lot of people use "RGB" as shorthand for RGBS (as described by Fudoh), but RGB more generally refers to red, green, and blue signals carried over separate wires, and sync can be handled a variety of ways:

• Video-level (1Vp-p) composite sync muxed to green (RGsB, typically via DE-15/VGA cable, sometimes RCA);
• Video-level composite sync on its own wire (RGBS, typically from consumer equipment via SCART, where sync source is most often composite video, but can also be luma or clean composite sync);
• TTL (5V) composite sync on its own wire (Also RGBS, typically from pro AV equipment via BNC or DE-15); or
• TTL separate sync on two separate wires (RGBHV, colloquially VGA, typically from PCs via DE-15 or BNC)

[hellbelly]

Is one device better than the other for 480i/240p transitions. In it’s default state isn’t the OSSC look like it performs these slow (but maybe that’s the TV adjusting too?)

[nmalinoski]

Is one device better than the other for 480i/240p transitions. In it’s default state isn’t the OSSC look like it performs these slow (but maybe that’s the TV adjusting too?)

It's a side effect of using HDMI. 240p line-doubled to 480p and 480i line-doubled to 480p have slight differences in timing, enough to be considered different video modes, and HDMI needs to disconnect and reconnect in order to switch video modes (which is why you see games on HDMI-native hardware, like PS3 and Xbox 360, switch to a different resolution only at the start of the game and never during).

Although I've heard reports that the original RT2X is able to survive HDMI blackouts when using S-Video (I don't think I've seen it for myself), both the RT2X and OSSC suffer HDMI blackouts. You would need the upcoming OSSC Pro in order to survive HDMI blackouts during mode changes, and that would likely come with a penalty of 1 frame of lag. (I think only CRTs are able to manage instantaneous mode switching.)

[hellbelly]

Interesting. Ta.

I thought I heard that the rad2x HDMI cables by RGC/Mike Chi had faster switching than OSSC, which made me wonder if the Retrotink products in general do also.

[mikechi2]

Interesting. Ta.

I thought I heard that the rad2x HDMI cables by RGC/Mike Chi had faster switching than OSSC, which made me wonder if the Retrotink products in general do also.

It's really hard to say... I think all the devices recover near instantly... The X-factor is the display, so it's impossible to draw conclusions from a random sample of different TVs.