Reflow and reballing seem to be band-aids from what people have said but this seems like a decent long term solution. @retrorgb I know you tried getting your phat PS3 fixed, maybe you could look into this?a few SMD Capacitors manufactured by NEC "Formerly known as "NEC/TOKIN", which are responsible for the YLOD issue caused by the early PlayStation3 revisions.
Do you have a list of which caps are the culprits?Gunstar wrote:Edit: thought I saw another post here!
Not sure, this stuff is way above my pay grade. From my comprehension (or lack of), the reballing of the RSX/Cell was heating those problematic caps and inadvertently "restoring capacitance" for an undetermined time and so the solder itself is actually okay. I think just directly replacing those specific caps is the only thing needed?
I believe it's these:DejahThoris wrote:Do you have a list of which caps are the culprits?Gunstar wrote:Edit: thought I saw another post here!
Not sure, this stuff is way above my pay grade. From my comprehension (or lack of), the reballing of the RSX/Cell was heating those problematic caps and inadvertently "restoring capacitance" for an undetermined time and so the solder itself is actually okay. I think just directly replacing those specific caps is the only thing needed?
The NEC/TOKIN Capacitors have the serial number 0E128 - 1200uF "Phat Models" and 0E108 "Slim Models" - 1000uF Capacitance respectively.
Pic of the fix hereThe problem with the use of these Capacitors on the PlayStation3 is that they are 8 "Phats" and 4 "Slim", and they work in tandem to filtre and provide the necessary current to the RSX and CELL, and if one out of the four NEC/TOKIN fails on either of the chipsets, there is a current disruption,which means the Capacitence needed to feed either the CELL or RSX is below the required, thus YLOD.
You did! I commented before clicking through to and reading the linked thread, and I deleted my post because the linked thread cleared up my question.Gunstar wrote:Edit: thought I saw another post here!
That would be far more work than just replacing a few caps. Not to mention hundreds of percent higher cost.nmalinoski wrote:Gunstar wrote:And, secondly, how feasible would it be to turn this fix into a QSB, with solder points for the four caps and a built-in bridge for the positive contacts, that can just be slapped in? Is there enough clearance for something like that?
It's not just replacing a few caps; you also need one or two shunts to bridge the positive contacts on either side of the negative pad(s) in the middle.DejahThoris wrote:That would be far more work than just replacing a few caps. Not to mention hundreds of percent higher cost.nmalinoski wrote:And, secondly, how feasible would it be to turn this fix into a QSB, with solder points for the four caps and a built-in bridge for the positive contacts, that can just be slapped in? Is there enough clearance for something like that?
Apologies. I was on mobile when I'd read it, and couldn't get the link to load. I was just going off of the first post!nmalinoski wrote:It's not just replacing a few caps; you also need one or two shunts to bridge the positive contacts on either side of the negative pad(s) in the middle.DejahThoris wrote:That would be far more work than just replacing a few caps. Not to mention hundreds of percent higher cost.nmalinoski wrote:And, secondly, how feasible would it be to turn this fix into a QSB, with solder points for the four caps and a built-in bridge for the positive contacts, that can just be slapped in? Is there enough clearance for something like that?
Assuming it would clear the heatsink/EM shield, I imagine a QSB would be easier, cleaner, and faster to install and remove; and adding a dollar or two (assuming very small batches) to the BOM would be negligible for most people.
If you never opened up your Sony repaird PS3, then yes you are at risk of it happening. 1, the thermal paste they used is garbage. It cracks and breaks contact after 2 years. At least open it up and put something decent on it! Youtube is your friend. 2 you need to blow out the dust often to keep it from thermal error (red light). I got one from the Goodwill for $20 like five 4 years ago because no one ever blew the the dust out. Opened, cleand, replaced thermal paste...Easy fix. Works great with no hassles ever since.nmalinoski wrote:...I have a CECHE (80GB backwards-compatible) PS3 that has previously YLoDed and has been repaired by Sony. I haven't yet opened it, so I don't know what's been done to it, and I have no idea if it's at risk of YLoDing again. Would someone like me need this as preventative maintenance?
Thanks for the impressions, that sounds like a really difficult fix to even attempt for me! Hopefully, it'll be a solution worth pursuing for YLODs and someone will create a PCB to make it easier. There's still not a lot of concrete info about how effective this might be and it seems you still might have GPU failures or excessive heat that requires de-liding of certain chips.RIP-Felix wrote:I decided to pick up a CECHA01 listed as YLOD.
Having personally installed my own UltraHDMI and DCHDMI, they're really not that bad; you just need to use small amounts of flux, a very small amount of solder, and use the drag soldering technique. The worst, most difficult parts of those installs, for me, were the case modifications; the soldering tends to be the quick and easy part.RIP-Felix wrote:I would consider this a difficult mod. I think I'm at hobbyist level soldering skill, closer to intermediate than novice, but this tested me. The ultraHDMI and DCHDMI were easier. If this works someone should consider making a PCB that you can more easily solder the tantalum Caps to, then solder that to the pads on the PS3. Soldering them in at an angle is a PITA...and that ground plane is harsh.
I have a CECHE PS3 that I've used as a space heater in the past. Living in the northeast, where the winters are harsh and central air is unfortunately rare, it definitely helped. (I also have an ATI Radeon HD 4870 X2 that warms a room just as well.)BONKERS wrote:I had my MGS4 80GB reballed years ago. Not long after with regular use it YLOD again. After that I let it sit for a few years. I've used it a few times in the last year for PS2 games and no issues with short use. But boy does it get hot.
You don't even have to drag-solder. I do a 'drag outward' from each pin and it solders up just fine.nmalinoski wrote: Having personally installed my own UltraHDMI and DCHDMI, they're really not that bad; you just need to use small amounts of flux, a very small amount of solder, and use the drag soldering technique. The worst, most difficult parts of those installs, for me, were the case modifications; the soldering tends to be the quick and easy part.
I must have my terms confused; that is what I was referring to. It made for a quick install for both mods.FBX wrote:You don't even have to drag-solder. I do a 'drag outward' from each pin and it solders up just fine.nmalinoski wrote: Having personally installed my own UltraHDMI and DCHDMI, they're really not that bad; you just need to use small amounts of flux, a very small amount of solder, and use the drag soldering technique. The worst, most difficult parts of those installs, for me, were the case modifications; the soldering tends to be the quick and easy part.
Agreed, they were relatively easy with the right equipment, a little experience, and a solid pair. The reason I mentioned them is because they are listed as moderate to difficult to install, to encourage novices to seek an installer I gather. This is less forgiving and I would really think twice about it unless you have nothing to loose or are experienced with an iron. I have little to loose (paid $40) and much to gain. At the very least I'm paying for the educational experience, which is really my goal here. But who knows, I might just fix it...nmalinoski wrote: Having personally installed my own UltraHDMI and DCHDMI, they're really not that bad; you just need to use small amounts of flux, a very small amount of solder, and use the drag soldering technique. The worst, most difficult parts of those installs, for me, were the case modifications; the soldering tends to be the quick and easy part.
Once removed, a T12-C4 tip with the KSGER iron had enough mass and surface area to clean the pads with braid. Much easier with the right tip! I couldn't find a good T-12 tip for soldering the Tantalums in, it's very easy to get a cold solder joint. So I went back to a ceramic iron. The tips have more mass and a medium chisel tip did the job. It was still difficult finding the right angle, but it powered through the ground plane better than my T-12 tips. Not great, but better. It's still very tedious work. Unfortunately it didn't pay off for me.
