


There is no such option in it's menu thoughH6rdc0re wrote:In the menu you'll have to set the output to RGB and not Component. This is the only way to get RGBS from the sockets with external sync. You can either pick RGB or Component not both at the same time.
Err, it does show the lit buttons in the photosFinalBaton wrote:I had the 13" North American version of this monitor (1354Q).
The buttons you gotta push aren't that obvious. For sure you need the "A/RGB" face button lit and the "external sync" face button lit. Once you have that, press the "line/RGB" face button(try both of its positions). One of them will be what you're looking for.
yeah but maybe he didn't try the "line/RGB" button turned off while the other two are turned onbuttersoft wrote: Err, it does show the lit buttons in the photos
If i understand you correctly, that my PS2 needs to be set to RGB and not YPbPr, then I'm unable to get stable image this way at all, no matter what I do. It works in component mode, but that's kinda obvious, right?buttersoft wrote: If no cable you can directly lay hands on gives you a stable RGBS image with the PS2 set to output RGBS (try to remove all other devices from the signal chain if possible) then you should try to test the ext.sync input itself. Take your component cable from the running PS2 and plug the green RCA jack into the composite input of line A with no other devices in the middle. Set line A on and line/RGB off, and ext.sync off - you should get a stable B&W image. Now take that green cable and plug it into the ext.sync input and hit only the ext.sync button on the front, leave line A on and line/RGB off. Does anything happen? Do you get a no-sync message? How about if you plug the red or blue RCA jack into the line A input at the time?
Everything stable and green, but when I hit RGBS, picture goes wild, and when I add line B/component, it becomes purple, but still unstabe.buttersoft wrote:EDIT: oh, and try setting up a component picture and then hitting the line A/RGB button. Everything stable but now the picture is green? How about setting up RGBS like one of the top two photos, then hitting line B/component. The image should be purple, IIRC, but is it stable?
With "line/RGB" on, picture goes wild, and when it's off, there's no picture at all, just black screen.FinalBaton wrote:I had the 13" North American version of this monitor (1354Q).
The buttons you gotta push aren't that obvious. For sure you need the "A/RGB" face button lit and the "external sync" face button lit. Once you have that, press the "line/RGB" face button(try both of its positions). One of them will be what you're looking for.
The "when i hit RGBS" part confuses me. You aren't changing cables between YPbPr and RGBS, right? So if you have a stable yPbPr signal up, you should have 3 BNCs plugged into the PVM (ignore audio for now). When you hit RGBS the screen goes green. All good so far. Leave the screen green. Then..verden wrote:Everything stable and green, but when I hit RGBS, picture goes wild, and when I add line B/component, it becomes purple, but still unstabe...With "line/RGB" on, picture goes wild, and when it's off, there's no picture at all, just black screen.
I meant changing output from YPbPr to RGB in PS2 menu.buttersoft wrote: The "when i hit RGBS" part confuses me. You aren't changing cables between YPbPr and RGBS, right? So if you have a stable yPbPr signal up, you should have 3 BNCs plugged into the PVM (ignore audio for now). When you hit RGBS the screen goes green. All good so far. Leave the screen green. Then..
That's exactly what happens. Well, the flickering changes a bit, with ext.sync button on it flickers all around, with off - only vertically with slight horizontal movement. I also tried this config - PS2 set to YPbPr, red BNC connected to red input, blue BNC to blue input and green to sync input and ext.sync on - the image is stable, but dark. When I switch ext.sync off, it goes wild and NO SYNC appears. When i turn console into RGB output, it goes wild and becomes pink/violet tinted.buttersoft wrote: You plug the c-syc BNC into the PVM's ext.sync connector on the rear, go into the PS2 menus and set it to RGBS, the screen goes crazy. Then you hit the ext.sync button on the front of the PVM... and nothing happens, the screen doesn't sync, right?
I've got official Sony component cable, I just need to get some RCA-BNC adapters. I've also ordered a VGA to BNC cable to see how it looks with my Kuro Plus set to output RGBS via VGA.buttersoft wrote:Get some cheap PS2 RCA component cables and some RCA-to-BNC adapters from ebay for less than $10 total and test as i described above. If the no sync message comes on screen with the Y line (green RCA plug) going into the ext.sync input and the ext.sync button pressed (try both light on and light off) then your ext.sync input is borked or the PS2 is. You can actually test this with any video source, any yellow-RCA-plug + adapter from a VCR player or PS3 or whatever, can be plugged into the ext.sync adapter to try this.
The Dreamcast (and, by extension, the Behar Bros breakout boxes) output clean sync; whereas the PS2 will not without a hardware modification.verden wrote:Edit: VGA to BNC cable arrived, i set my Kuro Plus to output RGBS via VGA, connected the white BNC to sync input, turned ext sync on and it works! But what does it mean anyway?
Okay, but doesn't the whole situation mean that the culprits are my SCART-BNC adapters, like both are wired wrong and a simple mod would make any of them work? Tbh I'd like to stay with Hydra, as It's already past return period and it won't be so easy to sell it, at least not where I live. I mean, my Kuro Plus works with VGA-BNC cable, but does not with SCART-BNC one in exactly same setting, so it could mean that something is wrong with the cable, and because of it both consoles are acting weird.nmalinoski wrote:The Dreamcast (and, by extension, the Behar Bros breakout boxes) output clean sync; whereas the PS2 will not without a hardware modification.verden wrote:Edit: VGA to BNC cable arrived, i set my Kuro Plus to output RGBS via VGA, connected the white BNC to sync input, turned ext sync on and it works! But what does it mean anyway?
Since the Dreamcast works, and the PS2 doesn't, it sounds to me like your monitor really only wants clean composite sync on the EXT Sync input when using RGBS, which would mean you'll need a sync stripper between your PS2 and the monitor.
What I would recommend would depend on what you want and what your budget is. If you're not going to go down the everything-SCART route that a lot of people have taken, you can get a CSync cable with a DE-15/VGA from Retro-Access and save a few dollars on a VGA to BNC adapter over a SCART to BNC adapter; if, instead, you intend to start going down the SCART rabbit hole at some point in the future, you can get a CSync cable with SCART on the end and use the SCART to BNC adapter you already have; otherwise, if you're ready for SCART-everything now, you can order a new gscartsw, which includes a built-in sync stripper (called Sync Regeneration), which would allow you to use your existing sync-on-luma cable, but you'd need to also pick up a different SCART to BNC adapter (male SCART).
I think you're right. (Sorry about the tangent.) SCART is (mostly) directional, so, if you somehow ended up buying a BNC to SCART adapter (specifically one without a directional switch, like the ones Retro Gaming Cables sells), and you're using it to adapt SCART to BNC, then it will act like sync is not connected. For sync, you should be able to get away with moving the sync wire from pin 19 to pin 20. If you're using audio from the SCART output, you'll probably also need to move the wires going to pins 1 and 3 to pins 2 and 6 respectively.verden wrote:Okay, but doesn't the whole situation mean that the culprits are my SCART-BNC adapters, like both are wired wrong and a simple mod would make any of them work? Tbh I'd like to stay with Hydra, as It's already past return period and it won't be so easy to sell it, at least not where I live. I mean, my Kuro Plus works with VGA-BNC cable, but does not with SCART-BNC one in exactly same setting, so it could mean that something is wrong with the cable, and because of it both consoles are acting weird.
Well, one of them was built to order, and the second one is from the guy who sold me my PVM. First one is glued, so I can't open it (the guy who made it glued it because he forgot to put the connector "nut" on cable before assembling it), and the second has only pin 20 wired.nmalinoski wrote:SCART is (mostly) directional, so, if you somehow ended up buying a BNC to SCART adapter (specifically one without a directional switch, like the ones Retro Gaming Cables sells), and you're using it to adapt SCART to BNC, then it will act like sync is not connected. For sync, you should be able to get away with moving the sync wire from pin 19 to pin 20. If you're using audio from the SCART output, you'll probably also need to move the wires going to pins 1 and 3 to pins 2 and 6 respectively.
For the record, that's what we were trying to test. Dim is ok in this case because you're not running any brightness info in tho the set. If you get stable picture up at some point using ext.sync, then the set is good, the PS2 is ok, and the problem is with your signal chain (or mb in this case, the cables).verden wrote:PS2 set to YPbPr, red BNC connected to red input, blue BNC to blue input and green to sync input and ext.sync on - the image is stable, but dark.
The question is: does only the scart-RGB cable need to be fixed, or both, as it seems my PVM accepts only CSYNC, and my PS2 to scart is wired for luma.buttersoft wrote:Now you know the ext.sync works fine, and that component works fine and the picture is nice, you know you're not wasting money fixing/replacing the cables for RGB
Your model takes Luma Sync and Sync over Composite just fine. No need for Composite Sync cables.verden wrote:The question is: does only the scart-RGB cable need to be fixed, or both, as it seems my PVM accepts only CSYNC, and my PS2 to scart is wired for luma.buttersoft wrote:Now you know the ext.sync works fine, and that component works fine and the picture is nice, you know you're not wasting money fixing/replacing the cables for RGB