shmups.system11.org

Composite I am assuming. I am using a cheap, generic cable to test but I have used them to test many other consoles (SNES RGB & N64 simple RGB from Borti) with no problem.

I'm hopefully installing an N64Advanced soon, but am not sure if I really need the filter add-on board or not.

Does anyone know if the systems with "stock" RGB output (e.g. SNES, Mega Drive, Saturn, PS1) have a LPF on the video encoder output? Basically I just want to make the N64's RGB output match the stock RGB systems I already own, so that the N64 is not the odd one out.

Hiya I'm not sure about those consoles you listed but I can tell you I got a better picture with the filter board add on. Without it I had very faint jailbars in line 22 and line 3 mode.
I'm not sure if that would be the same on all consoles?
If you want I have a spare filter add on pcb I can mail you?
Would just cost you postage (prob's be nout much)

I got the video noise and managed to get the regulator board. But I just need some quick clarification.

I get soldering on the switch (bottom side) but for the 3.3v wire do I solder that into the VCC part of the RGB board? Do I leave the GND and the rest as is? I got my N64 ready and I need some guidance on fixing the noise. I'm kind of a noob when it comes to soldering as I got my N64 ready made. If someone can help clarify how to install it would be great.

Question for all the RGB board pros out there. I’m really noob at this kind of stuff so bear with me please. I soldered a wire between “A” and “G” on my Tim worthington RGB board. It’s from 2017 so it should have the de-blur firmware. I feel like the system looks clearer, but I can’t seem to switch back and forth between deblur on or off with the button presses. Did I do something wrong or is it a firmware thing or something. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

You need bortis IGR firmware for Tim's board.

I thought it came pre-installed if purchased after 2016. I got it mid-2017.

I dont think it comes pre-installed on any of Tim's boards?

His website says “N64RGB board. Hardware version 1.2, software version 1.2 (includes de-blur feature). ”. If it says “includes deblur feature” doesn’t that mean you just gotta solder it on? If not, how do I flash the Bortis IGR firmware?

Yes but only borti's branch of the firmware with IGR allows for controller combos to enable/disable deblur.

Tim's default version requires you to use a physical switch to enable/disable deblur:-
https://etim.net.au/n64rgb/

There is probably a way you could upgrade the board with borti's IGR firmware and connect a wire to the N64 motherboards controller data signal, but its not a feature of the default firmware.

So how do I go about flashing firmware to the board?

Flashing firmware:-
https://etim.net.au/n64rgb/tech/

Borti's github has the details on which jumpers/pins to use, and the relevant firmware:-
https://github.com/borti4938/n64rgb/blo ... viletim.md
https://github.com/borti4938/n64rgb/tre ... es/viletim
https://github.com/borti4938/n64rgb/raw ... N64RGB.pdf

I’m not great at understanding electronics, but how can his firmware REQUIRE a switch? That doesn’t make sense to me. If the 2 pads are bridged, the circuit is closed and the deblur should be off right? Even without a switch. How could it require a switch to detect that the circuit is closed.

Your original query was about button combos, which is what people were answering. If you want to toggle it from the controller, you need the "IGR" (in-game routines) firmware.

You can lock the de-blur on or off without a switch as you say, but if you leave it off there is no de-blur at all and if you leave it on some games will look strange.

Ah I gotcha. Thanks. I’ll be putting the switch in soon. I think flashing the firmware sounds out of my league.

Just a suggestion, but if your going to fit a manual switch maybe use a small slide switch that can fit through the side air vents on the N64, and then fix it in place with hot glue. This way if you ever change your mind in the future your case will still be unmodified and you can easily remove the switch. As an example here is a region switch in a GameCube

Sure thing! Do you have a link to a good one on amazon or some other site? And is there a certain amp and voltage rating I need?

I think you just need anything that will open and close it. signal is very low power here. use mouser.com or digikey as they have filtering searches for you to choose a size and form factor

here's one that's tiny. 2.4mm wide by 2.5mm high: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/ ... ND/1051311

it's rated at .4VA and up to 28V. i guess someone could chime in about what is pushing through this, but even if the signal is 3.5V, that means it can handle 114 mV of current.

I'm interested in buying a N64 with borti's N64RGB Advanced board since I don't have the skills to do it myself. Anybody knows if unmaker is still available?

If they become available again, I'd also like to register my intention to snag one of Borti's board, whether it's the basic v2 or advanced board.

I sincerely apologize for anyone that might have been waiting for me to assemble any of these. I slacked off hard. I will have at least 6 assembled by the end of this week and will do the rest in the following days after. I will only be doing 20 of these at the moment but may do more if there's demand for it.

I'd love to purchase one if there's a slot open.

Where can I find any scans at all showing the process of wiring the A and G to a switch?
I tried with a wedged thingy switch (That releases as soon as you lift your finger from pressing, had to use what I had) to solder a wire from A to the bottom row and G to the top row. But apparently I did something horrendous as the power adapter somehow broke? First I thought my whole build had went on holiday as it wouldn't power on, but later tried it on another system and that proved to be powerless as well.

Was it due to the switch itself this happened or are you supposed to solder the A and G in a different way?
As I really can't find anything of a tutorial regarding this I'm finally reaching out here, couldn't even find anything on Youtube nor does Etim's guide explain this more into detail except that the chip does have deblur waiting to be enabled.

Hi,
I have an extra, if you still need one, send me a pm. (I’m from europe, but can post it anywhere.

why does sync from the vdc-nus have to go to the cart? why does the cartridge need sync

huge respect to the OP for this. i really do see the huge difference on a PVM. combined with AA removal it breathes new life into the n64.

For others that may want to purchase a N64 Advanced from me please post here:

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=65401

I don't want to turn this into a selling thread. I have one left at the moment but will have 10 more assembled eventually.

So, “direct mode” on the ultrahdmi. How much lag does this mode eliminate?

It's supposed to bypass the scaler, so I would imagine it would be effectively lagless, but remember the tradeoff is going to be HDMI blackouts during video mode changes and potential incompatibilities with the refresh rates and 240p/480i over HDMI.

Yup, I know it’s lagless but what is the lag when not in direct mode?