Joking of course. Those are both very interesting points.
There are a few modern TV sets (perhaps all from LG) with SCART inputs which flickers badly on the RGB signal from the NESRGB. It's rare though. I've got about 10 complaints in the past 5 years.leonk wrote:I’ve installed NESRGB since first version back at the end of 2013 and tested multiple versions on PVM, XRGB mini and OSSC at 5X on my Samsung TV. I don’t recall ever seeing issues nor have any of the hundreds of customer installs I’ve done reported any issues.
This dejitter in 2.0 sounds interesting. Would someone playing on PVM even notice an issue? (I assume no) How does one go about “seeing” the issue on OSSC? (perior to me modding to test on one of my spare nesrgb pcbs I want to make sure I can “see” the before fix)
From what I heard from Tim, he's using a new set for this revision and Smooth is one of them. YUV is another, and I'm not sure what the 3rd one is. I've heard PVM D93 and Sony palettes mentioned.sofakng wrote:Is it possible to toggle the dejitter option on/off with a toggle switch?
Also, any idea if Tim will create NESRGB 1.4 special dejitter firmware with the FirebrandX Smooth palette? It looks like it comes with Unsaturated-V6 only. (because the palette switch pins are repurposed for dejitter)
I believe so from what he told me. He said he would recreate all 11 firmwares, but perhaps I misunderstood and he meant only for the new revisions.sofakng wrote:Here is the software errata/change logs for the NESRGB firmware: http://etim.net.au/nesrgb/background_fault/
The latest NESRGB 2.0 board palettes (firmware v2.1) are:
Sony CXA (unknown origin?)
Smooth (Firebrandx November 2017)
YUV (Nestopia 2013)
However, Tim created dejitter firmware that is compatible with the older NESRGB 1.3/1.4 boards, but the only available palette is the Unsaturated V6 version. I was hoping he will create a new firmware (for these older NESRGB 1.3/1.4 boards) but using your newer Smooth palette.
I have a BVM-A20F1U and just installed the dejitter mod on my SNES last night. If you know what to look for, you can notice a slight flicker at the top of the screen w/o the mod. Though, now that I know it's there, I can't not see it. It's WAY more subtle than on my OSSC/HDTV where I get this:leonk wrote:This dejitter in 2.0 sounds interesting. Would someone playing on PVM even notice an issue? (I assume no) How does one go about “seeing” the issue on OSSC? (perior to me modding to test on one of my spare nesrgb pcbs I want to make sure I can “see” the before fix)
My SCART cable doesn't have a 470 ohm resistor on the CSYNC line. Is this OK and correct?Palette pad 1 is the new, corrected sync output. You must use this signal instead of V, Y, CS#, PPUV to get the benefit of the de-jitter feature. The 430 ohm series resistor already on the board makes its suitable to connect directly to a 75 ohm sync input.
You have the 8 pin mini DIN output on the back. Plug your NES SCART cable into that.Taiyaki wrote:Can someone remind me how to get scart RGB out of a NESRGB modded Nes again? It's been so many years I haven't done it I forget how (been using S-video since 2015). I think I recall having to go Mini Din + 2rca for audio into a scart cable, is this correct?
Here's a pic of the back of my NES from back when Pasky did this beautiful mod on my system.
Does it carry the audio as well?ldeveraux wrote:You have the 8 pin mini DIN output on the back. Plug your NES SCART cable into that.Taiyaki wrote:Can someone remind me how to get scart RGB out of a NESRGB modded Nes again? It's been so many years I haven't done it I forget how (been using S-video since 2015). I think I recall having to go Mini Din + 2rca for audio into a scart cable, is this correct?
Here's a pic of the back of my NES from back when Pasky did this beautiful mod on my system.
If your 8-pin DIN connector was wired to carry audio, then yes.Taiyaki wrote:Does it carry the audio as well?ldeveraux wrote:You have the 8 pin mini DIN output on the back. Plug your NES SCART cable into that.Taiyaki wrote:Can someone remind me how to get scart RGB out of a NESRGB modded Nes again? It's been so many years I haven't done it I forget how (been using S-video since 2015). I think I recall having to go Mini Din + 2rca for audio into a scart cable, is this correct?
Here's a pic of the back of my NES from back when Pasky did this beautiful mod on my system.
Is that a recent practice to do this? From what I remember back in 2014 the audio used to be separate but I could be wrong. Is there any reason to not connect the audio to the Din connector? I don't think mine was connected because I remember even Tim used to sell these RGB kits for users to build that would hook it up to both the Din and the audio, maybe this has changed since then.nmalinoski wrote:If your 8-pin DIN connector was wired to carry audio, then yes.
Tim's installation guide has audio on a separate connector to avoid interference, so I assume most people followed that. I myself connected it to 8 pin DIN because I didn't want 2 output connectors. Works fine for me, everyone can do whatever they prefer.Taiyaki wrote:Is that a recent practice to do this? From what I remember back in 2014 the audio used to be separate but I could be wrong. Is there any reason to not connect the audio to the Din connector? I don't think mine was connected because I remember even Tim used to sell these RGB kits for users to build that would hook it up to both the Din and the audio, maybe this has changed since then.nmalinoski wrote:If your 8-pin DIN connector was wired to carry audio, then yes.
There are 2 ways to find out; try a NES SCART cable, or open 'er up! It's not that hard to connect audio to the mini DIN if it's not IIRC.Taiyaki wrote:Is that a recent practice to do this? From what I remember back in 2014 the audio used to be separate but I could be wrong. Is there any reason to not connect the audio to the Din connector? I don't think mine was connected because I remember even Tim used to sell these RGB kits for users to build that would hook it up to both the Din and the audio, maybe this has changed since then.nmalinoski wrote:If your 8-pin DIN connector was wired to carry audio, then yes.
I mean, sure, but you should definitely open the NES and take a look first to see how it was soldered. It could be any of the scenarios I outlined above, so you wouldn't want to purchase the wrong $40 cable before at least confirming your mod.Taiyaki wrote:I see, makes sense. I don't mind the audio being separate, I just have to ask for a custom made csync cable for 8din with stereo rca from Retro Access I guess. Problem I had last time was that the cable she made didn't work and the return process got stuck in limbo where I wasn't receiving replies from her on ebay (this was around 5 years ago now). I don't even remember if the cable she made was csync, whatever it was was giving me a black and white picture with a buzz. I'll be more specific and hopefully this time around I finally get to pull out RGB from the console.
Will do. Problem is I'm not a modder myself so I wouldn't know if anything's wrong, but maybe I can compare with someone's else's mod through pictures available online. I'd be surprised if it were modded wrong as Pasky has always done amazing work on all mods he's done for me.ldeveraux wrote:Taiyaki wrote:I mean, sure, but you should definitely open the NES and take a look first to see how it was soldered. It could be any of the scenarios I outlined above, so you wouldn't want to purchase the wrong $40 cable before at least confirming your mod.
There would be nothing wrong per se, and maybe I'm getting too nit picky about this. You just need to identify to where the audio routes so you know which cable to purchase (if the RGB video works at allTaiyaki wrote:Will do. Problem is I'm not a modder myself so I wouldn't know if anything's wrong, but maybe I can compare with someone's else's mod through pictures available online. I'd be surprised if it were modded wrong as Pasky has always done amazing work on all mods he's done for me.ldeveraux wrote:Taiyaki wrote:I mean, sure, but you should definitely open the NES and take a look first to see how it was soldered. It could be any of the scenarios I outlined above, so you wouldn't want to purchase the wrong $40 cable before at least confirming your mod.
). Audio clearly passes to the RCA ports as you've been using them successfully. Follow those wires back to determine if audio was also passed to the DIN port. My guess is that it's not, and they system was designed to be used with the cable I linked to earlier. But it would be nice to know at least!I went back in my message inbox to look at communications I had with Pasky from 5 years ago, and surely enough he guided me to Viletim's site for the RGB cable which had audio on the separate line, so the audio is most likely not on the Din 8 pin. He also specified he set it up to work with csync. Now looking at the cable I had which was giving me video problems, it's a composite video scart cable, maybe that's the problem?ldeveraux wrote:There would be nothing wrong per se, and maybe I'm getting too nit picky about this. You just need to identify to where the audio routes so you know which cable to purchase (if the RGB video works at all
1) If your installer followed Tim Worthington's guide exactly, then yeah, you would see audio provided by the TRS jack, in which case you would need a cable with an 8-pin DIN plus a TRS dongle to get both audio and video onto the SCART cable. If Retro-Access doesn't already sell something like this, then they can certainly make one for you (Unmodified Genesis/MD needs this sort of setup to get stereo audio).Taiyaki wrote:I went back in my message inbox to look at communications I had with Pasky from 5 years ago, and surely enough he guided me to Viletim's site for the RGB cable which had audio on the separate line, so the audio is most likely not on the Din 8 pin. He also specified he set it up to work with csync. Now looking at the cable I had which was giving me video problems, it's a composite video scart cable, maybe that's the problem?ldeveraux wrote:There would be nothing wrong per se, and maybe I'm getting too nit picky about this. You just need to identify to where the audio routes so you know which cable to purchase (if the RGB video works at all
Either that or it was a voltage issue on the cable I'm thinking.
