Bang and Olufsen LE6000 power pop!

[Initial-d]

I have a B&O LE6000 which was originally my dads and owned from new in the 90’s.
It’s developed a fault whereby when you turn it on it will pop with a visible spark from below, the power light returns to standby, sometimes it will then power on or pop again.

If it turns on, it normally works fine, on one occasion after 20mins it popped and returned to standby.

What do think it would be? I’ve had the back off and dusted so it’s not arcing, I think it could possibly be a dry solder joint? But thought I’d ask in case someone else had a similar issue.

Reason I ask is that I went from this to an MX6000, but I think the image is slightly better on the LE6000, both have the non-adjustable PHILIPS tubes (arghh!) although still far from perfect in terms of geometry and alignment. I like a bigger screen as most of the larger PVM’s are hard to come by or very expensive! I had a BVM 20F1E but found it too small and the TVL was too great making it look too much like an emulator, but the Trinitron picture is certainly nicer than the B&O shadow mask which looks smeared and soft by comparison.

[gray117]

Not familiar: I'd presume something flyback transformer related given it's presumably louder than a degaus gone wrong or something. Did the spark position relate to a component or did you mean a kind of flash/collapse on the screen.

...its probably going to be neigh on impossible to fix beyond a swap replacement :/

[Initial-d]

The flash was from below the set, visible through some of the vents on the base. Nothing appears on screen when it happens. It’s a loud crack/pop noise when it occurs. It never blows the fuse or appears to break the set as it will work most of the time, it has the issue approx 1 in 10 times.

I can’t see any leaking caps, but perhaps there is a board or solder problem with a component involved in the power up process. I’ve yet to find a pdf of the schematics to trace the issue, it’s a bit different internally to the MX range.

[gray117]

Be aware capacitors/transformers (especially if damaged) can retain a charge even when unplugged.

Yeah I've no idea on model specifics but it's likely to be related to the flyback transformer even if not actually the unit itself: usually towards the back and mounted on the bottom of the set due to (relative) size.

I wouldn't advise messing with it unless you know what you're doing, or necessarily using this set at all as it is. This might seem over the top, but you've got a clear symptom of something failing here on a fairly high wattage bit of kit.

This transformer is responsible for the extremely high voltage that causes the beam to 'fly back' and forth across your screen. You might find it is something like a cracked path, loose wire or broken solder joint - particularly wherever your power comes in, and/or is connected to a (relay) switch... [none of which is good news anyway if you can't easily see the problem] ... It's just that when there's like a part with 20,000 (+?) volts knocking around specifically it makes for a good suspect for sparks, and a prime candidate for causing you grief

If it is related to your transformer the further bad news is even when you do know what you're doing replacing/repairing the transformer may be difficult, or nearly impossible, if the transistor(s) within are no longer made... which appears to be the case for many crt circuits ... and aside from the tubes themselves, probably the second biggest problem in regards to keeping crts going.

[Initial-d]

Thanks for the lengthy reply, it outlines what I feared about the set!
I haven’t used it for a few months and as you said I’d rather not risk harm continuing to use it.
Looks like I’ll have to retire it for good.

[Syntax]

Easy fix cause you saw a spark

Now open the set and look for a black burnt out area, probably a dry solder joint on the AC input or fkyback.

If it works it works

[Initial-d]

Well I’ll have a look and hopefully find something that’s got a burnt area.