Sony BA-5D/BA-5 Chassis TV RGB Mod with OSD Mix

[mgerety]

For #1, that should be it for the blanking circult, except there are some bug differences between BA-5D and BA-5.

On the BA-5D, pin 40 traces through one resistor (r377) and a coil, L304, then to a jumper.

On 5A-5, Pin40 (ys2, blanking) traces through R263,then through what looks to be marked R337 AND C026 before hitting a jumper right next to c026. I don't know enough about electronics to give you any feedback as to how many ohms your blanking wire would be. But I'd always prefer to go in through a jumper if at all possible. Makes life so easy.

MARKOZLAD: can you give any feedback as to whether that jumper can be used, and what needs to be added to the 5v to use it?



Note:
R263 is 100ohm resistor
R337 is 2.2kohm resistor
Being that 2.2kohm is exactly what i used for my 5v/blanking line, does that mean he can just inject a 5v source directly to the jumper in the image above?




However, on the bright side, the jumpers for R, G, and B are directly next to the jumper for your blanking wire, so that makes that pretty damn easy.


For 2: Not sure, as I'm from the US and not that familiar with SCART. I don't know why you'd want/need composite video if you're doing RGB, unless composite video input carries CSYNC, then I'd say yes, that'll work, and looks correct.

For 3: Correct, if you are using the mod board design I did.

For 4: That is correct, yes. YOU are controlling blanking on this TV with the SPST switch.

[Sammickk]

I'm from the US as well, I chose scart cause I buy the fully shielded cables from retro gaming cables in UK. They make nice cables and I just so happen to get lucky with an Akai Brand Tv that was primarily sold in Europe and had an unused scart port on its motherboard lol All i had to do basically was wire up a scart port. So all my modded consoles are just set up to use straight scart cables.

I'm running my sync on composite, so thats why I've got that on there, i thought this was normally how you do it? (lol) Where did you pull your sync from?

I already tapped the leg of the diode like mark said in the original post of instructions, but damn yea that jumper woulda been allot easier!
the jumper near the jungle should be fine to use i think because on the OSD Chip it comes AFTER the the two diodes on the full RGB and Half Tone RGB lines. (If i understand how diodes work, they only let electricity flow one way. Am I right mark?)

[MarkOZLAD]

Composite ground (sync ground) is pin 17. There are some erroneous pinouts on the net.

There is only one inbound sync pin on Scart, the Scart standard is to run Composite video. Other syncs are used due to different capabilities of the source or due to finding cleaner results from luma or csync but will still be delivered on the same Scart pin.

Ground the R, G and B grounds. You can run one big ground wire to all the ground pins (maybe keep audio separate).

Because you are using the switch you can ignore the blanking pins on the Scart port.

Yes, the diodes will prevent the flow of electricity in one direction.

PS: I am away on holidays so hard for me to review schematics etc. in general if there is a jumper on the circuit we want to use it if it is in the equivalent part of the circuit.

[Sammickk]

Well I fired it up and it works but the color seems a bit off and a little washed out. Any suggestions on what to check?
I/'ll post some pics in a little while, comparing my Akai to it. actually now that I think about it.. it looks like the contrast is turned down to low , ya know where black looks grey and colors are washed out a bit.

also, what is the switch suppose to actually do because my game can kinda be seen no matter which way the switch is flipped. only difference is i can only see the game through the spots where the menu is when its on screen otherwise it is all black. when its in rgb mode i can faintly faintly see the OSD menus, though not well enough to use the menus.

[Sammickk]

Ok here are quite a few images

1. Akai RGB/scart with menu brought up. Nice and vibrant

Spoiler

2. Akai RGB/Scart, beautiful picture!

Spoiler

3.Sony/Composite using video port 2, hooked up with standard yellow/red/white cable. Color seems normal

Spoiler

4. Sony/forced RGB Color washed out, blacks are greys, no menu really visible at all. If you look closely beside the red Mario text you can see the "Video" ever so faintly. That's all the the menu shows through when forced into RGB.

Spoiler

5.Sony/RGB Switch Flipped

Spoiler

I'm very close, but somethings not quite right. looking at the pictures through those screens... it kinda looks like im complaining about nothing lol but trust me, in person, its very noticeable! the composite feed though video 2 is a much more color acurate picture, while the RGB is like the contrast is turned to far up/down whichever way turns blacks to grey...

Also again the image is shifted severely to the left.

[MarkOZLAD]

Did you remove R1084, R1085 and R1086?

When you unplug the Scart and input Composite does the OSD work as per normal?

[MarkOZLAD]

The left shift is normal and has to be altered in service menu.

[Pikkon]

If your tv has s-video or component then use that as sync as will correct the shifted image.

[MarkOZLAD]

That’s never worked for me on Australian models but worth a try.

[Sammickk]

Did you remove R1084, R1085 and R1086?

When you unplug the Scart and input Composite does the OSD work as per normal?

1. Yea I removed them but instead of placing the new 1100 ohm resisters on the rgb jumper lines with the 75 ohm resistors i put them on the jumpers JUST BEFORE where they originally were and tied each resister to each line then ran one big wire on for ALL 3 on the ground side to a single ground point. If you look back on your original write up on your instructions for the bA-5, those jumpers you see before the resistors I removed,.. connect to them. I checked them with multimeter. I'm assuming this wouldn't have caused a problem would it? as the schematic doesn't list anthing between that point and the jungle chip except the .01 capacitors.

2. OSD Sorta works normal.... I'll show you what I mean. See the pics

Looks a tiny bit dim but otherwise normal on a black screen.

Spoiler

This is how it looks when playing the game on video 2 with composite hookups... don't think this is right. (yes its nearly black!) it should look the same as my first pic right?

Spoiler

pic of "stuck" video Label on screen. not sure why this won't go away...

Spoiler

And about the screen shift i figured I could fix that in service mode, I've ordered a tv remote for this tv from ebay and its coming but I probably wont see it till after christmas.

[Sammickk]

For #1, that should be it for the blanking circult, except there are some bug differences between BA-5D and BA-5.

On the BA-5D, pin 40 traces through one resistor (r377) and a coil, L304, then to a jumper.

On 5A-5, Pin40 (ys2, blanking) traces through R263,then through what looks to be marked R337 AND C026 before hitting a jumper right next to c026. I don't know enough about electronics to give you any feedback as to how many ohms your blanking wire would be. But I'd always prefer to go in through a jumper if at all possible. Makes life so easy.

MARKOZLAD: can you give any feedback as to whether that jumper can be used, and what needs to be added to the 5v to use it?



Note:
R263 is 100ohm resistor
R337 is 2.2kohm resistor
Being that 2.2kohm is exactly what i used for my 5v/blanking line, does that mean he can just inject a 5v source directly to the jumper in the image above?




However, on the bright side, the jumpers for R, G, and B are directly next to the jumper for your blanking wire, so that makes that pretty damn easy.

Im confused.. Are you sure your looking at the right schematic? the resistor numbers your talking about are not on my board i have the Ba-5 chasis (sony kv-24fv12) service manual here http://go-gddq.com/upload/2010-04/10040915469189.pdf

Also i'm getting conflicting information on whether or not I should wire up the grouding lines on my scart port, one of you said no and one said yes lol. i thought like mgerety that i already grounded the rgb lines with that 75 ohm term that I wouldn't need to ground them again on the scart pin out, pins 13 ,9, and 5, I did wire them up anyway though... was i right to do this?

I'm currious if there something wrong with my blanking circuit... it should be identical to mgerety's correct? 5v to 2.2k resistor, to one of the outer legs of a switch? shouldnt matter which side right? as its either side 1 or side 2, and the ones from the leg of the diode goes to center.

[MarkOZLAD]

The 75 ohm termination of the RGB lines is completely seperate from the grounding of the R GND, G GND and B GND to the TV chassis.

[Sammickk]

The 75 ohm termination of the RGB lines is completely seperate from the grounding of the R GND, G GND and B GND to the TV chassis.

Ok that clears that up, did you see the previous post I did where I posted more pics and was asking about where I tied in my 1100 ohm resisters in at? I’m not sure if it mattered or not.

I just noticed something interesting, the tv dims when I go into my menu, on 8bit guys video he did something to disable that. Should the same be done here?

And something else I just noticed, when I’m in rgb mode I can barely barely see the odd menu, I never noticed that before but even outside of rgb mode my odd now is barely visible, different from the Pics I took the other night! It seams to be varying on me

[MarkOZLAD]

I am on holidays and therefore responding by phone. I have a lot more trouble following schematics and understanding and troubleshooting your implementation on a small screen.

The OSD being black when on Composite is the sign of an issue. It makes me think the grounding is somehow wrong on your RGB lines but I can’t be sure.

To use the OSD Mux method you should understand voltage division. Look it up and then think about your circuit.

For blanking. Perhaps try a potentiometer in place of the 2200 resistor.

[MarkOZLAD]

The circuit disabled in the 8 bit guy’s TV does not exist in yours.

[MarkOZLAD]

Can you take a photo of the 240p test suite showing the colour bars?

[Sammickk]

Can you take a photo of the 240p test suite showing the colour bars?

I have been playing with the picture controls and was able to get a decent picture. now my geometry is all sorts of warped, which I have to wait till I get that remote to start working on. second my OSD just completely not behaving lol. I like your idea of using an adjustable POT. like a 10k will do?
Here are the pics, i think everything looks good here, but I'm not entirely sure what your looking for so have a look.

Spoiler

[DRC]

So I picked up a KV-27FS12 the other day with a BA-5 chassis, turns out its different than the BA-5 chassis shown in this thread! I've gotta pick up some different resistors tomorrow, and I'll post back with my info and pictures for the mod. Seems stupid easy, and is done entirely on a small daughterboard.

Only downside is it seems this TV was tossed around a bit, one of the wedges for the yoke had fallen out and was sitting on the PCB, guess thats the next obstacle.



https://www.manualslib.com/manual/10555 ... 7fs12.html

[MarkOZLAD]

Very interesting!

It has the same jungle chip as the BA-5D - CXA2154s

The procedure should be very similar. The OSD circuit is nigh on identical.

OSD inlines are R025, R026, R027 5600 Ohms
OSD ground resistors are R086, R087 and R088 - ready for removal!
Caps are C352, C353 and C395 (I think..)

Would be cool if you could identify jumpers on these lines if there are any.

OSD Diodes are D003/D075. OSD Termination resistor is 3300 Ohms R004. 2200R on 5V line will be fine as per other sets.

Inline RGB resistors for OSD mux should be of value 910 Ohms. 1000 Ohms would likely be fine.

[DRC]

Very interesting!

It has the same jungle chip as the BA-5D - CXA2154s

The procedure should be very similar. The OSD circuit is nigh on identical.

OSD inlines are R025, R026, R027 5600 Ohms
OSD ground resistors are R086, R087 and R088 - ready for removal!
Caps are C352, C353 and C395 (I think..)

Would be cool if you could identify jumpers on these lines if there are any.

OSD Diodes are D003/D075. OSD Termination resistor is 3300 Ohms R004. 2200R on 5V line will be fine as per other sets.

Inline RGB resistors for OSD mux should be of value 910 Ohms. 1000 Ohms would likely be fine.

Jumpers for the RGB lines are as follows -
R - JW341
G - JW342
B - JW343

I got 5V from CN006 Pin 7, and blanking goes to the cathode of D003. Im sure there are top side jumpers that could be used but I didn't look.
I used 910Ohm inline resistors, 75Ohm terminations, and removed R086, R087 and R088. I hate surface mount components haha.

I wired everything up to molex connectors for easy case removal, and to use either VGA for a Dreamcast @15k, or a SCART connector if and when I get something that uses it.

Would switching sync to Luma on S-Video or Component fix the left shift of the image? I just wired to composite video as thats what I'd used on the other few TVs I had modded.

Pictures here -
https://imgur.com/a/lZTtECe

[MarkOZLAD]

Beautiful job!

Wiring sync to S-Video MAY help with left shift, John M on the CRT Collective used a BNC to S-Video adapter on his BA-4D chassis and it fixed his left shift. Otherwise you just use the service menu to move it.

[Pikkon]

Same thing on my sony if I use composite for sync.

S-video or component should work just fine .

[HellRazor]

Very interesting!

It has the same jungle chip as the BA-5D - CXA2154s

The procedure should be very similar. The OSD circuit is nigh on identical.

OSD inlines are R025, R026, R027 5600 Ohms
OSD ground resistors are R086, R087 and R088 - ready for removal!
Caps are C352, C353 and C395 (I think..)

Would be cool if you could identify jumpers on these lines if there are any.

OSD Diodes are D003/D075. OSD Termination resistor is 3300 Ohms R004. 2200R on 5V line will be fine as per other sets.

Inline RGB resistors for OSD mux should be of value 910 Ohms. 1000 Ohms would likely be fine.

Jumpers for the RGB lines are as follows -
R - JW341
G - JW342
B - JW343

I got 5V from CN006 Pin 7, and blanking goes to the cathode of D003. Im sure there are top side jumpers that could be used but I didn't look.
I used 910Ohm inline resistors, 75Ohm terminations, and removed R086, R087 and R088. I hate surface mount components haha.

I wired everything up to molex connectors for easy case removal, and to use either VGA for a Dreamcast @15k, or a SCART connector if and when I get something that uses it.

Would switching sync to Luma on S-Video or Component fix the left shift of the image? I just wired to composite video as thats what I'd used on the other few TVs I had modded.

Pictures here -
https://imgur.com/a/lZTtECe

Amazing its so cool that set with jungle and micro ics on a separate board

[CZroe]

So I picked up a KV-27FS12 the other day with a BA-5 chassis, turns out its different than the BA-5 chassis shown in this thread! I've gotta pick up some different resistors tomorrow, and I'll post back with my info and pictures for the mod. Seems stupid easy, and is done entirely on a small daughterboard.

Only downside is it seems this TV was tossed around a bit, one of the wedges for the yoke had fallen out and was sitting on the PCB, guess thats the next obstacle.



https://www.manualslib.com/manual/10555 ... 7fs12.html

Just got a funny-lookin’ BA-5 chassis KV-13FM14 myself. Doesn’t even have S-Video. Hopefully it’s not too different!
https://imgur.com/a/I05PRyy



Small, mono, composite/RF-only, but sharp and flat.

http://www.go-gddq.com/upload/2009_07/0 ... 369274.pdf
CXA2131AS on the Y/C JUNGLE “MB” board (rear vertical board)

Maybe I should add S-Video while I’m at it?

[HellRazor]

nice set you have there CZroe, cant wait to see some updates

[darknezz19]

I tried this on a KV-27FS12 today but just get a dark picture on the video inputs and when RGB switch is toggled it's just a dark screen. To clarify I need to remove the resistors R086 R087 R088(these terminate to ground) and then replace them with jumpers? Wouldn't that be a short to ground on the RGB lines at that point? Anyway I hooked my rgb with 920ohm in line to the jumpers and not sure what the problem is. I calculated 920ohms for the inline rgb lines, and the 2.2kohm was the same for the blanking line. Was I supposed to replace R086 R087 R088 with the 920ohms and then jump into the resistors? That would make more sense to me but I don't know a lot about electrical engineering. Thank you for your time.

jungle schematic
https://imgur.com/a/oOfGrEb

[DRC]

I tried this on a KV-27FS12 today but just get a dark picture on the video inputs and when RGB switch is toggled it's just a dark screen. To clarify I need to remove the resistors R086 R087 R088(these terminate to ground) and then replace them with jumpers? Wouldn't that be a short to ground on the RGB lines at that point? Anyway I hooked my rgb with 920ohm in line to the jumpers and not sure what the problem is. I calculated 920ohms for the inline rgb lines, and the 2.2kohm was the same for the blanking line. Was I supposed to replace R086 R087 R088 with the 920ohms and then jump into the resistors? That would make more sense to me but I don't know a lot about electrical engineering. Thank you for your time.

jungle schematic
https://imgur.com/a/oOfGrEb

I modded this exact set. You don't need to add jumpers where you have removed those surface mount resistors.

Pictures and info are in earlier in this thread.

[MarkOZLAD]

This has come up multiple times, I have no idea why, at no point did I say to put jumpers where the SMD resistors (OSD ground resistors) were removed. In fact they MUST NOT be jumpered, otherwise the signal will just go straight to ground.

[darknezz19]

Thanks DRC and MarkOZLAD for the write up. I get a picture now but it's way bright and colors are bleeding. Do I need to lower my inline resistor's values? I have about 930ohm in there across two resistors because that's all I could find at the time.

https://imgur.com/a/d3xKePr

Edit: Terminated RGB inputs with 100ohms and it's better, but still brighter than composite. I tested the two inline resistors and across both I'm getting something closer to 960ohms which puts my voltages levels at 0.77v is that too much?

Also the OSB is very faint, what could cause that?

Edit2: Oopsy, had 93ohms on the inline not 930. Got new ones in at about 900ohms and OSD is bright now, yay. DRC what termination resistance did you use one your RGB inputs. I'm still at 100ohms but still just too bright.

Edit3: tried 150ohms and I think it looks the same as 100omhs. Maybe I need to go down in resistance?

Top is composite bottom is rgb
https://imgur.com/a/9cxrqsC

[DRC]

I used 75ohm termination resistors on my RGB lines. I never bothered to test composite on this set honestly, as I'll never use it.