FinalBaton wrote:
FinalBaton wrote:
I just found an older(1988) PVM locally (PVM-1344Q) and it was very affordable ($50 CAD) so I snagged it. The picture looks very good but there's some ghosting of the reds (something I didn't notice when testing it out before buying). It leaves a very faint red trail towards the right, but it's a long trail. There are also some diagonal red lines, spaced 1 inch apart, that appear on black background. They are very visible when powering on the monitor, but fade a lot after a minute but are still there.(I have no idea what's up with that, that's the first time I ever see something like this)
Anyone have an idea of what's causing this and what are the repairs needed?
I tried a great variety of cables everywhere in the chain, many different sources and even tried it in different rooms(in case magnetic fields were the culprit). In the end, that trail is still there. So I think it's safe to say that the problem is really with the monitor. What could it be, is it what's refered to as "chroma-delay" or "Y delay"? or is it proper "ghosting"? Could a degaussing wand help here(I don't think I hear a click when I power on the monitor, the degaussing coil might not be working...). or am I looking at a recap job? and if so, which board needs said recap? (I hope it's not all of them cause that's a herculean task

)
I can't say it's very noticeable though, in fact it barely is. pretty much just on red areas that have a contrasting solid background next to them, and even then I really gotta squint to notice it (except on black blackgrounds, there it's more noticeable). But it's still in the back of my mind, you know? If it's not to hard to fix, I might give it a go. But yeah, not the end of the world either
Will try to snap a pic with my shitty phone camera
Thanks!
EDIT : here are some pics
so the picture looks pretty good, right
https://u.cubeupload.com/FinalBaton/e16IMAG0308.jpgbut you can see that faint ghosting here on pink and yellow text against black background
https://u.cubeupload.com/FinalBaton/IMAG0299.jpgand you can see it on white text too
https://u.cubeupload.com/FinalBaton/IMAG0313.jpgand here are the red diagonal lignes I mentionned earlier
http://u.cubeupload.com/FinalBaton/IMAG0302.jpgbump
anyone know if I'm looking at a recap here? or is it a problem inherent to the tubes/neckboard instead?
EDIT : oh! just found a post on Reddit where Kya(who posts here also) offers a solution. Something about retrace line... Hopefully Kya will see this and assist me

looksfrom that link that I'll need to adjust "G2" pot(screen voltage) on the flyback, I take it? Or is it the one labeled "screen" on the board at the back of the tube? Hopefully I'll have no problem finding that pot... and can this not be corrected via the R/G/B buttons for gain and bias on the front of monitor?
https://www.reddit.com/r/crtgaming/comm ... has_a_few/I've never poked inside of a crt, so I'm a bit scared

I can't find the service manual either...
I've taken the case off and took a picture(linked below). If you know in which area the pot to adjust is, let me know.
It's very grimey... I guess hitting it with compressed air is the best way to get the dust off?
Hello.
First off, service manual; While I'm not readily aware of a manual for the 1344Q specifically, I do however have one for the 1444QM, which is the "Everywhere else" version of the America specific 1344. Nearly everything in it should carry over verbatim, with the exception of some potential changes to the power supply. Pay no mind to the silly filehost :
PVM-1440QM, 1442QM, 1444QM Service ManualThe diagonal lines do appear to be retrace lines; These come from the gun not turning all the way off during the retrace of the screen as it journeys back up to the top left of the screen after drawing a field. Given that only red lines seem to be appearing, it can be assumed that only the red gun (should) need adjusted. Refer to Page 15 "3-4 White Balance" part 4 specifically, potentiometer(variable resistor) RV1705 should potentially be turned down slightly. This should (hopefully) solve the retrace line issue and possibly lessen your smearing at least for now. In regards to the "Is it G2 or Screen?" question, they two are exactly the same; G2 = Grid 2 = Screen Voltage = Screen.
Given that this monitor is 30 years old, a good portion of the capacitors in it have very likely drifted out of spec and are the actual cause of the problem. Drift could explain why what may have previously been a perfectly fine Red cathode voltage is now too much, and is extremely likely the cause of the smearing; If I had to guess on where the issue is, it'd be either drifting caps in the later portion of the red signal path leading to dirty/uneven power or even a faulty transistor responsible for the final amplification before being fed into the tube. A quick glance in the service manual shows that it's using discrete transistors for each color rather than a ganged triple amplifier on many TVs and the like, which could also be related to why you're only having issues with red and not all three at once.
Depending on how much time/labor/etc you're willing to invest, looking into having it just recapped in general would likely be the best direction to head, but the above focus would be were I'd suggest starting out to directly affect the current issues you're having.
For cleaning, a can of compressed air would be fine, but if you're dealing with an air compressor, you'd need something to deal with potential ESD build up as well as condensation.