Questions that do not deserve a thread
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Have a Kuro DC on the way and was reading about how 240p/480i may be better suited for input 1 (scart) on the OSSC. Using my crosspoint, is there any issue using different outputs depending on if I'm using it for 240p/480i or 480p? Basically it would be like this...
Input: Dreamcast>VGA2BNC>Crosspoint
Output 1: Crosspoint>BNC2SCART>OSSC Input 1 (for 240p/480i)
Output 2: Crosspoint>BNC2VGA>OSSC Input 3 (for 480p)
Also, can a VGA to BNC cable be used in both directions or does it need to be wired differently?
Input: Dreamcast>VGA2BNC>Crosspoint
Output 1: Crosspoint>BNC2SCART>OSSC Input 1 (for 240p/480i)
Output 2: Crosspoint>BNC2VGA>OSSC Input 3 (for 480p)
Also, can a VGA to BNC cable be used in both directions or does it need to be wired differently?
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
There's a few things to unpack here. First, my understanding is that all of the video modes from the Dreamcast are better suited to AV1/SCART on the OSSC, because AV1 has low-pass filtering that AV3/DE-15/VGA doesn't, and the DTV 480p setting that's needed to show the Dreamcast output at the correct aspect ratio is enabled by default on AV1 and AV2, whereas it's disabled on AV3. That said, it's not absolutely necessary to use AV1 over AV3 for the Dreamcast, and you probably won't notice a difference.RottenToTheGore wrote:Have a Kuro DC on the way and was reading about how 240p/480i may be better suited for input 1 (scart) on the OSSC. Using my crosspoint, is there any issue using different outputs depending on if I'm using it for 240p/480i or 480p? Basically it would be like this...
Input: Dreamcast>VGA2BNC>Crosspoint
Output 1: Crosspoint>BNC2SCART>OSSC Input 1 (for 240p/480i)
Output 2: Crosspoint>BNC2VGA>OSSC Input 3 (for 480p)
Secondly, or one-and-a-half...ly[?], there's really no need to split the output and route into separate inputs on the OSSC; you should just run either the VGA directly into AV3 (and configure DTV 480p for AV3), or get a VGA->SCART adapter (and a stereo RCA cable) so you can use your Kuro on AV1 without having to resell it and buy a Toro and a SCART cable instead.
Lastly, if you're using a CrossPoint, you need to keep in mind that it always outputs composite sync and separate sync signals at 5V TTL, and pretty much all consumer-grade SCART hardware requires a 0.7V 75Ohm composite sync signal; so running the sync output from the CrossPoint directly to, say, a SCART switch or AV1 on the OSSC, without attenuating the signal, can damage your SCART equipment.
VGA<->BNC cables are not directional; really it's only SCART that's directional.RottenToTheGore wrote:Also, can a VGA to BNC cable be used in both directions or does it need to be wired differently?
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Thanks for all the info! Fortunately because I'm using a crosspoint and have plenty of outputs, I'll have 3 of them going to the OSSC anyways for each input. So it's not so much as splitting it, but just choosing which input on the OSSC to send it to.nmalinoski wrote: There's a few things to unpack here. First, my understanding is that all of the video modes from the Dreamcast are better suited to AV1/SCART on the OSSC, because AV1 has low-pass filtering that AV3/DE-15/VGA doesn't, and the DTV 480p setting that's needed to show the Dreamcast output at the correct aspect ratio is enabled by default on AV1 and AV2, whereas it's disabled on AV3. That said, it's not absolutely necessary to use AV1 over AV3 for the Dreamcast, and you probably won't notice a difference.
Secondly, or one-and-a-half...ly[?], there's really no need to split the output and route into separate inputs on the OSSC; you should just run either the VGA directly into AV3 (and configure DTV 480p for AV3), or get a VGA->SCART adapter (and a stereo RCA cable) so you can use your Kuro on AV1 without having to resell it and buy a Toro and a SCART cable instead.
Lastly, if you're using a CrossPoint, you need to keep in mind that it always outputs composite sync and separate sync signals at 5V TTL, and pretty much all consumer-grade SCART hardware requires a 0.7V 75Ohm composite sync signal; so running the sync output from the CrossPoint directly to, say, a SCART switch or AV1 on the OSSC, without attenuating the signal, can damage your SCART equipment.
But if the Kuro is set to 31khz for 480p, is that something AV1 can accept? I know it takes RGBs and RGsB, but wouldn't the dreamcast be outputting something like RGBHV? I have an RXI 201 I could use to process that to RGBs if needed, I'll just have to look into how to have it incorporated into my setup.
Thanks for the warning about the TTL sync, I made sure to add the proper resistor when making my BNC>Scart cable so I'm good to go there.
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Yes, sorry, you're right; I mistakenly thought that the Kuro had the same RGBS/RGBHV output toggle that the Toro has, and it doesn't.RottenToTheGore wrote:Thanks for all the info! Fortunately because I'm using a crosspoint and have plenty of outputs, I'll have 3 of them going to the OSSC anyways for each input. So it's not so much as splitting it, but just choosing which input on the OSSC to send it to.
But if the Kuro is set to 31khz for 480p, is that something AV1 can accept? I know it takes RGBs and RGsB, but wouldn't the dreamcast be outputting something like RGBHV? I have an RXI 201 I could use to process that to RGBs if needed, I'll just have to look into how to have it incorporated into my setup.
Thanks for the warning about the TTL sync, I made sure to add the proper resistor when making my BNC>Scart cable so I'm good to go there.
AV1 can definitely accept 480p, but not RGBHV; so, no, you won't be able to run the Kuro into AV1 on the OSSC to get 480p; not without running it through a sync combiner or RGB interface, and then I would think you'd just run everything through AV1 at that point. The other things I said still stand; you'll still be able to run the Kuro into AV3, enable 480p DTV for AV3, and you probably won't be able to tell the difference between using AV3 or AV1.
While you can use the CrossPoint to split the output from the Toro to AV3 and AV1 on the OSSC, I don't think it's necessary, and I don't think you'll gain anything by doing so (and you'll have to change inputs on the OSSC regardless). If you still want use 480p content on AV3 and 480i/240p on AV1, you can use a simple 5x BNC to VGA cable to connect AV3, and you said you already have an attenuated SCART adapter to connect AV1.
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Thanks again, I figure I wouldn't notice much of a difference but I was still curious.
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andykara2003
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Does anyone know the most reliable and long lasting/well built version of the fat Japanese PS2?
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
I believe that would be the 50000 series; however, this version had some changes to earlier models, like adding an IR receiver and dropping the IEEE 1394 port. Personally, I'm happy with my 39001 and DTL-30101, although I may decide to frankenstein in the quieter fan from the 50000.andykara2003 wrote:Does anyone know the most reliable and long lasting/well built version of the fat Japanese PS2?
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
It doesn't fit very well, you have to shave the top of the fan to close the case.nmalinoski wrote:I believe that would be the 50000 series; however, this version had some changes to earlier models, like adding an IR receiver and dropping the IEEE 1394 port. Personally, I'm happy with my 39001 and DTL-30101, although I may decide to frankenstein in the quieter fan from the 50000.andykara2003 wrote:Does anyone know the most reliable and long lasting/well built version of the fat Japanese PS2?
Worthwhile mod though, so much quieter. I haven't had a chance to test it in the hotter months.
And it makes the 5000 sound like a jet engine when you put the 3000 fan in it lol.
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
While we're on the subject, can anything be done to an original/launch/phat PS3? That things REALLY does sound like a jet engine going off when the fans kick in. I barely use it (bought it used), but it always makes me think it's going to blow-up any minute from overheating or something.
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Wireless HDMI from the next room?Dochartaigh wrote:While we're on the subject, can anything be done to an original/launch/phat PS3? That things REALLY does sound like a jet engine going off when the fans kick in. I barely use it (bought it used), but it always makes me think it's going to blow-up any minute from overheating or something.
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Also on that subject,and while other consoles suffer much worse, has anyone fanmodded a Gamecube? Takes me out of the moment sometimes when playing with Gameboy Player to hear that whirl. I imagine the hardware barely needs cooling when ”only” doing GBPlayer anyway?
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Game Boy Interface can max out both the GPU and CPU depending on settings and features used. Also, a GameCube with a broken fan died at the last Summer Games Done Quick while using the Game Boy Player Start-up Disc.
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Seriously. I feel like it needs to go in a concrete bunker in case it explodes...nmalinoski wrote:Wireless HDMI from the next room?Dochartaigh wrote:While we're on the subject, can anything be done to an original/launch/phat PS3? That things REALLY does sound like a jet engine going off when the fans kick in. I barely use it (bought it used), but it always makes me think it's going to blow-up any minute from overheating or something.
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HDgaming42
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
I've been told 226 Apu and 19 blade fan can make a difference, though some report it doesn't.Dochartaigh wrote:While we're on the subject, can anything be done to an original/launch/phat PS3? That things REALLY does sound like a jet engine going off when the fans kick in. I barely use it (bought it used), but it always makes me think it's going to blow-up any minute from overheating or something.
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HDgaming42
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Anyone have an Extron DA6 RGBHV? The tech specs call out:
https://www.extron.com/product/da6rgbhv
Horizontal frequency 15 kHz to 180 kHz
Vertical frequency 15 Hz to 170 Hz
and yet feeding it 15 kHz out to a PVM-14L5 results in "no sync" and a rolling picture.
Tried the DIP switches for adjusting RGB gain and peaking, as well as for selecting AC or DC coupling. No difference in any combination.
Do I have a defective unit, or am I messing this up somehow? Opened it up--no internal jumpers. No swelling caps.
https://www.extron.com/product/da6rgbhv
Horizontal frequency 15 kHz to 180 kHz
Vertical frequency 15 Hz to 170 Hz
and yet feeding it 15 kHz out to a PVM-14L5 results in "no sync" and a rolling picture.
Tried the DIP switches for adjusting RGB gain and peaking, as well as for selecting AC or DC coupling. No difference in any combination.
Do I have a defective unit, or am I messing this up somehow? Opened it up--no internal jumpers. No swelling caps.
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Thanks - that gives me some good keywords to try to find out more about this.HDgaming42 wrote: I've been told 226 Apu and 19 blade fan can make a difference, though some report it doesn't.
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Thanks for the info. I suppose I’ll refrain from attempting any advanced fan mod anytime soon then... How about a direct swap with a newer, possibly more efficient or quiter fan though, anyone had any luck with that?Extrems wrote:Game Boy Interface can max out both the GPU and CPU depending on settings and features used. Also, a GameCube with a broken fan died at the last Summer Games Done Quick while using the Game Boy Player Start-up Disc.
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Has anyone else noticed that the Videogame Perfection site is down? I just sent BuckoA51 a PM.
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Yeah it's down for me as well.nmalinoski wrote:Has anyone else noticed that the Videogame Perfection site is down? I just sent BuckoA51 a PM.
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
He's aware and it's being addressed.Lawfer wrote:Yeah it's down for me as well.nmalinoski wrote:Has anyone else noticed that the Videogame Perfection site is down? I just sent BuckoA51 a PM.
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
https://flake.tweakblogs.net/blog/10754 ... -3-coolingDochartaigh wrote:While we're on the subject, can anything be done to an original/launch/phat PS3? That things REALLY does sound like a jet engine going off when the fans kick in. I barely use it (bought it used), but it always makes me think it's going to blow-up any minute from overheating or something.
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ChuChu Flamingo
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Could always install custom firmware and then control the fan speed manually. With Webman mod you can remotely monitor your temperature of the RSX and CPU temperature through a web interface and even control the fan speed duty cycle.
My fan speed on my fat ps3 never went past 26% (most likely due to the fact sony has a pretty conservative fan duty cycle) + I replaced the thermal paste with Arctic Silver 5 around 7 years ago. I set the fan speed at a constant 40-45% and it stays at around 49-54 celsius under full load.
One of the main reasons I installed homebrew a few months ago + free psn games. I can push start+home button to see my temperatures and even control it over the web interface. It should make it last longer but im not expecting miracles.
My fan speed on my fat ps3 never went past 26% (most likely due to the fact sony has a pretty conservative fan duty cycle) + I replaced the thermal paste with Arctic Silver 5 around 7 years ago. I set the fan speed at a constant 40-45% and it stays at around 49-54 celsius under full load.
One of the main reasons I installed homebrew a few months ago + free psn games. I can push start+home button to see my temperatures and even control it over the web interface. It should make it last longer but im not expecting miracles.
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maxtherabbit
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
just picked up a toshiba 36" consumer CRT... the reds on it have a decidedly purple hue
pure green and blue screens seem correct, but the blue phosphors on a pure red screen are being illuminated slightly
EDIT: it's not a purity problem... the reds are fine when using YPbPr input - but they are decidedly purple over composite (using a known good dreamcast with 240p test suite)
no big deal cause I don't use composite for anything, but odd nonetheless
pure green and blue screens seem correct, but the blue phosphors on a pure red screen are being illuminated slightly
EDIT: it's not a purity problem... the reds are fine when using YPbPr input - but they are decidedly purple over composite (using a known good dreamcast with 240p test suite)
no big deal cause I don't use composite for anything, but odd nonetheless
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
I was just thinking how awesome it would be if the MiSTer or any other FPGA could run cv1k core. Aren`t the SH3 Boards FPGA based and all these games running on the same code anyway, more or less? At least blitter is running on a fpga which seems to be a pain in todays emulation.
I guess theoretically this might be possible or not?!
I guess theoretically this might be possible or not?!
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
I have a PAL gamecube with RGC SCART cable out. I don't know that it matters, but I replaced the original disc drive with a XenoGC modded drive from my US NTSC gamecube. I bought a PAL game to test, but I don't get any video through my OSSC. It comes through at 50Hz on the OSSC so I assume it won't play on my US NTSC TV. However, I tried the composite adapter through my receiver and video plays fine. I guess I have 2 questions: is this normal, and how can I get PAL video through my SCART/OSSC?
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
If your OSSC has the green light and is reporting a sync signal, chances are the TV is struggling with the signal from the OSSC. What is your 480/576i processing mode? You can try passthrough, 2x and 4x to see if that makes a difference. Also many PAL Gamecube games have a 60hz mode, which will probably work. You may have to activate it blind though (if memory serves, hold B while the game starts then press left, A).
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
I need some SMD 75Ohm resistors for a Genesis 2 Scart head. I don't know too much about what I'd need though, I'm seeing things like 1/4W and 1% and such.
Can anyone point me in the right direction for what I'd need? Thanks!
Can anyone point me in the right direction for what I'd need? Thanks!
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
So old game console + OSSC + analog vga crt monitor + light gun DOES NOT work, right? Can anyone confirm and explain why?
(If specific light gun is needed, let's say Zapper.)
(If specific light gun is needed, let's say Zapper.)
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Light guns work using the timings of the electron beam in a 15khz CRT. The horizontal scan rate (15khz on a regular 480i/240p CRT) indicates how long it takes the beam to move from left to right. Your average analog VGA CRT monitor has a 31khz horizontal scan rate, meaning it draws 2 lines in the same time it takes a 15khz monitor to draw 1. Even with 100% scan lines on OSSC, it simply draws one line, then draws a blank line whereas a 15khz monitor is continually drawing lines.Galgomite wrote:So old game console + OSSC + analog vga crt monitor + light gun DOES NOT work, right? Can anyone confirm and explain why?
(If specific light gun is needed, let's say Zapper.)
The NES Zapper might be an exception though, as the way it detects hits is not as complex.
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Got a guy running Duck Hunt in 2x on the OSSC and he says it works on his PC CRT (I assume VGA) monitor...never tried it myself (yetGalgomite wrote:So old game console + OSSC + analog vga crt monitor + light gun DOES NOT work, right? Can anyone confirm and explain why?
(If specific light gun is needed, let's say Zapper.)
So I have a problem and I'm not on any Windows groups or forums to ask about...I have a TCL TV hooked up to my Windows 10 PC. I have a stereo system hooked up to the Windows PC for when I'm gaming (which outputs from the line-out 3.5mm minijack), but for regular computer stuff like watching YouTube videos I want the audio to output to the speakers on my TCL TV via HDMI. I have this setup perfectly to do just that...
BUT Windows keeps on installing (without telling/asking me) different Realtek audio drivers which are defaulting to the line-out audio jack (and do NOT have the option to output via HDMI at the same time like the original MB's drivers do). What the heck can I do to stop this driver from installing 5x+ times a day? I've already made the realtek folder read-only per this article and that didn't work:
https://appuals.com/how-to-disable-wind ... k-drivers/
The only other option that above article gives is to stop ALL automatic driver updates which means that if I plug in something as simple as a thumb drive or other device it won't recognize it and I'll have to manually install its driver every time which isn't going to work for me....any ideas? This happens multiple times a day...and it's a long process with 2x reboots to re-install my MB's Realtek audio every single time I want to watch a YouTube video with audio on my TV...