Questions that do not deserve a thread
-
ChuChu Flamingo
- Posts: 293
- Joined: Sun Feb 19, 2012 9:32 am
- Location: United States
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
One thing people need to realize is that all these old consoles that use ac adapters (and not switching power supplies like saturn/dreamcast) are unregulated transformers. That means the higher voltage you use with them the higher their output is since they are linear.
Say you have a 100V japanese AV Famicom adapter that is 10V 850 ma. On 100V you will get pretty much that. On 120V you will get around 11-12 volts from what i've seen. These extra volts will need to be dispersed as heat on your 7805 voltage regulator inside your console.
For years I used the og AV famicom 100v ac adapter on my av famicom and noticed it would get decently hot after a hour or so. After getting it RGB modded I decided to buy a proper 120V psu replacement, the one hdretrovision recommends. Not only is it much more efficient but the console can be running for hours and barely gets warm. I doubt it reduced the lifespan of the console by anything significant, but it probably put more wear and tear on the voltage regulator (which is easily replaceable)
On switching power supplies 100v-120 v it depends. Most JP/US switching psu i've seen are usually rated far and below 100-120v. Just don't plug a EU psu into US.
tl;dr just grab what hdretrovision recommended. It is super cheap anyhow. With the right adapters it is super convenient and works on a lot of consoles. A lot of these old ac adapters are going to be needing a recap in the coming years anyhow.
Say you have a 100V japanese AV Famicom adapter that is 10V 850 ma. On 100V you will get pretty much that. On 120V you will get around 11-12 volts from what i've seen. These extra volts will need to be dispersed as heat on your 7805 voltage regulator inside your console.
For years I used the og AV famicom 100v ac adapter on my av famicom and noticed it would get decently hot after a hour or so. After getting it RGB modded I decided to buy a proper 120V psu replacement, the one hdretrovision recommends. Not only is it much more efficient but the console can be running for hours and barely gets warm. I doubt it reduced the lifespan of the console by anything significant, but it probably put more wear and tear on the voltage regulator (which is easily replaceable)
On switching power supplies 100v-120 v it depends. Most JP/US switching psu i've seen are usually rated far and below 100-120v. Just don't plug a EU psu into US.
tl;dr just grab what hdretrovision recommended. It is super cheap anyhow. With the right adapters it is super convenient and works on a lot of consoles. A lot of these old ac adapters are going to be needing a recap in the coming years anyhow.
-
maxtherabbit
- Posts: 1763
- Joined: Mon Mar 05, 2018 4:03 pm
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
AgreedChuChu Flamingo wrote:One thing people need to realize is that all these old consoles that use ac adapters (and not switching power supplies like saturn/dreamcast) are unregulated transformers. That means the higher voltage you use with them the higher their output is since they are linear.
Say you have a 100V japanese AV Famicom adapter that is 10V 850 ma. On 100V you will get pretty much that. On 120V you will get around 11-12 volts from what i've seen. These extra volts will need to be dispersed as heat on your 7805 voltage regulator inside your console.
For years I used the og AV famicom 100v ac adapter on my av famicom and noticed it would get decently hot after a hour or so. After getting it RGB modded I decided to buy a proper 120V psu replacement, the one hdretrovision recommends. Not only is it much more efficient but the console can be running for hours and barely gets warm. I doubt it reduced the lifespan of the console by anything significant, but it probably put more wear and tear on the voltage regulator (which is easily replaceable)
On switching power supplies 100v-120 v it depends. Most JP/US switching psu i've seen are usually rated far and below 100-120v. Just don't plug a EU psu into US.
tl;dr just grab what hdretrovision recommended. It is super cheap anyhow. With the right adapters it is super convenient and works on a lot of consoles. A lot of these old ac adapters are going to be needing a recap in the coming years anyhow.
-
- Posts: 1536
- Joined: Thu Mar 02, 2017 6:53 pm
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Thanks, have to figure out how to order from Godlyke (minimum order is $10 and the reverse polarity I need for PCE is only like $6 shipped), but I'll get it sorted out (or just switch the + and - from the power supply myself).copy wrote: I think it is bad in the long run to use 100V equipment on 120V power. Even if it seems to work fine, it could cause premature wear and tear eventually.
For a new power supply, I have found HD Retrovision's recommended PWR+ model to work perfectly. According to their table, you will just need to add a reverse polarity adapter to use it with the PC Engine.
So if the input and output have to be really close, then there's not much use in using the Corio2 framelock feature for what we normally use it for then, right? (i.e. 480p to 240p downscaling)orange808 wrote:I'm uncertain if you're trying to find a frame lock feature, but I'll throw this out for people that want to know:
For clarity, the Corio2 "lock" is like a passthrough. The output resolution and frame rate will be identical to the input. No scaling. "Lock" is not a proper frame lock for scaled output.
Out of curiosity, you have any idea what else I can use my C2-6104A for? I bought it because the seller took my super low "best offer" price, and honestly just got it as a toy to display 4x consoles on a single flatscreen....but it can't even take a 480p signal along with a 240p unless I re-program is so a little bit useless. I guess I could use it as a switcher to take 4 inputs then choose which goes to it's single output...but with it hooked up to my Crosspoint I can do that super easy through the 2x single Corio2's I already have in my rack.
I do want to mess around with the source-to-different-source transitions and PIP type stuff I think it has - just REALLY hard to find any meaningful info on these online besides the manual (which I find the TVOne manuals to not make much sense to me...).
-
ChuChu Flamingo
- Posts: 293
- Joined: Sun Feb 19, 2012 9:32 am
- Location: United States
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
I would just order the reverse polarity from here
https://reverb.com/item/24755-power-all ... ity-jumper
they gave it to me after I emailed them asking why I couldn't order something that was $10. It turns out you it needs to be $10 of items, not including shipping.
Also does anyone have any good recommendations for a hdmi splitter/switch?.
Something that has no lag, works with ossc, has like 4 inputs, and 2 outputs. From what I see it can be a toss up on what one you buy. Or would it be better to get a standalone hdmi switch and splitter?
https://reverb.com/item/24755-power-all ... ity-jumper
they gave it to me after I emailed them asking why I couldn't order something that was $10. It turns out you it needs to be $10 of items, not including shipping.
Also does anyone have any good recommendations for a hdmi splitter/switch?.
Something that has no lag, works with ossc, has like 4 inputs, and 2 outputs. From what I see it can be a toss up on what one you buy. Or would it be better to get a standalone hdmi switch and splitter?
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
To me it currently looks like it doesn't like 240p very much, when I input such a signal it only updates parts of its internal frame buffer and shows junk or an old image in the remainder of the window. Setting the aspect ratio of that source to "Full" seems to zoom the image to the full window size though, without any unused pixelated junk next to it.Dochartaigh wrote:(which if you know how to make that more flexible, so I can input a 240p or 480p signal and not have to re-program it, PLEASE let me know!).
Meh, the manual section seemed to imply something more flexible, but I guess it's a copy-and-paste job from a master C2 documentation.For the "lock" you mention, a quick view of the manual talks about "lock source" which only uses DVI-U #5 (which is the exact one your mentioned), and this is ONLY for the background image.
You could simulate 4-player splitscreen gaming from a single-player source ;) Or create a kaleidoscopic effect by using the four quadrant split with a single source and setting the mirroring in the four windows to none, H, V and H+V.kinda been trying to figure out what the heck I even need this thing for.
Meh. The manual seemd to imply that there is a mode that just locks the frame rate to the input but not the resolution, similar to many better-known scalers.orange808 wrote:For clarity, the Corio2 "lock" is like a passthrough. The output resolution and frame rate will be identical to the input. No scaling. "Lock" is not a proper frame lock for scaled output.
That will always drift out of lock over a sufficiently long time scale though.A few units have a limited frame lock feature, but it's imperfect and you can match (or exceed) the performance of the frame lock feature (by manually adjusting timings in the menu) on *any* Corio2.
GCVideo releases: https://github.com/ikorb/gcvideo/releases
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
The Picture in Picture feature could potentially be quite handy for learning strategies from superplay/demonstration videos. Having the target patterns directly beside your gaming window on the same screen would be a better solution than, say, a tablet on your lap.
The problem is that in order to have two windows of a reasonable size, you'd have to play on a large TV, which would add at least another frame of latency on top of the two frames added by the Corio2. And 3 frames of lag (at best) tend to be perceptible on skill-based games - or even deal-breaking if you already accumulated hundreds of hours of gameplay on a no-lag setup.
The problem is that in order to have two windows of a reasonable size, you'd have to play on a large TV, which would add at least another frame of latency on top of the two frames added by the Corio2. And 3 frames of lag (at best) tend to be perceptible on skill-based games - or even deal-breaking if you already accumulated hundreds of hours of gameplay on a no-lag setup.
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
That's a possibility, but it hasn't been a big issue.Unseen wrote: That will always drift out of lock over a sufficiently long time scale though.
-----
But, while we're busy knocking down 240p downscaling options, let's examine the imperfect landscape:
Super Emotia.
Expensive. I've never owned one, but: It is designed to be a scan converter and it should always perform frame rate conversion (due to the fact that it was designed to output NTSC/PAL/SECAM standard video). Outputs 240p that standard consumer televisions can display. It averages the scanlines, so it's not as clear as the Genius II. 4:2:2 chroma? One frame of lag (worst case).
Genius II.
Expensive. I've never owned one. Drops scanlines without averaging and produces nice still images, but frame rate conversion is always performed to 60Hz. Outputs 240p that standard consumer televisions can display. I assume it's 4:4:4? One frame of lag (worst case).
iScan HD.
Frame locked and low lag. 4:2:2 sampling guarantees that detail is lost. 480p doesn't have much color resolution and we never planned on throwing away half of the chroma samples on each scanline. Averages the scanlines when downscaling. Works nice on a monitor, but doesn't output 240p that my consumer televisions can display. Reasonably priced if you can find a working unit.
Corio2.
Difficult to program and use. No frame lock and requires manual setup. In many cases, the output frame rates are adjustable to the thousandth (XX.XXXHz), but it's a bloody nightmare to adjust. 4:4:4 sampling doesn't sacrifice color resolution. Averages the scanlines when downscaling. Fully programmable output signal can drive almost any display. Slower than other machines with a frame and a half of lag (worst case). Reasonably priced brand new units can be found.
Kramer scalers? The older machines that output low resolutions can't do less than 241 active lines. Just one line too many! Unfortunately, the scaling engine can't compensate. It cannot be fixed. So close... but it doesn't work.
Other stuff? All I know is...
Extron machines rarely have custom programmable output timings and I've never seen or heard of one that allows users to create a custom 240p output.
Barco ImagePro (one and two) machines might do it. Video professionals love those machines and nobody wants to sell them at reasonable prices in good condition. So, I don't know.
Lumagen Vison? Maybe. I don't own one. I hear it does 240p. It averages the scanlines. There's no frame lock. The frame rate is programmable, but I don't believe you can adjust it beyond tenths of 1Hz (X.XHz). 4:4:4 sampling. Probably a frame of lag. I don't know if it can produce a 240p signal that consumer CRT's will accept.
Realta chip? Its programmable, but it doesn't do low resolutions. No other Silicon Optix is programmable.
Bottom line: There's no perfect options.
Edit: I forgot about the Ultracade UVC. Sold mine ages ago on the forum. It does frame rate conversion to 60Hz. Very rare. Inconvenient bare PCB board design. You need some resistors to drive a consumer CRT.
Last edited by orange808 on Thu Sep 06, 2018 3:06 pm, edited 1 time in total.
We apologise for the inconvenience
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
The Bodnar lag tester picks up between 26 and 34ms on my Corio2 machine (top bar). And I'm not sure how you came up with those numbers on the other machines.. why would one frame be the worst case scenario?
I don't care much for full chroma, but still I'd be totally up for an Open Source Down Converter..
I don't care much for full chroma, but still I'd be totally up for an Open Source Down Converter..
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Xer Xian wrote:The Bodnar lag tester picks up between 26 and 34ms on my Corio2 machine. And I'm not sure how you came up with those numbers on the other machines.. why would one frame be the worst case scenario?
I don't care much for full chroma, but still I'd be totally up for an Open Source Down Converter..
It's asyncronous. The latency varies because the degree of sync (between the input and output timings) drifts about. Therefore, the worst case scenario depends on the frame rate conversion algorithm.
I would love an Open Source Downconverter. The great news is that it would probably sample without compression, so we wouldn't have to worry about it.
We apologise for the inconvenience
-
- Posts: 1974
- Joined: Wed Jul 19, 2017 1:52 pm
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
If we're talking theoretical OSSC-like AV devices, I'd also appreciate an Open Source Transcoder as well; something that can take and convert between any of RGBHV, RGBS, RGsB, or YPbPr and would be a bit more available than a functional Kramer FC-4040. Bonus if it can also decode S-Video, composite, and RF.orange808 wrote:I would love an Open Source Downconverter. The great news is that it would probably sample without compression, so we wouldn't have to worry about it.
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
@orange808: nice overview!
Never thought about trying a Lumagen. The oldest one I have is the HDQ - maybe worth a try.
Even if it does internal 4:2:2 processing (which I don't think it does), I don't think it would matter. After all you're also reducing your output resolution and as long as the resulting resolution isn't internally sampled at 4:2:2, you wouldn't notice. The one thing clearly speaking for the Emotia is how easy is it to setup and to use. One more disadvantage is the color depth of the internal processing. On non-retro graphics you clearly end up with color banding. And of course the fact that the line averaging starts with lines 2 and 3, which gives you some blury results if you can't shift your source up or down a line.Super Emotia.
basically performs identical to the Emotia. Big advantage is it's 384p output for cab users.Ultracade UVC
Never thought about trying a Lumagen. The oldest one I have is the HDQ - maybe worth a try.
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
On the OSTransCoder - not a very high priority for me, but would still be nice to have. And while we're at it, let's add an OSPictureScaler with full frame buffer to the list There seems to be potential for a whole product line of OSXX machines
I remember someone reported the HDQ as being able to downscale to 240p. And it's 4:4:4 too, isn't it? Best Lumagen by a large margin for gaming, apparently.Fudoh wrote:Never thought about trying a Lumagen. The oldest one I have is the HDQ - maybe worth a try.
-
ChuChu Flamingo
- Posts: 293
- Joined: Sun Feb 19, 2012 9:32 am
- Location: United States
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
So there isn't a way to get 480p/480i to 240p lagless?
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Nope. No known solution for that.ChuChu Flamingo wrote:So there isn't a way to get 480p/480i to 240p lagless?
We apologise for the inconvenience
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
I believe certain hardware like Extron scalers can do it laglessly.ChuChu Flamingo wrote:So there isn't a way to get 480p/480i to 240p lagless?
There are also some HomeBrew programs like Swiss (GameCube) which can force a game to run at 240p, 480i or 480p in 4:3 or 16:9. 100% lag-free
-
- Posts: 1974
- Joined: Wed Jul 19, 2017 1:52 pm
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
I'm not aware of any Extron hardware that's 240p compatible. Which models have you seen do 240p?GeneraLight wrote:I believe certain hardware like Extron scalers can do it laglessly.ChuChu Flamingo wrote:So there isn't a way to get 480p/480i to 240p lagless?
-
Einzelherz
- Posts: 1279
- Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2014 2:09 am
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
If there's scaling, there's likely time involved.ChuChu Flamingo wrote:So there isn't a way to get 480p/480i to 240p lagless?
-
- Posts: 1974
- Joined: Wed Jul 19, 2017 1:52 pm
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
It's not as simple as simply discarding every other line?Einzelherz wrote:If there's scaling, there's likely time involved.ChuChu Flamingo wrote:So there isn't a way to get 480p/480i to 240p lagless?
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
it's pretty simple, but you need to buffer a line in order to output it at (roughly) half speed.It's not as simple as simply discarding every other line?
I'm pretty sure I asked marqs about this functionality on the OSSC way back and I get that there's no room to accomplish this with the current limitations, but I'm still wondering if it wasn't possible to simply reprogram the OSSC to just act as a down converter instead. DVI/HDMI only output still is an issue, but it would be a first step.
-
- Posts: 1974
- Joined: Wed Jul 19, 2017 1:52 pm
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
My understanding was that the current iterations of the OSSC do have a line buffer. I'm no marqs, but, it sounds like it would be fairly straightforward to selectively buffer enough pixels from a given line to bring down the horizontal resolution (Or perhaps just output every Nth pixel, which should slow down the output), then ignore N lines to bring down the vertical resolution. Or maybe none of that will work.Fudoh wrote:it's pretty simple, but you need to buffer a line in order to output it at (roughly) half speed.It's not as simple as simply discarding every other line?
I'm pretty sure I asked marqs about this functionality on the OSSC way back and I get that there's no room to accomplish this with the current limitations, but I'm still wondering if it wasn't possible to simply reprogram the OSSC to just act as a down converter instead. DVI/HDMI only output still is an issue, but it would be a first step.
-
- Posts: 112
- Joined: Sat Jul 10, 2010 6:07 pm
- Location: Maryland
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Anyone know where I could get various 90 degree angled connectors? Pet peeve of mine when systems have video and/or power plugs on the side.
-
- Posts: 1974
- Joined: Wed Jul 19, 2017 1:52 pm
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
eBay and Amazon, probably. What kind of connectors are you looking for? HDMI? Power?RottenToTheGore wrote:Anyone know where I could get various 90 degree angled connectors? Pet peeve of mine when systems have video and/or power plugs on the side.
-
- Posts: 112
- Joined: Sat Jul 10, 2010 6:07 pm
- Location: Maryland
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
9 Pin DIN for a turbo duo (RGB Mod), 8 pin mini DIN for a CDX and a power plug for PC engine ( 5.5mm x 2.1mm)nmalinoski wrote:eBay and Amazon, probably. What kind of connectors are you looking for? HDMI? Power?RottenToTheGore wrote:Anyone know where I could get various 90 degree angled connectors? Pet peeve of mine when systems have video and/or power plugs on the side.
-
- Posts: 1536
- Joined: Thu Mar 02, 2017 6:53 pm
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Following this link the guys posted a page back: recommended PWR+ modelRottenToTheGore wrote:9 Pin DIN for a turbo duo (RGB Mod), 8 pin mini DIN for a CDX and a power plug for PC engine ( 5.5mm x 2.1mm)
And they have a 90º one for my white PC Engine I'm going to pickup. (it's the negative polarity dongle to be used with their recommended power supply)
-
HDgaming42
- Posts: 331
- Joined: Wed Jul 15, 2009 3:16 am
- Location: Canada
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Got a new PVM-14L5 and was eager to put it through its paces. My consoles go RGB SCART through a GSCART switch. I wanted to use my Extron rxi 203 to realign the screen as the gscart switch pushes everything to the left.
But the 203 simply lists "no input". Outputting to the PVM shows "no sync" but clearly passes picture, but it is green and scrolls. (I'm using the gscart to create clean sync)
I've wired the gscart directly to the monitor and it works no problem. Using the same cable chain into the extron results in "no input".
Anyone seen this before? Am I overlooking something?
I've tried both an X'eye and SNES through the gscart to extron. I've tried the X'eye direct to extron. The last time I used the 203 it was working, but that was with RGBHV. This is the first time I've tried sending it RGBS 15khz.
Help?
But the 203 simply lists "no input". Outputting to the PVM shows "no sync" but clearly passes picture, but it is green and scrolls. (I'm using the gscart to create clean sync)
I've wired the gscart directly to the monitor and it works no problem. Using the same cable chain into the extron results in "no input".
Anyone seen this before? Am I overlooking something?
I've tried both an X'eye and SNES through the gscart to extron. I've tried the X'eye direct to extron. The last time I used the 203 it was working, but that was with RGBHV. This is the first time I've tried sending it RGBS 15khz.
Help?
-
HDgaming42
- Posts: 331
- Joined: Wed Jul 15, 2009 3:16 am
- Location: Canada
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
OK, so I've run an original playstation, a JVC X'eye, and a SNES direct into the 203 and most of them show "no input", while others (PSX) will show a rolling green screen that after a few seconds forces the monitor to change resolution and then it emits a high pitched whine. I then change inputs to spare it the torture.HDgaming42 wrote:Got a new PVM-14L5...
Running those consoles through the GSCARTSW gives different results on the output. The DSUB shows the same rolling green screen both with and without the sync stripper engaged, while the SCART out shows "no input".
A dreamcast running 31KHz into the 203 shows a rock solid image while hooked up to both an LCD and PVM. With DDSP enabled it looks good, but with it disabled the picture is...off. Playing with the "level" and "peak" settings can't get me to how the picture looks with DDSP enabled. And yet when I then loop the 203 through an extron emotia I can disable DDSP and the picture looks correct.
tl;dr
my extron 203 doesn't seem to like any 15KHz signals I send it and I can't for the life of me figure out why...
-
arithmaldor
- Posts: 124
- Joined: Wed Jun 07, 2017 8:39 pm
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
It's not the 15khz, it's the fact that the sync is not TTL. These units only accept TTL level sync (>2Vpp according to the manual). You can get this either by using a sync stripper that doesn't attenuate the output or by using something that boosts the sync. The only thing I've used with success is an Extron crosspoint.HDgaming42 wrote:OK, so I've run an original playstation, a JVC X'eye, and a SNES direct into the 203 and most of them show "no input", while others (PSX) will show a rolling green screen that after a few seconds forces the monitor to change resolution and then it emits a high pitched whine. I then change inputs to spare it the torture.HDgaming42 wrote:Got a new PVM-14L5...
Running those consoles through the GSCARTSW gives different results on the output. The DSUB shows the same rolling green screen both with and without the sync stripper engaged, while the SCART out shows "no input".
A dreamcast running 31KHz into the 203 shows a rock solid image while hooked up to both an LCD and PVM. With DDSP enabled it looks good, but with it disabled the picture is...off. Playing with the "level" and "peak" settings can't get me to how the picture looks with DDSP enabled. And yet when I then loop the 203 through an extron emotia I can disable DDSP and the picture looks correct.
tl;dr
my extron 203 doesn't seem to like any 15KHz signals I send it and I can't for the life of me figure out why...
-
HDgaming42
- Posts: 331
- Joined: Wed Jul 15, 2009 3:16 am
- Location: Canada
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Ahh, OK--thanks!. I've recabled and the 203 locks up on 15KHz input once fed *extron* TTL. The DSUB output of the GSCARTSW is said to output TTL, but the two behaviours are different:arithmaldor wrote:It's not the 15khz, it's the fact that the sync is not TTL. These units only accept TTL level sync (>2Vpp according to the manual). You can get this either by using a sync stripper that doesn't attenuate the output or by using something that boosts the sync. The only thing I've used with success is an Extron crosspoint.HDgaming42 wrote:OK, so I've run an original playstation, a JVC X'eye, and a SNES direct into the 203 and most of them show "no input", while others (PSX) will show a rolling green screen that after a few seconds forces the monitor to change resolution and then it emits a high pitched whine. I then change inputs to spare it the torture.HDgaming42 wrote:Got a new PVM-14L5...
Running those consoles through the GSCARTSW gives different results on the output. The DSUB shows the same rolling green screen both with and without the sync stripper engaged, while the SCART out shows "no input".
A dreamcast running 31KHz into the 203 shows a rock solid image while hooked up to both an LCD and PVM. With DDSP enabled it looks good, but with it disabled the picture is...off. Playing with the "level" and "peak" settings can't get me to how the picture looks with DDSP enabled. And yet when I then loop the 203 through an extron emotia I can disable DDSP and the picture looks correct.
tl;dr
my extron 203 doesn't seem to like any 15KHz signals I send it and I can't for the life of me figure out why...
a) the PVM displays "480i" but a black screen if I run console-->GSCARTSW DSUB-->extron crosspoint-->extron 203-->PVM
b) the PVM displays scrambled columns of blocks of colour if I run console-->GSCARTSW DSUB-->extron 203-->PVM
Any ideas?
-
maxtherabbit
- Posts: 1763
- Joined: Mon Mar 05, 2018 4:03 pm
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
idk anything about the g-switches, but the first thing I'd do would be to measure the voltage output on the sync pin of the HD-15 output of the switch to see if it really is TTLHDgaming42 wrote:
Ahh, OK--thanks!. I've recabled and the 203 locks up on 15KHz input once fed *extron* TTL. The DSUB output of the GSCARTSW is said to output TTL, but the two behaviours are different:
a) the PVM displays "480i" but a black screen if I run console-->GSCARTSW DSUB-->extron crosspoint-->extron 203-->PVM
b) the PVM displays scrambled columns of blocks of colour if I run console-->GSCARTSW DSUB-->extron 203-->PVM
Any ideas?
-
HDgaming42
- Posts: 331
- Joined: Wed Jul 15, 2009 3:16 am
- Location: Canada
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Not a bad idea.maxtherabbit wrote:idk anything about the g-switches, but the first thing I'd do would be to measure the voltage output on the sync pin of the HD-15 output of the switch to see if it really is TTLHDgaming42 wrote:
Ahh, OK--thanks!. I've recabled and the 203 locks up on 15KHz input once fed *extron* TTL. The DSUB output of the GSCARTSW is said to output TTL, but the two behaviours are different:
a) the PVM displays "480i" but a black screen if I run console-->GSCARTSW DSUB-->extron crosspoint-->extron 203-->PVM
b) the PVM displays scrambled columns of blocks of colour if I run console-->GSCARTSW DSUB-->extron 203-->PVM
Any ideas?
I'd previously added an extron emotia to the chain when testing the dreamcast. Still had that in the chain--that was the "black" screen I was getting.
Removing it resulted in the garbled columns of colour.
I actually resolved it by feeding the 203 back into the crosspoint and then to the PVMs. Things look fine now!
WORKS:
15KHz console-->GSCARTSW DSUB-->extron crosspoint-->extron 203-->extron crosspoint AGAIN-->PVM