shmups.system11.org

I wonder what super game boy would look like on that thing.

Was the pin-out for the BKM-11r mini-din 8 cable ever documented? Can anybody confirm whether this cable will work?

Not sure about that cable, but the pin outs are documented in the BVM service manuals.

Hi Daniel

Why do you want a widescreen model?

Did you guys know that some chinese company is still manufacturing plasma displays to this day? Model AKTV503 by Akai is a 720p 50" plasma you can buy today for around €250 (in Italy). Apparently it sells well! I thought plasma was a dead tech

Edit: looking at the box of this thing now, I'm scratching my head at that declared 16.7ms response time.. a plasma display that's so slow? Maybe they are sourcing the display from somewhere else and are throwing out some random numbers

"Some Chinese Company". Akai is a pretty well known Japanese brand. It also says this pretty clearly on that giant box.

Yeah but Akai is not manufacturing the panel themselves (almost none of the big Japanese brands do it these days, and Akai is definitely not a big one), they are likely sourcing it from the Chinese panel manufacturer that Xer Xian is referring to.

Ah yes that is true. Nowadays the Akai name is just used to rebrand products purely for brand recognition.

I'm about to retire my VERY trusty Zektor HDS4.1 component (and digital audio) switcher. It's a high quality switch that uses relays for everything.

Is there any market for this thing, or would I be dumb to sell it? It's remote controlled and responds well to my Logitech remotes and such.

https://www.digitalconnection.com/produ ... /hds41.asp

https://www.manualslib.com/products/Zek ... 17088.html

Does anyone know what the difference is between the JVC BM-H2000PN and the JVC BM-H2000PN-K, not sure what the 'K' signifies??

When you find an advert of a few 20M4E's and TM-H1750's for sale at a decent price about 320km-200 miles away, in the middle of nowhere, with scant evidence of their conditions and a generic claim from the owner that they work just fine.. and you already have a couple nice CRT's.. just what do you do? The right thing - don't bother, or the stupid thing - let the CRT craving get the better of you, drive all day, and become a full-fledged CRT's hoarder?

I did the stupid thing

Good job - that's how it's done! Love my M4's.

@Xer Xian - like a boss

@brentsg I've sent you a PM

I know exactly how You feel Friday pickups:



The stack on the left is mine, and rest belong to my friend We bought them from a TV studio for a realy decent price

Man, that's a huge haul nice score on the three DT-V's! It's probably the only multisync monitor which you have a decent chance to find in Europe (BVM's seem to be so rare here). I got mine from ebay and it cost me as much as three monitors from my recent pickups..

Yeah, three DT-V1710CG's is a realy great find Unfortunately they don't have the RGB cards, but I have one in my other DT-V that I bought a year ago

In the small case on the bottom right, there is a PVM-14L5, and the studio we bought the monitors from even had some BVM-A20F1M and D14H5E, but would not sell them because they are still using them!

Bit off topic, but what are the best camera settings for taking good pictures of the screen?

Uh, there's no allround setting you can use and I have no idea what kind of camera you've got. I'm using a Nikon D3200 with a 40mm/2.8 Nikkor Macro lens. For 240p I use a shutter speed of 1sec/60 and usually have f/4.5 or so. I prefer to have 800ISO. I only shoot RAW (.nef) and do everything post in Lightroom. I recently did a video with this specific setup, though it was shot in H.264 (.mov) with a white point at 6500° Kelvin and graded using DaVinci Resolve. You can check it out if you're interested.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jjvbGSu5Ga4

Picked up two CRTs last friday - Ikegami TM20-30R and a Sony BVM-20F1E.



I've used several 20F1*s before (including a 20F1J which've been in my possession for a little over three years) and know they're extremely accurate, but was very surprised by the Ikegami despite my specific monitor having a reddish tint in blacks. It couldn't be compensated with the controls in the control panel and caused some shifting in the shadow details but otherwise I could get most of the greyscale and white balance right with the help of CalMAN Video Pro (I'm using a C6 HDR1300 for measurements). D65 becomes a bit of a compromise but overall I'd say it's certainly good enough for consumer usage. It maps to the Rec.709 and PAL gamuts very well (they're nearly identical) and provides very good color accuracy. Convergence, geometry and uniformity was also great. It's EOTF is also fantastic, as it follows Power Lag 2.4 extremely well. It's really suited for a dark enviroment.



Overall I was very impressed by this CRT. Certainly better than any PVM I've ever used, including my PVM-20L4 (which has problematic white balance, washed out EOTF and tricky color reproduction). For retro games I'd certainly recommend this monitor. Here are the CalMAN graphs if anyone is interested.

You need to set the shutter speed to 1/60sec. That's KEY.

After that you set exposure and shutter to minimize bloom and get the brightness you want.

The thread is 6 years old and stated ~250$ for a v402, what would be a resonable price today?

probably anything between $50 and $500. It's really about finding one. You won't have different sellers to choose from.

I see.
There are currently some on ebay-kleinanzeigen, 450€.
You gotta shell out quite some money on them it seems, don't know if it'll be worth it, already have a small crt here that I'm happy with but a bigger screen would be nice

The question is what you expect from it. It's a curiosity and has its advantages (like being 4:3 and 480p native and using a plasma panel), which gives it a very destinctive look, but except for the motion clarity it has very little going for it. Any gaming experience on an OSSC/OLED combo is far superior.

Ok guys i need your HELP!!

I have a JVC BM H2000PN-K Broadcast monitor and up until last week was working just fine. Have turned it on today and have no picture at all not even the menu OSD shows up, if i press the overscan button i would usually get red, blue and green lines running across the top of the screen now all i get a thick white line (could be 4 white lines together). I have removed the case and the light emanating from the necktube is extremely dim which is supposed to be fair bright correct?

Here's a video showing the issue....

https://youtu.be/sh3F59znx8k

Can anyone please tell me if I will have any trouble using a cable with a sync stripper built in on a BVM D24? Specifically a RGB Euro SCART to 4 BNC with a LM1881N.

I ask because I want to run a test on one and all my cables are made with sync stippers on them. I remember Phonedork mentioning in one one of his videos that his D24 had problems with a sync stripper.

I run sync strippers on my PS1 and PS2. They're ran through an Extron Crosspoint switcher, but no problem running them to a D9, D14, or D20.

Great! Thank you. It would have been embarrassing to show up to test the thing after a long drive and have a cable problem.

https://youtu.be/ffiR4E1id-8?t=4m27s

That one line had me a bit concerned.

Need some help with trouble shooting some issues with my D24. First is some sort of vertical waviness interference when using the sega saturn via rgb, it changes depending on the screen, happens with both my model 1 and 2 saturns and have tried various scarts for it, but the problem persists. Second is that the raster lines have a sort of larger swell on the left side every time the raster changes,, hard to explain i have posted some pics to show what i meant. pretty much a small white line with be uneven at the left side where it starts. it seems present even on the menue text aswell

Interference


uneven raster

The 'uneven raster' thing is not an issue. CRT's don't have discrete pixels and nothing ensures that the video signal/beam will neatly match with the individual phosphors' stripes or dots. See here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dX649ln ... e&t=10m53s