Help needed - SNES Ascii pad behaves very strangely

[ChurchOfSolipsism]

Mate of mine gave me an old Ascii-pad he found in a thrift shop. First I thought it was completely broken, but it turns out that out of all buttons, one (the B-button) still works: if you press it, the pad behaves as if all buttons are pressed. (used Windows 7 and a cheap SNES/ USB-converter to pinpoint the problem, but as far as I could see, when I plugged it into my SNES the problem was the same).

Took a look inside, and apart from lots of dirt everything (switches, contacts etc.) it looks ok. Anybody got any idea what might be wrong?

[ASDR]

Recently got one as well and cleaned it up, so I remember how it looks inside. Doesn't look like that much could break. Did you clean it thoroughly? Maybe some contacts etc. are bridged. Maybe leave it disassembled and test it that way.

[ChurchOfSolipsism]

Cheers for the tips, will try them.

[ASDR]

Hope you get it working, it's nice controller! The turbo/slowmo features are neat and I like how the shoulder buttons are less mushy than on my SFC controller. I payed 6.50EUR for mine in good condition, so you could probably get another one without breaking the bank if this one isn't salvageable

[ChurchOfSolipsism]

Damn. I cleaned the shit out of the sucker, sanded the contacts etc. but to no avail, it behaves exactly like it did before I tried fixing it. Oh well, you can't win 'em all...

[Einzelherz]

Is the cord damaged at all? Are there any burnt super e joints? Unseat and reseat the cake e connector inside?

[RaphM]

Are you maybe using an NTSC Ascii pad with a PAL console?

Your problems sound smiliar to the ones described here: https://forums.nesdev.com/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=12413
For PAL consoles, the controllers need to have pull-up resistors on the clock and latch lines. (A controller modified that way will work for PAL and NTSC afaik)

[ChurchOfSolipsism]

Is the cord damaged at all? Are there any burnt super e joints? Unseat and reseat the cake e connector inside?

No damages on the cord, as far as I can see. I'm afraid you'll have to explain to me what "super e joints" and "cake e connectors" are - thanks.

Are you maybe using an NTSC Ascii pad with a PAL console?

Your problems sound smiliar to the ones described here: https://forums.nesdev.com/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=12413
For PAL consoles, the controllers need to have pull-up resistors on the clock and latch lines. (A controller modified that way will work for PAL and NTSC afaik)

That's what I initially thought as well, but there are two problems with that hypothesis: one, I live in Germany and I don't see how an NTSC pad might have gotten here and two, and far more convincingly, I checked via a USB-converter/ windows and the result is the same as when I use the pad with my (PAL) console.

Also, the person in that thread reports that when he keeps pressing the B button, every other button suddenly works. With my pad, nothing but the B button works and it doesn't make any difference for the other buttons whether I'm keeping the B button pressed or not.

Anyway, thanks for taking the time to try to help me, mates!

[ASDR]

I got mine from German eBay and it at least says 'Made in Japan' Didn't care about the PAL vs NTSC pad issue myself as I use an SFC and both pads would work, but I always assumed those ASCII pads were Japanese.

[Thomas83lin]

@op your problem sounds like a bad IC chip, I've had afew nes controllers do the same thing. Replacing the IC fixed them.

[Einzelherz]

Is the cord damaged at all? Are there any burnt super e joints? Unseat and reseat the cake e connector inside?

No damages on the cord, as far as I can see. I'm afraid you'll have to explain to me what "super e joints" and "cake e connectors" are - thanks.

Oops those are some bad typos. Solder joints and cable connector.

[ChurchOfSolipsism]

@op your problem sounds like a bad IC chip, I've had afew nes controllers do the same thing. Replacing the IC fixed them.

Huh. Where did you get a replacement IC chip from then? Also, how difficult is it to replace an IC chip? I'm ok at soldering, but no pro.. thanks for the help, man!

Is the cord damaged at all? Are there any burnt super e joints? Unseat and reseat the cake e connector inside?

No damages on the cord, as far as I can see. I'm afraid you'll have to explain to me what "super e joints" and "cake e connectors" are - thanks.

Oops those are some bad typos. Solder joints and cable connector.

guess that makes more sense...

[Thomas83lin]

Huh. Where did you get a replacement IC chip from then? Also, how difficult is it to replace an IC chip? I'm ok at soldering, but no pro.. thanks for the help, man!

The org nes controller is easy to find replacement IC's for, but honestly I can't seem to find one for the snes's controller? That's even assuming the asciipad and standard controller share the same IC. I'm assuming they do but I'm not sure. Sorry about that

[ChurchOfSolipsism]

No problem, man. It was a long shot anyway.

[lincruste]

Sorry for necroposting, but I had the same issue, it comes from a design flaw of the ASCII pad. Every time you slide one of those turbo switches, they wear down and break the traces of the PCB underneath.
Check for continuity, bridge the cut traces and your controller will work again. Avoid thick strap wires because it would prevent the switches from sliding, a simple tin bridge is better for very short cuts, if possible.

[ChurchOfSolipsism]

Sorry for necroposting, but I had the same issue, it comes from a design flaw of the ASCII pad. Every time you slide one of those turbo switches, they wear down and break the traces of the PCB underneath.
Check for continuity, bridge the cut traces and your controller will work again. Avoid thick strap wires because it would prevent the switches from sliding, a simple tin bridge is better for very short cuts, if possible.

I've never understood how somebody might have a problem with necroposting, after all it often means that problems can be resolved even years later. In this particular case though I am sorry to say I threw the pad in the bin! Damn...