The Supergun discussion and Q&A thread.

iguanastorm7 · Joined: 17 Apr 2014 Posts: 1

I'm looking for a super gun with component. Will a jrok work with this? https://m.ebay.com/itm/Supergun-ProGame ... SwOyJX6pvu

crocky · Joined: 10 Feb 2018 Posts: 8

iguanastorm7 wrote:

I'm looking for a super gun with component. Will a jrok work with this? https://m.ebay.com/itm/Supergun-ProGame ... SwOyJX6pvu

Any jamma board will work with that. However that device does not have component. SCART and RGB only.

braves01 · Joined: 21 Jan 2018 Posts: 5

Question answered.

GGA_HAN · Joined: 27 Dec 2012 Posts: 172 Location: Chicagoland, IL

Can anyone please recommend a good external power supply to use with either HAS v3.1 or the deluxe retroelectronik superguns you see on eBay?

Thanks!

schnuth · Joined: 06 Aug 2008 Posts: 50 Location: Toledo, OH

I use the Suzo Happ Power Pro with my HAS and it has served me well.

https://www.focusattack.com/suzo-happ-p ... er-supply/

ekorz · Joined: 06 Apr 2018 Posts: 7

GGA_HAN wrote:

Can anyone please recommend a good external power supply to use with either HAS v3.1 or the deluxe retroelectronik superguns you see on eBay?

Thanks!

sup! I've been using the 15A 110W Happ with both the 3.1 and the 2.0, it's solid. Ebay for cheap right here

DialKnight · Joined: 02 Dec 2017 Posts: 95 Location: PA,USA

For the Retroelectronik Supergun I just use an atx power supply from an old computer tower, no issues of note with an mvs or pandora's box. Although the extra wires and the size of the brick leave me wanting a cleaner setup

Geddon · Joined: 16 Apr 2018 Posts: 5

I’m happy to be joining this supergun ponzi. I have some jamma boards and recently got a umk3 so I’m starting with that. I ordered a retroelectronik pro and have an extra mk control panel. (I have a weird setup with an x360 in a mk cab that plays mk9 and the mk collection) but I like playing on the real boards and got a few pvms recently so thought this would be a cool project. I’m a little concerned with sync, but who knows, I’ll hook it up and see what happens.

So
Umk3 pcb —> retroelectronik pro —> Sony pvm 1943md. (I also have a few non Sony ones I can try). My idea for this is put the board, a power supply, and the supergun board into a 2u server chassis and it will be a dedicated umk3 to rgb box. I’ll have another supergun for some other jamma boards I have.

Anyway I’ll report back once I get all the stuff to put this thing together and maybe I’ll run into some fun along the way and consult you guys. I have a friend who is good with electronics so might be able to get it done with just his help. We will see.

I’ve decided I want some custom control panels instead of using an original panel. The original it way too tall. I want something that can sit on a table or desk and be playable sitting down. So I’m looking for a builder to make some oversized control panels. One thing I don’t like about the original panel is I feel it is a bit cramped for 2 player. So two separate panels will alleviate that. I also plan to style one out with a mk2 look and another with a mk3 look. I don’t care much for the original game or 4. So I’ll work the run button into the mk2 style one so both panels can be used with either game. I found some mk2 and mk3 kit arcade artwork that was used for conversions back in the day and a newer style overlay for mk3. So I’ll piece together something so it will look like a conversion. I guess I could try to get someone to make custom artwork but I kind of like the idea of using the old original stuff where I can. It might turn out a little ghetto but should have some charm to it. The panel will be way bigger than your typical fightstick. Should be cool. I’ll document as I go. Adding up the costs I’m starting to realize this is a pretty expensive project.

Geddon · Joined: 16 Apr 2018 Posts: 5

I’ve been working out my MK supergun project more and I think I finally have it. What was missing was sound. When I thought about it one of the things that makes Mortal Kombat arcade great is feeling the hits. So my plan is mount 1 or 2 car type speakers on the control panels. Each panel will be way oversized so I should have space. I also found some sweet looking coin return type light up buttons so those are perfect for the coin function. Fun stuff.

Geddon · Joined: 16 Apr 2018 Posts: 5

Got my supergun board and my umk3 connected. The horizontal and vertical is not centered. Kind of annoying. I think there is an extron unit I could use in between to make adjustments like that easy. this forum doesn’t host images? That is so old school. What do you guys use?

F34R · Joined: 22 Jan 2017 Posts: 1

I am pretty sure I went way over my head wanting to get involved in supergun/jamma/arcade. lol
I ended up buying the retroelectonik supergun.

I'll be using an MVS 1 or 4 slot, plus whatever jamma PCB games I'm able to get.
I want to use a dang arcade stick, but didn't research that well enough, basically not at all.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated in regards to controllers, adapters, arcade sticks, etc.

GGA_HAN · Joined: 27 Dec 2012 Posts: 172 Location: Chicagoland, IL

Does anyone have any experience using a picoPSU with a supergun?

It looks like it might be a good fit for my project (trying to stuff supergun and PSU inside a Hori Vewlix joystick case).

emphatic · Joined: 18 Aug 2008 Posts: 7552 Location: Alingsås, Sweden

GGA_HAN wrote:

Does anyone have any experience using a picoPSU with a supergun?

It looks like it might be a good fit for my project (trying to stuff supergun and PSU inside a Hori Vewlix joystick case).

It's pretty weak, but might work for some systems. It did run my CPS2 without a problem (only tested for a short time though) but my CPS1 made it smell burnt and then the Pico PSU died. I did have it running off the official power brick too.

Geddon · Joined: 16 Apr 2018 Posts: 5

I have the retroelectronik pro board and I’m wondering about the “on con” terminals above the power connector. Is that for wiring a power switch and would I be fine using a pc power on switch for it or should I use something else?

Geddon · Joined: 16 Apr 2018 Posts: 5

Another question about the retroelectronik pro board if anyone knows. I’m assuming the video sync provided on the terminal is ttl and the sync on the scart output is 75 ohm C-Sync. Anyone know for sure? The scart output has to be configured for consumer grade. I have not heard about it killing anyone’s ossc or framemeister. Anyway I want to know because I want to use the terminal outputs and the scart output. The terminal outputs to go to a pvm and the scart to go to an ossc. So I think I’m fine just wanted to see if anyone knew.

DashKrimson · Joined: 26 May 2010 Posts: 6

Hi guys, I have a Pana Custom connected by JAMMA to a Pandora's Box 5 (the orangey-yellow one with the swirl) and through SCART > BNC inputs to a Sony PVM-14L5. I wondered if any of you gentlemen and ladies know of a method to force the PB5 to output through the SCART in 15hz CGA mode? I am given to understand that, at least with previous iterations of the PB series, it was as easy as editing a hex file so that the machine no longer forced VGA output? Is it the same for the new model, and if so, how is that achieved?

Thanks for any help, it's really appreciated. If it's not possible, well, I still have an old CRT monitor I can try, I suppose...and a working LCD monitor I can stick with, but the laaaaaggggg

EDIT: Sooooooooooo, the PB5 isn't compatible with CRTs at all? Not even through VGA? Well, shit. I guess I'll try my PB4, then.

EDIT 2: That worked...sorta. I can get a picture now, but it has severe geometry issues, sync keeps going on and off, the colours are very dark, etc. I'm using a PVM-14L5, any ideas?

Jumpingmanjim · Joined: 10 Aug 2009 Posts: 9

Anyone got any experience with Tim Worthington's AV Driver board? Looking to use one in a consolized neo geo MVS and he gives an example circuit for using it in a supergun.

http://etim.net.au/av-driver/arcade/

tigerstyle · Joined: 19 Jun 2018 Posts: 3

Is there a way to contact RGB about his HAS supergun? I've heard he's going to be taking order soon, and I kinda want to replace my retroelectronik setup with something better built. I'm stuck in a weird situation because it would seem that the only way to buy an HAS supergun would be from the Sales subforum. My account is new and I don't seem to have access to that sub.

I was refered to this place by the fine people at the neo-geo.com forums.

I only own a couple of shmups on the saturn so I am not a super big time shmup fan, I'm more into puzzle games and fighters, i'm not big time enough to really engage in meaningful convos about shmups, so instead of posting low quality content, is there an email address I can reach him at?

I'm sorry , I'm aware that my question sounds rude, I understand how important it is for a community to have such rules, you dont want to get invaded by scammers and flippers.

I just feel like my other supergun is going to blow up any time now and I don't want to risk damaging expensive jamma boards. This is the reason why I'm here right now.

mr. newbie · **Posted:** Sat Jun 23, 2018 7:17 am

I acquired a pvm. Now i need a supergun

*i'm on the waiting list for the next HAS shipment. rgb isn't sure when that's gonna happen, and i'd like to get something while I wait. It's been an enormous pita getting to this point in the hobby. I'd just like to finally play my non-naomi collection at this point.

I have a neo geo mv-1, a few cps2 games, 1 cps 1.5, and cps1 final fight. I already have several console arcade sticks so anything built inside those (like japanese superguns) won't work.

options i've found so far

1. Windy - expensive. Also there was some ugly back and forth between the creator and some guy here which doesn't inspire confidence

2. Retroelectronik - Can't find a ton of reviews. seems ok? I am super intrigued by the ability to use an atx power supply. Though I hear time and time again one should only use an arcade psu for the adjustable 5v. If that's the case, why is this connector here? voltage display seems handy

3. makstrike - seems ok? handy voltage meter

Any recommendations? I know the ud-cps2 used a laptop power supply + some internal...something to get the right voltages. Regardless of the supergun, is there any way to use an enclosed, clean looking psu like that? Is there any hardware I could put between my non 5v adjustable psu and the supergun to adjust the +5v?

Hagure · Joined: 26 Oct 2017 Posts: 7

mr. newbie wrote:

I acquired a pvm. Now i need a supergun

*i'm on the waiting list for the next HAS shipment. rgb isn't sure when that's gonna happen, and i'd like to get something while I wait. It's been an enormous pita getting to this point in the hobby. I'd just like to finally play my non-naomi collection at this point.

I have a neo geo mv-1, a few cps2 games, 1 cps 1.5, and cps1 final fight. I already have several console arcade sticks so anything built inside those (like japanese superguns) won't work.

options i've found so far

1. Windy - expensive. Also there was some ugly back and forth between the creator and some guy here which doesn't inspire confidence

2. Retroelectronik - Can't find a ton of reviews. seems ok? I am super intrigued by the ability to use an atx power supply. Though I hear time and time again one should only use an arcade psu for the adjustable 5v. If that's the case, why is this connector here? voltage display seems handy

3. makstrike - seems ok? handy voltage meter

Any recommendations? I know the ud-cps2 used a laptop power supply + some internal...something to get the right voltages. Regardless of the supergun, is there any way to use an enclosed, clean looking psu like that? Is there any hardware I could put between my non 5v adjustable psu and the supergun to adjust the +5v?

I just recently completed my own setup & while I'm relatively new to all this, my experience might help you.

1. The lack of confidence is why I avoided Windy, though many friends use one and are pretty pleased with it. With that said, I'd personally pass on it, especially if you're planning to use a bunch of other hobbyist tech (gscartsw, etc.).

2. While these are the cheap solutions, they have even less QA/support than Windy & are apparently based on a design decades old. A few friends do use these with success though, but they aren't entirely happy with them and are looking to upgrade to HAS asap. But if you want *something* **now**, then this would probably be your cheapest & quickest investment.

But be warned, what you save in getting the cheaper supergun, you are liable to lose in fried boards & equipment.

3. I read of similar issues to Windy again during my research; it also blows up UD-USB converters. No personal or 2nd hand experience with them though.

UD-CPS2 is great! But nigh impossible to get now. DIY solutions are on the horizon, but no ETA.

A small, laptop style power supply would be great to have for my HAS (the original revision of it actually ran off of a laptop supply), but in the meantime I'm using a mp606 PSU. It's not *too* big, but the screw terminals definitely aren't as convenient as plug and play. I paired it with a short female CPU power cable which I cut off the plug, stripped the wires & added fork terminals to them to attach to the PSU, and then a male CPU power cable that has a switch on it for ease of off/on that plugs into the outlet.

Jasens Customs also sold a gun that is very high quality, and also very expensive, though it is also no longer in production. I remember seeing one for sale here on the boards……yup, it's still there.

There is also another supergun that is in development: Sentinel, which aims to hit the midrange between the retroelek & the HAS. Progress can be found here:
https://www.arcade-projects.com/forums/ ... prototype/
Again, though, it's still in dev, so there is no release date yet.

Finally, you could always build your own. Apparently it's not too hard, and while you wont have the bells and whistles of the HAS (and less compatibility, potentially more problems with other gear, etc), it's also a cheap solution, and you could build your PSU into it.

TLDR;
I'd wait for the HAS (totally worth it), but if you *must* have something now, save your money & get the retroelek, but take precautions with it, especially with other equipment.

PS: If you haven't already, don't forget to pick up some UD-USB decoders for your usb arcade sticks.

ChuChu Flamingo · Joined: 19 Feb 2012 Posts: 254 Location: United States

Stay away from retroelectronik. They drive the rgb video without a buffer afaik. Wait for the HAS.

mr. newbie · **Posted:** Thu Jun 28, 2018 6:51 am

Hagure wrote:

mr. newbie wrote:

snip

I just recently completed my own setup & while I'm relatively new to all this, my experience might help you.

1. The lack of confidence is why I avoided Windy, though many friends use one and are pretty pleased with it. With that said, I'd personally pass on it, especially if you're planning to use a bunch of other hobbyist tech (gscartsw, etc.).

2. While these are the cheap solutions, they have even less QA/support than Windy & are apparently based on a design decades old. A few friends do use these with success though, but they aren't entirely happy with them and are looking to upgrade to HAS asap. But if you want *something* **now**, then this would probably be your cheapest & quickest investment.

3. I read of similar issues to Windy again during my research. No personal or 2nd hand experience with them though.

UD-CPS2 is great! But nigh impossible to get now. DIY solutions are on the horizon, but no ETA.

A small, laptop style power supply would be great to have for my HAS (the original revision of it actually ran off of a laptop supply), but in the meantime I'm using a mp606 PSU. It's not *too* big, but the screw terminals definitely aren't as convenient as plug and play. I paired it with a short female CPU power cable which I cut off the plug, stripped the wires & added fork terminals to them to attach to the PSU, and then a male CPU power cable that has a switch on it for ease of off/on that plugs into the outlet.

Jasens Customs also sold a gun that is very high quality, and also very expensive, though it is also no longer in production. I remember seeing one for sale here on the boards……yup, it's still there.

There is also another supergun that is in development: Sentinel, which aims to hit the midrange between the retroelek & the HAS. Progress can be found here:
https://www.arcade-projects.com/forums/ ... prototype/
Again, though, it's still in dev, so there is no release date yet.

Finally, you could always build your own. Apparently it's not too hard, and while you wont have the bells and whistles of the HAS (and less compatibility, potentially more problems with other gear, etc), it's also a cheap solution, and you could build your PSU into it.

TLDR;
I'd wait for the HAS (totally worth it), but if you *must* have something now, save your money & get the retroelek, but take precautions with it, especially with other equipment.

PS: If you haven't already, don't forget to pick up some UD-USB decoders for your usb arcade sticks.

I don’t see a way to adjust the 5v on the windy too. Though I could be missing it
Agreed - i know a local guy and he hasn’t had any issues at least using the retroelektronik as a bench test device only
1. ya I can’t find much on any forum
2. My goal would eventually be to take this setup to a local tournament once a month or so. Super Arcade in Socal uses ud-cps2’s for their tournaments so i’m sorta trying to emulate that. i’d at least like my setup to have a small footprint
3. the Jasens Customs supergun for sale looks like the Bentley of superguns. I’d love to have one. But it’s an older revision (not that i know the difference). The primary issue is that it’s worth what the seller is asking, but I don’t have that kind of cash after buying boards

TL:DR - I should just wait for a has :/ - thanks for the help
** ud-usb decoders ordered

ChuChu Flamingo wrote:

Stay away from retroelectronik. They drive the rgb video without a buffer afaik. Wait for the HAS.

Well I bought one last night to hold me over before i read this

. why is the lack of buffer bad?

I’ve spent a ridiculous amount of time and money acquiring these boards. I’ve also spent months trying to get them to work in my chinese noir clones. Somehow in my new apartment the noir psu can’t output enough 5v. at this point im desperate to play these.

Shelcoof · Joined: 03 Nov 2008 Posts: 1354 Location: Canada

ChuChu Flamingo wrote:

Stay away from retroelectronik. They drive the rgb video without a buffer afaik. Wait for the HAS.

Alrighty..... I was just about to post my potential set up for getting started but now this is concerning me about the retroelectronik Supergun Progamer. This was the Supergun that got me itching to get into this.

What is the issue with having no buffer?

That said here's listed below is what I originally plan on setting everything up with.

I pretty much want to be able to play everything from Cave to Capcom games to Neo Geo games. I'm getting the Brook PS3/PS4 to Neo Geo converter because I already have a bunch of Playstation Fight Sticks. But not sure if the converter will support 6 button inputs. If anyone has a better solution please let me know.

I also have spare arcade parts and even casing for joysticks as well. I've watched a few videos and it seems like the board has wires you can directly wire up Joysticks and Buttons to.

As for video output. I thought I saw in a video you can wire the Super Gun directly to a VGA connector.
If that is not the case I believe RGB via Scart is the only output.

I plan on using this on my NTSC CRT TV with a Scart to Component Converter.
I also plan on using an OSSC and using it on a CRT Monitor with an HDMI to VGA converter.

Power Supply is simple ripped right out of an old PC of mine. But in a video I saw a person use some sort of Laptop power supply. Would be interested in going that rought to keep things minimal.

Is there anything I should know before buying anything. I just want to make sure I get things right and not have to pony up more money.

I'm super excited to be honest. Would be nice to play ESP.Rade or some Neo Geo and Capcom fighters.

Buy [To Purchase]
- retroelectronik Super Gun Progamer [Ebay 80$ USD]
- X2 Brook PS3/PS4 to NeoGeo Converter [Ebay 2X44$ USD][Not sure if 6 button is supported]
- Arcade PCB [Plan on picking up: Cave/Capcom/NeoGeo MVS]

On Hand []
- OSSC 1.6 [Use with LCD Monitor or HDTV]
- HDMI to VGA Converter [Pair with OSSC to Use with CRT Monitor]
- Scart to Component Converter [Use with my CRT SDTV NTSC via Component]
- ATX Power Supply [Will jack off old PC tower of mine]
- PS3/PS4 Fight Sticks by Hori [Tons of them]
- Sanwa/Seimitsu and Joystick Case
- CRT SDTV [Sony WEGA]
- CRT PC Monitor [At least 10 of them]

ChuChu Flamingo · Joined: 19 Feb 2012 Posts: 254 Location: United States

It isn't safe in the long term, sometimes even short term for both your arcade board and connected devices. If you want proof of it, just look at those new MVS 1 slot consolized from China that have been blowing out people's OSSC etc.

All arcade boards usually output TTL level voltage since it is meant to be connected to an arcade chassis that is high impedence. On the other hand your consumer equipment is expecting 75 ohm low impedence.

You can't just slap some resistors on the rgbs lines and attenuate it. RGBS output from arcade boards varies quite a bit too. Some are low, others high but all of them are still TTL. This is why even when you switch games in a arcade cabinet you need to adjust the rgb gains, sometimes you need to adjust the sync. There really wasn't a standard for it.

Shelcoof · Joined: 03 Nov 2008 Posts: 1354 Location: Canada

ChuChu Flamingo wrote:

It isn't safe in the long term, sometimes even short term for both your arcade board and connected devices. If you want proof of it, just look at those new MVS 1 slot consolized from China that have been blowing out people's OSSC etc.

All arcade boards usually output TTL level voltage since it is meant to be connected to an arcade chassis that is high impedence. On the other hand your consumer equipment is expecting 75 ohm low impedence.

You can't just slap some resistors on the rgbs lines and attenuate it. RGBS output from arcade boards varies quite a bit too. Some are low, others high but all of them are still TTL. This is why even when you switch games in a arcade cabinet you need to adjust the rgb gains, sometimes you need to adjust the sync. There really wasn't a standard for it.

I'm hating what your saying right now. But the fact is I know jack when it comes to these things. Really glad you chimed in regarding it. My OSSC is probably one of my most expensive piece of kit I own so far. Would not want that fried.

I looked up the HAS. It looks really cool but its like nearly double the price of the retroelectronik.
Guess I'll just have to wait a bit longer until my budget allows for it.

ChuChu Flamingo · Joined: 19 Feb 2012 Posts: 254 Location: United States

This might be more in your price range.

https://www.arcade-projects.com/forums/ ... /&pageNo=1

Shelcoof · Joined: 03 Nov 2008 Posts: 1354 Location: Canada

Now that you mentioned the CMVS I'm actually really interested in that as well.

Looked it up and heard good things

I'll check out this link as well
thanks

Shelcoof · Joined: 03 Nov 2008 Posts: 1354 Location: Canada

So.... I discovered Aliexpress..... and I saw this here

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/JAMMA-C ... 57003.html

I'm all over the place right now because I see so many things I want. The CMVS and this Supergun here.

Thoughts?

Hagure · Joined: 26 Oct 2017 Posts: 7

Shelcoof wrote:

So.... I discovered Aliexpress..... and I saw this here

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/JAMMA-C ... 57003.html

I'm all over the place right now because I see so many things I want. The CMVS and this Supergun here.

Thoughts?

This is literally the example @ChuChu Flamingo used when telling us of the dangers of buying cheaper superguns! Be careful

Shelcoof · Joined: 03 Nov 2008 Posts: 1354 Location: Canada

Well that sucks

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