chromium wrote:Does anyone have any thoughts as to why I get an intermittent wobbly picture with my Saturn through my gscartsw_lite and OSSC with sync regeneration on?
Works fine with it off and connected directly to the OSSC
Is your SCART cable using csync?
I'm not sure, I'll have to check. I got it from retro gaming cables years ago.
Would composite video as sync be better for Saturn?
chromium wrote:Does anyone have any thoughts as to why I get an intermittent wobbly picture with my Saturn through my gscartsw_lite and OSSC with sync regeneration on?
Works fine with it off and connected directly to the OSSC
Is your SCART cable using csync?
I'm not sure, I'll have to check. I got it from retro gaming cables years ago.
Would composite video as sync be better for Saturn?
That's the only difference what I can think of because here it works and on every switch revision change I retest every console I own in both modes.
I received my gscartsw earlier this week. Everything worked first time. I mounted it to the back of my cabinet with the thanks for the 3D-printed mounts shared earlier in this thread.
xterc wrote:I received my gscartsw earlier this week. Everything worked first time. I mounted it to the back of my cabinet with the thanks for the 3D-printed mounts shared earlier in this thread.
gordon-creAtive wrote:I just recieved my gcompsw. You may remember the hastle I had with the customs office when I ordered my two gscarts? Well this time not only did it arrive at home instead of my customs office, I didn't even had to pay any customs fees. I have no idea how that happened, but I won't complain
Oh, it's always random. One thing that I've learned is that you either have no issues or you have plenty of. I have another international customer who ordered both gscartsw and gcompsw. The first one had misleading tracking information but he got the package yesterday. Now his second unit wasn't scanned by USPS at all.
I don't know if the user SuperG is referring was me but i add my name to the list...
As of now, no package was received yet, neither the tracked one nor the one with tracking problem.
The first i know is at the custom (post site is showing me), the second i hope can be in its company....
will update in a few days (hope so)
RagingAvatar wrote:Does the gscartsw_lite work with JP21?
If not, any suggestions on a JP21 switch box?
No. JP-21 has a different pinout, and you risk damaging the gscartsw_lite by using JP-21 devices with it.
There used to be a JP-21-specific variant of the original gscartsw, but it was discontinued due to lack of interest/sales. The linked page has more info, as well as (I think) all the documentation you'd need to build your own.
As for JP-21 switches, the only one I'm aware of is the Selecty 21, and I don't know enough about it to actually recommend it.
xterc wrote:I received my gscartsw earlier this week. Everything worked first time. I mounted it to the back of my cabinet with the thanks for the 3D-printed mounts shared earlier in this thread.
RagingAvatar wrote:Does the gscartsw_lite work with JP21?
If not, any suggestions on a JP21 switch box?
No. JP-21 has a different pinout, and you risk damaging the gscartsw_lite by using JP-21 devices with it.
There used to be a JP-21-specific variant of the original gscartsw, but it was discontinued due to lack of interest/sales. The linked page has more info, as well as (I think) all the documentation you'd need to build your own.
As for JP-21 switches, the only one I'm aware of is the Selecty 21, and I don't know enough about it to actually recommend it.
There's a 3 port mechanical switch sold at Beep in Akihabara and made by this guy http://lolo-lunatea.akiba.coocan.jp/ Don't think it's available online, though. I haven't done extensive testing or anything but I haven't noticed any interference so I'm pretty satisfied with it.
RagingAvatar wrote:Does the gscartsw_lite work with JP21?
If not, any suggestions on a JP21 switch box?
No. JP-21 has a different pinout, and you risk damaging the gscartsw_lite by using JP-21 devices with it.
There used to be a JP-21-specific variant of the original gscartsw, but it was discontinued due to lack of interest/sales. The linked page has more info, as well as (I think) all the documentation you'd need to build your own.
As for JP-21 switches, the only one I'm aware of is the Selecty 21, and I don't know enough about it to actually recommend it.
The Selecty 21 is pretty decent actually. The best video on switchers I've seen for both formats is here:
However, I say this because I ripped the bandaid off myself, but unless you've already spent over $100 in cables, you'd be better off scrapping JP21 in favor of SCART. There's just so much more support and solutions for SCART that JP21 just needs to die off.
Yeah I'm going to have to bite the bullet and switch to EU SCART - the Selecty 21 doesn't have enough inputs for me.
Looking forward to a new batch of gscartsw_lite so I can get my order in then!
Look, jokes aside, if you want to challenge SCART standard and 5V 100ohm create a new topic and people might respond.
Seriously, you need to improve your knowledge on electronics because otherwise you risk being ignored by people who could help.
Here be constructive or leave.
Hey SuperG, any update on the new batch of gscartsw_lite's? We bought a FrameMeister for Christmas and have been on the lookout for an awesome Scart switcher. All roads point to your work . I'm just hoping I don't miss out on the restock
Syntax wrote:No need to be so defensive, i just want to know why you send 3v to 16.
I've never seen an example that does this.
Care to link some more pictures with 3v??
I'm repeating myself, SCART standard requires 1..3V on pin 16 to enter RGB mode. 1.8V is well in the middle of that range. Usually game consoles don't have any line in that range, that's why they use higher voltage through a resistor.
Ignorance is bliss. Just joining to say thank you on the update for more units next week =) I'm going to try my hardest to get one. Bought a FrameMeister for Christmas and have been looking for an epic SCART Switcher ever since, and this one is what everyone is pointing to. Thank you SuperG.
Syntax wrote:No need to be so defensive, i just want to know why you send 3v to 16.
I've never seen an example that does this.
Care to link some more pictures with 3v??
I'm repeating myself, SCART standard requires 1..3V on pin 16 to enter RGB mode. 1.8V is well in the middle of that range. Usually game consoles don't have any line in that range, that's why they use higher voltage through a resistor.
I understand the whole 1-3v thing, i just asked why you used 3v(the max) instead of a middle zone.
Your 5v example =2.14v
9v = 1.66v
12v =1.44v
Your 3v does not have a divider so it wont interact with the internal 75 ohm termination inside the set and is a solid 3v.
My issue is i RGB mod tv sets and use the divider to tune the blanking voltage which varies from set to set.
Syntax wrote:
I understand the whole 1-3v thing, i just asked why you used 3v(the max) instead of a middle zone.
Your 5v example =2.14v
9v = 1.66v
12v =1.44v
Your 3v does not have a divider so it wont interact with the internal 75 ohm termination inside the set and is a solid 3v.
My issue is i RGB mod tv sets and use the divider to tune the blanking voltage which varies from set to set.
Get my angle now??
Seriously?
Syntax wrote:Why is my gscartlite outputting only 1.8 v on pin 16 when it should be 5v across a 100ohm resistor?
Wont blank any of my sets..
So you measured 1.8V on pin 16, then I confirmed that it's indeed 1.8V and now you're saying that I'm outputting 3V ?
I never said anything about gscartsw outputting 3V, 1-3V is the SCART specification RGB range. What is "internal 75ohm termination inside the set"? 75ohm terminated RGB lines have nothing to do with SCART pin 8 pin 16.
Last edited by superg on Tue Jan 30, 2018 3:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Syntax wrote:
I understand the whole 1-3v thing, i just asked why you used 3v(the max) instead of a middle zone.
Your 5v example =2.14v
9v = 1.66v
12v =1.44v
Your 3v does not have a divider so it wont interact with the internal 75 ohm termination inside the set and is a solid 3v.
My issue is i RGB mod tv sets and use the divider to tune the blanking voltage which varies from set to set.
Get my angle now??
Seriously?
Syntax wrote:Why is my gscartlite outputting only 1.8 v on pin 16 when it should be 5v across a 100ohm resistor?
Wont blank any of my sets..
So you measured 1.8V on pin 16, then I confirmed that it's indeed 1.8V and now you're saying that I'm outputting 3V ?
I never said anything about gscartsw outputting 3V, 1-3V is the SCART specification RGB range. What is "internal 75ohm termination inside the set"? 75ohm terminated RGB lines have nothing to do with SCART pin 8 pin 16.
I think he's using the wrong syntax (scoff scoff scoff)
How frequently does superg make an updated version of gscartsw_lite and are the changes usually minor? I was going to purchase the next batch (currently at 1.5), unless a newer version is coming out in the next few months. Thanks...
zak wrote:I think he's using the wrong syntax (scoff scoff scoff)
True dat but the sad reality is that from time to time I have to deal with such people
I divide my switch userbase to 3 categories: those who knows and who will [experiment], those who doesn't know and cautious and finally those who think that they know [they don't]. The first two categories are sweet and a pleasure to work with. The third category is nothing but problem, they have multimeters and soldering irons and they are fearless! Just a few people honestly but they can ruin my day, destroy the switch which I have to fix, complain about non existing problems, pollute the thread etc. What is especially bad is when somebody is trying to improve their knowledge, visit this topic and read all the misleading information from these people posts.
bruceg wrote:How frequently does superg make an updated version of gscartsw_lite and are the changes usually minor? I was going to purchase the next batch (currently at 1.5), unless a newer version is coming out in the next few months. Thanks...
I didn't update gscartsw_lite version for while (a year) and I already discontinued gscartsw v3.4 because lite is better. Usually when I have some changes in mind I order a prototype batch (just a few units) to check everything, experiment with it maybe a month and then I might order something final. Revision change takes me around 6 months or so. So far the changes between .x revisions were minor.
. I'm just hoping I don't miss out on the restock 
?
