Anyone Know if a SCART Female Breakout Terminal Exists

[P.H.U.]

Looking if there a screw down breakout terminal for female SCART. Something like what is shown below exists for VGA D-SUB DB15. The closest I have seen are these wall plates, but they tend to be pricey, plus I don't need the wall plate.

Would make life easy to tinker around with SCART signals for a US bloke like myself. Thanks!

[citrus3000psi]

I have a scart board that you could wire up to terminals fairly easily.

https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/FbXTWD5Y

The thickness is best at 2mm but 1.8mm will work.

[Syntax]

I have a scart board that you could wire up to terminals fairly easily.

https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/FbXTWD5Y

The thickness is best at 2mm but 1.8mm will work.

Nice board, If only it had pads for termination resistors on RGB id print out a bunch to make life easier on TV mods.

[P.H.U.]

I have a scart board that you could wire up to terminals.

https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/FbXTWD5Y

Thanks bud. I have seen your PCB in my travels. It is brilliant. The drawback is I'd have to fab up the parts for each console's cable as I tinker around. An external breakout would allow for external tinkering of each signal. Then I'd just plug male SCART into whatever it is that I do fab up.

Since you have the skills and means, and given a breakout terminal like the one I posted above doesn't really exist on the market (aside from that waaaaay overpriced wall plate). Any thoughts about fabbing one up? Probably a pretty big niche for it. The VGA version sells like hotcakes; I use it all the time with Calamity's CRT_Emu drivers to hookup a PC directly or via fingerboard to a CGA monitor. Beats hacking up a VGA cable to connector a PC to a CGA monitor.

[citrus3000psi]

Nice board, If only it had pads for termination resistors on RGB id print out a bunch to make life easier on TV mods.

Done, https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/KI6d3X27

[citrus3000psi]

And here is a screw Terminal Design:

https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/5wUoTBKH

[Syntax]

Nice board, If only it had pads for termination resistors on RGB id print out a bunch to make life easier on TV mods.

Done, https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/KI6d3X27

Nice! The screw terminal one is really neat too.
After thought. Jumper pads to bypass capacitors incase they are not needed.

[citrus3000psi]

Nice board, If only it had pads for termination resistors on RGB id print out a bunch to make life easier on TV mods.

Done, https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/KI6d3X27

Nice! The screw terminal one is really neat too.
After thought. Jumper pads to bypass capacitors incase they are not needed.

I'll update it tomorrow.

[P.H.U.]

citrus3000psi, I am looking for a female scart connector breakout terminal that I can plug the male connection coming from the console into. For instance, here is the female connection:



If there is a breakout from whatever that female connection solders into, it would suit what I am looking for. If I am not mistaken, your solutions are to be embedded within the SCART male connection terminal?

[Syntax]

They fit like this, but may be harder to fit in females that have straight pins.

[P.H.U.]

They fit like this, but may be harder to fit in females that have straight pins.

Ahh, k. I am seeing the picture now. So it will work inside the head of a cable and can be used as PCB breakout.

I'll update it tomorrow.

Any chance you can add in the pads for the LM1881 chip as well?

[citrus3000psi]

Nice! The screw terminal one is really neat too.
After thought. Jumper pads to bypass capacitors incase they are not needed.

Done, https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/xwA1tQzU

citrus3000psi, I am looking for a female scart connector breakout terminal that I can plug the male connection coming from the console into. For instance, here is the female connection:

If there is a breakout from whatever that female connection solders into, it would suit what I am looking for. If I am not mistaken, your solutions are to be embedded within the SCART male connection terminal?

Ok that makes sense now, What female scart connector will you be using, so I can make sure I use the right footprint?

[P.H.U.]

Ok that makes sense now, What female scart connector will you be using, so I can make sure I use the right footprint?

Just like this works:

[citrus3000psi]

Ok that makes sense now, What female scart connector will you be using, so I can make sure I use the right footprint?

Just like this works:

Here you go. its a 1:1 breakout. This is obviously an untested project. So hope everything fits
https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/X2S30KLq

[P.H.U.]

Ok that makes sense now, What female scart connector will you be using, so I can make sure I use the right footprint?

Just like this works:

Here you go. its a 1:1 breakout. This is obviously an untested project. So hope everything fits
https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/X2S30KLq

Very cool. Question, are these made to order? If so, is there a lead time for this? Or did you make a run of these already?

[citrus3000psi]

Very cool. Question, are these made to order? If so, is there a lead time for this? Or did you make a run of these already?

I haven't ordered any. Do you know how to solder?

[P.H.U.]

Yeap, thru-hole soldering like this is cake.

[citrus3000psi]

Yeap, thru-hole soldering like this is cake.

I don't plan on ordering any. So order as many as you want from the link. The screw terminals are listed in the oshpark desc.

[P.H.U.]

I don't plan on ordering any. So order as many as you want from the link. The screw terminals are listed in the oshpark desc.

I finally got around to ordering a few. Thanks brutha. Any chance you can make some mods to the breakout board's design? Just to let you know, I am trying to connect a console to an arcade monitor. Thanks!

[MarkOZLAD]

Modify one of these. Easy and cheap.

https://www.amazon.com/Switchable-Adapt ... B003NF5OJ6

Can get them cheaper on eBay.

[P.H.U.]

Modify one of these. Easy and cheap.

https://www.amazon.com/Switchable-Adapt ... B003NF5OJ6

Can get them cheaper on eBay.

Yeah, that doesn't achieve what I am hoping for. Let me see if I can PM citrus3000psi for help.

[citrus3000psi]

I don't plan on ordering any. So order as many as you want from the link. The screw terminals are listed in the oshpark desc.

I finally got around to ordering a few. Thanks brutha. Any chance you can make some mods to the breakout board's design? Just to let you know, I am trying to connect a console to an arcade monitor. Thanks!

What mods were you wanting done?

[P.H.U.]

Want to incorporate an RGB amp and sync stripper into the PCB. Basically, if Bob's tutorials for the amp and stripper can be incorporated to the board, that would be great. The output pads should have the following:

AudioL - Output straight from SCART
AudioR - Output straight from SCART
AudioGnd - Output straight from SCART

Then,

Csync is stripped through the LM1881 w/no 75 Ohm csync output. Save that for later (post amp termination). Pipe output into THS7374 RGB amp

Then,

VGnd - Output straight from SCART
Red - Amped by THS7374 w/75 ohm termination to output
Green - Amped by THS7374 w/75 ohm termination to output
Blue - Amped by THS7374 w/75 ohm termination to output
Csync - Amped by THS7374 w/75 ohm termination to output. Also, add the ability to bypass amp and/or bypass LM1881 entirely via solder jumper(s). Helpful in the instance if the SCART cable has Csync already, or if amping Csync causes issues

SMD/SOIC8 for the LM1881 and THS7374. Throughole for the resistors and capacitors where possible. Would love to watch you pull this off so I can understand Fritzing better (or whatever app you are using). Thanks!

EDIT: Maybe you can record your work in Fritzing. I am sure I will use the knowledge for something else down the line if you can share.

[P.H.U.]

Hey citrus3000psi,

The SCART connectors I picked up from China came in. I have the horizontal and vertical mount connectors. Both have the same pin spacing. The PCB's will be here from OSH in a week or so. I'll let you know if they fit.

Any progress on adding in the LM1881 and THS7374 to the PCB's designs?

[citrus3000psi]

Hey citrus3000psi,

The SCART connectors I picked up from China came in. I have the horizontal and vertical mount connectors. Both have the same pin spacing. The PCB's will be here from OSH in a week or so. I'll let you know if they fit.

Any progress on adding in the LM1881 and THS7374 to the PCB's designs?

I haven't designed them yet, but I will.

[P.H.U.]

Awesome, can't wait! Will be a big benefit for us JAMMA arcade guys that want to hook up consoles to our cabs.

FYI, OSH Park shipped me the OG PCB's you designed. Will let you know their fit with those SCART connectors before the end of the week.

[P.H.U.]

Hey citrus3000psi,

The pins fit perfectly with the Chinese SCART sockets I got from eBay: https://photos.app.goo.gl/6kSCvQnry225Hask1. Two things though:

1) The back edge towards the socket is a little too deep. Protrudes past the clips and would get in the way of allowing for flush mounting. Probably shave 1/16" or so of an inch off the back to make this work.
2) There is less room for the vertical mount socket. But don't think this would be used in that instance.

Waiting on some TSOPP14 SOIC PCB's to arrive from China. Give this a go then to clamp, amp, and DC restore the video for hook-up to a JAMMA monitor with the THS7374/LM1881. In the meantime, I'll test continuity on these after I solder the connectors in.

[P.H.U.]

Hi citrus3000psi,

Ok, with some help, been able to figure out on another thread how to install the THS7316/74 amp series to work for the application of interfacing consoles to an arcade monitor. So if the PCB can be designed to do the following, that would be great:

Ability to solder in a standard SCART socket. Making sure the back of the PCB does not protrude too far behind the SCART pins otherwise flush mounting in a project box will be difficult. Here is a pic indicating where the back of the original PCB extends a bit too far.

AUDIO
Harvest the following SCART signals straight to solder terminals: Video ground, Audio-left, Audio-right, Audio-ground, 5vdc, and Ground

These signals should be positioned on one end of the PCB or apart from the video solder terminals. 5vdc and Ground will be used to power an optional small audio amp and should be positioned to closer towards the corner of the PCB as they may not be used.

VIDEO
Harvest and route the following signals to a THS7316 amp for video processing: Red, Green, Blue, 5vdc, Ground, outputting the processed RGB alongside Video-ground signal to solder terminals
Ability to disable the low pass filter (LPF)
NOTE 1: Red, Green, Blue must have 75ohm termination to ground on the input side to drive DC-coupling mode on the output which is required for arcade monitors. SMD resistors would be fine here as long as they are not too small.
NOTE 2: 0.1uf capacitor over ground and 5vdc is not necessary for this. This cap actually introduces noise for this application

SYNC
Harvest and route Composite Video, 5vdc, & Ground to an LM1881 circuit for sync stripping outputting the CSync signal alongside the processed R, G, B, and VGnd signal
No need to amp CSync but build option to route CSync to channel 1-of-4 on the THS7374 should the user wish to amp CSync through jumpering
All resistors and caps for LM1881 should be of the SMD variety (not too small of a package please). SMD would allow for a cleaner board.

Thanks man. Appreciate your effort on this!

[Syntax]

Man you've got some tall requests..

Theres no way anyone would be following that and making it for you. Maybe if you tried to draw it someone might.

You should go research audio amps and design a pcb yourself with audio and video amped (it easy if you try)

[P.H.U.]

Man you've got some tall requests..

Theres no way anyone would be following that and making it for you. Maybe if you tried to draw it someone might.

You should go research audio amps and design a pcb yourself with audio and video amped (it easy if you try)

I'd amend that by saying "it's easy once you reach the aha moment". Until then, there is a learning curve that is different for everybody.

I have spent a good 5 hours or so watching Fritzing tutorials. About 2 hours attempting to make this PCB. I'll get there eventually. Also, I asked earlier if he could record how he is doing it because reaching that aha moment comes faster with a push and some coaching. Don't think that I am not trying on my end. If citrus needs something from me so my ask is clearer, I'd do it.

EDIT: Maybe you can record your work in Fritzing. I am sure I will use the knowledge for something else down the line if you can share.