Questions that do not deserve a thread

[FBX]

FPGA knockoffs are "ultimate" in terms of video quality only. "Counterfeit" can be every expressed in every modern language. That's not a coincidence.

It's not really fair to call Kevtris's work a 'knockoff'. His work on the Analog Nt Mini is nothing short of superb. We can expect that same level of accuracy on his Super Nt I'm quite certain. For example, you can bet the Super Nt will be more compatible with official SNES games than Nintendo's own 1CHIP revision.

[DejahThoris]

D-Terminal adapter: be sure to get on with female RCAs. Makes it easier to connect a YUV cable of your choice. I think that's better than using a full length D-Terminal to RCA cable. The ones I've seen weren't great in terms of quality, while a 5 inch adapter doesn't really cause any problems when you're using it along with good cables.

Wondermega doesn't have RGB by default, but can be modded, since RGB is available internally.

I'll order up a short adapter tonight then. Thank you.

I didn't know that about the Wondermega. I will have to look into modding it. I'm going to assume I'll need a new cable specifically for it then.

[bobrocks95]

FPGA knockoffs are "ultimate" in terms of video quality only. "Counterfeit" can be every expressed in every modern language. That's not a coincidence.

You must feel the same about the 1Chip then, right?

[orange808]

FPGA knockoffs are "ultimate" in terms of video quality only. "Counterfeit" can be every expressed in every modern language. That's not a coincidence.

You must feel the same about the 1Chip then, right?

Did Nintendo manufacturer it and sell it as a geniune SNES?

Look, this is simple and true forever. There's no argument.

** There is real geniune hardware and there's reproductions. **

You do you and I'll do me. "Ultimate" is subjective.

[bobrocks95]

Just pointing out that it seems like a pointless distinction. When Nintendo made a system that strayed further from the original design than a "knockoff", rejecting that knockoff comes across more as some odd kind of brand loyalty rather than championing authenticity.

[orange808]

Just pointing out that it seems like a pointless distinction. When Nintendo made a system that strayed further from the original design than a "knockoff", rejecting that knockoff comes across more as some odd kind of brand loyalty rather than championing authenticity.

Authentic is what Nintendo manufacturered and sold.

Kevtris has made fantastic reproductions and they are very sensible and functional.

However, "Ultimate" is subjective.

[bobrocks95]

Just pointing out that it seems like a pointless distinction. When Nintendo made a system that strayed further from the original design than a "knockoff", rejecting that knockoff comes across more as some odd kind of brand loyalty rather than championing authenticity.

Authentic is what Nintendo manufacturered and sold.

Kevtris has made fantastic reproductions and they are very sensible and functional.

However, "Ultimate" is subjective.

Oh, wasn't sure you were specifically refuting FBX's "ultimate solution" statement. I thought you were writing it off completely by referring to it as a knockoff. I'm not sure I'd call it the ultimate solution either, though it will definitely be the most feature-complete/convenient.

[FBX]

Authentic is what Nintendo manufacturered and sold.

Consider the difference between the accuracy of the Nt mini and the NES Classic. One is 'authentic' and is an inaccurate mess of an emulator, and the other is a perceptively flawless HDMI + analog all-in-one solution for playing NES games. In this case, 'authentic' doesn't mean anything other than a trademark.

However, "Ultimate" is subjective.

Under your guidelines, absolutely. But you still had no cause to be calling Kevtris's work a 'knockoff'. Everybody knows that to be a derogatory term for something cheaply made to cheaply imitate an original product, which ironically applies more to the NES Classic than it does to the Analog Nt mini (if you can set aside the hangup about trademarks).

I'm not sure I'd call it the ultimate solution either...

Take the Super Nt, slap an official Nintendo trademark on it, and I guarantee you orange and everyone else would say it is.

[Einzelherz]

Just pointing out that it seems like a pointless distinction.

Perhaps you've never met orange808...

[orange808]

I'm not sure I'd call it the ultimate solution either...

Take the Super Nt, slap an official Nintendo trademark on it, and I guarantee you orange and everyone else would say it is.

That's off the map.

I didn't put words in your mouth. Don't put words in mine.

[copy]

It seems like the safest bet in the world that the Super Nt will provide the best SNES video quality. Strange that anyone would pick an argument over that totally harmless statement.

[orange808]

It seems like the safest bet in the world that the Super Nt will provide the best SNES video quality. Strange that anyone would pick an argument over that totally harmless statement.

FPGA knockoffs are "ultimate" in terms of video quality only. "Counterfeit" can be every expressed in every modern language. That's not a coincidence.

I like turtles.

[copy]

FPGA knockoffs are "ultimate" in terms of video quality only. "Counterfeit" can be every expressed in every modern language. That's not a coincidence.

Clearly the post of someone who is agreeing and not picking a pointless fight.

[orange808]

FPGA knockoffs are "ultimate" in terms of video quality only. "Counterfeit" can be every expressed in every modern language. That's not a coincidence.

Clearly the post of someone who is agreeing and not picking a pointless fight.

Clearly the post of someone who is agreeing and not picking a pointless fight.

[DirkSwizzler]

Anyone know a good source for Nintendo A/V multiout ports? I assumed I’d be able to buy them in bulk for a couple bucks each. But was shocked that all I’m finding are ones pulled from official consoles for quite a bit more than I want to spend.

[Guspaz]

There are various 3D printed ones available. For example:

https://db-electronics.ca/wiki/wikis/pr ... multi-out/

There are also some that are meant to fit the backplate of a toploader NES.

[DirkSwizzler]

There are various 3D printed ones available. For example:

https://db-electronics.ca/wiki/wikis/pr ... multi-out/

There are also some that are meant to fit the backplate of a toploader NES.

Excellent. Follow up question because I’ve never 3D printed. Is there a site similar to oshpark for 3D printing that people can recommend?

[Guspaz]

There's lots of sites, I've never used any so I'm not super famliar with them. Shapeways comes to mind as one of the biggest ones, and I know that Staples does it too.

[Mantrox]

Quick question, i ordered some years ago the wrong cable for my snes from retro gaming cables.
I ordered a NTSC cable instead of a PAL one.

Recently i was using the snes again and i went back to try to fix the wiring on said cable.
I removed the caps from the RGB lines, wired it for luma, hooked it up to my PVM 14L4 and the cable seems to be working fine.
No noise, colors seem correct, everything good.

But i noticed i don't have resistors on the cable. Not on the color lines, nor the Sync, what gives?
Is the PVM attenuating the signal from those lines, to the correct values?

Am i in danger of damaging something by using it like this?
I am also asking as i have an OSSC on the other end of the PVM receiving the signal and i don't want to risk killing the scaler.

[citrus3000psi]

Excellent. Follow up question because I’ve never 3D printed. Is there a site similar to oshpark for 3D printing that people can recommend?

I've used shapeways multiple times, would highly recommend them.

[Mantrox]

Any help on this one?

Quick question, i ordered some years ago the wrong cable for my snes from retro gaming cables.
I ordered a NTSC cable instead of a PAL one.

Recently i was using the snes again and i went back to try to fix the wiring on said cable.
I removed the caps from the RGB lines, wired it for luma, hooked it up to my PVM 14L4 and the cable seems to be working fine.
No noise, colors seem correct, everything good.

But i noticed i don't have resistors on the cable. Not on the color lines, nor the Sync, what gives?
Is the PVM attenuating the signal from those lines, to the correct values?

Am i in danger of damaging something by using it like this?
I am also asking as i have an OSSC on the other end of the PVM receiving the signal and i don't want to risk killing the scaler.

[Tigershark]

I have a two technical questions and should be very grateful for any help please.

I used to run my DC and Japanese PS2 through an HD BOx pro into my 1080 monitor and all was well. I have replaced my monitor with my old Panasonic LCD tv having bought a new TV for the lounge and here is where I have got into trouble. My old TV has a VGA port which I can put by DC straight through. It works well. However, the TV is not compatible with 480i signals which is of course what the PS2 is. Attaching my PS2 via component is not good because the lag is horrible.

Questions:

1. Any suggestions of a workaround?
2. Is it worth me buying the Xploder HD disc as that appears to force the signal to 480p which is compatible with my tv but the reviews of that don't appear to be good?

Thanks.

TS.

[Xer Xian]

@Mantrox: Not an expert on cabling, but I'm sure that luma and composite are 75ohm loads, so your OSSC should be fine. I think that not having resistors on the RGB line should just result in a higher than normal brightness/saturation. What you must be sure to take care of is the fact that PAL SNES's output 12v on what is the c-sync pin of NTSC ones (pin 3), which could damage your monitor (edit: but of course if you wired luma to the sync line then you've addressed this already).

@Tigershark: Soft-modding your PS2 is (nearly) for free and probably the best solution to force 480p, but some games won't display properly. Here's a couple of links if you're interested:
http://psx-scene.com/forums/f291/gs-mod ... ack-61808/
http://www.ps2-home.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1248

Another solution would be replacing the HD Box with another upscaler with digital out. The Framemeister and DVDOs are the most popular but not cheap - if you don't want to spend much you can look into vga/component to dvi/hdmi upscalers from such brands as Gefen, Kramer, Extron, Creston, etc. 480i is the worst to deal with though, you will have added lag and a less than stellar result on a HDTV no matter what.

[Mantrox]

Thanks for that.

[wyatt]

EDIT: Solved. Dip switches set to Down Down Up, unplug left molex connector at the front of the monitor, slowly adjust the 31kHz pot on the monitor board for sync.

Forgive me if I misspeak, I'm learning a lot of this as I go along.

I'm having a hell of a time trying to get my Xbox 360 to display correctly on my Blast City cab. By almost all accounts the console should plug right into the VGA DSUB port on the back of the crt and just work, after setting the dip switches to 31kHz. One user on YouTube says he had to pass the signal through an Rxi. That doesn't work for me (honestly I don't think the Rxi should be needed but not sure). A JAMMA PCB game works fine on it's own.

The monitor is a Toshiba LR27012. The 360 console resolution is set to 640x480. The correct dip switch setting on the front of the cab, under the monitor, appears to be DOWN DOWN UP, from what I can tell of the manual and online info (this guy discusses dip switch settings here https://www.aussiearcade.com/showthread ... s-and-more ).

This poster seems to have the exact same problem as me on a similar monitor and he fixed it by doing a "reset on my frequencies" by "hold the up and down button on my adjustment panel for 3 secs without any inputs connected", but I don't see any buttons with Up and Down. http://www.arcade-projects.com/forums/i ... /&pageNo=1

His pic is exactly what I get on my screen as well, but here are my pics anyway.

Spoiler

My monitor


What I get with dip switches on 31kHz


With the dip switches set to 15 kHz

[DejahThoris]

I'm having a hell of a time trying to get my Xbox 360 to display correctly on my Blast City cab. By almost all accounts the console should plug right into the VGA DSUB port on the back of the crt and just work, after setting the dip switches to 31kHz. One user on YouTube says he had to pass the signal through an Rxi. That doesn't work for me (honestly I don't think the Rxi should be needed but not sure). A JAMMA PCB game works fine on it's own.

Does your monitor work fine with other 31khz sources?

[wyatt]

My laptop won't display 31khz. I do have a VGA box for my DC but it would be difficult to get to. The 360 displays fine on an LCD at 31kHz.

[DejahThoris]

My laptop won't display 31khz. I do have a VGA box for my DC but it would be difficult to get to. The 360 displays fine on an LCD at 31kHz.

Right.

But we're trying to determine if the monitor just won't display 31k at all, or if it's just having trouble with the 360 in particular.

[wyatt]

Right, I don't have a way to determine that, my laptop won't display 31 kHz and I can't get to my DC.

EDIT: Tested the VGA out on a Pandora King of Air multi cart, same result. No good. Took the monitor out completely, seems like it's a Nanao MS-2930 by this pic.

Spoiler

[DejahThoris]

Right, I don't have a way to determine that, my laptop won't display 31 kHz and I can't get to my DC.

EDIT: Tested the VGA out on a Pandora King of Air multi cart, same result. No good. Took the monitor out completely, seems like it's a Nanao MS-2930 by this pic.

Spoiler

I'd start with a recap, since that often solves a ton of issues with very little work, and little cost, and it'll improve the picture anyway. If it's still not working with 31k sources after that, more in depth troubleshooting.