Cloning the Gamecube component cable

[cfletcher32]

This look like a great project. I've ordered the boards from OSHPark as well as the components. I was able to solder all of the components to the board. The only thing left is programming the chip. I have extremely limited FPGA experience.

My understanding is that the firmware posted on this forum needs to be programmed to the flash memory.

My question is, once programmed, will this then automatically transfer to the FPGA? If not what would I need to do to make that happen?

I ordered an SPI USB Flash programmer which will be here by the end of the week at which point I'll attempt to program the flash chip using the headers on the board.

Please let me know if I'm way off base here of if I'm headed in the right direction. Would be much appreciated.

[citrus3000psi]

You’ve got it. The fpga will read the flash at startup.

[Spidex761]

Has anyone confirmed/tested yet the dimple version of the plug? I want to place my order at shapeways but not sure which one is the better fit.

[Collingall]

Has anyone confirmed/tested yet the dimple version of the plug? I want to place my order at shapeways but not sure which one is the better fit.

I'm still waiting on production from shapeways to get to me, the dimple plug is likely going to require frosted detail plastic which is more expensive than nylon, I ordered it in both. I'll have them properly oriented and available in my Shapeways shop as soon as I test them, my markup is $1, you are also welcome to print from the STL files I made available.

I don't think the dimple will add much at all to the hold in the socket. The existing plug design holds extremely well and requires modest force to remove. I created the dimple design out of curiosity and due to a request.

[Woozle]

W25X40 (only spot-checked based on their datasheets). There are some "weird" chips on the market that do not match these requirements though, for example the AT45 series formerly by Atmel.

I faced the same issue with my Spartan 6 board of the M25P40 no longer being made, and I decided to go with the W25X40CL for the same reasons you listed. One issue is that Xilinx Impact 14.7 only supports the W25X40BV, but I was able to get around that by setting the Windows user variable "XIL_IMPACT_SKIPIDCODECHECK = 1". As expected it works fine with the same SPI commands used for the M25P40. Not sure if you or anyone had a chance to test this out, so I figured this might be useful information.

[thrasherx]

What length FFC is needed? That's the last thing I need before I publish my BOM.

7" works well.

I’m putting together an GCHDMI 4.0

Can you provide a part number for the FFC?

Also, I inadvertently lifted the pads under pins 10 and 11 of the FPGA. They seem to not be connected (NC). Can you confirm this to be true?

[Spidex761]

I'm still waiting on production from shapeways to get to me, the dimple plug is likely going to require frosted detail plastic which is more expensive than nylon, I ordered it in both. I'll have them properly oriented and available in my Shapeways shop as soon as I test them, my markup is $1, you are also welcome to print from the STL files I made available.

I don't think the dimple will add much at all to the hold in the socket. The existing plug design holds extremely well and requires modest force to remove. I created the dimple design out of curiosity and due to a request.

Alright thanks collingall for the info. I might just end up waiting as I am not really in a hurry.

[Spidex761]

Not sure if this is some sort of issue or a glitch in the GCVideo software, but sometimes on my gamecube when I boot into progressive mode, the resolution screen that pops up is grayed out. I tried to get a picture but it does not happen all the time. Has anyone else experienced this? I have pics to show what I mean:





So the resolution in the corner would show up the same grayed out color like what you would see in the osd. Not sure if this is something to worry about?

[citrus3000psi]

I’m putting together an GCHDMI 4.0

Can you provide a part number for the FFC?

Also, I inadvertently lifted the pads under pins 10 and 11 of the FPGA. They seem to not be connected (NC). Can you confirm this to be true?

10 goes to data3 on GameCube digital connector
11 is 3.3v rail

Make sure you are counting the correct direction. You should easily see the 3.3 line on pin 11.

Any 20pin .5mm ffc will work. Here is an 8in on digikey: WM11346-ND

[thrasherx]

I’m putting together an GCHDMI 4.0

Can you provide a part number for the FFC?

Also, I inadvertently lifted the pads under pins 10 and 11 of the FPGA. They seem to not be connected (NC). Can you confirm this to be true?

10 goes to data3 on GameCube digital connector
11 is 3.3v rail

Make sure you are counting the correct direction. You should easily see the 3.3 line on pin 11.

Any 20pin .5mm ffc will work. Here is an 8in on digikey: WM11346-ND

Thanks for the part number. I totally was reading the pin numbers wrong. It should be pins 60 and 61, (10th and 11th from the corner closest to the FFC connector).

[Unseen]

So the resolution in the corner would show up the same grayed out color like what you would see in the osd. Not sure if this is something to worry about?

Just a bug, nothing to worry about.

[citrus3000psi]

Thanks for the part number. I totally was reading the pin numbers wrong. It should be pins 60 and 61, (10th and 11th from the corner closest to the FFC connector).

60 & 61 don't connect to anything

[thrasherx]

Thanks for the part number. I totally was reading the pin numbers wrong. It should be pins 60 and 61, (10th and 11th from the corner closest to the FFC connector).

60 & 61 don't connect to anything

I got lucky. I see you’re using a Lcsoft CY7C68013A but can I use an AVR ISP ato program the board? I know I have to convert the bit to a bin file but that’s about it. I plan on adding headers, assuming they’ll fit in the case.

Also, is it confirmed that the latest software update works on the GCHDMI 4.0?

[citrus3000psi]

I got lucky. I see you’re using a Lcsoft CY7C68013A but can I use an AVR ISP ato program the board? I know I have to convert the bit to a bin file but that’s about it. I plan on adding headers, assuming they’ll fit in the case.

Also, is it confirmed that the latest software update works on the GCHDMI 4.0?

There are no JTAG holes/pads on the board. But you are welcome to solder to the pins of the FPGA.

2.4 works fine.

[thrasherx]

There are no JTAG holes/pads on the board. But you are welcome to solder to the pins of the FPGA.

2.4 works fine.

Maybe I’m confused. I thought the CS, MOSI, MISO, CLK, 3.3, and GND are for programming the flash. Is that not right?

[citrus3000psi]

There are no JTAG holes/pads on the board. But you are welcome to solder to the pins of the FPGA.

2.4 works fine.

Maybe I’m confused. I thought the CS, MOSI, MISO, CLK, 3.3, and GND are for programming the flash. Is that not right?

Sorry I read wrong, I thought you were trying to use a programmer for jtag. Yeah the MISO/MOSI are for the flash.

[Spidex761]

So my boards are coming tomorrow from OSH for the gcplug. Need to order the stencil and get to use my friends reflow oven when the time comes Just had a question with the spacer because I am not sure if it is needed or not:





Not sure if something was changed in the case in the second picture to not have spacers top and bottom? Or because of the PCI pins length? Hard to tell from the pictures.

[thrasherx]

So my boards are coming tomorrow from OSH for the gcplug. Need to order the stencil and get to use my friends reflow oven when the time comes Just had a question with the spacer because I am not sure if it is needed or not:

Not sure if something was changed in the case in the second picture to not have spacers top and bottom? Or because of the PCI pins length? Hard to tell from the pictures.

Are the pins standard parts, or custom made? I haven't seen any information other than the 3D model of the plug and the pcb. Your connector looks great though. How hard was it to 3D print?

EDIT: Disregard. I found the thingiverse page that talks about the pins, etc.

[citrus3000psi]

So my boards are coming tomorrow from OSH for the gcplug. Need to order the stencil and get to use my friends reflow oven when the time comes Just had a question with the spacer because I am not sure if it is needed or not:

Not sure if something was changed in the case in the second picture to not have spacers top and bottom? Or because of the PCI pins length? Hard to tell from the pictures.

The spacers are optional. The last 2 I built, I didnt use them

Are the pins standard parts, or custom made? I haven't seen any information other than the 3D model of the plug and the pcb. Your connector looks great though. How hard was it to 3D print?

The pins are found in PCIE connectors, like these. https://www.ebay.com/itm/2Pcs-PCIE-PCI- ... SwNyFWfmia

[Spidex761]

Thanks for the info citrus! I guess once my parts come in I will play around with that to see. Did you not have to use the spacers because of different pin lengths? Or were there modifications made to the current design? Honestly I think not using spacers would be easier figuring putting the pins in the connector alone seem time consuming as it is.

[citrus3000psi]

Thanks for the info citrus! I guess once my parts come in I will play around with that to see. Did you not have to use the spacers because of different pin lengths? Or were there modifications made to the current design? Honestly I think not using spacers would be easier figuring putting the pins in the connector alone seem time consuming as it is.

The spacers are easy to install. They just really aren't necessary because you can bend the pins easily to the board. On the first plug, I didn't bend the pins at all and cut them. The tedious part is inserting the pins into the plug.

[AetherSmyth]

The pins are found in PCIE connectors, like these. https://www.ebay.com/itm/2Pcs-PCIE-PCI- ... SwNyFWfmia

Regarding that, I'm not quite sure: while the Thingiverse description for the bare plug doesn't go into detail beyond "PCI", I just found this weekend that the description for the GCPlug model specifies that it has to be from old-school PCI, NOT PCI-E. I wouldn't have thought they would have changed pin sizes, but after getting a PCI-E x1 riser taken apart this weekend, I found that the pins were too short to go all the way into my printed plug while still leaving enough length to solder. There was also a flange partway down each pin that made it too wide to insert in the right orientation.

At this point, I'm actually finding it pretty hard to locate a plain PCI slot anywhere. The cheap items from China never turn up most of the time for me, so I generally have to pay the extra to get one from the US. All I've been able to find are these two:

https://m.ebay.ca/itm/5-Pcs-1-0mm-Pitch ... nav=SEARCH
https://m.ebay.ca/itm/5-PCS-PCI-PH1-0-6 ... nav=SEARCH

While both of them seem to be identified as PCI, they don't match up with the connector as I've seen it. They also identify themselves as using 1.0mm pins, when the plug's description mentions using 0.5mm pins. All told, I'm pretty uncertain where to turn to find pins that will be a sure fit.

Collingall, can you comment at all on all this?

[gruca]

At this point, I'm actually finding it pretty hard to locate a plain PCI slot anywhere. The cheap items from China never turn up most of the time for me, so I generally have to pay the extra to get one from the US. All I've been able to find are these two:

https://m.ebay.ca/itm/5-Pcs-1-0mm-Pitch ... nav=SEARCH
https://m.ebay.ca/itm/5-PCS-PCI-PH1-0-6 ... nav=SEARCH

While both of them seem to be identified as PCI, they don't match up with the connector as I've seen it. They also identify themselves as using 1.0mm pins, when the plug's description mentions using 0.5mm pins. All told, I'm pretty uncertain where to turn to find pins that will be a sure fit.

Collingall, can you comment at all on all this?

Those are PCI-E 1x and 4x.
Collingall's design works with the old PCI socket pins. There are quite a few listing on eBay that I see for a US seller that will ship to Canada. Here are a few:
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/170983498931
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/252674091327
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/122306090976
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/111178778812

[Collingall]

The pins are found in PCIE connectors, like these. https://www.ebay.com/itm/2Pcs-PCIE-PCI- ... SwNyFWfmia

Regarding that, I'm not quite sure: while the Thingiverse description for the bare plug doesn't go into detail beyond "PCI", I just found this weekend that the description for the GCPlug model specifies that it has to be from old-school PCI, NOT PCI-E. I wouldn't have thought they would have changed pin sizes, but after getting a PCI-E x1 riser taken apart this weekend, I found that the pins were too short to go all the way into my printed plug while still leaving enough length to solder. There was also a flange partway down each pin that made it too wide to insert in the right orientation.

At this point, I'm actually finding it pretty hard to locate a plain PCI slot anywhere. The cheap items from China never turn up most of the time for me, so I generally have to pay the extra to get one from the US. All I've been able to find are these two:

https://m.ebay.ca/itm/5-Pcs-1-0mm-Pitch ... nav=SEARCH
https://m.ebay.ca/itm/5-PCS-PCI-PH1-0-6 ... nav=SEARCH

While both of them seem to be identified as PCI, they don't match up with the connector as I've seen it. They also identify themselves as using 1.0mm pins, when the plug's description mentions using 0.5mm pins. All told, I'm pretty uncertain where to turn to find pins that will be a sure fit.

Collingall, can you comment at all on all this?

You are correct, PCI-e sockets do not have the correct pins. I found the best search term for ebay to find PCI sockets is to use "PCI Sockets" you can get sockets that have not been soldered to boards yet.

I'm not sure if this link will sell to ebayers outside the US, but here is an example.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre ... 1887743980

My original prototype was built with a PCI Socket I removed from an old PC motherboard I had in my junk box.

The model does have little flanges for the wider edge of the pins to slot into, the problem is that sinistered nylon tends to not be accurate enough to reproduce those slots. I ordered a new connector printed in frosted high detail plastic from Shapeways. I want to test durability with that printed in the horizontal plane, it's a bit more expensive, but significantly easier to pin up, as it can faithfully recreate the modeled part. If it is strong enough to last a couple hundred insertions while I test at home I'm going to recommend that material for the plug. Sinistered nylon is a pain in the butt to pin up, I've done 3 connectors and all three have taken me half an hour plus to pin. The first prototype I ordered was in frosted high detail and took me 5 mins to pin.

[citrus3000psi]

To add a little more.

This was the exact connector I bought: https://www.ebay.com/itm/AMP-PCI-PCI-EX ... 2749.l2649

[Collingall]

To add a little more.

This was the exact connector I bought: https://www.ebay.com/itm/AMP-PCI-PCI-EX ... 2749.l2649

I think they have that socket labeled wrong, it looks like a PCI-X (extended PCI) I had some servers back in the day that used those.

[citrus3000psi]

I think they have that socket labeled wrong, it looks like a PCI-X (extended PCI) I had some servers back in the day that used those.

Good to know, Thanks

[AetherSmyth]

Here are a few:
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/170983498931
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/252674091327
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/122306090976
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/111178778812

Thanks, that explains it; the shipping bumps all of those towards $30-40, and I hadn't looked that far up in price.

Since there were no affordable options in North America, I ended up widening my search and found this one: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/182068885325. Not sure if the seller will restock beyond the 5 bundles currently listed, but it might be helpful for anyone who lives where they'll otherwise get gouged on shipping or have to deal with the unreliable service from China.

The model does have little flanges for the wider edge of the pins to slot into, the problem is that sinistered nylon tends to not be accurate enough to reproduce those slots.

Oh yes, I see them now. They actually did show up on my printed connector now that I take a good look, but we'll see how well it works when the PCI socket shows up. Thanks again.

[thrasherx]

Sorry to be THAT guy, but I’m having a hard time programming the flash. I have a GQ-3X EPROM programmer and TSOP-8 adapter. The software I’m using that comes with the programmer claims to be able to program M25P40 flash with the adapter but it doesn’t clearly show which ZIF socket positions to use.

I also have a USBASP programmer, with a 10 pin adapter, and an ATMEL AVR Pro MKII.

Between these two devices, do I have what I need, or do I need a USB SPI programmer? If so, would the JRunner flasher work?

What software are people using? AVRDude seems Arduino specific.

I’m struggling to find tutorials of people programming anything other than Arduino microcontrollers.

I got the remaining parts for my 3 GCHDMI 4.0 kits and am exciting to test them out. Thanks for your amazing work!

[citrus3000psi]

Sorry to be THAT guy, but I’m having a hard time programming the flash. I have a GQ-3X EPROM programmer and TSOP-8 adapter. The software I’m using that comes with the programmer claims to be able to program M25P40 flash with the adapter but it doesn’t clearly show which ZIF socket positions to use.

I also have a USBASP programmer, with a 10 pin adapter, and an ATMEL AVR Pro MKII.

Between these two devices, do I have what I need, or do I need a USB SPI programmer? If so, would the JRunner flasher work?

What software are people using? AVRDude seems Arduino specific.

I’m struggling to find tutorials of people programming anything other than Arduino microcontrollers.

I got the remaining parts for my 3 GCHDMI 4.0 kits and am exciting to test them out. Thanks for your amazing work!

Check out page 16 on this document: download.zeitech.de/Documents/GQ-4X_Programmer_EN_Manual.pdf

That was just a quick google search, as I don't know anything about the GQ programmer. Hope it helps. I went the SPI route becuase its cheap