N64RGB Tim Worthington board with Deblur Help!

[GAINAX]

So I recently installed Tim's latest RGB board with deblur into a NUS-CPU-05 NTSC console and it worked fine. But then after a while I noticed some weird pinkish artifacts appearing on screen. Apparently this was an issue caused by wire interference and I needed to cut my cables shorter. After fixing this issue and putting everything back together it appears I had accidentally shorted the system in the process, and any PSU I tried to use with the system with would refuse to power on.

Going back into the console it seemed that my 3.3v input on the RGB amp was bridging to ground somehow so I fixed that and the system started powering on again. Since fixing this issue though, I have not been able to get a sync signal out of the system. And when I try and plug my console into a TV natively it looks like this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0mJcLFj ... e=youtu.be

The Framemeister doesn't pick up anything at all, except the audio.

Originally I had cut the composite video trace on the board and soldered CS75 on the RGB board to pin 9. Like I said before this was working at one point. Since then I have tried connecting the signal to pin 3, as NTSC snes cables apparently carry sync over this pin??
I've also tried sync on luma and I get nothing.

I've triple checked all my connections with a voltmeter and nothing seems to be shorting out. All pins on the DAC chip are corresponding with the correct pads on the RGB board.

I've been using a Snes NTSC scart cable for everything so far.

Anyone got any ideas what on earth is going on?

[Kez]

If you are unsure which pin on your cable is carrying sync, use a multimeter to check continuity with pin 20 on the SCART head, so you can at least rule that out.

[GAINAX]

I know the Snes NTSC cable I have is wired up to pin 3 on sync. It has a built in Sync stripper too, but still I get no picture when wiring the 75Cs to this pin...

[borti4938]

The cable you described does not make any sense at all: taking raw csync from pin 3 of the multi out and having a sync stripper build in to get raw csync... Why...???

It was working with CS75 connected to pin 9 (initially composite video). So connect it back to pin 9!

[GAINAX]

Okay the cable I've using today is an NTSC snes cable that sends sync from pin 9. I have CS75 soldered to pin 9 and I've cut the original composite video trace.

No matter what I do I cannot get the video to display. I can get an image on my Luma cables but I want to get it working with this particular cable.

It's driving me nuts. Is there anyway to see if I've damaged the board? It just feels like the sync signal isn't coming from the RGB amp.

[GAINAX]

Here I've got the scart cable plugged into the back of the N64 and I can see the Csync pad on the amp is connecting with the sync pin on the scart end.



So where's the bloody picture??

[Kez]

It certainly seems as though some damage has been caused, particularly given the issues you have had and the fact that it was working previously.

You mentioned the sync stripper - is that definitely getting powered? Usually they draw power from the 5V line, so if you have a built in sync stripper you also need to make sure that pin 10 on your multi out is producing 5V and that pin is connected to the sync stripper. Alternatively if you plan to use that cable exclusively for N64 you could just remove the sync stripper from the chain.

[borti4938]

So where's the bloody picture??

Double check if D0 is correctly connected between N64 and modding board.

[GAINAX]

The D0 pad on the RGB amp is connecting with the D0 leg of the MAV-NUS chip via the multimeter :/

[citrus3000psi]

The D0 pad on the RGB amp is connecting with the D0 leg of the MAV-NUS chip via the multimeter :/

Have you reconnected the composite video and verified that works properly?

If you are positive the install is good then looks like something is wrong with the board. Do any IC's on Tim's board get hot? That FPGA is only 7 bucks on digikey so its cheap to replace if it comes to that.

[GAINAX]

Despite the multimeter telling me everything was connected, I took apart the entire mod and started from scratch. It's all working fine now XD Thanks for the help everyone : )