Cloning the Gamecube component cable

[Seraphic]

If I didn't already have a GC video 2.0 plug n play I would definitely be interested in citrus3000psi's internal modification. Never the less, I am still interested in a SPDIF/Toslink mod (since my processor didn't like the enhanced DVI audio). Does any know someone that does this mod and the cost?

Check out this thread I made a while about about just adding toslink.

https://assemblergames.com/threads/game ... ink.62674/

It looks like a very detailed modification, but you were able to get it working?
Is it easier to implement and install TOSLINK when using your internal GCVideo board?

[noonan2678]

No problem, I updated my post – it was a 2.0.

Thanks for the help, Phil. I'm the "friend." I've reached out to Zeldaxpro in an effort for him to help me understand what went in the GC itself. I don't mind taking spare parts from another system to fix it. This particular one was region modded and I just don't want to worry about that again, so fixing it is ideal. I opened up the HDMI unit and there's nothing visibly wrong, so I fear it shorted at the chip level. I've asked him to repair the unit for me as this was NOT caused by anything other than normal use. I literally held the console with two hands and rotated it only to straighten it on my stand...maybe 2-3 inches. The HDMI cable had enough tension (also not wired taught on purpose, so there was give to it) to shift the HDMI unit enough for the pins to contact incorrectly. Instant electrical burning smell.

I do have version 2.0, where he added another piece to better stabilize it. It's a nice fit in and out of the socket, but nothing is preventing the corners from shifting around. I'll keep you guys posted once I hear back from him.

[strayan]

But the Gamecube doesn't output a 640x480 signal - it uses CEA timings with 720 non-square pixels per line.

It looks like it's being displayed in perfect 4:3 frame on my TV so the HDMI to VGA adapter must support 720x480.

It still looks much better than using the HDMI in.

While we're on the subject, I was going through the PC input reference chart in my TV manual and it lists support for a resolution of 720x400. Would there be any benefit to adding support for this resolution to the next iteration of the GCvideo?

The other question I have is about PAL games and NTSC ones. The PAL version of Ocarina of Time is 704x480i and I assume the NTSC version is 704x240p. Is the NTSC version going to look better because of the support for progressive mode?

[Unseen]

It looks like it's being displayed in perfect 4:3 frame on my TV so the HDMI to VGA adapter must support 720x480.

Sure, and your VGA adapter probably outputs it as 720x480 - but if the TV displays it as 640x480, it's not pixel-exact even if your TV only uses a 640x480-sized part of its screen to do so.

While we're on the subject, I was going through the PC input reference chart in my TV manual and it lists support for a resolution of 720x400. Would there be any benefit to adding support for this resolution to the next iteration of the GCvideo?

No, GCVideo does not support any frame rate conversion (720x400 is a 70Hz PC mode) or scaling except for line-doubling.

The other question I have is about PAL games and NTSC ones. The PAL version of Ocarina of Time is 704x480i and I assume the NTSC version is 704x240p. Is the NTSC version going to look better because of the support for progressive mode?

Try it?

[FBX]

I'd strongly encourage you to investigate whether your LCD TV support 1:1 pixel mapping via its VGA port and then buy an active HDMI to VGA adapter for the best PQ results.

I recall it looked muddy even through the VGA port when I tried the Dreamcast Code Veronica game on it (640x480p).

[andykara2003]

No problem, I updated my post – it was a 2.0.

Oh that's not good!

[citrus3000psi]

It looks like a very detailed modification, but you were able to get it working?
Is it easier to implement and install TOSLINK when using your internal GCVideo board?

Yes the mod works fine. The toslink only mod board will be an easier install.


Here is a shot of how the QSB work. This is an HDMI only board. I'm still waiting on the other boards to arrive.

[Extrems]

The other question I have is about PAL games and NTSC ones. The PAL version of Ocarina of Time is 704x480i and I assume the NTSC version is 704x240p. Is the NTSC version going to look better because of the support for progressive mode?

It's 704x480i/p with 640x480 internal framebuffer, no 240p.

[Ikaruga11]

So what does the board that Citrus is making offer that GCVideo doesn't? Why is it being made?

[citrus3000psi]

So what does the board that Citrus is making offer that GCVideo doesn't? Why is it being made?

There is GCVideo DVI & GC-Video Lite. Two separate hardware designs, with separate firmware.

This new design combines both on one board.

Unseen has modified the DVI Firmware to include the analog output on the FPGA

[leonk]

I like what citrus is doing! will it be a new branch of the firmware or a 2.4 version?

[citrus3000psi]

I started designing the last QSB that will go on the multiout pins and it dawned on me to combine both the digital out and multiout qsb's into a single PCB. This allows for the main board to pass the RGB signals back through the QSB. If you don't hookup a toslink or IR stuff; there will only be one single wire required to hook up, the pad wire. I can also grab 5v from the multiout and ditch the one voltage regulator.

[Link83]

Nice work citrus...but I have a few concerns about the new design

-It looks like there isn't any HSYNC or VSYNC pads on the new board?

-The RGB signals are not free/unused on PAL GameCube's, so this could cause issues since there is now only one fixed QSB with the RGB lines already connected.

-The same applies to the the Y (LUMA) pin (Which is s labelled "L"?) This appears to be connected to something? (Perhaps the mode pin?) This seems a bit risky as you cant be sure this pin will be free/unused. Also, a number of people use SCART cables which are currently wired to use Sync on LUMA.
I think it would be better to just have a 'mode' pad available, as with your initial design - that way you can choose to either fit a physical YPbPr/RGB switch, or just change the output mode using the on screen menu (With the potential risk of having to switch back 'blind' if you dont have the correct cable)

-CSYNC pin 3 is connected to JP2, but the Composite video pin 9 is not connected to anything? Most people would want CSYNC connected to pin 3, but some would want the option of disconnecting the original Composite Video signal and connecting CSYNC to pin 9 for use with pre-existing GameCube SCART cables which use Composite video for sync.

I can tell you have put a lot of work into this new design, and I mean no offence, but IMO I think it would be much better and more flexible to use two seperate QSB's as with your initial plan - even though this would mean having to manually solder on a few wires.

[bobrocks95]

Presumably if you have a PAL cube that already has RGB out, you wouldn't want to buy a combined RGB and HDMI board, right? You'd just want an HDMI board.

[citrus3000psi]

Nice work citrus...but I have a few concerns about the new design

-It looks like there isn't any HSYNC or VSYNC pads on the new board?
-The RGB signals are not free/unused on PAL GameCube's, so this could cause issues since there is now only one fixed QSB.
-The same applies to the the Y (LUMA) pin (Which is s labelled "L"?) This appears to be to be connected to something? (Perhaps the mode pin?) This seems a bit risky as you cant be sure this pin will be free/unused. Also, a number of people use SCART cables which are currently wired to use Sync on LUMA.
I think it would be better to just have a 'mode' pad available, as with your initial design - that way you can choose to either fit a physical YPbPr/RGB switch, or just change the output mode using the on screen menu (With the possible risk of having to switch back 'blind' if you dont have the correct cable)
-CSYNC Pin 3 is connected to JP2, but the Composite Video pin 9 is not connected to anything? I would expect most people would want CSYNC connected to pin 3, but some would want the option of removing the original Composite video signal and connecting CSYNC to pin 9 for use with pre-existing GameCube SCART cables (Like the official SCART cable).

I cant tell you have put a lot or work into this new design, and I mean no offence, but IMO I think it would be much better and more flexible to use two seperate QSB's as with your initial plan, even though this would mean having to manually solder on a few wires (Depending on the configuration required)

This QSB is not designed for PAL. Something else will have to be worked out for that. This design is more designed around me. I'm selfish But I'm open to ideas. There are jumpers on the QSB to help control what does what.

Available Scenarios as of now:
CSync wired to Mutliout CSync (JP2-A Jumped)
VSync Wired to Multiout Cysnc (JP2-B Jumped)
HSync Wired to Multiout Luma (JP3 Jumped)
Mode Wired to Multiout Chroma (JP4 A Jumped) (Component controlled by custom cable)
Mode Wired to Ground (JP4 B Jumped) (Component all the time)

If you jump anything to Chroma Or Luma you will have to cut traces or remove components.
If you install this to a PAL cube you will have to cut traces on the RGB/+12 lines or remove components. (Would you want this for a PAL, do PAL gamecubes output 480p RGB?)
If you need HSYNC/VSYNC Pads, I can add them back in there is room up top.

This solution isn't going to be for everybody. But I can add in more jumpers, to control if sync goes to Video/Luma.

The original board I have will be my first test. I wont get these new boards sent off until the existing proto is working. So that board won't be abandon. I can easily throw together a qsb that has pads to the multi out pins.

[Link83]

Presumably if you have a PAL cube that already has RGB out, you wouldn't want to buy a combined RGB and HDMI board, right? You'd just want an HDMI board.

The stock RGB output from a PAL GameCube does not support progressive scan

[bobrocks95]

Ah you're right, my bad. It's good to square away PAL support for RGBHV then, and RGBS too if it can be managed.

[Link83]

This QSB is not designed for PAL. Something else will have to be worked out for that. This design is more designed around me. I'm selfish But I'm open to ideas. There are jumpers on the QSB to help control what does what.

Available Scenarios as of now:
CSync wired to Mutliout CSync (JP2-A Jumped)
VSync Wired to Multiout Cysnc (JP2-B Jumped)
HSync Wired to Multiout Luma (JP3 Jumped)
Mode Wired to Multiout Chroma (JP4 A Jumped) (Component controlled by custom cable)
Mode Wired to Ground (JP4 B Jumped) (Component all the time)

If you jump anything to Chroma Or Luma you will have to cut traces or remove components.
If you install this to a PAL cube you will have to cut traces on the RGB/+12 lines or remove components. (Would you want this for a PAL, do PAL gamecubes output 480p RGB?)
If you need HSYNC/VSYNC Pads, I can add them back in there is room up top.

This solution isn't going to be for everybody. But I can add in more jumpers, to control if sync goes to Video/Luma.

The original board I have will be my first test. I wont get these new boards sent off until the existing proto is working. So that board won't be abandon. I can easily throw together a qsb that has pads to the multi out pins.

Hmm, well if your keeping both designs then it doesn't really matter, since I guess all it really needed was a separate MULTI OUT QSB (and even then a QSB is not strictly necessary, it just makes for an easier/neater install)

If your open to suggestions for the new design heres a few I can think of:-

-If theres space extend the castellation pads for the analog signals on the main board and label them so that a manual wire install is still feasible when used in combination with a DIGITAL OUT only QSB.

-On the QSB have CSYNC connect to a jumper with A and B positions connected to MULTI OUT Pin 3 and Pin 9, so the installer can choose where CSYNC will be connected to (Obviously they would need to isolate the pin on the motherboard first if its already being used for +12V or Composite Video)

-Have jumpers to optionally connect the HSYNC and VSYNC signals to the Luma and Chroma pins, so you can choose to have either the stock S-Video, or RGBHV (Nice for PAL consoles since S-Video isnt even available/connected)

-Have an accessible 'Mode' switch pad like the original design, so that a manual RGB/YPbPr switch can still be installed if preferred. There are some nice switches which can fit through the rear vents so no case cutting is required:-
http://www.mmmonkey.co.uk/wordpress/wp- ... switch.jpg

-Just an idea, but after thinking about which pins on the MULTI OUT plug are really required, i'm not sure if its 'essential' to have two ground pins? (Pins 5 and 6) So instead perhaps you could have the 'Mode' pin optionally connected to MULTI OUT pin 6 by a jumper (The installer would need to isolate Pin 6 from GND before installing the QSB) Then set the firmware so that if the Mode pin is grounded it selects RGB, and if not it selects YPbPr. Its been a while since I looked into this, but as far as I can recall all official cables use both ground pins 5 and 6 (Not sure about third party cables) which would make RGB the default. Then to build a YPbPr cable you would just leave pin 6 disconnected. Hopefully that makes sense?

Anyway, just a few thoughts I had!

[citrus3000psi]

This QSB is not designed for PAL. Something else will have to be worked out for that. This design is more designed around me. I'm selfish But I'm open to ideas. There are jumpers on the QSB to help control what does what.

Available Scenarios as of now:
CSync wired to Mutliout CSync (JP2-A Jumped)
VSync Wired to Multiout Cysnc (JP2-B Jumped)
HSync Wired to Multiout Luma (JP3 Jumped)
Mode Wired to Multiout Chroma (JP4 A Jumped) (Component controlled by custom cable)
Mode Wired to Ground (JP4 B Jumped) (Component all the time)

If you jump anything to Chroma Or Luma you will have to cut traces or remove components.
If you install this to a PAL cube you will have to cut traces on the RGB/+12 lines or remove components. (Would you want this for a PAL, do PAL gamecubes output 480p RGB?)
If you need HSYNC/VSYNC Pads, I can add them back in there is room up top.

This solution isn't going to be for everybody. But I can add in more jumpers, to control if sync goes to Video/Luma.

The original board I have will be my first test. I wont get these new boards sent off until the existing proto is working. So that board won't be abandon. I can easily throw together a qsb that has pads to the multi out pins.

Hmm, well if your keeping both designs then it doesn't really matter, since I guess all it really needed was a separate MULTI OUT QSB (and even then a QSB is not strictly necessary, it just makes for an easier/neater install)

If your open to suggestions for the new design heres a few I can think of:-

-If theres space extend the castellation pads for the analog signals on the main board and label them so that a manual wire install is still feasible when used in combination with a DIGITAL OUT only QSB.

-On the QSB have CSYNC connect to a jumper with A and B positions connected to MULTI OUT Pin 3 and Pin 9, so the installer can choose where CSYNC will be connected to (Obviously they would need to isolate the pin on the motherboard first if its already being used for +12V or Composite Video)

-Have jumpers to optionally connect the HSYNC and VSYNC signals to the Luma and Chroma pins, so you can choose to have either the stock S-Video, or RGBHV (Nice for PAL consoles since S-Video isnt even available/connected)

-Have an accessible 'Mode' switch pad like the original design, so that a manual RGB/YPbPr switch can still be installed if preferred. There are some nice switches which can fit through the rear vents so no case cutting is required:-
http://www.mmmonkey.co.uk/wordpress/wp- ... switch.jpg

-Just an idea, but after thinking about which pins on the MULTI OUT plug are really required, i'm not sure if its 'essential' to have two ground pins? (Pins 5 and 6) So instead perhaps you could have the 'Mode' pin optionally connected to MULTI OUT pin 6 by a jumper (The installer would need to isolate Pin 6 from GND before installing the QSB) Then set the firmware so that if the Mode pin is grounded it selects RGB, and if not it selects YPbPr. Its been a while since I looked into this, but as far as I can recall all official cables use both ground pins 5 and 6 (Not sure about third party cables) which would make RGB the default. Then to build a YPbPr cable you would just leave pin 6 disconnected. Hopefully that makes sense?

Anyway, just a few thoughts I had!

I've somewhat wired up essentially what you already have devised but on different pins. I'm assuming if the user wanted the HSync + Vsync they would NOT be using CSync.

Your method sounds better but the issue is that cutting out ground from one of the mutliout pins is not feasible. You'd have to remove the entire multiout connector since there are ground pours on both sides of the board.

Since I can't use a ground pin, I'm forced to use one of the chroma/luma pins for the mode pin.

Maybe I'm making things too complicated. Let me revisit and come up with something slightly different.

[citrus3000psi]

I made some changes.

I pulled the HSYNC and VSYNC out of the QSB and put them back as pads at the top
-I don't think many people will be using HSYNC/VSYNC so that is the reasoning behind this.

I made pads on the QSB for Multiout pins: Video/Chroma/Luma/Sync
I made a MODE pad on the QSB

There is now a array of jumpers, Available possibilities:

FPGA CSync can be jumped to: Multiout Video/Sync/Luma (These also connect to the pads on the QSB)
FPGA Mode can be jumped to: Ground & Multiout Video/Sync/Luma/Chroma (These also connect to pads on the QSB)

I think this might take care of all options?

P in the silkscreen is Multiout CSync.

[citrus3000psi]

*****This is an HDMI only solution. No RGB**** This is something I had been working on before the HDMI + RGB board. I had invested a lot of time into this design, so I didn't want to scrap it. This design will be better for people who ONLY want HDMI.

I documented my HDMI only install last night. The project is ready to go. This is the board to get it, if you want an internal HDMI only solution. This also has ESD protection on the HDMI port. As far as I know, there is no ESD protection on any GC-Video design to date.

BOM is listed in OSH park.

https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/K7X2uxXV
https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/6uNkT6dc
https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/Zte7gvJZ

The installation will be very similar to the GCDual board (RGB+HDMI) So if your curious about that, check out the link below.

Here is a rough install outline:
http://imgur.com/a/CVORR

I will be doing a handful of installs to recoup design costs. So hit me up if you would like to me to mod your cube. Price is 125 installed. I'm located in Indiana.

I will also take trades I'm looking for a nuon controller. Can't find one for the life of me.

[Ikaruga11]

I documented my HDMI only install last night. The project is ready to go. This is the board to get it, if you want an internal HDMI only solution. This also has ESD protection on the HDMI port. As far as I know, there is no ESD protection on any GC-Video design to date.

BOM is listed in OSH park.

https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/K7X2uxXV
https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/6uNkT6dc
https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/Zte7gvJZ

The installation will be very similar to the GCDual board (RGB+HDMI) So if your curious about that, check out the link below.

Here is a rough install outline:
http://imgur.com/a/CVORR

I will be doing a handful of installs to recoup design costs. So hit me up if you would like to me to mod your cube. Price is 125 installed. I'm located in Indiana.

I will also take trades I'm looking for a nuon controller. Can't find one for the life of me.

So does this board support all of the following at once?

1.) HDMI GCVideo with Unseen's firmware, with a cut-out slot right above the Digital A/V Out?
2.) Official GameCube Component Cables, plugged in normally to the Digital A/V Out?
3.) Pure Sync RGB, wired to the Analog A/V Out?

[citrus3000psi]

1.) HDMI GCVideo with Unseen's firmware, with a cut-out slot right above the Digital A/V Out?
2.) Official GameCube Component Cables, plugged in normally to the Digital A/V Out?
3.) Pure Sync RGB, wired to the Analog A/V Out?

1.) Yes
2.) Still don't have cables to test this out. But in theory they should work fine.
3.) No

This is an HDMI ONLY design. I've added some text at the top of the post to re-clarify this.

In terms of status for the RGB+HDMI solution. I will be getting proto boards soon. From there its assembly and testing and troubleshooting.

[Ikaruga11]

1.) HDMI GCVideo with Unseen's firmware, with a cut-out slot right above the Digital A/V Out?
2.) Official GameCube Component Cables, plugged in normally to the Digital A/V Out?
3.) Pure Sync RGB, wired to the Analog A/V Out?

1.) Yes
2.) Still don't have cables to test this out. But in theory they should work fine.
3.) No

This is an HDMI ONLY design. I've added some text at the top of the post to re-clarify this.

In terms of status for the RGB+HDMI solution. I will be getting proton boards soon. From there its assembly and testing and troubleshooting.

Thanks

[thrasherx]

Amazing work! I've been stalking your designs on OSHPark. Can U4 (M25P40-VMN6PB) be substituted with any other part? It's OOS almost everywhere as it's no longer manufactured.

Thanks again for your great work!

P.S. I actually just registered for this site to send this message. I've been around here for 5+ years but this message was what it took to finally set up an account.

[citrus3000psi]

Amazing work! I've been stalking your designs on OSHPark. Can U4 (M25P40-VMN6PB) be substituted with any other part? It's OOS almost everywhere as it's no longer manufactured.

Thanks again for your great work!

P.S. I actually just registered for this site to send this message. I've been around here for 5+ years but this message was what it took to finally set up an account.

You can get U4 from ebay/aliexpress. But looks like this should drop in: MX25V4006EM1I-13G. On my next digikey order, I'll buy a few and test.

[thrasherx]

Amazing work! I've been stalking your designs on OSHPark. Can U4 (M25P40-VMN6PB) be substituted with any other part? It's OOS almost everywhere as it's no longer manufactured.

Thanks again for your great work!

P.S. I actually just registered for this site to send this message. I've been around here for 5+ years but this message was what it took to finally set up an account.

You can get U4 from ebay/aliexpress. But looks like this should drop in: MX25V4006EM1I-13G. On my next digikey order, I'll buy a few and test.

Great! The only difference I see is that the M25P40-VMN6PB is 8-SO supplier design package w/ a 15 ms write cycle whereas the MX25V4006EM1I-13 supplier design package is 8-SOP with a 50us write cycle. Not really sure if that matters though.

[citrus3000psi]

Amazing work! I've been stalking your designs on OSHPark. Can U4 (M25P40-VMN6PB) be substituted with any other part? It's OOS almost everywhere as it's no longer manufactured.

Thanks again for your great work!

P.S. I actually just registered for this site to send this message. I've been around here for 5+ years but this message was what it took to finally set up an account.

You can get U4 from ebay/aliexpress. But looks like this should drop in: MX25V4006EM1I-13G. On my next digikey order, I'll buy a few and test.

Great! The only difference I see is that the M25P40-VMN6PB is 8-SO supplier design package w/ a 15 ms write cycle whereas the MX25V4006EM1I-13 supplier design package is 8-SOP with a 50us write cycle. Not really sure if that matters though.

SO = SOP Manufactures use different lingo. The footprint is the same size. The write cycle shouldn't matter.

[noonan2678]

Thanks for the help, Phil. I'm the "friend." I've reached out to Zeldaxpro in an effort for him to help me understand what went in the GC itself. I don't mind taking spare parts from another system to fix it. This particular one was region modded and I just don't want to worry about that again, so fixing it is ideal. I opened up the HDMI unit and there's nothing visibly wrong, so I fear it shorted at the chip level. I've asked him to repair the unit for me as this was NOT caused by anything other than normal use. I literally held the console with two hands and rotated it only to straighten it on my stand...maybe 2-3 inches. The HDMI cable had enough tension (also not wired taught on purpose, so there was give to it) to shift the HDMI unit enough for the pins to contact incorrectly. Instant electrical burning smell.

I do have version 2.0, where he added another piece to better stabilize it. It's a nice fit in and out of the socket, but nothing is preventing the corners from shifting around. I'll keep you guys posted once I hear back from him.

Quick update on this...

The eBay seller claims to be a reseller and not the "creator." He pushed back citing that he just sells them. Interestingly, his account has 12 feedback and all 12 are sales of the GC HDMI unit.
After some back and forth, he basically said that no one else had a problem and then refunded me the entire purchase price. So, I'm left with a fried, modded GC.

The problem is not with the original design, which was made available for free by someone else (sorry, forget who did that great work), it's with the execution of this unit specifically. I understand these things can
be challenging and appreciate all of the independent efforts to better the hobby. It's clear here though, that Zeldaxpro knew this thing would send 12V through the system if slightly off. That implementation
doesn't have to happen and even if it did, more time should have been spent to ensure that the unit is secure in the digital a/v out. I'm telling you guys, it moved around in there much easier than it should have.

Just be careful if you have one and consider this if you're in the market to buy one. I went ahead and just grabbed a component cable for a good price to be done with it.

[leonk]

something different today, nintendo component cable vs gcvideo hdmi.

Checkout the text at 5:50.

https://youtu.be/6TS32IHeorM