Just in case everyone doesn't know this by now, this is how GeneraLight's brain works. There is no such thing as grey. Everything is categorically better or worse than something else.
lol at the distinction between slot and shadow masks.
A PC monitor is fine (barring the size limitations) but TVs, at least in my experience, have much better color controls and since I watch way more than I play, that is a priority.
I really wish I had bought one of those nice Sony W6XXb/W7XXb/W8XXb TVs from 2013/2014/2015 that have like 7ms(camera method) of input lag and very good 480p upscaling and a decent picture...
There's still a W605b model I see in stores from time to time (must be a 2016 model). I think that one has very low input lag too, but sadly doesn't have native 120Hz refresh rate like some of those other models do.
Oh well. I see the 42W700B in the local listings from time to time. Looks like a used set will be the way to go for me.
Last edited by FinalBaton on Tue Jun 20, 2017 3:41 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Just in case everyone doesn't know this by now, this is how GeneraLight's brain works. There is no such thing as grey. Everything is categorically better or worse than something else.
lol at the distinction between slot and shadow masks.
A PC monitor is fine (barring the size limitations) but TVs, at least in my experience, have much better color controls and since I watch way more than I play, that is a priority.
Isn't shadow mask generally the best for color accuracy?
You can get monitors that let you access the LUT, they just cost a lot .
Extrems wrote:It's okay, we can fix the static contrast ratio of IPS.
Just in case everyone doesn't know this by now, this is how GeneraLight's brain works. There is no such thing as grey. Everything is categorically better or worse than something else.
lol at the distinction between slot and shadow masks.
A PC monitor is fine (barring the size limitations) but TVs, at least in my experience, have much better color controls and since I watch way more than I play, that is a priority.
Isn't shadow mask generally the best for color accuracy?
Color accuracy shouldn't have much to do with the way the light is oriented at the screen end. I think the general quality of the set would affect it more (e.g. emerson/westinghouse vs JVC/sony).
Shadow and slot masks are nearly identical save for slots being a little bit brighter (more efficient packaging of rectangles vs circles).
Just in case everyone doesn't know this by now, this is how GeneraLight's brain works. There is no such thing as grey. Everything is categorically better or worse than something else.
lol at the distinction between slot and shadow masks.
A PC monitor is fine (barring the size limitations) but TVs, at least in my experience, have much better color controls and since I watch way more than I play, that is a priority.
Just in case everyone doesn't know this by now, this is how GeneraLight's brain works. There is no such thing as grey. Everything is categorically better or worse than something else.
lol at the distinction between slot and shadow masks.
A PC monitor is fine (barring the size limitations) but TVs, at least in my experience, have much better color controls and since I watch way more than I play, that is a priority.
Once it gets to the stage allowing to print anything, I'll simply grab a few schematics for the most awesome CRT TVs/PVMs ever made and replicate them. Quite possibly modded up to a 50" size with assorted other modern gimmicks.
Sorry? What was that about "average human lifespan"? ><
Xer Xian wrote:Touchable holograms for me please - and a living room big enough to accomodate attack ships on fire off the shoulder of Orion
Edit: Actually I may exchange that for an LG C7 today ^^
Why would you touch when you can think? As VR progresses the next move is going to be cerebral control and movement. Apparently its been around since the 90's.
Hoagtech wrote:Why would you touch when you can think? As VR progresses the next move is going to be cerebral control and movement. Apparently its been around since the 90's.
Well no reason actually, I was just trying to think as far ahead as possible (btw, looks like touchable holograms are already a thing: link).
As I said, give me an OLED and I will forget about all these dream technologies right now we're finally at a point where we can start considering CRTs retirement (thanks also to enthusiasts' contributions like the OSSC).
Considering you could probably buy a supercar or a house with the money it cost, I will guess this is the future favourite fabric of fashion designers.
"- hey check my new oled suit
- nice, how's the lag?"
I read around a bit but didn't find much, what would be a better option for LCD backlight dimming? I guess CCFLs are a thing of the past?
Edit: Ok I'm learning now of edge-lit vs. full-array backlight - probably that's what is bad with the aforementioned display (ie edge backlight)? I'm quite the noob when it comes to LCDs
Xer Xian wrote:I read around a bit but didn't find much, what would be a better option for LCD backlight dimming? I guess CCFLs are a thing of the past?
Edit: Ok I'm learning now of edge-lit vs. full-array backlight - probably that's what is bad with the aforementioned display (ie edge backlight)? I'm quite the noob when it comes to LCDs
It's not an issue of edge-lit vs. FALD, it's that it uses PWM to change the brightness- so instead of the LEDs just changing their brightness to suit the situation, they pulse rapidly between 100% on and I guess completely off, to produce an average light value of whatever's needed.
My last monitor used PWM and I didn't realize it for a long time. I could see the flickering on any black background, it was extremely obvious, and it really hurt my eyes. I have my new one at around 3x the brightness and haven't felt any eye strain at all.
@Xer Xian: It's DC or direct current, what practically all monitors use today, as well as Sony sets. Check tftcentral.co.uk's articles, pcmonitors.info, and blurbusters.
iirc PWM at a high frequency is okay, but no less than 2000~2500Hz, I don't remember exactly but at some point the artifacts aren't really perceptible anymore.
The joke is that many TV sets hilariously still use 120Hz PWM, and it's not just the cheap ones.
Oh, I used to wonder what people meant by 'flicker-free' with regard to LCDs, now I know! Thanks guys
I guess that I either was lucky with the last two LCDs I got or I'm just bad at perceiving flickering - anyway I'll probably never buy an LCD again, so I don't care that much really
Actually I'm not sure the current oleds use PWM on the individual pixels or not, but since it's not a backlight that's flickering at a fixed rate behind the panel, I can't imagine a similar issue could occur. Nothing's seen on the motion tests anyway, no afterimages same as DC.
Obviously the OLED is better, but that's comparing $3500 to $350. Pretty easy choice.
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LG 83C1(OLED),LG 42C2(OLED),TCL 75R635(MiniLED),Apple Studio Monitor 21(PCCRT),SONY 34XBR960(HDCRT)
SONY 32XBR250,Samsung UBJ590(LED),Panasonic P50VT20(Plasma),JVC NZ8