Questions that do not deserve a thread

[Einzelherz]

I'd love it if the Pikachu Edition model happened to have the best video output of all, and everyone would struggle and pay unreasonable $ to add that horror to their nice dark-tech-looking setup.

I wish I had a pile of them so I could post "proof" of their superior video and audio signals just long enough to sell them.

[ApolloBoy]

Yesterday I picked up a Dell 2001FP monitor as a potential PVM replacement, largely because I've heard that it supports 15 kHz RGB through the VGA port. However, I discovered that the 2001FP does *not* accept composite sync and for now I'm screwed. Anyone know of an adapter or a circuit I can build that can split the composite sync into separate horizontal and vertical sync signals?

[Guspaz]

The gscartsw (the non-lite one) can take RGBS in and output 14 kHz RGBHV over the VGA connector. I know that the Extron sync processor that I have (the SC-210) can also convert pure csync to separate HV sync, although like many Extron devices it requires pure csync (no composite video sync).

[FinalBaton]

Do the Extron RGB interfaces need Csync? (my guess in no but I'm not 100% sure). because those can output in either 15kHz or 31kHz at the flick of a switch, and they're pretty cheap (also not 100% sure they can convert RGBs to RGBHV, I know they can do they other way around though)

[Fudoh]

Do the Extron RGB interfaces need Csync?

they do in RGBs input mode. The Green channel can accept SoG and it will accept Luma or Composite Video as well, but not as part of a RGB signal. If you want to feed RGBs into it you need a sync stripper in front of it.

[Ikaruga11]

So I did some research this afternoon.

It seems that the N64s with the improved picture quality all use the MAV-NUS video encoder chip, which began appearing in late production of CPU-05 revisions. This new chip can appear in any model of the N64, not just the colored semi-transparent Funtastic models. Supposedly this improved image quality only applies to Composite, which is achieved by sharpening the video. There is no difference in picture quality for S-Video and RGB on any N64 console.

[Leonprotos]

I recently acquired a PVM 2950Q, and have been using an Extron CVC 300 to convert my component only sources to RGBs into my automatic SCART switch via a 4-BNC -> SCART cable.

I've noticed that when playing games on the CVC 300 during certain brightness transitions or screen flashes that my signal will drop momentarily. I am not currently using a sync stripper. Does it have something to do with needing a resistor on the sync line, and would a sync stripper or something like the gscartlite's digital sync regeneration correct this issue?

[Einzelherz]

So I did some research this afternoon.

It seems that the N64s with the improved picture quality all use the MAV-NUS video encoder chip, which began appearing in late production of CPU-05 revisions. This new chip can appear in any model of the N64, not just the colored semi-transparent Funtastic models. Supposedly this improved image quality only applies to Composite, which is achieved by sharpening the video. There is no difference in picture quality for S-Video and RGB on any N64 console.

What was your sample size? How many controls did you use? What was the mean delta between MAVs compared to the other three?

In unrelated news, the practically NIB N64 I bought last week is, sadly, an MAV, which means I'll either need a cheap NS1 model or an N64RGB to get rgb. Bummer since I don't even like the N64.

[Ikaruga11]

So I did some research this afternoon.

It seems that the N64s with the improved picture quality all use the MAV-NUS video encoder chip, which began appearing in late production of CPU-05 revisions. This new chip can appear in any model of the N64, not just the colored semi-transparent Funtastic models. Supposedly this improved image quality only applies to Composite, which is achieved by sharpening the video. There is no difference in picture quality for S-Video and RGB on any N64 console.

What was your sample size? How many controls did you use? What was the mean delta between MAVs compared to the other three?

In unrelated news, the practically NIB N64 I bought last week is, sadly, an MAV, which means I'll either need a cheap NS1 model or an N64RGB to get rgb. Bummer since I don't even like the N64.

I didn't conduct any tests. Just gathered information from credible sources together.

Also the N64RGB board has slightly better picture quality and allows you to use de-blur, and can be used on any N64.

[bobrocks95]

So I did some research this afternoon.

It seems that the N64s with the improved picture quality all use the MAV-NUS video encoder chip, which began appearing in late production of CPU-05 revisions. This new chip can appear in any model of the N64, not just the colored semi-transparent Funtastic models. Supposedly this improved image quality only applies to Composite, which is achieved by sharpening the video. There is no difference in picture quality for S-Video and RGB on any N64 console.

What was your sample size? How many controls did you use? What was the mean delta between MAVs compared to the other three?

In unrelated news, the practically NIB N64 I bought last week is, sadly, an MAV, which means I'll either need a cheap NS1 model or an N64RGB to get rgb. Bummer since I don't even like the N64.

Why get one and RGB mod it at all then?

[Einzelherz]

So I did some research this afternoon.

It seems that the N64s with the improved picture quality all use the MAV-NUS video encoder chip, which began appearing in late production of CPU-05 revisions. This new chip can appear in any model of the N64, not just the colored semi-transparent Funtastic models. Supposedly this improved image quality only applies to Composite, which is achieved by sharpening the video. There is no difference in picture quality for S-Video and RGB on any N64 console.

What was your sample size? How many controls did you use? What was the mean delta between MAVs compared to the other three?

In unrelated news, the practically NIB N64 I bought last week is, sadly, an MAV, which means I'll either need a cheap NS1 model or an N64RGB to get rgb. Bummer since I don't even like the N64.

Why get one and RGB mod it at all then?

Near mint in box with an atomic purple controller to match the one I already have. I had the Voultar RGB kit lying around. And it was the only Nintendo gap in my lineup.

[bobrocks95]

Is an external framerate doubler for PC CRTs theoretically possible, and would it have any cost benefits over a linedoubler?

With no digital conversion you can't sample each frame twice, but I think there may be a similar trick that could be done in the analog realm?

[Xyga]

Vigatec processors ?

[RottenToTheGore]

Was looking at the custom video connector for systems, as shown here. http://www.gamesx.com/misctech/mypin.htm

I was wondering, where do you get ground though? As each line (R,G,B,L&R audio) would need it right?

[Guspaz]

Presumably the shield? That's a DE-9 (often called DB-9) connector, used for serial ports. Using the shield as the only ground seems questionable, because non-shielded cables won't connect the shields. Serial uses pin 5 for the signal ground, so a serial cable can get away with not wiring the shield.

IMO having a ground pin would be more important than having s-video on your RGB connector...

[RottenToTheGore]

IMO having a ground pin would be more important than having s-video on your RGB connector...

Agreed. How would I use the ground pin if I was adding BNC and RCA leads to a cable? Guess I'm not sure how one pin can be used on all 3 cables, isn't there separate ground for audio too?

I did see this option too - http://retrorgb.com/vgaconnector.html But it says to avoid the cables with audio out, which is what I wanted to try and do.

I could probably just add a separate audio out jack to the system, but an all in one sounds cleaner.

Thanks for the help!

[Guspaz]

BNC and RCA are both designed for the sheath of the plug to carry the return signal (ground). BNC in particular is a connector used for coax cables, which always have the shield connected to the sheath because that's how coax cables work. An example:



Coax cables are neat because if they're built properly they're highly resistant to external interference or coupling, but I'm not knowledgeable enough to explain how/why.

[RottenToTheGore]

BNC and RCA are both designed for the sheath of the plug to carry the return signal (ground). BNC in particular is a connector used for coax cables, which always have the shield connected to the sheath because that's how coax cables work.

Ah ok, I get that part. What I'm not following is where would the sheath be attached to on the other side of the cable? For example, if you wanted to wire 4 cables to a plug (say, db9 or db15), where would the sheath from each of them attach to if there's only one pin for ground?

Sorry, this is all new to me, but thanks for all the help so far

[strygo]

I picked up a Sony PVM 1954Q and purchased a SCART to BNC cable with a built-in sync stripper. For the most part, it works great with all of my systems. Everything is routed through a Hydra SCART switch and then an SB 1:4 distribution amp.

I am having trouble with one system in particular: an original PlayStation. I'm using a sync-on-luma cable and having sync issues. This very same cable works on a PlayStation 2. I have two other sync-on-luma cables (for N64 and Saturn) and those work fine as well.

Anyone have any ideas for what might be the problem and why only the PSX is affected? The SCART to BNC cable maker suggests that I pick up a PSX to SCART cable with a built in sync stripper. My sense is that this has a reasonably good chance of addressing my problem, but I'd like to understand the underlying problem. Thanks for your help!

[leonk]

I picked up a Sony PVM 1954Q and purchased a SCART to BNC cable with a built-in sync stripper. For the most part, it works great with all of my systems. Everything is routed through a Hydra SCART switch and then an SB 1:4 distribution amp.

I am having trouble with one system in particular: an original PlayStation. I'm using a sync-on-luma cable and having sync issues. This very same cable works on a PlayStation 2. I have two other sync-on-luma cables (for N64 and Saturn) and those work fine as well.

Anyone have any ideas for what might be the problem and why only the PSX is affected? The SCART to BNC cable maker suggests that I pick up a PSX to SCART cable with a built in sync stripper. My sense is that this has a reasonably good chance of addressing my problem, but I'd like to understand the underlying problem. Thanks for your help!

have you tried plugging the cabled directly to the PVM without any switchers? Also, why are you using a sync stripper? Your PVM will sycn on any and all sync types.

[strygo]

have you tried plugging the cabled directly to the PVM without any switchers? Also, why are you using a sync stripper? Your PVM will sycn on any and all sync types.

No, I haven't. I don't currently have a way to go direct. I've previously successfully used this sync-on-luma cable with an SB-2840 to a CRT and separately with a Framemeister and sync stripper to an LCD.

For some reason, I was under the (perhaps incorrect) impression that this PVM doesn't support sync-on-luma.

[Guspaz]

Sync on luma is the same as sync on composite without chroma. As long as the display doesn't require csync, it should be fine.

[Einzelherz]

Have you tested the PS1 for svideo? Since it's the only thing acting up, your luma connection might be buggered.

[strygo]

Does anyone know whether this display (Sony PVM 1954Q) should support sync-on-luma over its sync line?

This PSX and this same sync-on-luma cable works fine with a RGB to component adapter (SB-2840) and separately with a sync stripper+Framemeister.

I might have an S-Video cable for the PSX - I'll give that a try going direct if I can find it.

[FinalBaton]

Does anyone know whether this display (Sony PVM 1954Q) should support sync-on-luma over its sync line?

This PSX and this same sync-on-luma cable works fine with a RGB to component adapter (SB-2840) and separately with a sync stripper+Framemeister.

I might have an S-Video cable for the PSX - I'll give that a try going direct if I can find it.

I had the smaller version (1354Q) and it took composite video as sync just fine. I'm not sure I tested sync on luma with my playstation though. I think I did?

Anyway, I've often read/heard that these "latter" Sony PVMs accept all of composite video as sync, luma as sync, and composite sync (I,m guessing that's the case with your model).
Some earlier Sony PVMs require composite sync

[leonk]

Does anyone know whether this display (Sony PVM 1954Q) should support sync-on-luma over its sync line?

This PSX and this same sync-on-luma cable works fine with a RGB to component adapter (SB-2840) and separately with a sync stripper+Framemeister.

I might have an S-Video cable for the PSX - I'll give that a try going direct if I can find it.

I've owned 2 of these PVM's over the years. I've used sync on luma with it for both PS1 and PS2 with no issues. Unless you got a really old PVM, they all sync to composite, luma and csync. Unlike the BVM, PVMs tend to be very versitile. They can sync to a shoe string.

[strygo]

I just connected my PSX directly to the PVM with an s-video cable and that worked fine.

I should note that I was seeing a separate sync issue from my SuperGun to PVM. I had wired my own 8 pin din to SCART cable and hadn't previously wired the 5V pin, so I suspected that was the cause of that problem. That turned out to be correct. By powering pin 8 of the SCART cable via 5V from the SuperGun, its sync problem was resolved.

Based on that and the other testing I've done, my conclusion is that the 5V isn't making its way to the sync stripper in the SCART to BNC cable. Since this cable works fine on a PS2, I believe the problem resides with the PSX and not the cable.

The investigation continues...

[Guspaz]

Why not replace the SCART cable? The sync stripper is completely useless since the PVM does not require pure csync.

[strygo]

That's my plan. I'll update the thread once I get the cable and am able to give it a whirl.

[Star1]

My knowledge about signals is sadly as rusty as a very rusty thing indeed, so I figured I'd ask you guys.
Let's assume I was making a custom output connector for a console with common, ground. Would using a 1 core wire with the shielding braid as ground be sufficient for each signal line, or would I want to also use a separate wire for ground, and have that connected to all the shields? Also, is using the aforementioned single core cable with shielding any better than using two wires with no shielding (one wire each for signal and ground) with regards to interference?