gscartsw / gscartsw_lite / gcompsw switches support thread

[superg]

I will be using one of these http://www.ebay.com/itm/SCART-to-3-x-RC ... 2573364321

One scart output for video and one output for audio.

Spoiler

I wouldn't trust that part to handle audio without degradation.

Should be fine, audio is low frequency and all the lines inside that adapter are just passthrough on PCB.

[franckytaz]

On the other hand I just saw an headset audio output on the front panel of my Sony Trinitron TV... Maybe it will be easier to extract the sound from there to some HI FI system...

I'll check then come back here when I'll be able to do so

[naz]

Hello,

I have a few questions:

- I would like to connect one of the lite's outputs to a shinybow scart to component converter. Would it work??
- After this batch, when will be the next??? (in a few months? in a year?)
- Is the lite the definitive version??
- Will the gcompsw include a second output in a future revision??

Best regards!

[franckytaz]

I made the order, now I just have to be patient (like all of us I guess ^^)

[superg]

Hello,

I have a few questions:

- I would like to connect one of the lite's outputs to a shinybow scart to component converter. Would it work??

It should.

- After this batch, when will be the next??? (in a few months? in a year?)

2-2.5 months.

- Is the lite the definitive version??

If you mean "latest and greatest", it probably is.

- Will the gcompsw include a second output in a future revision??

No plans for that currently.

[MHzBurglar]

Hi Superg,

I have ordered both the gscartsw_lite and gscompsw and was hoping to combine my orders to ship when the gscartsw_lite is ready. Unfortunatelty I missed the opportunity to mention that on the Paypal transaction. Would it be possible to do? I couldn't find any contact info on your site, so I'm hoping that contacting you through here is ok.

[LDigital]

I ordered a gcomp on the weekend. It gave a confirmation at payment. Does a further confirmation come through when it's dispatched?

[superg]

Hi Superg,

I have ordered both the gscartsw_lite and gscompsw and was hoping to combine my orders to ship when the gscartsw_lite is ready. Unfortunatelty I missed the opportunity to mention that on the Paypal transaction. Would it be possible to do? I couldn't find any contact info on your site, so I'm hoping that contacting you through here is ok.

PM me your name and I will make a note here.

I ordered a gcomp on the weekend. It gave a confirmation at payment. Does a further confirmation come through when it's dispatched?

Usually you get a notification from paypal that your order is shipped and tracking number. So far all the orders before Sunday are shipped. I will ship the remaining ones today and tomorrow.

gcompsw is temporarily sold out, I'll have to finish soldering and there will be more.
I'll stop taking gscartsw_lite pre-orders tomorrow morning.

[superg]

I apologize for not having much time to ship all gcompsw's (just 5 units left to ship), lack of time, will finish that on a weekend.
Lites are being manufactured.

[franckytaz]

I apologize for not having much time to ship all gcompsw's (just 5 units left to ship), lack of time, will finish that on a weekend.
Lites are being manufactured.

Quality first, take your time

[ZellSF]

Take all the time you need.

I am of course only saying that because he already sent mine

[BitWinter]

SUPERG!

Man I am stumped- I can't find an email anywhere! LOL

Wanted to contact you privately but this seems to be the only way I can contact you that I could find-
- Just decided on the gscartsw_lite and saw pre-orders were closed Do you have room for one more to ship to NJ USA ?

Thanks!

[jboner1058]

Has anyone used a powered scart to component adapter with the gcomp switch? Just wondering if powered scart adapters put out a constant signal since I am going to use one for my gscartsw lite I have on order. Ideally I will have the gscartsw going to a scart to component out to the gcomp and then my crt. I just want to make sure autoswitching is going to work between the two with the curveball of the scart adapter thrown in

[Sunray]

I purchased the following CSYNC cable for Sega Saturn PAL which has a built in LM1881 sync separator. Did I just waste my money since gscartsw_lite has a built in sync chip? I want as little horizontal image shift as possible since it is hard already to see things on the left side of the screen with the CRT I'm using.

https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/seg ... SYNC-CSYNC

[Jimbo27]

Superg - will I be able to send one of thr gscartsw lites scart out to the ossc>xcapture-1 and the other scart to the Bvm and use the bvm to play and the other scart to capture/broadcast at the same time. Thank you

[superg]

Has anyone used a powered scart to component adapter with the gcomp switch? Just wondering if powered scart adapters put out a constant signal since I am going to use one for my gscartsw lite I have on order. Ideally I will have the gscartsw going to a scart to component out to the gcomp and then my crt. I just want to make sure autoswitching is going to work between the two with the curveball of the scart adapter thrown in

It should work, some gscartsw users convert the output to component using some converters.

I purchased the following CSYNC cable for Sega Saturn PAL which has a built in LM1881 sync separator. Did I just waste my money since gscartsw_lite has a built in sync chip? I want as little horizontal image shift was possible since it is hard already to see things on the left side of the screen with the CRT I'm using.

https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/seg ... SYNC-CSYNC

Yeah, it looks like that cable includes LM1881, if you're concerned by the horizontal shift you should get a cable without sync stripper.

To everybody: I'm currently shipping the remaining gcompsw units, everything ordered except lite combined should be shipped today.

[superg]

More gcompsw units are available at http://gretrostuff.com

[Smile_Kaiser]

I'm so sorry to even ask, I realize this is probably very annoying, but is it too late to get an order from this current batch? I had a business-related emergency and putting in my pre-order completely slipped my mind. I would love to have a switcher like this to complete my new setup.

If it is too late, when is the soonest I can put my pre-order for one of the next batch? And is it still looking like it'll be two months out?

[Gabeshack]

This may have been answered but I wondered if you ever considered making a dedicated out for the xrgb mini framemeister in jp21 since I would guess it's the most popular upscaler people are using? Or do you just suggest a cable to adapter the scart to jp21?
Thanks again for your work on this.

[RGB0b]

I successfully hooked up a toggle switch without lifting the pin. Because damn is that pin tiny.

as you can see in the MLiG review video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=998tBzpJhVo&t=14m29s . Resistor R39 connects ground to the LPF control pin. Giving a super easy solder point to work with.

The permanent-disable fix is to desolder and remove R39 (leaving that circuit path disconnected) and connect logic high voltage to the 7374 side of the resistor pads (The side closest to the "R39" text in the linked MLiG video). You can use a continuity tester to find plenty of logic high points to draw from. On my gscartsw 3.4 there was a 0 value resistor labelled R48 going into the VGA connector that served as a good continuity testing point for sources of logic high.

I wanted to put the LPF on a SPDT switch. So I removed R39 and attached one end to the VGA connector housing (continuity showed it as ground). I wanted to mount the switch on top of the sync stripper switch. I tried to solder it but couldn't get purchase on the sync stripper switch and just used kragle instead. Although, my kragle has broken loose after I knocked the installed switch against a cabinet frame. I need a better solution for that.

The switch works and you can definitely see a difference when toggling it.

I tried modding the 7374 itself and ended up breaking the pin on the chip ;/ Great idea about just removing the resistor! Basically, for people who want it off, follow this and tie it to 5v, but for people who want it switchable, hook it up to a switch to toggle between 5v and ground...right?:

I finally had time to mess with this more yesterday. As I suspected, the problem I had was that I broke the THS7374 pin. Dirk's idea was much better then soldering to the actual pins, so I replaced the 7374 then did a quick test of the mod. I assume for people that know they need it off 100% of the time, you can just wire 5v to the R39 pad. I actually need the option of on and off: On for when I'm going directly into a capture card and off for all other times. Here's a ROUGH idea of what I did:
- Removed R39
- Connected the output of a switch to the right side of R39 (closest to the writing), which goes directly to the LFP toggle pin.
- One input of the switch goes to the pin on an IC for 5v (filter off).
- The other input of the switch goes to the left side of R39, which is ground (filter on)


I could use your opinions though:
- Can anyone suggest better spots to get 5v & ground?
- Can anyone recommend a clean way to mount a switch, that's secure? I'd rather not cut the case, but if that's the best choice, I will. I'm open to any switch out there.
- Lastly, should I put the resistor that was in R39 anywhere? Just on the output pin?
Thanks!

[Guspaz]

Why not use epoxy/hotglue to fix the switch in place on the edge of the PCB itself? Presuming the leads come out the bottom of your switch, you'd essentially be affixing the switch by its side, and the presentation would be relatively similar to the existing switches. It looks like there's space enough to mount the switch on the underside of the PCB on the edge near R39. That's not the same side of the PCB as the other switches, but I don't think that'd be a big deal.

I can't think of any other way to securely mount the switch that don't involve cutting the plexi.

If you wanted the switch to be on the same side of the PCB as the other switches, maybe check if it'd be possible to route the wires through one of those slots next to the SCART socket screws? I can't tell from photos if there'd be enough clearance for a wire to pass through, but it looks like there might be.

[RGB0b]

All good points: Get the wire going to the chip through the board, then pull 5v & g from the top. I figured a last resort would be to glue it to either the PCB or case, but was hoping there would be a creative idea floating around somewhere

[superg]

I successfully hooked up a toggle switch without lifting the pin. Because damn is that pin tiny.

as you can see in the MLiG review video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=998tBzpJhVo&t=14m29s . Resistor R39 connects ground to the LPF control pin. Giving a super easy solder point to work with.

The permanent-disable fix is to desolder and remove R39 (leaving that circuit path disconnected) and connect logic high voltage to the 7374 side of the resistor pads (The side closest to the "R39" text in the linked MLiG video). You can use a continuity tester to find plenty of logic high points to draw from. On my gscartsw 3.4 there was a 0 value resistor labelled R48 going into the VGA connector that served as a good continuity testing point for sources of logic high.

I wanted to put the LPF on a SPDT switch. So I removed R39 and attached one end to the VGA connector housing (continuity showed it as ground). I wanted to mount the switch on top of the sync stripper switch. I tried to solder it but couldn't get purchase on the sync stripper switch and just used kragle instead. Although, my kragle has broken loose after I knocked the installed switch against a cabinet frame. I need a better solution for that.

The switch works and you can definitely see a difference when toggling it.

I tried modding the 7374 itself and ended up breaking the pin on the chip ;/ Great idea about just removing the resistor! Basically, for people who want it off, follow this and tie it to 5v, but for people who want it switchable, hook it up to a switch to toggle between 5v and ground...right?:

I finally had time to mess with this more yesterday. As I suspected, the problem I had was that I broke the THS7374 pin. Dirk's idea was much better then soldering to the actual pins, so I replaced the 7374 then did a quick test of the mod. I assume for people that know they need it off 100% of the time, you can just wire 5v to the R39 pad. I actually need the option of on and off: On for when I'm going directly into a capture card and off for all other times. Here's a ROUGH idea of what I did:
- Removed R39
- Connected the output of a switch to the right side of R39 (closest to the writing), which goes directly to the LFP toggle pin.
- One input of the switch goes to the pin on an IC for 5v (filter off).
- The other input of the switch goes to the left side of R39, which is ground (filter on)


I could use your opinions though:
- Can anyone suggest better spots to get 5v & ground?
- Can anyone recommend a clean way to mount a switch, that's secure? I'd rather not cut the case, but if that's the best choice, I will. I'm open to any switch out there.
- Lastly, should I put the resistor that was in R39 anywhere? Just on the output pin?
Thanks!

I'll check for the better 5v/gnd spots when I'll be home. There are some reserved pins on EXT header, potentially it can be soldered there, the location is not very convenient but it shouldn't be used often.

[zeruel85]

By the way, it is possible to solder only 2 wires and left the pull-down on its place. Only 5v and logic input is needed to be rewired to a switch.

Just my 2 cents.

[superg]

I'll check for the better 5v/gnd spots when I'll be home. There are some reserved pins on EXT header, potentially it can be soldered there, the location is not very convenient but it shouldn't be used often.

Ok, EXT pinout:
pin 4: 5V
pin 3,8: disconnected, can be used as intermediate junction points
pin 1: GND
You could mount the 3 pin through-hole switch to EXT pin 3 and pin 4, bend 3rd switch pin in a way to easily connect it to EXT pin 1 and what's left is to route a wire from R39 to EXT pin 3.

R39 resistor isn't necessary, you can leave it out.
As of other 5V/GND spots - there are plenty, it depends on where do you want to mount your switch, let me know the approximate switch location and I'll check.

[superg]

I'm so sorry to even ask, I realize this is probably very annoying, but is it too late to get an order from this current batch? I had a business-related emergency and putting in my pre-order completely slipped my mind. I would love to have a switcher like this to complete my new setup.

If it is too late, when is the soonest I can put my pre-order for one of the next batch? And is it still looking like it'll be two months out?

There will be extra units from this batch, I'll put them on sale after shipping pre-orders. Subscribe for the topic and you shouldn't miss it.

This may have been answered but I wondered if you ever considered making a dedicated out for the xrgb mini framemeister in jp21 since I would guess it's the most popular upscaler people are using? Or do you just suggest a cable to adapter the scart to jp21?
Thanks again for your work on this.

There was a JP21 switch version once.
You can get SCART to XRGB MiniDIN cable, check eBay.

[superg]

I'm next door in Singapore. Is that enabled?

He purchased gcompsw some time ago, messaged me yesterday and said that "Its been stuck on in transit, after reaching here, since last Friday. With USPS that usually means they have lost it.".
"It means DHL and all other couriers are excellent and USPS isn't." he said, and it's stated everywhere that I ship with USPS and of course he knew it before making an order and never asked to use DHL.
I dropped it off on May 16 and it has been only 6 days since the last tracking update but the attitude is that package is lost and I have to do something about it.
Nine days since package drop off and the guy is treating me with a PayPal case on Monday!
I enabled shipping to Singapore just because of that single order expecting no problems and now it's turned out that it's all my fault.
The guy said that my attitude is diabolical and my support is shit , what a morning...
I have some negative experience with some buyers but this is really over the top.

[clintkolodziej]

I'm next door in Singapore. Is that enabled?

He purchased gcompsw some time ago, messaged me yesterday and said that "Its been stuck on in transit, after reaching here, since last Friday. With USPS that usually means they have lost it.".
"It means DHL and all other couriers are excellent and USPS isn't." he said, and it's stated everywhere that I ship with USPS and of course he knew it before making an order and never asked to use DHL.
I dropped it off on May 16 and it has been only 6 days since the last tracking update but the attitude is that package is lost and I have to do something about it.
Nine days since package drop off and the guy is treating me with a PayPal case on Monday!
I enabled shipping to Singapore just because of that single order expecting no problems and now it's turned out that it's all my fault.
The guy said that my attitude is diabolical and my support is shit , what a morning...
I have some negative experience with some buyers but this is really over the top.

Damn that sucks, sorry superg! Might not even be lost. When I ordered my Garo from Beharbros it sat in "Origin Post is Preparing Shipment" status when exiting Turkey for 4 days, then sat in customs for another 3 days once it hit the US. Each time a few days went past with no updates I got worried, but it just took a little patience. It could be just that US->Singapore shipments take more time at the border.

[Guspaz]

To be fair, that's more an issue with an unreasonable customer than the country of Singapore in general.

[superg]

To be fair, that's more an issue with an unreasonable customer than the country of Singapore in general.

True, but he was the first one ordering from that country.
For me it's just a risk management, I'd rather not to ship there if a loss chances are high. Although I still believe the package will be delivered in this case.