Philips CDI Power Issue

[radiokid]

Hi

Having a problem with a CDI (revision 210\40) I bought recently, it was listed as temperamental as sometimes it would not power on. I witnessed it powered on at the sellers house, but I have not been able to get it going.

I have opened her up and everything looks ok. No bulging caps or obvious signs of anything. I have check the voltages coming from the PSU and they look to be as follows (also shown in the attached pic)

+5v/+5v/+5v/G/G/G/+25v/-5v

When switched on sometimes the CD drive makes some noises, as if the motor is going a little haywire, and the lens moves up and down sometimes, and also forward and back on the rail. However those are the only signs of life.

See below for a picture of my board and the voltages I am getting from the PSU.

[citrus3000psi]

I just worked on a wondermega that had some weird power issues that I got work

First is there schematic available for this? That would help alot.

I'd first unplug the cd-rom and boot the console up. Any video?
Unplug the power board from the motherboard, turn it on and measure voltages. Are they the same as before?
I'd also really like to confirm that voltages are correct coming from the power rail. (The wondermega had a adjustable vreg outputting 3.5v. I thought this was correct but the voltage should have been actually 8.5v, if I had a schematic then I would learned this the easy way)


Check for shorts to ground with a multimeter on each board separately unplugged.

[radiokid]

Hi and thanks for the reply, I have managed to track down a service manual, if you want to take a look it's here https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0JC3F ... sp=sharing.

My model is covered on pages 55-96, so far I've only tested it with the power supply connected to the main board, and have also tried it with and without the CD drive attached.

This evening I plan on removing it completely from its casing and testing for any dodgy grounds like you suggest.

I believe all my voltages are correct, on page 71 of the manual it shows the PCB schematic and part M1 shows the same voltages I am seeing, so hopefully that means the PSU is working as intended.

[citrus3000psi]

Hi and thanks for the reply, I have managed to track down a service manual, if you want to take a look it's here https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0JC3F ... sp=sharing.

My model is covered on pages 55-96, so far I've only tested it with the power supply connected to the main board, and have also tried it with and without the CD drive attached.

This evening I plan on removing it completely from its casing and testing for any dodgy grounds like you suggest.

I believe all my voltages are correct, on page 71 of the manual it shows the PCB schematic and part M1 shows the same voltages I am seeing, so hopefully that means the PSU is working as intended.

Yeah those voltages look good. Before you dive in, I'd still recommend replacing the caps. Just because they look good doesn't mean they are. The issue that solved the wondermega was a cold solder joint on a small pnp transistor.

[radiokid]

Hi and thanks for the reply, I have managed to track down a service manual, if you want to take a look it's here https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0JC3F ... sp=sharing.

My model is covered on pages 55-96, so far I've only tested it with the power supply connected to the main board, and have also tried it with and without the CD drive attached.

This evening I plan on removing it completely from its casing and testing for any dodgy grounds like you suggest.

I believe all my voltages are correct, on page 71 of the manual it shows the PCB schematic and part M1 shows the same voltages I am seeing, so hopefully that means the PSU is working as intended.

Yeah those voltages look good. Before you dive in, I'd still recommend replacing the caps. Just because they look good doesn't mean they are. The issue that solved the wondermega was a cold solder joint on a small pnp transistor.

I'm wary of touching the caps on the power supply, gave myself a nasty shock yesterday handling it even though i had unplugged it all; obviously I hadn't considered the stored voltage in the PSU caps.

[radiokid]

Damn, i've tested all the component points listed on page 86 (7.3.1) of the service manual, and they all come back with 5v.

Removed the mainboard from the casing, unplugged the CD drive and front panel.

Still no joy.... I guess I should start replacing caps. Can replacing caps really help with an issue like mine? if the 5v line is getting where it needs to around the board.

[citrus3000psi]

Damn, i've tested all the component points listed on page 86 (7.3.1) of the service manual, and they all come back with 5v.

Removed the mainboard from the casing, unplugged the CD drive and front panel.

Still no joy.... I guess I should start replacing caps. Can replacing caps really help with an issue like mine? if the 5v line is getting where it needs to around the board.

It depends how the caps used but you can delay the startup of an IC with a cap etc.

Do you get anything on the front LCD?

[radiokid]

Damn, i've tested all the component points listed on page 86 (7.3.1) of the service manual, and they all come back with 5v.

Removed the mainboard from the casing, unplugged the CD drive and front panel.

Still no joy.... I guess I should start replacing caps. Can replacing caps really help with an issue like mine? if the 5v line is getting where it needs to around the board.

It depends how the caps used but you can delay the startup of an IC with a cap etc.

Do you get anything on the front LCD?

Nope nothing on the front, the only signs that it has any life are the servo on the CD lens and rail it moves along, also when plugged into the TV via Scart it detects the voltage on the relevant pin and changes the input.

Given that all the power outputs from the PSU look good and within spec, I'm saying that its not the PSU. Hard to test with another however as it outputs a strange 25v line which is hard for me to duplicate with another PSU.

There are various caps on the main PCB, and potentially one of those is causing the issue; I'll just swap them all. It is strange however, that is was working occasionally before I got it home from the seller, and now I can't get it to work even once.

[citrus3000psi]

Damn, i've tested all the component points listed on page 86 (7.3.1) of the service manual, and they all come back with 5v.

Removed the mainboard from the casing, unplugged the CD drive and front panel.

Still no joy.... I guess I should start replacing caps. Can replacing caps really help with an issue like mine? if the 5v line is getting where it needs to around the board.

It depends how the caps used but you can delay the startup of an IC with a cap etc.

Do you get anything on the front LCD?

Nope nothing on the front, the only signs that it has any life are the servo on the CD lens and rail it moves along, also when plugged into the TV via Scart it detects the voltage on the relevant pin and changes the input.

Given that all the power outputs from the PSU look good and within spec, I'm saying that its not the PSU. Hard to test with another however as it outputs a strange 25v line which is hard for me to duplicate with another PSU.

There are various caps on the main PCB, and potentially one of those is causing the issue; I'll just swap them all. It is strange however, that is was working occasionally before I got it home from the seller, and now I can't get it to work even once.

Have you tried just leaving the console on for 20-30 mins. Maybe allow something to warm up and make contact again.

[radiokid]

Have you tried just leaving the console on for 20-30 mins. Maybe allow something to warm up and make contact again.

Actually no, i haven't tried that. However come to think of it the seller did mention that often it would work if he left it switched on for a while... What would that indicate?

[citrus3000psi]

Have you tried just leaving the console on for 20-30 mins. Maybe allow something to warm up and make contact again.

Actually no, i haven't tried that. However come to think of it the seller did mention that often it would work if he left it switched on for a while... What would that indicate?

Caps or solder joint crack. When the unit warms the thermal expansion eventually makes a connection where the crack is.