Nintendo 64 RGB Blur fixing

[FBX]

Having watched and read a few UltraHDMI reviews repeatedly (Phonedork, MLIG, retroRGB, videogameperfection) as well as perusing the UltraHDMI website, it's a little confusing how "Integer+" behaves differently from other modes.

I get the scaling (Integer> 2x/720p, Integer+> 3x/720p), which means in Integer+ the vertical pixels don't really align to an even multiple (but an odd multiple) of the display's vertical resolution. So it's understandable why scanlines wouldn't be consistent.

But your captures of the "blurry" scaling doesn't seem consistent with my understanding of the behavior (Integer+ should have vertical alignment issues for scanlines, but the horizontal still sounds like a clean 3x scale).

EDIT: replace 3x scaling with 5x for the 1080p Integer+ mode).

Edit:

I think the problem is Doom 64 must not technically be a 240p game. Since it has pre-sharpened pixels, it likely uses some sort of internal double scale that then technically makes it a hi-res game even though it appears low res visually speaking. So it ends up with artifacts like a high-res game would in Integer+ mode. That's the best I can figure anyway what's going on.

[CaveManGamer]

Not sure if this has been discussed earlier, but I've recently had my N64 modded with Tim's board and Borti's deblur. I was playing around with it the other day and thought I'd try out my GS to remove AA blur. The dithering was AWFUL, but I realized that I could no longer toggle 15 bit colour mode on and off. I've now tried it on over 10 games and the results are always the same. Any ideas?
Just thought it odd that this feature is disabled when using a GS.

That is strange. I don't see how using a GameShark could disable something so specific like that in borti's firmware.

The general consensus is that the removing the hardware-based blur (UltraHDMI, borti's firmware, etc.) on the Nintendo 64 works wonders and is far better than leaving it on.

On the other hand, removing the software-based blur in games (using GameShark) is pretty bad because it introduces a lot of visual quirks and heavy aliasing like you mentioned in your post.

My Life in Gaming has a very cohesive and thorough video on both types of blur removal and video comparisons between all four possible outputs: (normal, primary disabled, secondary disabled, primary + secondary disabled) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QDiHgKil8AQ

It's a very comprehensive video and one that first got me interested in correcting the N64 blur. However, the episode was filmed prior to the release of Borti's firmware so there's a crucial element missing. I'm not sure if this issue is specific to my setup, or if the Game Sharks AA hack sets 15 bit colour mode as default. It is interesting and I would like to hear if anyone else is experiencing this.

[that1crzywhtguy]

Having a bit of a problem with the deblur aspect of Tim's n64RGB.
The mod seems to be functioning, but imperfectly. I wired a switch from pads A and G for the deblur, and whenever I switch the deblur function on, I get interference that appears almost like static on the screen, as well as everything getting really blurry (the opposite of the intended effect seems to occur). Also, there appears to be a little interference even when the deblur is switched off....

Here is a video of the blurriness when the deblur effect is switched on.
https://youtu.be/altELaJh8UE

Here is a video of the interference with the deblur switched off.
https://youtu.be/u46nq-MZZgs


Any ideas?

[CaveManGamer]

I'm having a hard time seeing what you're describing. What are you using to connect to your display (I.e., framemeister). Where did you purchase your SCART cable? Are you using CSYNC? Are you using a switch box? More information would be helpful.

[that1crzywhtguy]

I'm having a hard time seeing what you're describing. What are you using to connect to your display (I.e., framemeister). Where did you purchase your SCART cable? Are you using CSYNC? Are you using a switch box? More information would be helpful.

Dangit, you're totally right. Sorry I didn't give better details.

My n64 is going into my PVM through a SNES scart cable from retrogamingcables. I am using pure c-sync, and no switch. It is plugged into my scart-PVM adapter also from retrogamingcables. This same setup wroks beautifully with my SNES jr.

In the first video I linked, you can see a pretty solid interference free image, till you hear the click of the switch. Then the whole image gets shaky and blurry. I flip it back and forth a couple times in the video (listen for the click).

In the second video I linked, you can see see the blur to a lesser degree, but more importantly if you look just under the word "Connect" on the left side of screen you can see little colorful static in the black area.


Hope this helps make things clearer. Thanks in advance!

[CaveManGamer]

PVMs are definitely not my specialty, but there are a ton of people of here who could give you better advice as to why your PVM is experiencing this issue. I would recommend doing some experiments. Check out the composite video or S-video signal if you have the right cables. Try toggling the debur/15 on/off using the key combination (deblur- d-pad right + L + R + Right C, 15 bit colour - d-pad left + L + R + Left C) rather than using a switch. Also, if you know someone with a framemeister (even a generic scaler) you could test the video signal that way. I just find it odd that a PVM would experience this issue on a N64 and not on an SNES - PVMs are usually a bit more forgiving. The next step would be to look at the mod itself.
Hope this helps, sorry I couldn't be more helpful.

[that1crzywhtguy]

PVMs are definitely not my specialty, but there are a ton of people of here who could give you better advice as to why your PVM is experiencing this issue. I would recommend doing some experiments. Check out the composite video or S-video signal if you have the right cables. Try toggling the debur/15 on/off using the key combination (deblur- d-pad right + L + R + Right C, 15 bit colour - d-pad left + L + R + Left C) rather than using a switch. Also, if you know someone with a framemeister (even a generic scaler) you could test the video signal that way. I just find it odd that a PVM would experience this issue on a N64 and not on an SNES - PVMs are usually a bit more forgiving. The next step would be to look at the mod itself.
Hope this helps, sorry I couldn't be more helpful.

I highly doubt my PVM is the issue, considering that my SNES, NESRGB, Genesis, Sega Saturn, Playstation, and Mame setup all work perfectly. That leaves me thinking this is clearly an issue with the mod, not my PVM. Also, my n64 hooked up through s-video still works just fine.

I attempted that key combination, but it doesn't seem to do anything for me... I hadn't read about a key combination for the this mod, Tim's guide instructs to wire in a switch.

I do not have access to a framemeister or other scaler, but because all my other consoles (even one with this same cable) work great, I'm not sure I see the reason to test with a scaler. All the evidence points to something odd with this mod or this console.

[CaveManGamer]

Strange! you are right. Tims site says to use a switch, but on my setup I use a key combo to switch back and forth - guess it's at the discretion of the modder. I also think you're right about your PVM - i hate to admit it, but everything seems to point to the mod.

[that1crzywhtguy]

Strange! you are right. Tims site says to use a switch, but on my setup I use a key combo to switch back and forth - guess it's at the discretion of the modder. I also think you're right about your PVM - i hate to admit it, but everything seems to point to the mod.

The change might be in the fact that I got the latest revision released just a month ago. I don't think previous iterations had those pads.

[Nintendude94]

Just ordered a board from Tim's website. I've been reading up and researching the installation, but there are a couple of things I'm still fuzzy about.

I plan on hooking the N64 to a PVM using a SCART cable. I already have a euroscart (NTSC) c-snyc SNES cable that I plan to use. I'd also like to preserve the composite video, if possible. So...

#1) When wiring the sync should I be using the CS75 or CS# pads on the PCB? Does it matter? I'm generally confused on how the sync is wired for this mod.

#2) On the shop page it says that the board will have the deblur firmware already on it. Is this the same as Borti's firmware? I would like to use the controller-button combination to turn blur on/off. Or does Tim's firmware have the button combination too?

Thanks!

[vol.2]

http://etim.net.au/n64rgb/

If you read here, you can either default to on or off, or you can put a switch in to turn it on and off. It's bortis firmware, so it says. Not sure about the key combo switching.

[bobrocks95]

Huh, didn't know Tim was shipping with Borti's firmware now. That flew under the radar. A physical switch is good enough for me.

[Nintendude94]

So I should just be able to follow these instructions for the deblur from earlier in the thread?

For de-blur/15-bit mode (D-Pad Right + L + R + C Right and D-Pad Left + L + R + C Left, respectively) solder pad A (or CPLD pin 100 on older boards) to pin 16 of the PIF-NUS or middle pin on controller port.
-For controller resetting (A + B + D-Pad Down + D-Pad Right + L + R) solder pad M (pin 1) to pin 27 of the PIF-NUS.

If so, all I need to figure out is the sync.

[Shoryukev]

I didn't know Tim was shipping them with the deblur feature added either. Looks like it's time to get my N64 RGB modded!

[vol.2]

So it seems. I still don't know the answer to the switch by key press question BTW. ie has it been removed from the firmware. Sorry.

[leonk]

So it seems. I still don't know the answer to the switch by key press question BTW. ie has it been removed from the firmware. Sorry.

It's a light bersion of borti's firmware. Hust deblur. If you want full igr and ability to change via player 1 joystick, still need to flash another firmware and add 2 wires.

[andykara2003]

Does Borti's firmware default to deblur on when the console is switched on or can you set it to default off?

[vol.2]

Does Borti's firmware default to deblur on when the console is switched on or can you set it to default off?

Edited for clarification:
the firmware (borti's) that comes shipped with tim's board, is set to off out of the box, but you can force it on with a solder pad. it's all described in tim's release notes page i linked above. borti's other firmware was defaulting off at some point, but he mentioned earlier in this topic that he was going to change that because of apparent public sentiment. not sure what happened with that though.

[vol.2]

So it seems. I still don't know the answer to the switch by key press question BTW. ie has it been removed from the firmware. Sorry.

It's a light bersion of borti's firmware. Hust deblur. If you want full igr and ability to change via player 1 joystick, still need to flash another firmware and add 2 wires.

thanks

[borti4938]

Does Borti's firmware default to deblur on when the console is switched on or can you set it to default off?

The default is on and set on every power cycle and every reset (either button or controller combination). There are not enough LEs left inside the EPM240 to store it. Default off can be set using an alternative firmware build if you want to.

[andykara2003]

Cheers for that :)

[Nintendude94]

Alright. That clears up my deblur question. I'll probably just use a switch. Already ordered a USB blaster in case I feel like flashing the board later on.

[holaplaneta]

Sorry for the noob question, but would this switch work for the mod?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008D ... UTF8&psc=1

Thanks!

[that1crzywhtguy]

Has anybody installed the latest version and got it all working deblur with switch included? Still haven't solved my issue...

[andykara2003]

I would have thought it's unlikely that the mod's the problem - Tim must have tested all this thoroughly as he went through the process of adjusting Borti's firmware.

I have PAL and NTSC N64s that are being modded right now by a guy with a very good reputation. I only just bought the boards so they're the latest version (1.2) with Tim's new deblur firmware. The job's almost done so I'll let you know as soon as I see the results..

[that1crzywhtguy]

I would have thought it's unlikely that the mod's the problem - Tim must have tested all this thoroughly as he went through the process of adjusting Borti's firmware.

I have PAL and NTSC N64s that are being modded right now by a guy with a very good reputation. I only just bought the boards so they're the latest version (1.2) with Tim's new deblur firmware. The job's almost done so I'll let you know as soon as I see the results..

Great, that would be awesome.

Unless I have an odd n64 that has some latent issue, I can't see what I could have missed. I quadruple checked everything and my solder points are all clean.

[vol.2]

I would have thought it's unlikely that the mod's the problem - Tim must have tested all this thoroughly as he went through the process of adjusting Borti's firmware.

I have PAL and NTSC N64s that are being modded right now by a guy with a very good reputation. I only just bought the boards so they're the latest version (1.2) with Tim's new deblur firmware. The job's almost done so I'll let you know as soon as I see the results..

Great, that would be awesome.

Unless I have an odd n64 that has some latent issue, I can't see what I could have missed. I quadruple checked everything and my solder points are all clean.

just a thought. perhaps the switch is somewhat faulty? could be creating some weird resistance or perhaps the routing of the wires is generating emi or something.

do you have a datasheet for the switch?

it would be easy enough to eliminate if you just jumped the pads.

[CaveManGamer]

I would have thought it's unlikely that the mod's the problem - Tim must have tested all this thoroughly as he went through the process of adjusting Borti's firmware.

I have PAL and NTSC N64s that are being modded right now by a guy with a very good reputation. I only just bought the boards so they're the latest version (1.2) with Tim's new deblur firmware. The job's almost done so I'll let you know as soon as I see the results..

Great, that would be awesome.

Unless I have an odd n64 that has some latent issue, I can't see what I could have missed. I quadruple checked everything and my solder points are all clean.

just a thought. perhaps the switch is somewhat faulty? could be creating some weird resistance or perhaps the routing of the wires is generating emi or something.

do you have a datasheet for the switch?

it would be easy enough to eliminate if you just jumped the pads.

That's what I was thinking after it was mentioned that all systems are working on the PVM except for the N64. Ihaven't heard of this issue happening since the "switch" has been added. Possibly the switch is causing some interference. I have my deblur on/off using a key combo and have no issues.

[that1crzywhtguy]

I would have thought it's unlikely that the mod's the problem - Tim must have tested all this thoroughly as he went through the process of adjusting Borti's firmware.

I have PAL and NTSC N64s that are being modded right now by a guy with a very good reputation. I only just bought the boards so they're the latest version (1.2) with Tim's new deblur firmware. The job's almost done so I'll let you know as soon as I see the results..

Great, that would be awesome.

Unless I have an odd n64 that has some latent issue, I can't see what I could have missed. I quadruple checked everything and my solder points are all clean.

just a thought. perhaps the switch is somewhat faulty? could be creating some weird resistance or perhaps the routing of the wires is generating emi or something.

do you have a datasheet for the switch?

it would be easy enough to eliminate if you just jumped the pads.

That is a good idea, unfortunately I already tried that. Currently it is jumped and the problem persists.

[Ikaruga11]

So Tim's newest RGB board comes with borti's de-blur and 15-bit firmware set to 'on' by default?