Questions that do not deserve a thread

[Cirventhor]

Couple of questions about the Dreamcast.

1. As I'm living in Norway, I'm looking to pick up a PAL console. As long as I use VGA-output, the old 50/60hz problem shouldn't be applicable, right? VGA would be 60hz regardless of platform? Any noticeable downsides to using a PAL console otherwise?

2. Are there any revisions of the Dreamcast that are superior to others (similar to 1-chip SNES etc)?

3. As far as I understand, using a TORO VGA box is the best way to go when hooking the console up to a modern 4K TV, but what would be the best way of connecting the TORO to the TV? My TV has no VGA inputs, so I would need some sort of transcoder I'd imagine. Perhaps waiting for the OSSC to be available again would be the best here.

Thanks.

[Fudoh]

1. yes, that's right.
2. the earlier models had a better fan (as in less noisy).
3. there's the upcoming Akura which offers HDMI. It's certainly the easiest way. Quality will be on par with a direct VGA connection to a TV with a VGA input. Using a VGA box into the OSSC is slightly better though, since it's optimized for the DC's weird video timings, while a native VGA port on a TV (or the Akura) isn't.

[Woozle]

@bobrocks (audio buzzing)

I tested it out and still got audio buzzing with the SNES to Bnc coax cables. I had to turn my tv audio to max to hear it. Used the 240p test suite to display a white screen for the test.

[philexile]

Has anyone ever tried replacing the power supply with one of those micro PSUs? I think they are called Pico.

[bobrocks95]

@bobrocks (audio buzzing)

I tested it out and still got audio buzzing with the SNES to Bnc coax cables. I had to turn my tv audio to max to hear it. Used the 240p test suite to display a white screen for the test.

Did you notice worse buzzing with the non-coax cables, or about the same? I get buzzing on white screens at about 1/6 max volume.

[Fudoh]

Has anyone ever tried replacing the power supply with one of those micro PSUs? I think they are called Pico.

these are fine if your power requirements are a match (up to 120W on the stronger ones). These are basically the same tech as use on systems like a NUC. (Usually) you have your 12V external PSU and a matching jack on the PC. Years back I had a 80W version installed in a small micro ATX case.

I just don't see what you want to replace. Either you got a case big enough or a ATX or FlexATX PSU or not and if not there isn't a PSU which could replace in the first place.

[QXC]

I could have sworn I've asked this before, but what kinda stick do you guys prefer for shmups/general not fighting games? I'm thinking of building a stick soon and might go for a LS 56 with an oct gate? I played some various games on a JLF recently and it's just waaaaaaaaaaay too loose for me. Not just for shmups but for anything really. Metal Slug was a pain...

I know a lot of it seems to be preference, so if a lot of people prefer using a JLF for most things just because they've gotten used to it, I guess it stands to reason that I could get used to a very tight stick in the same fashion?

[Shoryukev]

I could have sworn I've asked this before, but what kinda stick do you guys prefer for shmups/general not fighting games? I'm thinking of building a stick soon and might go for a LS 56 with an oct gate? I played some various games on a JLF recently and it's just waaaaaaaaaaay too loose for me. Not just for shmups but for anything really. Metal Slug was a pain...

I know a lot of it seems to be preference, so if a lot of people prefer using a JLF for most things just because they've gotten used to it, I guess it stands to reason that I could get used to a very tight stick in the same fashion?

Growing up with mostly bat-top happ sticks in the arcades as a kid, when I first got a fightstick I was thrown off by the JLF too. I eventually got used to it and now really like it, but there was a learning curve. I use a JLF for most games now with an octagon gate, switching back to the square gate for fighters or games that require a 4-way stick (rotated for no diagonals). My main control panel is made out of thick plywood and I had to router out sections of the backside for an "S plate" for my sticks, so I'm kinda stuck with JLFs or I'd be looking into alternatives too. The Seimitsu stuff gets lots of praise.

There are plenty of mods available for the JLF that might make it more to your liking (heavier spring, different sized actuators, etc.), but if you don't like it going with something else is probably the way to go. Personal preference is a big part of it, so there's really no wrong answer IMO. If anything I'd probably think that most people wouldn't choose the JLF as their favorite for shmups.

[Woozle]

@bobrocks (audio buzzing)

I tested it out and still got audio buzzing with the SNES to Bnc coax cables. I had to turn my tv audio to max to hear it. Used the 240p test suite to display a white screen for the test.

Did you notice worse buzzing with the non-coax cables, or about the same? I get buzzing on white screens at about 1/6 max volume.

It's the same, no buzzing until I get to about 80/100 volume. Normal listening volume is 10-15.

Question of my own, can I stack PVMs or is that generally a bad idea? https://imgur.com/a/BQhJc

Question 2. Has the framemeister noise source ever been determined? Can a small video filter pcb be added in the unit to improve things? I heard something about it being due to the color space conversion coefficients being incorrect, I would think if that's the case then it would've been patched.

[QXC]

Growing up with mostly bat-top happ sticks in the arcades as a kid, when I first got a fightstick I was thrown off by the JLF too. I eventually got used to it and now really like it, but there was a learning curve. I use a JLF for most games now with an octagon gate, switching back to the square gate for fighters or games that require a 4-way stick (rotated for no diagonals). My main control panel is made out of thick plywood and I had to router out sections of the backside for an "S plate" for my sticks, so I'm kinda stuck with JLFs or I'd be looking into alternatives too. The Seimitsu stuff gets lots of praise.

There are plenty of mods available for the JLF that might make it more to your liking (heavier spring, different sized actuators, etc.), but if you don't like it going with something else is probably the way to go. Personal preference is a big part of it, so there's really no wrong answer IMO. If anything I'd probably think that most people wouldn't choose the JLF as their favorite for shmups.

What's the big attraction for the JLF? Shorter engages seem like the way to go, habit notwithstanding. I guess you can mod a JLF to do whatever you want now but why would you do that over just buying an LS40/56 or something like that? Build quality on the JLF might be a tidge better perhaps? I mean I don't understand why people want a square gate for fighters so much, seems like diagonals would be just as easy to hit on an oct/circle gate? Probably don't understand because I don't play fighting games.

Just trying to get this to all fit in my head. Feels like I'm missing something.

[bobrocks95]

@bobrocks (audio buzzing)

I tested it out and still got audio buzzing with the SNES to Bnc coax cables. I had to turn my tv audio to max to hear it. Used the 240p test suite to display a white screen for the test.

Did you notice worse buzzing with the non-coax cables, or about the same? I get buzzing on white screens at about 1/6 max volume.

It's the same, no buzzing until I get to about 80/100 volume. Normal listening volume is 10-15.

I'll test my setup more to rule out the possibility of it being my jerry-rigged Pheonix to RCA cable causing it. Thanks for testing.

[Guspaz]

Question of my own, can I stack PVMs or is that generally a bad idea? https://imgur.com/a/BQhJc

Professional monitors are specifically designed to be stacked, it's one of the reasons why they're perfectly square and made of metal. I don't know how high you're supposed to be able to stack them.

[Shoryukev]

What's the big attraction for the JLF? Shorter engages seem like the way to go, habit notwithstanding. I guess you can mod a JLF to do whatever you want now but why would you do that over just buying an LS40/56 or something like that? Build quality on the JLF might be a tidge better perhaps? I mean I don't understand why people want a square gate for fighters so much, seems like diagonals would be just as easy to hit on an oct/circle gate? Probably don't understand because I don't play fighting games.

Just trying to get this to all fit in my head. Feels like I'm missing something.

The JLF is just really popular for fighters. People like the freedom of movement the square gate has. When doing a lot of moves on the joystick like QCF (1/4 circle forward, like when doing a hadoken for example) typically you aren't riding the gate like you would with a circle or octagon gate. It does however lock or "get stuck" in the diagonals for things like downward blocking, jumping diagonally, or charge characters, so in those cases you would ride the gate....2D fighters are just kinda weird like that.

For shmups and most general arcade games I personally can't stand a square gate, so if you don't play fighters there are better choices. Sanwa is popular, but I don't think it's of a better quality than some other choices....it's just different. It's all fairly subjective

[QXC]

The JLF is just really popular for fighters. People like the freedom of movement the square gate has. When doing a lot of moves on the joystick like QCF (1/4 circle forward, like when doing a hadoken for example) typically you aren't riding the gate like you would with a circle or octagon gate. It does however lock or "get stuck" in the diagonals for things like downward blocking, jumping diagonally, or charge characters, so in those cases you would ride the gate....2D fighters are just kinda weird like that.

For shmups and most general arcade games I personally can't stand a square gate, so if you don't play fighters there are better choices. Sanwa is popular, but I don't think it's of a better quality than some other choices....it's just different. It's all fairly subjective

I guess I'm just assuming that riding the gate is going to be the easiest option more often than not, moreso if the gates are closer to center. Guess it'll be interesting if I ever decide to try and learn fighting games and insist on riding the gate all the time.

EDIT: Ah, I should have actually read slagcoin earlier. I kinda get what they mean about diagonals being harder to engage... I still think I'll try an oct gate for the time being.

[Chomolonzo]

Okay, so I have a PAL GameCube with the digital out port and, by some stroke of fate, two sets of GameCube component cables. Now, would I be better off using the component cables running into a BVM, or would SCART provide a clearer image, or do they both just fart out 480i?

[bobrocks95]

Okay, so I have a PAL GameCube with the digital out port and, by some stroke of fate, two sets of GameCube component cables. Now, would I be better off using the component cables running into a BVM, or would SCART provide a clearer image, or do they both just fart out 480i?

Component is the only way to get 480p, but if you only plan to use it on your BVM and it isn't multisync that's of course not a big issue. Internal colorspace for the Gamecube is YCbCr so component has a chance to look slightly better, but you shouldn't be able to tell the difference.

[Chomolonzo]

Okay, so I have a PAL GameCube with the digital out port and, by some stroke of fate, two sets of GameCube component cables. Now, would I be better off using the component cables running into a BVM, or would SCART provide a clearer image, or do they both just fart out 480i?

Component is the only way to get 480p, but if you only plan to use it on your BVM and it isn't multisync that's of course not a big issue. Internal colorspace for the Gamecube is YCbCr so component has a chance to look slightly better, but you shouldn't be able to tell the difference.

The only reason I ask is because PAL GameCube is incapable of displaying 480p - it only does 480i. I was wondering if using RGB over SCART forced it to use 240p or something like that so you can avoid the interlace judders.

[ZellSF]

Okay, so I have a PAL GameCube with the digital out port and, by some stroke of fate, two sets of GameCube component cables. Now, would I be better off using the component cables running into a BVM, or would SCART provide a clearer image, or do they both just fart out 480i?

Component is the only way to get 480p, but if you only plan to use it on your BVM and it isn't multisync that's of course not a big issue. Internal colorspace for the Gamecube is YCbCr so component has a chance to look slightly better, but you shouldn't be able to tell the difference.

The only reason I ask is because PAL GameCube is incapable of displaying 480p - it only does 480i. I was wondering if using RGB over SCART forced it to use 240p or something like that so you can avoid the interlace judders.

PAL Gamecubes can output 480p just fine. It's PAL Gamecube games that don't have 480p modes.

And no using RGB SCART does not force 240p, not sure what would even make you think that. Or why you think the same wouldn't be true for component.

[Mantis128]

Can anyone recommend some good 480i PVM's with S-video and a decent to good line count?

[Einzelherz]

Umm, all of them? I suppose some of the 80s models don't have s-video, though. IIRC every pvm has a better-than-consumer line count.

[Stevens]

Joystick stuff - It's all fairly subjective

This. I grew up with standard American arcade parts too. When I first tried a square gate I hated it, but then I picked up charge characters. Within a few weeks I learned to love it.

First stick I bought was a HRAP modded with Sanwa parts and a JLF. I liked it well enough, but had nothing to compare it to.

Then I picked up a HRAP SE (this was before I fell in love with shmups) and discovered I dug Seimitsu parts more. I preferred the tighter spring of the LS 52 and slightly less sensitive buttons.

Most recently I bought an LS 56, which is similar to the 52 but feels a bit tighter.

As SRKev said it is subjective and comes down to preference. My go to stick has an LS 56 with a square gate. I use it for everything from shooters to fighters.

[chuckster]

I have a component cable a lot like this one:



It's just a cheapo cable without any branding. It supports 360, PS1/2/3, and original Xbox, with a switch for TV/HDTV (which doesn't seem to do much). I usually use it with the latter and my Xbox.

Anyway, I got a PS2 the other day and decided to use this to hook it up to my PVM. It wouldn't work. I made sure the monitor was on component, tried all different configurations of the red, green, and blue wires, but still nothing. The most I got was a horrible purple jitter all over the screen. I had seen sync issues before, so on a hunch, I used the yellow cable there and plugged it into the Ext. Sync input, turning it on. The image was now a stable purple-tint game screen. I set the monitor to RGB, and its clear as a bell. Been enjoying Dark Cloud and Spyro for PS1 for almost a week now.

This just seems really weird to me though, as the cable works fine as a component cable for my Xbox. Is this a sync-on composite RGB cable rolled into a fully functioning component cable? Has anyone else seen this sort of thing?

[MetalMilitia]

Do you have a picture of where your cables are plugged in? You should have Green plugged into Y, Blue plugged into Pb, and Red plugged into Pr. Make sure your external sync is turned off. If it isn't the screen will roll and flicker. Also, make sure you have the YPbPr colorspace selected, or else you won't get the correct color output.

[chuckster]

http://imgur.com/a/ZLwRM

That's how it is set up at the moment, and the PS2 output with Spyro 1.

I usually do use green on the first input, as I normally play my Wii on component on the same PVM (1953Q). If I do this though, setting the color to YPbPr and with no sync, I get the rolling purple mess. I recognized this as a sync issue, which in my (low) experience, is only associated with RGB. So I figured why not and just slapped that yellow cable there into the sync input. This was better. With the color space set to component on the PVM, I get a purple image, though it is stable. A quick flick to RGB and it's fine.

EDIT: In this shot, the cables pictured are actually male-male cables going to a switch, which the Wii and the PS2 are both hooked up to. This is the same input I use when connecting the PS2 directly, though. To switch to the Wii, I leave the PVM side as-is, but must switch to component and turn off Ext. Sync to play the Wii, as it should be with component in my experience.

[bobrocks95]

http://imgur.com/a/ZLwRM

That's how it is set up at the moment, and the PS2 output with Spyro 1.

I usually do use green on the first input, as I normally play my Wii on component on the same PVM (1953Q). If I do this though, setting the color to YPbPr and with no sync, I get the rolling purple mess. I recognized this as a sync issue, which in my (low) experience, is only associated with RGB. So I figured why not and just slapped that yellow cable there into the sync input. This was better. With the color space set to component on the PVM, I get a purple image, though it is stable. A quick flick to RGB and it's fine.

EDIT: In this shot, the cables pictured are actually male-male cables going to a switch, which the Wii and the PS2 are both hooked up to. This is the same input I use when connecting the PS2 directly, though. To switch to the Wii, I leave the PVM side as-is, but must switch to component and turn off Ext. Sync to play the Wii, as it should be with component in my experience.

Make sure your monitor is set to component input, and boot into your PS2 settings and make sure it's set to component output- I'm guessing it's set to RGB.

[MetalMilitia]

Also, it sounds like you have your Wii set to 480p output. Most PVMs cannot display 480p, and you need to set your output to 480i. Try changing this and you should see a normal picture.

[Chomolonzo]

PAL Gamecubes can output 480p just fine. It's PAL Gamecube games that don't have 480p modes.

And no using RGB SCART does not force 240p, not sure what would even make you think that. Or why you think the same wouldn't be true for component.

Yikes easy champ, I was just asking; I didn't kick your dog.

[chuckster]

Oh, I'm not saying there was any issue with either. My Wii is set to 480i and works perfectly with the component cables. The PS2 works with component cables too, but requires that extra yellow cable on the Ext. Sync and the PVM set to RGB in order to work.

You guys were right though, it was the PS2 set to RGB, setting it back to YPbPr eliminated the need for Ext. Sync and RGB. But I guess what I'm saying is if you have a PVM and a component cable including a separate composite cable, it will work with RGB with the composite on the Ext. Sync input. Or at least this one did in this case.

[telemetry]

You guys were right though, it was the PS2 set to RGB, setting it back to YPbPr eliminated the need for Ext. Sync and RGB. But I guess what I'm saying is if you have a PVM and a component cable including a separate composite cable, it will work with RGB with the composite on the Ext. Sync input. Or at least this one did in this case.

This is fascinating to me. This would imply that you can get RGB out of a PS2 with any of these third-party Component+Composite cables by using the composite video for external sync; didn't think of this before.

Just interesting since it seems known that PS2 component is slightly noisy compared to RGB. I don't have an extra pair of PS2 RGB cables, but I do have one of these third parties.

[accaris]

New to the NES RGB mod... with the SNES multi-out method, do I want to get the SNES SCART cable with CSync from someone like Retro Gaming Cables UK? Is that the right cable to use with the NES mod?