Extron RGB interface on a PMV 2030

[vol.2]

I'm trying to get the ability to center my image on my PVM 2030 through the RGB input.

The 2030 is an older unit with a CMPTR input that has a DB25 connector. My first attempt is a PS2 via scart to a sync strike and then to the Extron via the DE15 connector (VGA). Then, I go via BNC to the DB25 input on the back of the 2030. I built a custom cable for this purpose. What I did to build the cable is take red, green, blue and composite sync from the BNC, and then I took all the grounds and went to the various ground pins on the DB25. I wasn't sure if I had to, so I split the ground out and populated all 10 available ground pin at the 2030.

When I finally turned it all on, it had a tearing at the top of the screen, and I cannot figure out how to make it go away. I have tried RGsB, and that showed no change. I switched the polarity of the sync inside the Extron, and that also had no change. I used an external PSU for my sync strike, again no change.
Perhaps it will not work. If so, are there alternative methods to get centering on my PVM 2030?

If someone has an idea to get this working, I am all ears. Or some new method for me to try, maybe a different device from extron?

[daskrabs]

If all you're trying to do is adjust the horizontal or vertical position of the screen, you need to remove the entire back of the case and find the board with the pots for the geometry. One of them will be H-POS, and other V-POS. No need for Extron.

[vol.2]

Yes, I've done this already. For the PVM 2030 it's V CENT and H CENT. The problem is that each input (composite, s video, and RGB) all have different centers. If I adjust for composite, RGB is out of center, and vice versa. I have searched for a way to alter the centers separately inside the TV, but I cannot find any pots to adjust, for example, just the RGB. There is an H Position for digital RGB, but that means CGA and has no effect on an analog signal. Perhaps there is some way to do it, but I can't find it by myself, and I can't find the service manual. There is one manual for a European model, the 2130, but it doesn't have the same RGB input and the guts are actually different.

[kamiboy]

The best solution is to upgrade all your systems to RGB, or just find a middle point that satisfies all inputs and try not to be so OCD about achieving perfect geometry.

Then again, I think I may be in the minority here for not even bothering to adjust H/V centering or size on my various CRTs.

[vol.2]

I am thinking the RGB route is looking pretty clear, but it'll take time that I don't have in one place. I was hoping to have a backup for all things I can't RGB mod.

A middle point is not really viable as when I try to put it in the middle, it cuts off menus and stuff. It's like 3/4" off is either direction horizontally. That's why I think there must be an additional adjustment for the RGB H circuit somewhere. I just can't find a manual.

Edit: and the geometry is fine, that's not an issue, just the huge difference in centers.

[kamiboy]

Strange that it would be so off. I do not remember that problem with my 2530. I used both S-video and RGB.

[vol.2]

Yeah... This is the only one I've ever had. Maybe it's got an issue somewhere, but if so, this is the only real indication of it. The image looks pretty damn stellar outside of some very minor convergence issues around the edges.

If only I had a manual, I could figure out more without tearing it apart. I highly suspect that there is some circuit which controls the RGB HCENT.

[buttersoft]

H-freq pot? I had a PVM that used to tear a little at the top. Fine adjustment of the v-hold pot worked. Yours has both V-hold on the back dials, and H-freq inside, as we've talked about. After that, how are you combining the sync when not using the extron? Or is it H+V not C-Sync?

After that, well different systmes had different centers. The extron isn't a bad way to go for adjusting that.

And FYI i don't think CGA is TTL/digital RGB...?

[kamiboy]

My 2530 was C-Sync, so the 2930 is prolly as well. They can also do Sync on Green I believe.

[vol.2]

Yes, the PVM 2030 is either csync or sync on green. I'm using my PS2 with Sync on luma for the csync pin.

I had the back off and tried messing around with the "H FRE" pot actually, but it didn't seem to make a difference. I'm still not sure that it is a FREQ pot because it literally just shifts the image like the H CENT pot does. I think it may just offer extra adjustment. In any case, it doesn't change the tearing or anything about the geometry. The V hold also seems like a dead end.

More information is that it also seems to flicker a bit when it's display 480i. More than it should for sure.

Also, the Extron works when on DDSP. But that removes the HV controls, so defeats the purpose.

[orange808]

Yes, the PVM 2030 is either csync or sync on green. I'm using my PS2 with Sync on luma for the csync pin.

I had the back off and tried messing around with the "H FRE" pot actually, but it didn't seem to make a difference. I'm still not sure that it is a FREQ pot because it literally just shifts the image like the H CENT pot does. I think it may just offer extra adjustment. In any case, it doesn't change the tearing or anything about the geometry. The V hold also seems like a dead end.

More information is that it also seems to flicker a bit when it's display 480i. More than it should for sure.

Also, the Extron works when on DDSP. But that removes the HV controls, so defeats the purpose.

Could you chain another Extron RGB?

[vol.2]

I was considering it, but I was going to ask first if it would make a difference.
Like put the first one on ADSP to do the adjustment and then throw another one in front of it to "normalize" the signal.
I got to the point that of checking for a cheap one and then I just got a little fed up with it. I suppose I'll order one tomorrow and give it a shot.
Anyone have any opinions on my chance of success?